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Make sure you’re doing the fixing bolt too. You can sort of half rear end it but the tool is super cheap.
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# ? Jan 17, 2022 03:22 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 05:24 |
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Put some grease on the threads and also make sure you go back and forth between the bolts as you reach nominal torque.
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# ? Jan 17, 2022 08:26 |
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mexecan posted:Edited for larger pics. Assume you also have the hollow tech crank preload tool?
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# ? Jan 17, 2022 09:39 |
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The most important thing for dual pinch bolt hollow cranks is even torque. If you go over or under spec a hair whatever but if you're out buy 3nm between bolts it's coming off at some point. Use a torque wrench. You'll get even torque and being in spec is a bonus.
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# ? Jan 17, 2022 15:54 |
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The way I’ve always done it is tighten until there’s a little resistance, then flip to the other bolt, repeat. Get it “tight”, repeat on other bolt, then the final step is tighten until the torque wrench clicks and do it for the other bolt.
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# ? Jan 17, 2022 16:25 |
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norp posted:Wtf What's crazy this shop had an expert wheel builder, but FLAT OUT lied about having the Park Hanger Tool. The shop is gone by the way. More examples (different shops): Shop assembled a bike but didn't tighten the derailer bolt - result? derailer into the spokes, what fun! Shop asked to re-tension a wheel, lies about having a spoke tension gauge. Shop didn't torque the crank bolts sufficiently (this was a new bike, I discovered this on the first ride).
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# ? Jan 18, 2022 01:23 |
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i got some shimano hubs with cup and cone bearings that feel really crunchy if you spin them around, but still function correctly. Will new ball bearings and grease make them good to go for some more years or is it time to buy new wheels? This is for a commuter beater hybrid
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# ? Jan 19, 2022 15:38 |
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It could help, but there is a good chance the cones are pitted.
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# ? Jan 19, 2022 15:44 |
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If it's for a beater don't even change the balls, just chuck some grease in and ride until the hubs fall apart.
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# ? Jan 19, 2022 17:19 |
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just throwing more grease in gets most crappy old hubs back to working just fine. cleaning off all old grease and dirt and replacing any obviously chipped bearings or cones is even better for long term life. and if they are nice hubs... might as well replace all the bearings and keep the removed ones that look fine for beater spares. I've never seen a hub hosed up enough to damage the races on the hub itself (though some get old grease so caked into it that it's nearly impossible to remove), but I've only been working on old bikes in quantity for a few years.
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# ? Jan 19, 2022 23:41 |
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Man_of_Teflon posted:just throwing more grease in gets most crappy old hubs back to working just fine. cleaning off all old grease and dirt and replacing any obviously chipped bearings or cones is even better for long term life. and if they are nice hubs... might as well replace all the bearings and keep the removed ones that look fine for beater spares. it definitely can happen. In nicer hubs you can just replace the races, but very few nice hubs come with loose bearings anymore, so...
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 05:46 |
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wild, how do they set the races in the hub?
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 07:08 |
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Man_of_Teflon posted:wild, how do they set the races in the hub? If you can change cartridge bearings, you can change cups. That is assuming you can find a proper replacement.
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# ? Jan 20, 2022 17:14 |
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Iirc there's no way to replace the cups on a high end Shimano hub but even if there was it'd cost $10 for the cups but $95 to ship them, just like the rest of Shimano's small service parts.
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# ? Jan 21, 2022 14:18 |
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So I have another advice request for the thread: I have a '70s French bike with original 27" wheels. They're a bit out of true, but seem fine other than having to replace rim tape because I kept getting flats from the spokes poking through. My two complaints with the bike are that it's five speed and really tough for steep hills and that the fenders I bought don't work because the wheels are slightly too large I guess, especially with the wobble from being out of true. So, I'm open to replacing the wheels with 700c and the cassette with a 10 speed and I think this would work, but I'm open to suggestions. The bike is nothing special other than I like it a lot. It's a 1970s motobecane nomade
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# ? Jan 30, 2022 00:22 |
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Mauser posted:So, I'm open to replacing the wheels with 700c and the cassette with a 10 speed and I think this would work, but I'm open to suggestions. The bike is nothing special other than I like it a lot. It's a 1970s motobecane nomade What's the cassette range and what chainrings do you have? Can you see if your brakes have enough reach to go down to 700C? It might get more expensive than swapping the cranks and chainrings to a give you a bailout ring. Fenders of the right width will almost certainly be adjustable to adapt to 27" wheels. The out of true is more likely to be the major cause of rubbing.
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# ? Jan 30, 2022 02:21 |
Can I use a 29" tube in a 700 tyre, provided the profile is the same? Or are the diameters different? I can't trust anything since I discovered the 'sizes' are just arbitrary and not reflective of the actual measurements at all.
