Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Mr. Wiggles
Dec 1, 2003

We are all drinking from the highball glass of ideology.
Yeah, I never had an issue shifting left hand. I used to drive a bunch of right hand drive vehicles, and as noted above - the muscle memory transfers.

Now, going the wrong direction in a roundabout in the middle of Manchester that one time, well, that was exciting.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


I'm thinking of making a career move and it might involve some more commuting than I currently have to do.

In my perfect scenario, I'd have a fully automatic driven vehicle but despite Tesla claims I am unaware that this is likely to happen in the next couple years.

I'd be looking at something for solo commuting, <150 miles round trip 2-4 days per week. I have an EV 220v charger in my garage added with our recent solar power upgrade but a pure EV is not mandatory. I'd be commuting in and out of Boston area so mostly driving 70-80mph and then driving stop and go ~5-15mph for a while sitting on an interstate somewhere. I do not care at all about looks, storage capacity, range (beyond what is needed for the daily commute) or anything else beyond it not being a complete shitbox or anything. Cost is not a factor for now as I'd like to see what is out there and then decide if its worth it. (I am also looking at just relying on public transportation but getting an idea of options here).

I currently have a 2017 Prius Prime PHEV and its pretty great overall, the adaptive cruise control is a big help but I am curious if there are any further features out there for driving ease / assistance that are well implemented enough to be useful? I really don't know much about the current status of those types of features other than watching Teslas run over kids strollers.

If nothing better exists am happy to just keep the Prius. What do yall think?

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





There's a car buying thread in A/T but in your shoes I'd be eyeballing a Bolt EUV with Supercruise.

big scary monsters
Sep 2, 2011

-~Skullwave~-

big scary monsters posted:

I have a problem with a 2008 Skoda Octavia, 2.0L diesel. When I try to start it, the engine briefly starts and then immediately dies. Headlights work OK, so does the radio, internal lights, remote locking etc., but no lights come on on the dash when you turn the key. I've tried two different keys. Worked fine yesterday, it's been below freezing for a few days (maybe -4C) but that's not unusual here. The only other thing out of the ordinary is the steering wheel is at an angle, I guess my partner parked it like that - wondered if that could somehow trigger the immobiliser. Is there any obvious stuff I can try before calling the garage on Monday?

Video (has sound):
https://i.imgur.com/natF6CY.mp4


When I went to look at the problem today my dash was back on and the car started first time. Trip mile counter was reset and I got an "airbag fault" message. I drove for 20 minutes with no problems, was able to start it a couple more times (airbag fault light stayed on). Very mysterious, I guess I'll still be getting a code reader.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Still check/clean them battery terminals.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Ja, that strongly indicates a battery hovering around the minimum threshold to maintain the body control module and/or ECU in a stupid/non-stupid state

spankmeister
Jun 15, 2008






PainterofCrap posted:

Ja, that strongly indicates a battery hovering around the minimum threshold to maintain the body control module and/or ECU in a stupid/non-stupid state

Agreed, but also it cranks normally?? It's a weird one.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

Ja, that strongly indicates a battery hovering around the minimum threshold to maintain the body control module and/or ECU in a stupid/non-stupid state

Because it cranks properly it sounds like one or more rotten grounds to me.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Can you go get a $9 multimeter at ace hardware or AutoZone and check the voltage of the battery

Sounds like a bad ground on the ECU or whatever. Capacitor might have enough juice to power the ECU for a few seconds or whatever before the ground fails

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Hadlock posted:

Can you go get a $9 multimeter at ace hardware or AutoZone and check the voltage of the battery

Sounds like a bad ground on the ECU or whatever. Capacitor might have enough juice to power the ECU for a few seconds or whatever before the ground fails

The PCM won't be involved in grounding the cluster or srs systems. That'll be an entirely different grounding bus with great care taken so that the srs system doesn't inadvertently fire because of an issue like this. That could be a potential lead with the srs faulting out, so read its codes.

