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 He mentioned he ordered another printer, fwiw
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Oct 3, 2021 20:29
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poverty goat posted:Any recommendations? On aliexpress it's like 100 tips for The downside of the cheapest of the cheap is that you're going to be dialing in for every single hosed up one, just spend less than $10 on one decent nozzle. https://www.matterhackers.com/store/l/e3d-v6-extra-nozzle-175mm/sk/MW3RSLMG You rarely have to replace nozzles unless you're using something abrasive, in which case get a tool steel nozzle. ImplicitAssembler posted:So, after complaining about things going pearshaped after buying the cheapest of the cheap, you're going to double down?. Exactly.
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Oct 3, 2021 20:30
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so I was thinking about ordering a bunch of .4 and an assortment of misc unless that's a terrible idea for some reason
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Oh don't get me wrong, I ordered some good ones from the manufacturer. But I grabbed a bunch of cheap ones for spares too to see
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Oct 3, 2021 21:05
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Some day I might need to buy a replacement Nozzle X. Some day...
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Oct 3, 2021 21:21
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NewFatMike posted:You rarely have to replace nozzles unless you're using something abrasive, in which case get a tool steel nozzle. Zorro KingOfEngland posted:Some day I might need to buy a replacement Nozzle X. People have told me to just treat them as disposable when they clog, because clearing clogs will scratch and degrade them anyway, and I figure I have some clogs in my future. In any case, by the time I get the chineseum nozzles I'll have a few weeks' experience with the good ones and I'll be able to evaluate the difference, if any, myself.
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Oct 3, 2021 21:44
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poverty goat posted:Oh don't get me wrong, I ordered some good ones from the manufacturer. But I grabbed a bunch of cheap ones for spares too to see Define 'good ones'? E3D?
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Oct 4, 2021 00:00
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Quick question, I am planning on doing some prints with my ender 3v2 with some glow in the dark rainbow filament. Should I invest in more brass nozzles or upgrade my nozzle in advance for the abrasive nature of the filament? Any suggestions on what type to use? EDIT: Was considering these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089ZY11D...2dDbGljaz10cnVl GotDonuts fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 00:17
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Yeah I don’t know about nozzles that are *that* cheap lmao, I’ve been getting 24-30 for around 8 bucks on Amazon and that’s as cheap as I’d go.
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Oct 4, 2021 01:05
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GotDonuts posted:Quick question, I am planning on doing some prints with my ender 3v2 with some glow in the dark rainbow filament. Should I invest in more brass nozzles or upgrade my nozzle in advance for the abrasive nature of the filament? Any suggestions on what type to use? If you're printing abrasive filament, you should not be using brass. The nozzle diameter will not be 0.4mm by the time you're done with a reasonably sized print (ie, the size you'd need in order to show off that fancy rainbow). This will make your print fail if it's severe enough, taking your expensive rainbow glow in the dark filament with it. Hardened steel like the ones you linked is what I'd use for that type of filament. I can't speak for quality of those specific ones however.
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Oct 4, 2021 01:24
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GotDonuts posted:Quick question, I am planning on doing some prints with my ender 3v2 with some glow in the dark rainbow filament. Should I invest in more brass nozzles or upgrade my nozzle in advance for the abrasive nature of the filament? Any suggestions on what type to use? Both options work, but running through a little GITD won't murder a new brass nozzle immediately if you want to experiment before upgrading.
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Oct 4, 2021 01:27
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poverty goat posted:Oh don't get me wrong, I ordered some good ones from the manufacturer. But I grabbed a bunch of cheap ones for spares too to see For what it's worth, I haven't had a nozzle get seriously clogged (like something that a cold pull won't fix) since like 2015. Hell, even clogging at all is extremely rare with regular plastics. Better hotend designs these days mean that the nozzles usually just work. I have had a few brass ones wear their bore into an oval from thousands of hours of printing, and a lot get gross looking while still working fine, and that's it. Buy one good E3D brass nozzle, or spring for a hardened one if you're planning to do abrasive filaments, and just forget about nozzles for the next couple of years. I just can't imagine the situation where anyone would need a 100-pack of nozzles. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 01:38 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 01:35
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I just grabbed a 30 pack for $9 along with my metal extruder and bed/springs and have been retiring them ~monthly (which is definitely overkill); at the current rate I'll have to decide what nozzle to buy after that sometime in the summer of 2023
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Oct 4, 2021 01:38
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Sagebrush posted:I just can't imagine the situation where anyone would need a 100-pack of nozzles. I didn't actually get 100 of them, I got 20 .4s and an assortment of a few of each size for <$10. They're probably the same exact ones Bodanarko is buying but who knows? ImplicitAssembler posted:Define 'good ones'? E3D? The ones the manufacturer sells 5 for $10 in their store where I bought the printer
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Oct 4, 2021 01:58
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I would define those as 'probably not terrible'.
