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mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Jestery posted:

While are on topic of recumbents

I've seen some recumbents set up so that the drivetrain in part of the steering assembly

Is this really a thing?, It seems like it would unduly impact steering and cause other issues?
Yes it is a thing, but anything over walking speed you don't tend to move your handlebars more than a few degrees,

BlancoNino posted:

You won't be doing any hard cornering on a recumbent, and with the chains as long as they are you can get away with a lot of flex.
Recumbents can corner as hard as any other bike, the center of gravity is usually quite low, and you never risk grounding a pedal.

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Kidney Stone
Dec 28, 2008

The worst pain ever!

Slavvy posted:

Do they usually have gears?

Is it true they're a lot more efficient than normal bikes and banned from racing for *reasons*?

Yep, either derailleur gearing, or some kind of IGH (Nexus, Alfine, Rohloff, Nuvinci...). I'm building mine with a 8-speed Alfine - although I might upgrade to a 11-speed Alfine later.

BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010

mikemelbrooks posted:

Yes it is a thing, but anything over walking speed you don't tend to move your handlebars more than a few degrees,

Recumbents can corner as hard as any other bike, the center of gravity is usually quite low, and you never risk grounding a pedal.

You worded it better than I could with that first part, my bad

SoylentCola
Mar 21, 2001

Ultra Carp
Finally had a nice day and the new bike is out of the shed, it is very orange and very lively.
Ribble CGR AL with a Shimano GRX RX400 groupset.





Excuse the first photo but if I stepped back another inch I would be annihilated by a BMW.

SoylentCola fucked around with this message at 14:40 on Jan 9, 2022

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
so here's the bike I built



I'm still dialing in saddle placement and waiting for my natural color leather saddle that I ordered from selles ideale in france to get here and one day I might polish the non-silver bits to match the rest of it, but otherwise I love this thing so much and climbing hills single speed is kicking my legs' asses. I chose marathon+ tires because I hope to never have to replace a tube outdoors with a rear wheel that needs some tension to ride properly. I had a flat on brand new tires on my other bike directly outside my back gate from broken glass. It's everywhere in Baltimore.

If you guys can spot anything that needs fixing let me know because this is my first bike I've put together. Bike shop did the prep on the frame, headset install and the chain fitting because the tools required for that are things I will likely not buy.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Congrats on the new bike!

The only obviously wrong thing I can see is that you need a purple water bottle cap instead of an orange one.

Regarding dialing in the saddle fit: many folks find that tilting a leather Brooks slightly backward from level makes it fit better. Not much, just a degree or two, but it's different than most non-leather saddles where you want them level or a degree or two forward.

BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010


https://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut

I have one of these on my fixie and it makes rear tire maintenance way less of a pain.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

bicievino posted:

Congrats on the new bike!

The only obviously wrong thing I can see is that you need a purple water bottle cap instead of an orange one.

Regarding dialing in the saddle fit: many folks find that tilting a leather Brooks slightly backward from level makes it fit better. Not much, just a degree or two, but it's different than most non-leather saddles where you want them level or a degree or two forward.

the water bottle was actually quite frozen after a couple hours riding, so I dunno what to do about that, but not the main concern. The brooks saddle is gonna go back on my '70s Motobecane nomade when I get the new saddle in

BlancoNino posted:



https://surlybikes.com/parts/tuggnut

I have one of these on my fixie and it makes rear tire maintenance way less of a pain.

How does it work, because it looks like you could ratchet the wheel into place by hand

BlancoNino
Apr 26, 2010
The backside of that tensioner has a notch that fits in the dropout, and that little bolt is basically hand tightened and pulls the axle away to keep things snug. It isn't a necessity but I do like not having to worry or fuss with getting the right amount of tension after maintenance.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
guy I know built up this ridiculous thing for bikepacking events






I love it

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.
Jones Loop bar with ESI Chunky's and aero bars on a hardtail? I loving love it

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
I'm thinking of doing a similar bar setup. Don't know if I'll go all the way as flared as Jones but some flare + aero is a great bikepacking setup.

Time
Aug 1, 2011

It Was All A Dream
Yeah it can be really nice on a 200 mile day to get some time off your hands

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

Bottom Liner posted:

I'm thinking of doing a similar bar setup. Don't know if I'll go all the way as flared as Jones but some flare + aero is a great bikepacking setup.

