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Toe Rag posted:Evel Knievel, noted Floridian, would surely endorse this helmet. Paired with the right blinding 90's sportbike colour scheme this would work well imo
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Sep 27, 2022 02:10
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I assume a "full face 'cafe'" helmet is like the Bell Bullitt which I definitely do not trust as being safe despite its safety certifications. Sincere post though: buy a modern full face helmet. While some helmets are better looking than others, there are definitely not fashion accessories! No one cares if the aesthetic of your helmet doesn't match that of your bike.
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Sep 27, 2022 02:10
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Toe Rag posted:I assume a "full face 'cafe'" helmet is like the Bell Bullitt which I definitely do not trust as being safe despite its safety certifications. Sincere reply: Yeah, I was looking at the Bullitt. But reading a bit around here, an extra couple hundo now seems very worth it. but I do wonder if Fastsigns will vinyl-wrap Rainbow Sparkle around an AGV Pista.
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Sep 27, 2022 04:23
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Vinyl wrapping an actually-good helmet is an excellent compromise between a cool corpse and a live square, and you can make it look like whatever you want!
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Sep 27, 2022 04:49
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Captain McAllister posted:While we're on brake chat, Quoting my own post to ask if this could also be an indication of wheel bearings going bad?
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Sep 27, 2022 05:19
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Captain McAllister posted:Quoting my own post to ask if this could also be an indication of wheel bearings going bad? This is a really easy thing to check but I'd say it's unlikely.
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Sep 27, 2022 05:21
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Furiously googling for a SNELL rated yarmulke
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Sep 28, 2022 13:08
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Toe Rag posted:I assume a "full face 'cafe'" helmet is like the Bell Bullitt which I definitely do not trust as being safe despite its safety certifications. I think the Bullitt is fine. Bell is a reliable and reputable manufacturer, so I'm not concerned that it's only DOT rated. The main point of getting a full face helmet is so that there's something between your teeth and the road, and the Bullitt does that. I suspect it is not as protective in really severe crashes as a heavier duty Shoei etc. That kind of thing is mostly unmeasurable, though. Every event is unique and anecdotal. Broadly, safety-wise there are only four categories of helmet to compare: No helmet Fake helmet/half helmet/brain bucket 3/4 helmet Full face helmet (including modular) Anything from the last category is better than anything from the others. I'd rather wear a bell Bullitt than the most expensive open face Shoei.
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Sep 28, 2022 15:24
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bell also offers helmets with MIPS, mine has it anyway. they aren't all just DOT. its pretty old though, I kinda want a fancy arai or something
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Sep 28, 2022 16:56
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Sagebrush posted:I think the Bullitt is fine. Bell is a reliable and reputable manufacturer, so I'm not concerned that it's only DOT rated. The main point of getting a full face helmet is so that there's something between your teeth and the road, and the Bullitt does that. I love the vintage look, but for 100 bucks more, the extra features, lightness, and comfort (anecdotally) of the basic RS-1400 may be worth it.
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Sep 28, 2022 17:52
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Bell can make good helmets. The Bullitt isn't a good helmet. It just looks pretty on a display shelf next to bespoke beard wax and d3o armoured flannel shirts. On a human head, on a human body, it makes you look like a pillock. 
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Sep 28, 2022 17:53
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So what makes it bad, besides the subjective looks?
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Sep 28, 2022 18:11
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Lego Minifig
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Sep 28, 2022 18:22
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TotalLossBrain posted:So what makes it bad, besides the subjective looks? Tiny chin bar, garbage aero, zero vents, a visor I guarantee seals like poo poo if at all.
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Sep 28, 2022 18:28
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Slavvy posted:Tiny chin bar, garbage aero, zero vents, a visor I guarantee seals like poo poo if at all. Yeah the chin bar and visor are what I'm worried about from a safety perspective, and the aero and venting look poor for comfort. The main shell is maybe fine? I don't have a problem with Bell helmets -- I have an MX-9, and certainly haven't ruled out Race Star if I want to splurge track helmet (definitely don't need one just yet).