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Oct 4, 2021 01:59
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gotta start somewhere
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Oct 4, 2021 02:01
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Guest2553 posted:I'm going to be alone for two weeks with my ADD kid, and about to impulse purchase an FDM printer to make it more manageable. Neptune 2 and Mega zero 2 are the ones jumping out based on immediate availability for the local equivalent of $250USD. No intention to use it for exotic filaments (yet), just black/gray PLA filament for minecraft stuff and game pieces. All3dp gives the impression that both are good for that type of basic use, but I'd appreciate commentary on how it handles, spares worth having on hand, and quality of life upgrades worth getting from the goon hive mind. Nothing heard but I went with the Mega zero 2. Anycubic's online store has them on sale for $145 though, which seems like a good deal if you're not in a hurry.
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Oct 4, 2021 04:19
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Sagebrush posted:I just can't imagine the situation where anyone would need a 100-pack of nozzles. Maybe a creator fulfilling a kickstarter for their $99 printer design 
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Oct 4, 2021 04:53
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InternetJunky posted:Except for FEP changes every 3 months I don't do any preventative maintenance on my machines. That said, I also have three Mars2 Pros out of commission right now waiting for new screens so maybe I need to adopt some type of general cleaning routine. I'm not sure that would solve anything though as FEP holes are the screen killers and they are pretty much impossible to prevent unless you strain your resin after every print and replace your FEP after each failed print. I guess I've been lucky since I've been running the printer pretty heavily for more than 3 months and there doesn't seem to be any indication right now that the FEP is in imminent need of replacement. I do have a roll of replacement film ready to go just in case. I'm thinking I'm lucky because I haven't really had any failed prints (one, kind of, out of easily 50+ full build plates), so there haven't been any floaters running around in the vat to puncture the FEP. You're probably right that I should start scraping down the whole build plate after each print instead of just relying on dumb luck, though.
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Oct 4, 2021 05:45
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If im sitting here all "Mr No printer" but am looking to get one - is it worth waiting for the Mars 3 to come out? Should be arriving in my country in a couple weeks to the local distributor.
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Oct 4, 2021 08:25
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I saw anycubic was unloading resin printers for dirt cheap on eBay the other day. Think they have done original photon ones left for like 59 bucks. Didn't check out the listing but I was surprised to see it. Might be worth a peek of you are thinking of hopping into the resin part of the hobby.
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Oct 4, 2021 08:42
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Hello Braintrust. I need help. Odor, and potentially chemistry help. Running a resin printer. In a basement. The smell starts.. to get serious. And my buddy with the printer, is concerned for the health of people in the household. There's two questions: First, is about how to manage things. How do you deal with resin printer smells? Are you concerned about them? The thoughts that come to mind are, in order, ventilating the enclosure to the outside. Building a warmed box to run the printer in a garage. Finally, a heavy duty carbon filter in an enclosure inside. In a rather involved conversation Friday, we got into the toxicity of resin. We know that the resin itself, is toxic. But what about the materials that do vaporize from an open bath of resin. What is the component that's evaporating? Is that component toxic? Resin is toxic... Have I missed the rash of long term effects of dealing with resin?
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Oct 4, 2021 08:51
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I saw anycubic was unloading resin printers for dirt cheap on eBay the other day. Think they have done original photon ones left for like 59 bucks. I know nearly nothing about resin printers and this is super tempting as a chance to learn something new.
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Oct 4, 2021 08:53
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I feel like that still amounts to a few hundred bucks, with resin and the rest of the assembly line and other startup costs included, so it's not THAT cheap. Still *pretty* cheap.