I think any flared flat bars plus SQLabs inner bar ends is a good combo as well. Not sure if it'll fit well with aero bars added though.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
The downside to those over full aeros is that you're still putting weight and pressure on your wrists/hands. I ride on my forearms on drops a lot while bikepacking (and hold my handlebar bag for stability). I have some cheap carbon aero clip ons but they take up too much space on the flats, which is why I'm thinking of converting to flared mtb bars.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
I just recently dipped my toes in the back sweep waters and put SQLabs 16deg bars on my fat bike. I like them a lot, really helps my wrists after a couple hours especially on a rigid bike. I do need to still get a slightly longer stem but I’m thinking about another one for my hard tail.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

funkymonks posted:

I just recently dipped my toes in the back sweep waters and put SQLabs 16deg bars on my fat bike. I like them a lot, really helps my wrists after a couple hours especially on a rigid bike. I do need to still get a slightly longer stem but I’m thinking about another one for my hard tail.

Go even further imo. I'm on 30deg Ritchey Kyotes for my MTB, and even that isn't quite the same as the 45deg of the Jones Loop. It really does use different muscles. Very noticeable in turns.

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
Alright I'm convinced, ordered an alloy Tumbleweed Persuader bar, 31 deg back sweep. I'm starting to collect bars like I collect tires.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
Ok, what saddles are you guys riding for 100km+ days because on my first experience bikepacking last summer after ~50 miles my butt was aching on a rather firm specialized saddle. soft squishy stuff doesn't work for me because I go numb immediately.

Crumps Brother
Sep 5, 2007

-G-
Get Equipped with
Ground Game

Mauser posted:

Ok, what saddles are you guys riding for 100km+ days because on my first experience bikepacking last summer after ~50 miles my butt was aching on a rather firm specialized saddle. soft squishy stuff doesn't work for me because I go numb immediately.
Saddles are a pretty personal item with regards to comfort. Finding the right saddle takes a bit of black magic, maybe an LBS with a loaner program, and/or just a poo poo load of luck. That having been said, my long ride saddle is the now discontinued Specialized Toupe 127mm (133mm? The narrow af one).

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna
If your saddle fits then it's just about time on it. Doing 50 miles out of nowhere is going to hurt, but if you ride multiple times a week for a few hours, 100m feels like nothing. I'm on a Brooks Cambrium and like it, but I might try the one with the cutout next.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Mauser posted:

Ok, what saddles are you guys riding for 100km+ days because on my first experience bikepacking last summer after ~50 miles my butt was aching on a rather firm specialized saddle. soft squishy stuff doesn't work for me because I go numb immediately.

I have 7 Specialized Power saddles in 143mm because of how good they are for my rear end.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I have 7 Specialized Power saddles in 143mm because of how good they are for my rear end.

This is me with Fizik Antares Versus Evo in the 149 wider size.

To get there I went through multiple saddles. Just exchanged/returned until I found the magic perch.

My process was to find the shape/profile that generally worked for me (flat vs curved from nose to tail and side to side) and then moved to cutout/no cutout, and then width. For me width is the least impactful factor for comfort, but profile and cutout style were critical.

Had a Selle Italia Flite (new style, not the retro one) for years and it was always "okay". Used that for the shape/profile reference, then tried it with a cutout (cutout shape was wrong), then a Prologo Dimension (shape was off and I don't care for the short nose trend cuz I like to move around) then the Fizik but in the regular width, then the wide one.

For me, I knew immediately when I found the right one. Don't settle for something that's "okay". Good luck!!!

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
I like the pro stealth, have 2. Also the fabric scoop.

CaptainTofu
Jun 1, 2021

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I have 7 Specialized Power saddles in 143mm because of how good they are for my rear end.

All my bikes have a Specialized Phenom 155mm on them, even my road bike. Once you find what works, it's hard to try anything else.

El Laucha
Oct 9, 2012


Mauser posted:

Ok, what saddles are you guys riding for 100km+ days because on my first experience bikepacking last summer after ~50 miles my butt was aching on a rather firm specialized saddle. soft squishy stuff doesn't work for me because I go numb immediately.