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Sep 28, 2022 18:31
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Slavvy posted:Tiny chin bar, garbage aero, zero vents, a visor I guarantee seals like poo poo if at all. Until I see a Bullitt chin bar split in half from impact, I don't think the size of it actually matters that much. The point is just to keep your jaw from bouncing off the ground. A larger issue is simply that the visor port is much larger than on other helmets, so if the visor breaks or flips up in an impact, more of your face is now exposed to gravel and sticks and whatnot. Aero, venting and visor sealing are likely all not very good though yeah. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 20:09 on Sep 28, 2022 |
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Sep 28, 2022 20:06
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Sagebrush posted:Until I see a Bullitt chin bar split in half from impact, I don't think the size of it actually matters that much. The point is just to keep your jaw from bouncing off the ground. I dunno about that, judging from the contact patches with one's jaw and cheekbone of the pads inside, I'd question how much force get dispersed over how much area of polystyrene, and then how much area of one's face... I get that that big ole window seems nice, but how much visibility are you actually getting? Between HJCs and Shoeis I've worn I haven't ever thought my visor opening was too small or narrowed my field of vision, that seems like an excuse to buy retro looking stuff.
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Sep 29, 2022 00:04
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The bell looks like it's expressly designed to remove all your front teeth. Yeah better than an open face but not really confidence inspiring.
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Sep 29, 2022 00:09
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Fluffs McCloud posted:I dunno about that, judging from the contact patches with one's jaw and cheekbone of the pads inside, I'd question how much force get dispersed over how much area of polystyrene, and then how much area of one's face... Where you really benefit from extra visibility is the space above your eyes so you can tilt your head forward more and still see. The area below your nose is irrelevant yeah.
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Sep 29, 2022 00:46
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Slavvy posted:Where you really benefit from extra visibility is the space above your eyes so you can tilt your head forward more and still see. The area below your nose is irrelevant yeah. Lot of variables there, not the least of which the ergonomics of the bike. Yes, absolutely on a sportier bike, especially going up hills. Doing the same thing on and ADV, it's probably never an issue. I've got a brim on my helmet and after doing some mountain rides I'm considering removing it. It definitely interferes with upward visibility on the GSX-S on steep climbs. It was never an issue on anything else I rode. For me, peripheral vision is something I value greatly - being able to check stuff by moving your eyes and not your head is important to me. Some helmets (especially track biased ones) project a very forward facing field of view. I'm very happy with my AX9 and would say it's the gold standard for FOV for me. I'm fine with less, right now I'm using my backup which is fine, but my old GP Tech was too compromised in that regard.
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Sep 29, 2022 01:39
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Slavvy posted:The area below your nose is irrelevant yeah. Speaking of noses, looking at that picture all I am seeing is fog every time this guy takes a breath.
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Sep 29, 2022 02:00
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The Bell looks so good though.  It's a shame that science and testing sort of drives the one effective helmet design, cause I'd love to have a vintagy looking helmet that has modern safety and cooling and bluetooth.
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Sep 29, 2022 03:25
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Build a bigger, cosmetic shell around the modern helmet and gain bobblehead looks at the same time
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Sep 29, 2022 03:56
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TotalLossBrain posted:Build a bigger, cosmetic shell around the modern helmet and gain bobblehead looks at the same time Jim Silly-Balls posted:Lego Minifig
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Sep 29, 2022 04:02
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Isn’t the biltwell gringo the good version of that style of helmet?
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Sep 29, 2022 05:20
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Jim Silly-Balls posted:Lego Minifig I thought to myself "surely a product like this existst" and sure enough: https://www.amazon.com/Compatable-Universal-Perforated-Motorcycle-Sticker/dp/B087NYFN4P
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Sep 29, 2022 05:33
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Russian Bear posted:Isn’t the biltwell gringo the good version of that style of helmet? They make an ECE-certified version of the Gringo, so that's the one I'd get if I were in the market for such a helmet, I think. It doesn't appear to have any ventilation at all, though, and I'll bet it's noisy.
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Sep 29, 2022 08:09
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It is better to look good than to feel good
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Sep 29, 2022 16:23
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Any advice on refilling/bleeding a completely empty rear brake line, after a MC + caliper rebuild, in addition to or different from the FSM instructions? Sportsterpedia says "here's the book method, and also 73 other methods that could maybe also work" which is not confidence inspiring, and neither is the obvious air pocket the brake line routing appears to be designed for.