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Oct 4, 2021 09:06
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Hamburlgar posted:Yeah... nowhere have I, or anyone else, said the Creality machines are flawless. They’re anything but flawless. But their flaws are easily offset with a few easy to install upgrades, totaling maybe $350 including the machine itself ($250). Are we really here again? GonadTheBallbarian posted:I mean I'm of the mind that yes, you'll always have to tinker, but the hot glue and tinned leads are enough to steer people away. The E3v2 is an incomplete product and that's not what most people sign up to buy when they spend that kind of money on something Hot glue and tinned leads are common in ALL SORTS of devices in your home. poverty goat posted:I'm not afraid of tinkering, I've spent hours on this printer already and I'd be happy to build one completely from a kit if the value was right, but I have to insist that the box includes a full set of working parts Then.. yaknow.. return it.. if it doesn't come with bits. Enders, and I mean all enders, print out of the box. My sample size is reasonable. (about 12?) This puts creality a good step ahead of a lot of the smaller vendors. They ~work~. The biggest problem I have with complaints on 3d printers, is that they aren't ~a printer~. At least, how we think of printers. They're CNC machines. And to our benifit, they come as COMPLETE CNC machines. If you've ever priced out machine tools, you'll find that the vast majority of them come with a hilariously inept set of basic parts, and frequently, are plain ~not functional~ if you buy just the machine. poverty goat posted:You'll never convince me that creality is cool and good for continuing to ship printers with useless warped beds after the problems came to light. If nerds had held them to account like literally any tool or computer supplier would be for shipping defective equipment maybe they'd have had reason to get their poo poo together. Warped beds work. But your logic doesn't work here... And there's a cost to what you're saying. The cost, is ~literal~ cost. The cost for a cast aluminum bed for my ender was $45. The whole printer was $200. Practical terms, this would have made me not get into this end of CNC. The bed alone for my V0 is $30. The bed for my Legacy? $60. If you want "something better" the scale is there. There's printers at the consumer level, for every dollar range from $100 through $2000 or so. Creality is a business. As (especially) Chinese businesses go, they're pretty decent on most levels. poverty goat posted:Sorry to anyone I berated earlier, the printer and I had a bad morning and spooky, inexplicably things were happening with that thing that stopped me from really even testing the extruder I'd just torn down and put back together. I might have been naive getting into this but the plan when I impulse bought the mystery box was always to avail myself of the amazon return policy if I couldn't get anything out of it, and I think it's headed right where it belongs. quote:I learned a lot from my Ender 3 v2 and put that to work ordering an Anycubic i3 Mega S for 199 based on recurring themes in reviews that it works out of the box, doesn't need any extra parts to perform really well and is well supported by the company I'm still not sold on the e3v2. I don't like the screen. And coming with a glass bed was how they deal with people eating the magnetic sheet. If I were them, I'd be shipping it with a garolite bed, instead of glass. But I think the choice of glass is driven by "the community" instead of what's best. *shrugs* The big selling point of it is that it has the silent driver board. Everything else about it.. doesn't make me happier about the machine. That said... I've moved up in the world. You're here late. (to the party, that is) And I'm sorry. What you're going to find, especially anywhere BUT here. Is that the 3d printing community, in general, doesn't know it's rear end from a hole in the ground. I could write a LOT about that. It's really frustrating. I've left most f the groups I've been in about 3d printing because of how entrenched bad advice is. And lovely people are. Voron is an exception to this. As is VoidStarLabs.
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Oct 4, 2021 09:29
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Nerobro posted:Running a resin printer. In a basement. The smell starts.. to get serious. And my buddy with the printer, is concerned for the health of people in the household. It's styrene you can probably smell, and we already know styrene to be bad for long term health. TL;DR if you can smell it, it's giving off something. Even if you can't smell it, it may well be giving off something. I run my resin printers in the garage which I can trivially vent, and we're currently looking at rigging up a resin setup at a hackerspace to run through a similar scrubber vent system as the laser cutters.
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Oct 4, 2021 10:42
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Nerobro posted:Hello Braintrust. RIP your lungs. If you can smell it, it's a problem (and as another poster said, even if you can't smell it there is probably a problem). Resins are toxic as gently caress. Ventilate that poo poo. Nerobro posted:Hot glue and tinned leads are common in ALL SORTS of devices in your home. Oh, word? Name a device with moving parts where those hot glue and tinned leads are routed along said moving parts and attached to heaters at the other end.
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Oct 4, 2021 11:02
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Is there a magic setting that will shut down (or at least disable the fans, including power supply fans) my ender 3 v2 after the print finishes, particularly using prusaslicer. I usually kick off a print around midnight and it wraps up right before my wife needs to use that room
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Oct 4, 2021 11:12
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Hadlock posted:Is there a magic setting that will shut down (or at least disable the fans, including power supply fans) my ender 3 v2 after the print finishes, particularly using prusaslicer. I usually kick off a print around midnight and it wraps up right before my wife needs to use that room Pretty sure the PSU fans are controlled by the PSU, so there won't be any Gcode for that. Also if your wife thinks the PSU fans are loud enough to complain about, you either need to rethink the hobby or the marriage.