Do you care about weight? If you don't, Brooks Cambium. I can go for 10-11 hours on the C17 before I start getting uncomfortable. Just bought a C15 but haven't switched it yet. The c17 weights like 500gr, I use it on my gravel bike so its not really a problem.

Got money to spend? S-Works Power mirror. Got one for my road bike a few months ago and its incredible, easy 6-8 hours without thinking about the saddle.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.
I got a Brooks B17 for my commuter based on the sheer number of recommendations it gets but just couldn't get on with it, don't think it's suitable for the riding position and the rails are very short so it's hard to get enough setback.

Now have a Bontrager saddle that's a bit too solid on there. The C17 looks good though, might try it once I sell the B17.

CaptainTofu
Jun 1, 2021

Brooks leather saddles are some of the single most uncomfortable things I've ever sat on, bike seat or otherwise. Maybe they're good with bolt upright seating positions or something?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

CaptainTofu posted:

Brooks leather saddles are some of the single most uncomfortable things I've ever sat on, bike seat or otherwise. Maybe they're good with bolt upright seating positions or something?

They take forever to break in, but I’ve never gotten close cuz they have more pressure than most right up the middle. The carved option was extremely pinchy in the same area.

CaptainTofu
Jun 1, 2021

Yeah broken in or not, my experience has been a saddle that causes extreme and rapid pressure discomfort.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



Heliosicle posted:

I got a Brooks B17 for my commuter based on the sheer number of recommendations it gets but just couldn't get on with it, don't think it's suitable for the riding position and the rails are very short so it's hard to get enough setback.

Now have a Bontrager saddle that's a bit too solid on there. The C17 looks good though, might try it once I sell the B17.

I bought a C17 with the cutout and absolutely hated it. It’s on my beater bike that I use to ride to the store because I can only tolerate about 30 minutes of it.

I also don’t understand how it’s so heavy.

Project M.A.M.I.L.
Apr 30, 2007

Older, balder, fatter...
I bought a used bike years ago that had a Sell Italia Aspide Arrowhead with a cutout on it. I now own 3 of them because I love them so much. I also have one of the non-cutout versions which is pretty nice, and recently I bought a more modern one with carbon rails and body (not exacrly the same but same style). Once you find what works you have to future proof:)

Partial Octopus
Feb 4, 2006



El Laucha posted:

Do you care about weight? If you don't, Brooks Cambium. I can go for 10-11 hours on the C17 before I start getting uncomfortable. Just bought a C15 but haven't switched it yet. The c17 weights like 500gr, I use it on my gravel bike so its not really a problem.

Got money to spend? S-Works Power mirror. Got one for my road bike a few months ago and its incredible, easy 6-8 hours without thinking about the saddle.

I really like the cambium but it will SHRED your jeans.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



I’ve been building this Stumpy over the winter from a frame I found for $63. I didn’t really have any particular idea (or need) for it, mostly using parts bin components or buying cheap stuff when it pops on an eBay saved search. Sort of an organic growth. I guess right now it would be best used for light MTB trails or gravel. There’s zero mounting points on the frame so any sort of bikepacking will have to use bags, but the fork has no shortage of mounts for a front rack with low rider pannier or something.

The Sensah groupset has been fine so far on the stand but I’d want to beat on it hard locally before taking it out anywhere away from home. It essentially operates like a SRAM doubletap shifter except the entire brake lever moves, there’s no separate shift paddle. There is a lockout mechanism that is supposed to prevent the shifter from actuating when braking but if you yank on it you can bypass it. The RD is awfully close to the ground on 26” wheels so definitely a bike to have a spare hanger or two.

Frame: 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Comp
Fork: Surly Troll, this has the right ATC to compensate for the Judy XC fork that originally came with the bike
Brifters: Sensah SRX Pro
Crank: Raceface 38t
RD/Cassette: Sensah SRX Pro, 11-50
F Brake: TRP Hy/Rd
R Brake: Avid Shorty Ultimate
Tires: Schwalbe Rapid Rob
Misc: FSA headset, RaceFace seatpost, some Bontrager saddle, Oval brand handlebar, Supacaz tape and cages

Hoping to cut the half mile of steerer this weekend and can dial in the fit a bit more. Hard to get into a good position with that steerer tube in the way.



