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VideoGameVet posted:I'd like to build a decent (mechanical) 1x12 setup on a bike with a 135mm rear spacing. https://www.bikecalc.com/speed_at_cadence  ymmv but seems okay, i got a touch higher gearing then that on my gravel bike and manage to get up some pretty gnarly hills.
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Sep 15, 2022 09:52
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Hardest part would be finding a 135mm QR hub with XD barring that an 11-52 HG cassette would work just fine too
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Sep 15, 2022 14:54
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i did similar with 11-50 HG and a 42t apex crankset and it worked fine
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Sep 15, 2022 15:35
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Few things as mentioned any sram cassette with a 10t little cog uses an XD freehub body. Or with shimano, microspline. 11t is the smallest that will go on a standard HG freehub body. You can probably get an XD freehub body for some 135mm qr hubs like a dt swiss whatever for example but not everything will let you do that. And then without going electric shifters there isn't an off the shelf setup that lets you use a 12s mtb cassette with drop bars. So you need axs with a mtb derailleur, or one of these deals that lets you replace the ratchet mechanism in an 11s road shifter https://ratiotechnology.com/product/12-speed-upgrade-kit/
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Sep 15, 2022 16:22
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jamal posted:And then without going electric shifters there isn't an off the shelf setup that lets you use a 12s mtb cassette with drop bars. microshift does make a 12spd bar end shifter! that’s what i used and it was great (but i love bar ends)
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Sep 15, 2022 17:15
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VideoGameVet posted:I'd like to build a decent (mechanical) 1x12 setup on a bike with a 135mm rear spacing. My grocery/errand/around-town bike is 650b, 42t chainring, 11-42 cassette and it works really well for me. I think your proposed set up is pretty good for most usage cases, though you may want a slightly bigger chainring if you are intending to do mostly gofast tryhard roadie stuff on pavement
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Sep 15, 2022 17:18
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Man_of_Teflon posted:microshift does make a 12spd bar end shifter! that’s what i used and it was great (but i love bar ends) I too love Bar Ends, Thanks.  (My Bob Jackson in 1976 with Suntour Bar Ends)
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Sep 15, 2022 20:41
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The bike I'm building up: (I bought the large size frame with the fork for wide 650B wheels)
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Sep 15, 2022 20:45
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e.pilot posted:Hardest part would be finding a 135mm QR hub with XD That sounds like a good solution given the 135mm rear spacing.
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Sep 15, 2022 20:47
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VideoGameVet posted:I too love Bar Ends, Thanks.  Don't mind me, just reading the forums while on a ride.
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Sep 15, 2022 21:14
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bar ends are great, but are you a friction or an index kinda cyclist? me, i use friction in the front and index the rear
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Sep 15, 2022 21:21
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i don’t know if it’s even possible to index the front derailleur with bar ends
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Sep 15, 2022 21:21
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Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread:jesus WEP posted:friction in the front, index the rear
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Sep 15, 2022 23:04
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I just installed bar ends on my mini velo and they only stayed in indexed mode for about an hour
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Sep 15, 2022 23:14
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Dog Case posted:I just installed bar ends on my mini velo and they only stayed in indexed mode for about an hour
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Sep 16, 2022 00:27
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Indexed rear shifting has been a solved problem since the invention of hyperglide. If your bike is an out of tune sack of bent rear end derailleur hangers, there is still this lil switch for you. 
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Sep 16, 2022 00:48
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CopperHound posted:Indexed rear shifting has been a solved problem since the invention of hyperglide.
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Sep 16, 2022 00:51
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e.pilot posted:Bicycle Maintenance and Repair Megathread: Somebody remind me when I'm not on my phone
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Sep 16, 2022 00:55
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CopperHound posted:Indexed rear shifting has been a solved problem since the invention of hyperglide. This but on the down tube seems super common on 90's road bikes. Unless that's  I've no idea how you're meant to use normal non indexed friction shifters on the DT properly, I found myself constantly looking down and wobbling around with one hand on the bars. When they're on the bar like an old MTB it's a little fiddly but fun, on the DT they just feel super far away and awkward to me.
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Sep 16, 2022 02:50
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You shouldn’t really need to look at the shifter to shift it. Plus downtube shifters have a far superior aesthetic since there’s no cable housing up to the lever
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Sep 16, 2022 13:04
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Slavvy posted:This but on the down tube seems super common on 90's road bikes. Unless that's You reach down and blindly wiggle it til it feels good, it’s quite natural 😘
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Sep 16, 2022 13:20
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I just got a new bike after being away from riding for a few years. I've jumped a few years in technology, since my last bike had an aluminum frame and 10 speed Force/Rival, and regular rim brakes. The new one has a carbon frame, 12 speed electronic Force, and hydraulic brakes. Is there anything I should watch out for during breaking? Cable stretch presumably isn't as big of an issue (especially on the shifting side  ), but anything I should watch out for with the disc brakes?
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Sep 16, 2022 14:41
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Residency Evil posted:I just got a new bike after being away from riding for a few years. I've jumped a few years in technology, since my last bike had an aluminum frame and 10 speed Force/Rival, and regular rim brakes. The new one has a carbon frame, 12 speed electronic Force, and hydraulic brakes. If you drag them on long steep descents the failure mode is different: The hydraulic fluid can boil causing moderate to complete brake fade. Don’t drag your brakes down mountains. You can recover somewhat by pumping the levers. Also with heavy repeated use in a short period the discs will get really hot and can warp a bit and cause annoying rubbing noises. Not much you can do. Lastly, the hydraulic pistons will automatically adjust for pad wear, so the brakes will feel the same at the levers throughout the pads life, which is nice. This does make it harder to spot when they need replacing, and they’re inside a small caliper so harder to see than rim pads. Make sure you check your pads regularly. Road bike disc brakes seem more troublesome than mtb ones, tighter tolerances I think.