This should be a new enough diesel that if there's a grounding fault in the PCM that it flat out won't start. There's likely 2-3-4 other sub modules generating a couple hundred Volts in some cases that control the engine and all of them need to be functional in some form or fashion. This isn't grandma's OM617.

Do get the multimeter. Do start probing around the fuse panel and all of the heavy gauge wires. Don't rule out that a pcb based fuse panel or a chassis ground lug is fine.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 22:54 on Mar 26, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Oh it's a diesel? I missed that part. And it stops running due to an electrical problem? That's... Weird. I'll stick to my diesels you can only kill by pulling out the choke

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
Diesels dont have chokes.....?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

How do you turn off your diesel

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

Hadlock posted:

How do you turn off your diesel

Most diesels have a fuel cut-off solenoid. Old truck engines had a lever to deactivate the intake valves.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe

Hadlock posted:

How do you turn off your diesel

By showing it pictures of ben shapiro.




Fuel cut solenoid within the pump, or a lever to run the governor to its stop position. MBZ did some funky poo poo using vacuum for this.
all the electronic ones cut power to the pcm and its respective subsystems. (blanket case because sometimes fuel injector drivers are external to the pcm, as is pump control in others)


E: I should say afaik the only 'diesel' with a 'choke' is the early dual fuel equipment that would have a decomp lever and started on gasoline with a traditional carburetor, then switched to diesel once running.
Others run a throttle plate for emergency use only, aka a runaway. This is not a shutdown valve as the turbo is not meant to be put under vacuum.
Modern diesels run a throttle plate for EGR to work correctly. It is afaik never fully closed.

cursedshitbox fucked around with this message at 01:20 on Mar 27, 2023

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Hadlock posted:

How do you turn off your diesel

Thats not a choke - A choke is for richening the fuel mix for a gasoline carby car for cold running. See above how a diesel gets cut off

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
Is it true that donkeys are the diesel version of horses?
(Overbuilt, slower, more torque, more efficient, smell worse, not as smooth, etc.)

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

Diesels dont have chokes.....?

All the tractors I've driven had a choke.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22

IOwnCalculus posted:

There's a car buying thread in A/T but in your shoes I'd be eyeballing a Bolt EUV with Supercruise.

Depending on the OPs commute in greater :wrongcity: coverage may not be great. There are a couple commuter arteries with gaps (notably route 2)

Id probably just keep the Prius and drive it in to the ground. Its a pretty ideal commuter if you dont care about dynamics and extreme comfort.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Webber 40 dcoe dual side draft carbs are rated for 300cfm and I see a bunch of kits for stuff like the 2.2L 22R that use 2x 40 dcoe dual side draft - each rated at 300cfm. A 22R with 100% volumetric efficiency would do 295cfm@7000rpm. Why do these kits have two? I've read varying bullshit between "Siamesed intake ports need larger peak volume" and "they just choke the poo poo out of them and use tiny jets"

Is this just blingy bullshit or is there a real reason, or is it just because nobody makes 66-125cfm side draft carburetors

There appears to be no shortage of 1.6 and 1.8L Miata intake adapters for the 40/45 dcoe Weber side drafts. I know those are revvy engines but I think they would struggle to cycle 300cfm even at 8000rpm, carbing them to 600cfm seems unwise

Edit: artist's impression of 2x 300cfm hollys on a 1.6 Miata




tactlessbastard posted:

All the tractors I've driven had a choke.

The pull knob on my diesel powered (late 90s yanmar) boat is labeled "choke" maybe it's a Japanese-American thing.

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 11:47 on Mar 27, 2023

chutwig
May 28, 2001

BURLAP SATCHEL OF CRACKERJACKS

I had a 0.1 mph collision with another car in a parking lot and the only casualty was the rear tow eye cover on my Bolt, which fell off permanently after I found it and put it back on. I would like to replace it so that the tow eye doesn't rust or get crap stuck in it.