Literally Lewis Hamilton fucked around with this message at 01:02 on Jan 27, 2022

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

El Laucha posted:

Do you care about weight? If you don't, Brooks Cambium. I can go for 10-11 hours on the C17 before I start getting uncomfortable. Just bought a C15 but haven't switched it yet. The c17 weights like 500gr, I use it on my gravel bike so its not really a problem.

Got money to spend? S-Works Power mirror. Got one for my road bike a few months ago and its incredible, easy 6-8 hours without thinking about the saddle.

Bottom Liner posted:

If your saddle fits then it's just about time on it. Doing 50 miles out of nowhere is going to hurt, but if you ride multiple times a week for a few hours, 100m feels like nothing. I'm on a Brooks Cambrium and like it, but I might try the one with the cutout next.

I ride about an hour or two per day, definitely less the last few weeks now that it's been really frigid temps on the east coast. The bikepacking trip was better the second day, but man finishing 50 miles the first day was hard. I actually have one of the cambium saddles, I just haven't ridden it more than a couple dozen miles total because the bike I put it on I kinda replaced. I like it though and I'm going to make my wife try it since she's been complaining about her saddle given her numbness.

CaptainTofu posted:

Brooks leather saddles are some of the single most uncomfortable things I've ever sat on, bike seat or otherwise. Maybe they're good with bolt upright seating positions or something?

I have a brooks swift saddle that took a bit to break in, but is pretty great for my road bike riding in a more forward position and pretty comfy for under four hour rides around town. Haven't tried longer than that though. I mentioned upthread that I ordered a handmade leather saddle that I'm really looking forward to, so I'll report back on that in a few months once I get it and break it in.

Bottom Liner
Feb 15, 2006


a specific vein of lasagna

CaptainTofu posted:

Brooks leather saddles are some of the single most uncomfortable things I've ever sat on, bike seat or otherwise.

This is true for about 200 miles. Much like leather boots, once you break them in they feel made for you. I miss my old leather Brooks.

CaptainTofu
Jun 1, 2021

In my personal experience (and saddles are all personal, not objective) it remains true indefinitely. They seem to put pressure pretty much everywhere I don't want it even after a long break in.

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
I got lucky with my early tries and found that Ergon saddles work really well for me. Not too flat or too swoopy, nice pressure relief cutout, a little room to move around if need be. One of their mountain bike ones is just the road saddle with a smidge more padding and it's been great for gravel, but the road saddle shape/padding level has been good on pavement for me.

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:

I’ve been building this Stumpy over the winter from a frame I found for $63. I didn’t really have any particular idea (or need) for it, mostly using parts bin components or buying cheap stuff when it pops on an eBay saved search. Sort of an organic growth. I guess right now it would be best used for light MTB trails or gravel. There’s zero mounting points on the frame so any sort of bikepacking will have to use bags, but the fork has no shortage of mounts for a front rack with low rider pannier or something.

The Sensah groupset has been fine so far on the stand but I’d want to beat on it hard locally before taking it out anywhere away from home. It essentially operates like a SRAM doubletap shifter except the entire brake lever moves, there’s no separate shift paddle. There is a lockout mechanism that is supposed to prevent the shifter from actuating when braking but if you yank on it you can bypass it. The RD is awfully close to the ground on 26” wheels so definitely a bike to have a spare hanger or two.

Frame: 1996 Specialized Stumpjumper M2 Comp
Fork: Surly Troll, this has the right ATC to compensate for the Judy XC fork that originally came with the bike
Brifters: Sensah SRX Pro
Crank: Raceface 38t
RD/Cassette: Sensah SRX Pro, 11-50
F Brake: TRP Hy/Rd
R Brake: Avid Shorty Ultimate
Tires: Schwalbe Rapid Rob
Misc: FSA headset, RaceFace seatpost, some Bontrager saddle, Oval brand handlebar, Supacaz tape and cages

Hoping to cut the half mile of steerer this weekend and can dial in the fit a bit more. Hard to get into a good position with that steerer tube in the way.





Obviously I love this; my take:

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nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Bottom Liner posted:

This is true for about 200 miles. Much like leather boots, once you break them in they feel made for you. I miss my old leather Brooks.

I did a daily commute of 10 miles each day and it never broke in for me. Since it was only 5 miles each way it’s not like it hurt or anything, just not comfortable at all.

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