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Sep 16, 2022 15:11
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wooger posted:If you drag them on long steep descents the failure mode is different: That's super helpful, thank you. Sounds like I don't need to do anything with the cables as they bed in/wear in? Also, drat it, braking.
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Sep 16, 2022 15:18
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wooger posted:If you drag them on long steep descents the failure mode is different: This is why I stay with mechanicals. I live at the top of a grade where I will break 50mph if I stay off the brakes and there’s a traffic light most of the way down. When I had rim brakes the heating would result in rim cracks after 1500-2000 miles. On my discs I now run ceramic pads. Quiet and no fade.
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Sep 16, 2022 19:36
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I'm really liking the red MTX pads. Definitely have less noise.
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Sep 17, 2022 00:19
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Pretty excited about this thrift shop come up. $40 and I put air in the tires and rode it around the backyard for a couple of laps.      Also, my cheap work stand finally died from neglect. What’s the current best cheap option?
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Sep 17, 2022 03:21
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Residency Evil posted:That's super helpful, thank you. Sounds like I don't need to do anything with the cables as they bed in/wear in? Electronic SRAM + hydro right? What cables?
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Sep 18, 2022 18:38
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Might need to top off the electrons as they settle into place
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Sep 18, 2022 18:46
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Thufir posted:Electronic SRAM + hydro right? What cables? Wasn’t sure if the brakes needed anything special? I had all cable/mechanical bikes before okay? 
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Sep 18, 2022 23:04
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Residency Evil posted:Wasn’t sure if the brakes needed anything special? I had all cable/mechanical bikes before okay? Might want to do a bed-in https://support.sram.com/hc/en-us/articles/5927338428571-What-is-the-bed-in-procedure-for-SRAM-brakes-
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Sep 19, 2022 01:06
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Thufir posted:Haha, sorry. Yup, all set there. Thankfully that hasn't changed.
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Sep 19, 2022 02:05
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Interesting issue on my Edge 530. A band of what I thought was condensation started at the top of the screen and slowly moved its way down the sides and near the bottle. Popped off the screen today and no condensation. The screen is bonded to the body with either a waterproof glue that acts like a gasket or some sort of tape. However, the black material used on the glass itself that extends past the LCD screen is flaking off, so the screen is loose from the body. I scraped some off the right side to see how it would look mounted back in the body.  Going to email Garmin and see what they say.
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Sep 19, 2022 12:43
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I searched through the thread, but couldn't find anything. Is there a thread favorite torque wrench? I bought a park tool beam wrench but not sure I like this style as much as the ratcheting one I have for my car. Looking for something that can do 1-15 nm or so. edit: other thread likes this one: https://www.tekton.com/1-4-inch-drive-dual-direction-micrometer-torque-wrench-trq21101 ? Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 03:19 on Sep 22, 2022 |
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Sep 22, 2022 03:05
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I just bought this one from Chain Reaction Cycles, price was right and it was rated decently for the price when I googled it - https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/lifeline-essential-torque-wrench-set/rp-prod155414 Also got some DHB bibs and a jersey too, they're decent for the price as well
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Sep 22, 2022 03:20
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That is a great deal. With the bits, and an extension, for half what I paid for a BBB one with fewer bits.
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Sep 22, 2022 05:56
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Mmmmm baby yes all new cables and brake pads on bike, smooth smooth and tight and responsive. Always surprised by how much a difference new cables make after "only" 2-3 years. This is your reminder if you haven't replaced your cables in a while.
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Sep 24, 2022 02:07
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In a somewhat related mechanical moment, a couple years ago I was tuning up my offroading/camping rig (an old 4runner) and I was looking at the throttle cable... Which had so much stretch in it that it looked slack at idle. I tightened it up with the barrel adjust and wow did my throttle response improve! Tighten/adjust all the cables
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Sep 27, 2022 15:19
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I have a brake issue. I have a 2ish year old Trek FX 3 Disc. For the first 6-8 months it was my daily commuter but I since got a better commuter and use the Trek as a fitness bike that gets ridden at most once a week, but realistically only twice a month or so. It developed a squeal on the rear brake. I took it to the shop in town and the guy filed down the pad and said I probably put too much oil on the chain and it got into the brake pads. He is not at all a friendly guy and is unfortunately the only person in town willing to look at Trek bikes (I live in a small city - my options are limited). I want to avoid going back to him. But, the squeal never went away. It is, at this point, at least a year and a half of squealing. I've changed pads since then, multiple times. I replaced the rotor recently. The lever was feeling spongy so I bled the system. Lever is still spongy and even with brand new pads and rotor the brake squeals the same as always. Any ideas? I've been learning maintenance by reading a lot online and watching lots of tutorials. I feel like I end up breaking more than I fix and am getting frustrated to the point of wanting to just get rid of the bike and buy road bike for fitness but I'm sure I'd just gently caress that one up too.
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Oct 2, 2022 11:38
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Tuxedo Gin posted:I have a brake issue. I think you forgot to tell us what brake system you have, but if you're thinking of getting rid of the whole bike and not just replacing the brake maybe you aren't aware yourself that the brakes can be swapped out?
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Oct 2, 2022 12:37
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