I found https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-rear-bumper-fascia-tow-eye-access-hole-cover-42725738?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D, which looks like the right part, but 30 simoleons feels like a lot to pay for a silver dollar sized piece of plastic. Is there anywhere cheaper I can get this thing that isn't hoping a Bolt shows up in a junkyard somewhere?

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

chutwig posted:

I had a 0.1 mph collision with another car in a parking lot and the only casualty was the rear tow eye cover on my Bolt, which fell off permanently after I found it and put it back on. I would like to replace it so that the tow eye doesn't rust or get crap stuck in it.

I found https://www.gmpartsdirect.com/oem-parts/gm-rear-bumper-fascia-tow-eye-access-hole-cover-42725738?c=bD0xJm49U2VhcmNoIFJlc3VsdHM%3D, which looks like the right part, but 30 simoleons feels like a lot to pay for a silver dollar sized piece of plastic. Is there anywhere cheaper I can get this thing that isn't hoping a Bolt shows up in a junkyard somewhere?

Does rock auto sell them?

AlmightyPants
Mar 14, 2001

King of Scheduling
Pillbug
Since I've been working remote and not really driving so much anymore I got a 2008 BMW Z4 Coupe last year. I figured I'd get a small sports car before I got to be an old man who made lots of noises getting into and out of a car that's too low.

I'm not doing a ton of miles in it because, again, working remote, but one of the reasons is that the ride is too darn harsh. Like I get out and my lower back is killing me. I love the car but the whole pain part isn't the best. I'm not sure if it's the seats, which aren't the greatest, the tires, which might be run-flat, or the suspension. NY roads also aren't doing any favors. Googling around the consensus seems to be the run flats are the worst. I'm just looking for some more input from some folks who are more knowledgeable than myself if I'm missing something.

Bajaha
Apr 1, 2011

BajaHAHAHA.



Runflats are indeed terrible for ride comfort. Switching to a normal tire (pick something like a nice touring tire, sounds like with your use case it's acceptable to trade some cornering performance for comfort.)

If the suspension is original, your may want to look into new dampers all round, they tend to decay slowly and its hard to notice as they go bad since it's so gradual.

If there's multiple wheel size combos available on your model you might want to look into getting the smallest wheel available to give you as much sidewall as possible. The overall size of the wheel will stay the same but the additional sidewall helps reduce the harshness over bumps

Last suggestion if you're not too attached to this particular one is to go test drive other comparable convertibles like the Boxster or an SLK. It could be the ride quality or it could just be the seat design and ergonomics that don't jive with you.

E: misread coup as convertible, but the last point stands, just replace with cayman and whatever three letter alphabet soup name is the coup for Mercedes.

slothrop
Dec 7, 2006

Santa Alpha, Fox One... Gifts Incoming ~~~>===|>

Soiled Meat
Has anyone had something like this happen?



2016 Madza3, electric handbrake.

I took the car through the automatic carwash on Friday afternoon, drove it home (less than 100m) and parked it. Come Monday when I tried to move it, I noticed it seemed very difficult to initially move off, as if something was chocked under the back wheels. Moved eventually, but then made awful clunking noises - which appear to be the pictured debris/brake pads rubbing.

After removing most of the debris from the rotor, it still makes noises when the brakes are applied. I haven't driven it any real distance and I'm booked in at the mechanic for new rear pads and an inspection tomorrow.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to HOW this could happen, and the roadside assist guy was just as baffled. The only thing I can think is a buildup of wax or something from the carwash which didn't have time to dry before I made it home. But to cause such damage to the pads? I really hope it hasn't hosed anything else.

Oh this all happening on my birthday, so gently caress me, Happy Birthday :toot:

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Looks like the parking brake got stuck? Nothing a car wash applies should be able to make brake pads stick.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
If I had to guess:
Rust. Rotor was wet, brake pads clamped down when you parked it/hit parking brake, got stuck.
If I let my Corolla sit for a day or two when its raining, the rear pads will stick after I release the parking brake.