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Oct 4, 2021 11:19
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Hadlock posted:Is there a magic setting that will shut down (or at least disable the fans, including power supply fans) my ender 3 v2 after the print finishes, particularly using prusaslicer. I usually kick off a print around midnight and it wraps up right before my wife needs to use that room You can do this with octoprint and a control board, otherwise no, the fans are hardwired.
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Oct 4, 2021 11:25
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snail posted:It's styrene you can probably smell, and we already know styrene to be bad for long term health. quote:TL;DR if you can smell it, it's giving off something. Even if you can't smell it, it may well be giving off something. biracial bear for uncut posted:Oh, word? Name a device with moving parts where those hot glue and tinned leads are routed along said moving parts and attached to heaters at the other end. Hadlock posted:Is there a magic setting that will shut down (or at least disable the fans, including power supply fans) my ender 3 v2 after the print finishes, particularly using prusaslicer. I usually kick off a print around midnight and it wraps up right before my wife needs to use that room Cranky as he might be.... Biracal bear is on the right track. But, you can trick the printer into shutting itself off, with a switch on.. say.. the Z axis that'll flip a power switch at max height. All you'd need to do, is add a line of code that sends the Z up, and boom, it's off. I've seen it done with bed movement too. ----------------------------------- On the subject of "if you can smell it, it's a problem". Well... that's a bit of a trick for me. I can smell PLA, PETG, no matter what. From ~rooms away~. My nose twitches at the end of my driveway when someone is running the dryer with a dryer sheet in it. I'll smell the orange that's just started to go moldy from the front door, when nobody else can smell it. My nose is notoriously sensitive, so "if you can smell it" is rarely a good measure for me. It's nice on some levels, it sucks on others. It means I need to know what an odor is. And I can then know if I can do my best to ignore it, or if it's a danger. Nerobro fucked around with this message at 11:51 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 11:36
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I normally have him on mute after he crack-pinged about two months ago  looking at his post doesn't look like I'm missing out on muchThe 3D printer sits literally directly behind her laptop (I think within 6 inches, even) and she spends all day on zoom calls with people and it's audible in the background of her work calls and she makes way more money than I do, so I want an automated way to turn it off I like the z switch idea, I think I'll finally rig up octoprint and set it up to trigger a smart home smart plug when an event happens
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Oct 4, 2021 11:57
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Filament 3d printers just aren't as much of a safety problem as resin printers when it comes to material handling and environmental hazards, and continuing to compare the two when it comes to safety/PPE/Ventilation discussions is a bad path to follow.Hadlock posted:I normally have him on mute after he crack-pinged about two months ago Any particular reason for the desire to Rube Goldberg a solution instead of... moving the printer to another room?
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Oct 4, 2021 12:50
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Hadlock posted:I normally have him on mute after he crack-pinged about two months ago I think you are overthinking this. If the print is finished, show her where the power switch is and she can turn it off. if the print isn't finished, then either move it or install quiet fans. With good ones, it should be pretty close to silent. PS: Putting people on ignore is weak. :P
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Oct 4, 2021 13:52
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if she's crammed in that close with it, why can't she just manually turn off the switch when it's stopped printing?
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Oct 4, 2021 13:54
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Javid posted:if she's crammed in that close with it, why can't she just manually turn off the switch when it's stopped printing? Exactly what I was going to suggest. Seems easy enough of a solution.
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Oct 4, 2021 14:13
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It's darkly amusing to me how wide the range is in terms of how people treat resin printer safety. You've got everything from people running these printers all day on their desks two feet from their face to people who won't run them anywhere except in a detached structure with a full fume hood and scrubber. There's also very little authoritative or reliable information. Even with a background in chemistry and tons of research into the topic I'm not at all confident in my own choices or making suggestions for other people. Resin printing is cool as hell, but extremely disconcerting in some ways.