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Sep 29, 2022 19:05
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Pump the MC a bit then crack the banjo while holding the pedal down, do this until it's mostly fluid coming out. Then bleed at the caliper bleed screw. You can also take the caliper off, block up the piston with an object, and hold it higher than the MC to get the air out faster; I've never needed to do this but brake bleeding is something some people are unusually hopeless at and that might be you. E: spelling Slavvy fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Sep 30, 2022 |
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Sep 29, 2022 20:08
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epswing posted:Any advice on refilling/bleeding a completely empty rear brake line, after a MC + caliper rebuild, in addition to or different from the FSM instructions? Sportsterpedia says "here's the book method, and also 73 other methods that could maybe also work" which is not confidence inspiring, and neither is the obvious air pocket the brake line routing appears to be designed for. Back when I rebuilt my GS750's front brake master cylinder, I had to reassemble with what I assumed were dry lines, and I could not get any brake fluid into the lines, no matter how I pumped. It would flow down into the bleed tube and then get sucked right back up again when I let go of the lever, even when I think I remembered doing the correct procedure of squeeze->squeeze->squeeze->hold->open bleed->close bleed->release. I ended up having to buy a check valve for the line, whereupon it was bled easily. I tried this again when I recently rebuilt my GN125's front caliper (all of the brake fluid had trickled out of the front master cylinder and brake line at that point). That time, the procedure worked. Either I performed it correctly this time, or, there was still enough fluid in the master cylinder to create some kind of resistance to the backflow. Either way, if you have difficulty, just buy a cheap vacuum line check valve for the bleeder hose.
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Sep 30, 2022 03:47
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I've never had much joy with vacuum brake bleeders or those check valve things. They very often suck air back through the threads of the bleeder nipple, leaving a small air bubble in the caliper. Putting some grease around the base of the bleeder nipple helps, but still not super reliable and I'd rather not risk getting any foreign gunk in there. Can still be useful if you have changed out lines/caliper/MC and have a lot of air to bleed out, but I always finish it off with the usual "manual method".
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Sep 30, 2022 12:28
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I just did it manually, 10 pumps, hold it, crack the bleeder, repeat. Had to refill the reservoir once. Just spurted air the first 4-5 times, then only fluid, then the brakes were rock solid. I’ve had trouble bleeding brakes before, two things were different this time, (A) I obsessively cleaned/polished every component of both the MC and the caliper while I had them apart for the rebuild, including all threads I could reach, and (B) when cracking the bleeder I would close it before reaching the end of the pedal travel, which makes sense to me (reaching the end of lever/pedal travel seems to be inviting the chance of introducing air, maybe?) though I’m not sure how much that helped or made any difference.
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Sep 30, 2022 15:53
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Went for a short ride, good news and bad news. Good news is my rear brakes work great, actually they bite harder than my front brakes (which I will also be rebuilding soon) which is a little unsettling, locked up the rear a couple times while testing at low speed. (Note: I wasn't slamming the pedal, just gently applying increasing amounts of pressure.) Bad news is brake fluid is leaking from the bleeder, and the reservoir. The reservoir was almost empty. I can't tell yet if the leak is coming from the reservoir cap, or the hose connection underneath the reservoir. The bleeder screw is tight, torqued to the upper end of the spec. For the reservoir leak, I'll check the hose connection. Could this happen if it was overfilled? The bleeder leak, not sure what to do about that other than replacing it? epswing fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Sep 30, 2022 |
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Sep 30, 2022 19:09
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so, how aggressive did you get when you were polishing everything including threads?
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Sep 30, 2022 20:10
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Jazzzzz posted:so, how aggressive did you get when you were polishing everything including threads? Sprayed with brake cleaner, wiped with cloth. Specifically I held the nut end with one hand, and held the threads with a cloth, and rotated the cloth. Repeated with clean sections of cloth until I stopped seeing black/dirt/grime on the cloth. When I say cloth, I mean those blue shop towels.
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Sep 30, 2022 20:33
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A lot of the time a bit of fluid stays inside the bleeder hole itself and dribbles out later, I'd suggest blasting that with brake cleaner until it's dry then going for another ride and checking.
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Sep 30, 2022 20:37
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My front brake pads have this much slop in them. It causes them to make a clicking noise when I first tap the brakes and again when I release the lever after stopping. It's the same on both sides. Is this a problem? Is a part missing? It's been doing this for a while, took me some time to identify the noise, but I'm fairly sure it wasn't doing this initially after I changed the pads about 2 years ago. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Oct 1, 2022 |
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Oct 1, 2022 00:17
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The retaining pin is probably worn The plates that are meant to be on the back of the pads are missing entirely The spring clip that sits above the pads inside the caliper is either worn or missing Not all pads are the right shape despite claiming to be
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Oct 1, 2022 00:44
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I'm not sure what you mean about the plates that are meant to be on the back of the pads; I don't think anything like that fell off, and I don't see them on the parts fiche I can see part 12 is installed in the video, and I will double check for part 9 when I get home. The retaining pin is definitely smaller than the hole in the pads, so they do slide around there, though I don't know whether that's because of your first point or your fourth one. I suspect the latter. Is it going to cause a problem? Will the pads eventually hammer their way through the brake caliper casting, or is it just a clicking noise that doesn't matter?
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Oct 1, 2022 01:23
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