In your example, I'd just say it was an extreme case of this. If the pads aren't too thin you might be able to get away with just sanding them a bit and machining the rotors just enough to get rid of that crud.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Brake pads are one thing where asbestos is still legal, you really don't want to sand them.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

slothrop posted:

Has anyone had something like this happen?



2016 Madza3, electric handbrake.

I took the car through the automatic carwash on Friday afternoon, drove it home (less than 100m) and parked it. Come Monday when I tried to move it, I noticed it seemed very difficult to initially move off, as if something was chocked under the back wheels. Moved eventually, but then made awful clunking noises - which appear to be the pictured debris/brake pads rubbing.

After removing most of the debris from the rotor, it still makes noises when the brakes are applied. I haven't driven it any real distance and I'm booked in at the mechanic for new rear pads and an inspection tomorrow.

I'm at a bit of a loss as to HOW this could happen, and the roadside assist guy was just as baffled. The only thing I can think is a buildup of wax or something from the carwash which didn't have time to dry before I made it home. But to cause such damage to the pads? I really hope it hasn't hosed anything else.

Oh this all happening on my birthday, so gently caress me, Happy Birthday :toot:

Edit:// looked at this again on a big monitor (not an iPhone 12 mini) and goddamn, aint never seen this either. Sorry :-(

RIP Paul Walker fucked around with this message at 15:12 on Mar 28, 2023

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

AlmightyPants posted:

Since I've been working remote and not really driving so much anymore I got a 2008 BMW Z4 Coupe last year. I figured I'd get a small sports car before I got to be an old man who made lots of noises getting into and out of a car that's too low.

I'm not doing a ton of miles in it because, again, working remote, but one of the reasons is that the ride is too darn harsh. Like I get out and my lower back is killing me. I love the car but the whole pain part isn't the best. I'm not sure if it's the seats, which aren't the greatest, the tires, which might be run-flat, or the suspension. NY roads also aren't doing any favors. Googling around the consensus seems to be the run flats are the worst. I'm just looking for some more input from some folks who are more knowledgeable than myself if I'm missing something.

Yeah I really thought I wanted a Z4 coupe until I drove one. It was an amazing car, but the ride was just way too harsh as a daily driver for imperfect city roads and urban sprawl with speed bumps everywhere you go. And it didn't have run flats so that had nothing to do with it. Switching out the tires will help a bit but it's just a band aid, it's a legit sports car with stiff suspension that wasn't designed for lovely roads.

It would be a great track car or for an area with perfect roads like somewhere in Japan or something.

[e] look into the Miata RF, similar style but much more forgiving

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Mar 28, 2023

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

I didnt want to say it, but yeah, Miata (RF if you must).

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

slothrop posted:

I'm at a bit of a loss as to HOW this could happen

Did you get on your brakes hard on the way home and then put on the parking brake? Because that's how you "warp" rotors (you're actually changing the structure of the steel by uneven cooling). In extreme circumstances with marginal pads I could see it leading to pads depositing/sticks and breaking off pieces like that.

Either way, you need rear pads and rotors. Nothing is going to fix that rotor short of a brake lathe and literally retempering it. Rotors are too cheap for any of that to be worthwhile.

PBCrunch
Jun 17, 2002

Lawrence Phillips Always #1 to Me
I have these Lora-based sensors that are supposed to be used for leak detection, but in another vehicle I added a solid state relay between the water-sensing terminals and connected the relay to the door trigger circuit in the cars that my wife and I drive regularly. When the door opens, the Lora module tells my home automation system that a door opened. If someone has recently opened an exterior door on our house, the automation system assumes that my wife or I are getting in the car and nothing happens. If the house exterior doors have all been shut for more than 10 minutes and a car door opens, the automation system goes bananas and sends me phone notifications. This passive system seems to work pretty well for cars with good batteries.