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Oct 4, 2021 14:46
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Paradoxish posted:There's also very little authoritative or reliable information. Even with a background in chemistry and tons of research into the topic I'm not at all confident in my own choices or making suggestions for other people. Resin printing is cool as hell, but extremely disconcerting in some ways. Where are you buying your resins? Because everybody from Elegoo (just one example, they have others) to Prusa (ditto note as with Elegoo) to Monoprice to Siraya Tech (again, just one example for one material type) has MSDS sheets that tell you exactly what you need to worry about with regard to safety and dangers associated with the resins. Literally five seconds on Google led me to this page Clemson University has publicly posted about how to use their machines if you're a student and plan to print things using their equipment (with lots of nice links to other relevant information, as well as some policy notes that appear to be about students that intend to have a 3d printer in the dormitories given the notes about how SLA/Resin printers must be set up in a lab enviroment). https://www.clemson.edu/research/oes/ihsafety/threedprintsafety.html Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:01 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 14:58
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Paradoxish posted:I guess I've been lucky since I've been running the printer pretty heavily for more than 3 months and there doesn't seem to be any indication right now that the FEP is in imminent need of replacement. I do have a roll of replacement film ready to go just in case. My printers pretty much run 24/7 so 3 months of printing is a lot of printing. Even then I probably don't need to replace the FEP most of the time but I still do just to keep everything on the same replacement schedule. At some point I need to take the time to print a build plate of minis before a FEP change and then print the same plate afterwards just to see if there's a visible difference between the prints because I'm not sure there will be. Javid posted:I feel like that still amounts to a few hundred bucks, with resin and the rest of the assembly line and other startup costs included, so it's not THAT cheap. Still *pretty* cheap. There's some pretty ghetto setups you can run just fine with (pickle buckets and coffee cans with LED strip lights) if you do want to try out resin printing on the cheap. Also it's really worth pointing out that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the original photon. I'm willing to bet nobody would even be able to tell the difference between prints off of that versus one of the new monochrome machines. Printing times are longer but that's really the only downside.
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Oct 4, 2021 15:02
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Where are you buying your resins? Because everybody from Elegoo (just one example, they have others) to Prusa (ditto note as with Elegoo) to Monoprice to Siraya Tech (again, just one example for one material type) has MSDS sheets that tell you exactly what you need to worry about with regard to safety and dangers associated with the resins. An MSDS is not in any way a replacement for actual data on exposure and risks, and the sheets you linked are extremely poor in terms of recommendations. There's much better information on long-term exposure limits for something as simple and widely used cyanoacrylate. It's also worth pointing out that the Elegoo data sheet you linked is in direct contradiction to your post here: quote:RIP your lungs. If you can smell it, it's a problem (and as another poster said, even if you can't smell it there is probably a problem). Resins are toxic as gently caress. Ventilate that poo poo. Their exposure controls/PPE section lists no exposure limits, recommends absolutely no breathing equipment or ventilation under normal usage conditions, and doesn't even strongly recommend glove usage. It's basically "wash your hands before you eat if you touched it."
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Oct 4, 2021 15:10
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Paradoxish posted:An MSDS is not in any way a replacement for actual data on exposure and risks, and the sheets you linked are extremely poor in terms of recommendations. There's much better information on long-term exposure limits for something as simple and widely used cyanoacrylate. It's also worth pointing out that the Elegoo data sheet you linked is in direct contradiction to your post here: An MSDS is, however, a head's up document that you should take precautions. They are also all written from the perspective of the reader being properly trained in basic safety precautions when handling or working with industrial chemicals and substances. If you're going to look at Elegoo's MSDS compared to the others and say "Welp, it's safe to go without basic PPE!" then you shouldn't be advising anybody about anything to do with resin printing, you're correct about that in your previous post. Also, since you missed it:  and  Now, what happens to resin materials when resin machines are printing? What's that? They are warmed by the UV reaction and/or warmed by the user for easier printing? Oh wait, "good industrial hygiene practice" can't possibly mean making sure to wear proper PPE if you find yourself encountering industrial fumes from an industrial process, can it? Yeah, the sheet doesn't specifically say "if you smell fumes during use, you should probably put on some PPE (or set things up so that you ventilate the fumes away from the area you are in)" but that opening statement about avoiding breathing the dust/fumes from the substance isn't exactly rocket science in terms of the thought process for how to avoid it. I know home hobbyists like to play fast and loose with safety precautions vs. how things would work if you were exposed to these things throughout a work shift at a company (assuming it isn't run by cartoonishly evil people), but resin printing has been around since the 1970s and every industrial setup you may encounter about it will have specific respiratory PPE recommendations. I see no reason why this wouldn't hold true for someone hotboxing their resin printer in their living space. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 15:51 on Oct 4, 2021 |
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Oct 4, 2021 15:46
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