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# ? Jan 30, 2022 02:31 |
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Slavvy posted:Can I use a 29" tube in a 700 tyre, provided the profile is the same? Or are the diameters different? I can't trust anything since I discovered the 'sizes' are just arbitrary and not reflective of the actual measurements at all. Same diameter but check the width. A 29" usually has a hell of a lot more tube in it than a 700.
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# ? Jan 30, 2022 03:00 |
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Mauser posted:So I have another advice request for the thread: I have a '70s French bike with original 27" wheels. They're a bit out of true, but seem fine other than having to replace rim tape because I kept getting flats from the spokes poking through. My two complaints with the bike are that it's five speed and really tough for steep hills and that the fenders I bought don't work because the wheels are slightly too large I guess, especially with the wobble from being out of true. Your 70s French derailer can't shift over a 10-speed cassette, your shift lever might not either, and your chainrings are too wide for a 10-speed chain, much like your 5-speed chain is too fat for a 10-speed cassette. Your frame likely isn't wide enough at the dropouts for anything but a 5-speed freewheel, as well. Basically, you're looking at a complete rebuild, not a small change. However, you can have your current hubs laced to 700c rims, and depending on the exact rear hub you have, you can get a new freewheel with a wider range of gears. You could also solve the gear situation by swapping chainrings or the whole crank, but that can get really dicey on an old French bike, depending on how it was built. You'll want to read Sheldon Brown's section on French bikes if you want to keep this machine going. E: this isn't to say it's not worth taking care of this bike, just that you'll have to do it with period-appropriate parts. I've restored my dad's 70s Motobécane, using modern parts where they'd fit both physically and esthetically, and leaving well enough alone where they wouldn't. SimonSays fucked around with this message at 03:11 on Jan 30, 2022 |
# ? Jan 30, 2022 03:07 |
SimonSays posted:Same diameter but check the width. A 29" usually has a hell of a lot more tube in it than a 700. This is what I'm counting on actually, thanks!
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# ? Jan 30, 2022 04:03 |
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kimbo305 posted:What's the cassette range and what chainrings do you have? Can you see if your brakes have enough reach to go down to 700C? It might get more expensive than swapping the cranks and chainrings to a give you a bailout ring. I'll go take a look, but based on vvv I don't think this is a real option for right now. SimonSays posted:Your 70s French derailer can't shift over a 10-speed cassette, your shift lever might not either, and your chainrings are too wide for a 10-speed chain, much like your 5-speed chain is too fat for a 10-speed cassette. Your frame likely isn't wide enough at the dropouts for anything but a 5-speed freewheel, as well. The shift lever can allegedly handle 10 speed (previous lever bracket snapped off from being old as heck), but I think replacing all the components you mentioned might be a bit much for the moment, so I think I'll get the wheels trued and replace the tires when they wear out with a size down. I'll come back for advice if the spokes start breaking and I need to replace the rims, but for now I'll just deal with the small gear range. I've been riding a fixie on the hills now so I'll get used to it eventually. Thanks again guys
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# ? Feb 3, 2022 02:11 |
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Mauser posted:I'll go take a look, but based on vvv I don't think this is a real option for right now. Changing the rims and spokes and setting it up in 700 is a good project. Rims and spokes have improved way more than almost any other component since your bike was made. It'll be period-appropriate as well, French people used 700 in the 70s, 27" was just for the North American market.
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# ? Feb 3, 2022 03:44 |
Is 27" the same as 27 1-1/4? That's what all the old road bikes seemingly came with here.
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# ? Feb 3, 2022 04:05 |
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Yes, 1 1/4 is the width. There are different size 27" tires that all have the same bead seat diameter (630mm in the case of 27" wheels), like 1 1/8, 1 3/8 and maybe others. Inch wheel sizing is kind of weird because it's just the approx outer diameter of the tire, which obviously depends on the tire size/width. The BSD and width in mm is molded into most if not all tires though if you look close. So like a 29x2.2" mtb tire will have that printed on it but then if you look close at the rubber you'll see something like 54-622 meaning 54mm wide and 622mm bsd. further reading: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/tire-sizing.html E right and 27.5" mtb and 650b "gravel" wheels are also the same size. jamal fucked around with this message at 05:46 on Feb 3, 2022 |
# ? Feb 3, 2022 04:22 |
Looks like 27 x anything, in the context of old road bikes, is 630mm ISO. What makes this initially really confusing is 29" MTB tyres that are in fact just wide 622.
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# ? Feb 3, 2022 05:07 |
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Almost every tire size you'll hear refers to the outer tire diameter, except ISO size which is bsd. Even 700, 650, etc were originally outer diameter. It was like that because from a designer's point of view, it's more important to know the wheel size you're working with than the exact position of the rim in that circle. That comes later.
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# ? Feb 3, 2022 05:13 |
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Had a great ride in OC, California on Saturday BUT one of the bikes (new) on the group ride ended up getting a chain between the spokes and cassette. Once again a LBS didn’t understand how to set limit screws. I’m guessing they relied on the cable tension and didn’t even do this. And yes, I've seen this before.
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# ? Feb 8, 2022 00:40 |
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Not for nothing, but chain length sure becomes a bigger deal when you make the move from 36-46 over to 32-48. I've been on easy street for years and years, apparently.
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# ? Feb 8, 2022 01:08 |
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Does anyone ever have trouble with confidence in the maintenance work you're doing? I've done small stuff on my bike before, but today I put a new stem on, which led to me taking the whole fork out when I dropped the expansion bolt down the steerer tube. So, at the end of this simple stem swap I've had to pull the fork out, put the bearing cartridge back in the head tube, and actually replace the stem. In the grand scheme of things this is not a difficult task, but it's by far the most involved work I've done on my bike so far. Now a few hours later, I'm wondering whether I can even take my bike back out on the road again without being worried it'll fall apart the first time I hit a bump. Is this something you just get over, or do you look at stories like VideoGameVet above and just think that at the very least you cared about doing the maintenance right more than someone at a bike store who did it as one of the hundred bikes they worked on that day?
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 04:22 |
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Yeah, sorta
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 04:31 |
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Bunny Fiesta posted:Is this something you just get over, or do you look at stories like VideoGameVet above and just think that at the very least you cared about doing the maintenance right more than someone at a bike store who did it as one of the hundred bikes they worked on that day? You can't learn how things really work without breaking them. The process of loving up, feeling stressed, being mad at yourself, figuring it out, getting it working... it takes a little bit to pay off, but yeah that's a universal experience.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 04:44 |
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Bunny Fiesta posted:Does anyone ever have trouble with confidence in the maintenance work you're doing?
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 05:38 |
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CopperHound posted:Pay a professional to work on the bike you need. Learn on a bike you like but can afford to lose. I might be biased, but I'm choosing to interpret this to mean "buy a new bike."
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 05:46 |
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Bunny Fiesta posted:I might be biased, but I'm choosing to interpret this to mean "buy a new bike."
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 05:49 |
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I stripped my frame down to metal to do a spray job last year It was great to see how it all fits together and it's all simple enough to see how it all fits together Admittedly it's a $25, 40 year old road bike with friction shifters, but it's fine Deffo glad I did it and after a few test rides I have confidence enough to ride around town
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 11:38 |
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Every time I've taken a wheel off I'm worried I'll have put it back incorrectly and it will pop off like a bad internet gif the next time I jump a curb. This has never happened to me, but stupid anxiety has never let reality stand in the way I guess.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 11:55 |
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Phosphine posted:Every time I've taken a wheel off I'm worried I'll have put it back incorrectly and it will pop off like a bad internet gif the next time I jump a curb. I had this happen to a bike trailer once while riding down the road Was like something out of a far side cartoon, hearing a loud scraping sound and the 16 inch wheel roll by and me running the algebra in my head
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 12:00 |
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Bunny Fiesta posted:Does anyone ever have trouble with confidence in the maintenance work you're doing? I've done small stuff on my bike before, but today I put a new stem on, which led to me taking the whole fork out when I dropped the expansion bolt down the steerer tube. So, at the end of this simple stem swap I've had to pull the fork out, put the bearing cartridge back in the head tube, and actually replace the stem. In the grand scheme of things this is not a difficult task, but it's by far the most involved work I've done on my bike so far. Now a few hours later, I'm wondering whether I can even take my bike back out on the road again without being worried it'll fall apart the first time I hit a bump. If you're not sure, ask a good shop to do the work or look it over. No shame in being safe.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 14:21 |
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Have some weird rust develop on my chain after ultrasonic cleaning . I did 2 ultrasonic cleans on a brand new shimano cn-m8100 using Zep citrus cleaner with hot water, followed up by an alcohol rinse/5min soak while I waited for my other chain to wax (91% iso since I can't find mineral spirits and like in CA). Now it has small red discoloration on many of the plates, not entirely sure what I should do to get that off. I've given it a wax bath in the meantime to seal it up. Weirdly the other chain (same brand new CN-M8100) but stamped with TF instead of TG didn't discolour and has remained shiny/silver. Anything I should do to try and clean the rusted up chain? I was thinking of giving it a diluted CLR ultrasonic bath followed by a water rinse and then re waxing.
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 16:39 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 05:24 |
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paberu posted:Have some weird rust develop on my chain after ultrasonic cleaning . I did 2 ultrasonic cleans on a brand new shimano cn-m8100 using Zep citrus cleaner with hot water, followed up by an alcohol rinse/5min soak while I waited for my other chain to wax (91% iso since I can't find mineral spirits and like in CA). You can just use the rusted chain, the rust will gently caress off under use
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# ? Feb 15, 2022 22:05 |