I have a car in my driveway that sometimes (always) has a dead battery. Marauding teenagers have gotten into it a couple of times over the last couple years. I don't want to leave it locked because I don't want broken windows. Is there some way I can use the same setup from my good-battery cars to the bad-battery car? I'm pretty sure the way the factory door trigger provides ground when a door is open for whatever that is worth.

slothrop
Dec 7, 2006

Santa Alpha, Fox One... Gifts Incoming ~~~>===|>

Soiled Meat

Motronic posted:

Did you get on your brakes hard on the way home and then put on the parking brake? Because that's how you "warp" rotors (you're actually changing the structure of the steel by uneven cooling). In extreme circumstances with marginal pads I could see it leading to pads depositing/sticks and breaking off pieces like that.

Either way, you need rear pads and rotors. Nothing is going to fix that rotor short of a brake lathe and literally retempering it. Rotors are too cheap for any of that to be worthwhile.

Nope, literally drove 100 metres from the car wash to home. Makes me wonder if there is some fuckery with the electonic handbrake.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

slothrop posted:

Nope, literally drove 100 metres from the car wash to home. Makes me wonder if there is some fuckery with the electonic handbrake.

Yep, that would be my next guess/troubleshooting step. See if that electric handbrake is sticking on. Because that's an even easier way to end up with the conditions that would cause that.

It could also be stuck calipers/rust jacking holding the pads against the caliper or even a bad hose - sometimes the fail internally and turn into a check valve. But being THAT stuck is definitely an edge case in my experience.

The only thing I'd be really concerned with before firing the full parts canon at that thing is determining if the parking brake is properly releasing.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

Is there a cheap / easy way to repair the holes from a front license plate bracket? Just get some bondo and go to town?

Wrapping my car soon :toot: was debating replacing the bumper with an M-Sport one but it doesn't look cool enough to justify $600 + installation, so I think instead I might just look into "cleaning up" the stock one

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Sab669 posted:

Is there a cheap / easy way to repair the holes from a front license plate bracket? Just get some bondo and go to town?

Wrapping my car soon :toot: was debating replacing the bumper with an M-Sport one but it doesn't look cool enough to justify $600 + installation, so I think instead I might just look into "cleaning up" the stock one

You're going to spend what is likely a few thousand dollars on getting your car wrapped and want to skimp on prep work?

Most likely, and depending on exactly what damage is there, the correct answer is going to be fiberglass + the skill to apply, sand and finish it properly.

Sab669
Sep 24, 2009

After tax and shipping a new bumper is actually $1,000 (+ installation); just trying to figure out what my options are is all. I assumed taking it to a body shop to fix the holes would be pretty close to that.

I do own an airbrush and would be comfortable priming/painting it (not look that needs to look great anyways as it'd be getting covered), wasn't sure how "difficult" of a job patching 2 small holes would be. Not like I'm trying to fix a whole rusted out fender :shrug:

fridge corn
Apr 2, 2003

NO MERCY, ONLY PAIN :black101:

slothrop posted:

Nope, literally drove 100 metres from the car wash to home. Makes me wonder if there is some fuckery with the electonic handbrake.

How old were the pads? Not uncommon for pads to leave a bit of residue when parked up wet. If the pads were old and deteriorating a bit with lots of cracks in the lining I can see something happening like how you describe. Highly doubt there's anything wrong with the handbrake mechanism that would cause this. Anyway new pads and discs for you bucko.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

EasilyConfused
Nov 21, 2009


one strong toad
Hello, I know almost nothing about cars despite driving for twenty years.

My 2007 Infiniti G35 frequently needs to be jumpstarted after sitting for a week or less. It's had the battery replaced recently. I figured there was some sort of drain on the battery and brought it to the shop, but they didn't find anything.

Any thoughts?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply