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brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


You could space the bottom off the concrete slightly (1/16"?) So you don't have direct ground contact but also not enough for anyone to notice

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



Skunkduster posted:

I'm also in need of some lumber, but the lumber place I go to is nice enough to let me pick through the pile for the straight pieces since I'm only buying a few at a time. Anyway, I need to replace the trim around three garage doors. Looks pretty straightforward with just three pieces per side - 1x6, 1x2, and 2x2. The trim will be in contact with the ground (concrete) at the base. Would it be okay to use regular SPF boards and some exterior valspar primer/paint to get me by for a few years until I can get the whole house resided? I'm thinking it might not be a bad idea to seal the end grain before priming. This may be kind of an unusual approach, but I have some casting resin that is water thin when mixed and cures up rock hard in about 45 minutes. I was thinking of painting that on to the end grain to hopefully get some penetration and seal it up real good.

Seal the ends with spray-on rubberized undercoating

NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out
You could also buy pvc trim boards in those sizes.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Finally got someone out to look at my hvac system again. It leaked out all the refrigerant since the last guy came and had stopped working. So obviously a pretty bad leak. Guy said he's pretty sure it's the coil but is worried about replacing it without having to move the water heater. Gotta try and get another person out for a quote. I was talking to another company and then just didn't hear back from them.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




NomNomNom posted:

You could also buy pvc trim boards in those sizes.

That would probably be the best option, but I'm just looking for a temporary fix (3-5 years) until I have the money to put new siding and trim on my house.

I haven't don't the math, but I'm guessing that SPF lumber is cheaper, but I see there are 1/2"x4'x8' sheets of PVC available at home depot. Can that be ripped down to 6" strips, or is the core some foamy stuff like foamcore board? Might be cheaper that way.

Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 02:50 on May 5, 2023

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
We put some PVC trim around our patio sliding doors and it's been great. I don't even notice or remember that they're not wood.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Skunkduster posted:

That would probably be the best option, but I'm just looking for a temporary fix (3-5 years) until I have the money to put new siding and trim on my house.

I haven't don't the math, but I'm guessing that SPF lumber is cheaper, but I see there are 1/2"x4'x8' sheets of PVC available at home depot. Can that be ripped down to 6" strips, or is the core some foamy stuff like foamcore board? Might be cheaper that way.
If you just want to get a few years out of it, untreated spf is fine, especially if there’s a decent overhang. Prime and paint the endgrain well, that’s hugely important. Literally like the single most important thing you can do to prevent rot, even in decay resistant woods. You don’t need to get fancier than that. The suggestion to cut everything a little short so it doesn’t actually touch is a good one too, though I’d go ahead and do at least 1/4”. Nobody but you will ever notice.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

priznat posted:

Hi thread,

I'm looking to get the following done for my house (in order of potential complexity):

1) add insulation to my attic (blown cellulose, probably)
2) replace hot water tank with tankless heater
3) replace gas furnace with heat pump (and a newer gas furnace for when it gets real cold)
4) Cut a new basement entranceway thru concrete to sunken patio
5) build a deck above sunken patio and new doorway

I really have no idea how to find good contractors for the above, any tips or resources? I'm in canada, greater vancouver area. I just know I sure as poo poo don't want to do it myself :haw:

I've asked friends and neighbours for recommendations but nobody seems to have anyone they'd recommend. All of the above are way overdue and I should probably stop putting it off!

I think 1 would be its own company, 2&3 could be the same heating/plumbing company and 4&5 could hopefully be the same contractor..
:rip:
Friends and word of mouth are really the best. Once you find a quality contractor, send him beer and cookies to keep them happy. And they might be able to refer to other contractors outside of their scope.

You could ask an old codger that works part time at your local Lowes Depot. Often they're old quasi retired people that have been in the industry for years and know companies in the area. When I moved to a new city and knew nobody that's how I found a well regarded plumber and it worked out ok, but YMMV.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Why is getting in touch with contractors to get quotes so difficult? The only company I've been able to reliably get ahold of and out here is the first company I contacted that I'm pretty sure is who did the original install. And I'm still waiting on a full quote from them, all they've said is that the evaporator coil itself is $1500 but didn't give me a full quote to replace it yet. It's about to get hot here again so if I eat some extra cost I can live with it, but god drat this is annoying.

e: finally got an estimate from the one company. Around $2600 with refrigerant. Having to move the water heater adds a decent amount of labor.



There's obviously not much room there.

fknlo fucked around with this message at 18:41 on May 5, 2023

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


fknlo posted:

Why is getting in touch with contractors to get quotes so difficult? The only company I've been able to reliably get ahold of and out here is the first company I contacted that I'm pretty sure is who did the original install. And I'm still waiting on a full quote from them, all they've said is that the evaporator coil itself is $1500 but didn't give me a full quote to replace it yet. It's about to get hot here again so if I eat some extra cost I can live with it, but god drat this is annoying.
A remodeling boom started after the pandemic eased, and it hasn't stopped yet. Contractors are prioritizing the biggest and most profitable projects: they'd rather do an entire new HVAC system than repair one. I feel your pain; nobody's returning my phone calls, and it took me over a year to find a gardener. (And the job he's working on has taken even longer.)

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

I'm (in theory) picking up a gas range this afternoon from a friend; wife has been itching to replace our electric range with one since we bought the house.

Two things I'd love advice on:

The PO installed a gas hookup when he upgraded the gas service, so that's all set. But I'm assuming the (fully) gas range will want 110V and not the 220V that the electric range is using. Is an adapter like this actually acceptable, or is my gut feeling that this is a bad hack I should avoid correct, and I better just replace the receptacle and breaker?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-Gas-Range-Adapter-9042SW8801/302183109

Second thing: I think that the new range might be a touch wider than the old one (just a little, they're both nominally 30"; a photo he sent looked like it measures 29 7/8" and mine is closer to 29 3/4"), and I won't be surprised if it's just barely too wide to fit between the two sections of solid-surface countertop where it'll go. If it is (by, like, a mm or two), what would be the best approach to removing some material from the countertop to give it the clearance it needs?

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

fknlo posted:

Why is getting in touch with contractors to get quotes so difficult?

For real. Even the deck guy, who I thought was hot to trot, seems on the edge of ghosting. I must be too miserly.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Arsenic Lupin posted:

A remodeling boom started after the pandemic eased, and it hasn't stopped yet. Contractors are prioritizing the biggest and most profitable projects: they'd rather do an entire new HVAC system than repair one. I feel your pain; nobody's returning my phone calls, and it took me over a year to find a gardener. (And the job he's working on has taken even longer.)

Yeah, I'm currently removing and renovating 2 bathroom showers right now by myself because no one wants the gig, but it needs to get done so we can sell our house. We tried to find help but got ghosted repeatedly. poo poo kinda sucks, but oh well.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I always worry that calling & ‘following up’ too persistently with contractors might be counterproductive and they’ll think I’d be a high maintenance, PITA customer. I know I have definitely felt that way when a customer keeps pestering me about a job I don’t want to do and I usually wind up giving them a $fuckoff price, but no idea if other people actually feel that way or not.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Steve French posted:

I'm (in theory) picking up a gas range this afternoon from a friend; wife has been itching to replace our electric range with one since we bought the house.

Two things I'd love advice on:

The PO installed a gas hookup when he upgraded the gas service, so that's all set. But I'm assuming the (fully) gas range will want 110V and not the 220V that the electric range is using. Is an adapter like this actually acceptable, or is my gut feeling that this is a bad hack I should avoid correct, and I better just replace the receptacle and breaker?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-Gas-Range-Adapter-9042SW8801/302183109

Second thing: I think that the new range might be a touch wider than the old one (just a little, they're both nominally 30"; a photo he sent looked like it measures 29 7/8" and mine is closer to 29 3/4"), and I won't be surprised if it's just barely too wide to fit between the two sections of solid-surface countertop where it'll go. If it is (by, like, a mm or two), what would be the best approach to removing some material from the countertop to give it the clearance it needs?

I'm not sure about that adapter, but I think it's very simple to make a 240 volt to a 120 volt outlet. I'm not an electrician but I think you just have to take off one of the hot wires leading into the outlet. Our last home was like that and I think it took the electrician about 10 minutes. If you Google it you can find out how to do it seems pretty straightforward.

Also, if you use one of those adapters it's going to push out your range a bit assuming the outlet is behind it.

The range should be fairly tight for sliding in. If by chance it is too wide... Which I think is actually unlikely... That is going to depend what your counter is made out of. It would be very easy to screw up and look awful. I'd probably get a counter guy to look at it. It's pretty easy to be off by a 1/16 of an inch when you're measuring something with rounded edges with a tape measure so I'd almost bet money that it would fit.

Is the countertop narrower than the cabinets?

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


I see a number of electricians on Reddit being cool with that adapter, specifically because it has a built-in 15A fuse and is from a reputable company.

Epitope
Nov 27, 2006

Grimey Drawer

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

I always worry that calling & ‘following up’ too persistently with contractors might be counterproductive and they’ll think I’d be a high maintenance, PITA customer. I know I have definitely felt that way when a customer keeps pestering me about a job I don’t want to do and I usually wind up giving them a $fuckoff price, but no idea if other people actually feel that way or not.

Word, and I feel their side of it too, but I can't turn it off. Like, I wish I could not care about the house, stupid piece of poo poo I hope the earth swallows you, but I can't not go whole hog care taking

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

slidebite posted:

I'm not sure about that adapter, but I think it's very simple to make a 240 volt to a 120 volt outlet. I'm not an electrician but I think you just have to take off one of the hot wires leading into the outlet. Our last home was like that and I think it took the electrician about 10 minutes. If you Google it you can find out how to do it seems pretty straightforward.

Also, if you use one of those adapters it's going to push out your range a bit assuming the outlet is behind it.

The range should be fairly tight for sliding in. If by chance it is too wide... Which I think is actually unlikely... That is going to depend what your counter is made out of. It would be very easy to screw up and look awful. I'd probably get a counter guy to look at it. It's pretty easy to be off by a 1/16 of an inch when you're measuring something with rounded edges with a tape measure so I'd almost bet money that it would fit.

Is the countertop narrower than the cabinets?

Changing the outlet I’m not worried about, but my understanding is you ought to change the breaker as well.

I wouldn’t assume there is clearance for the adapter, but I’m also not expecting it to be super cramped there: there has to be space for the gas hookup as well and the adapter looks designed to minimize additional needed clearance.

The counter is solid-surface, as mentioned. Like Corian. It was installed to replace lovely tile surface, with the existing range already there, so I won’t be surprised if it was done to that width and my lovely old Kenmore range is narrower than the Viking replacing it. And yes, the counters are narrower than the cabinets there (and I am also not worried about making more space with those if necessary)

Hed
Mar 31, 2004

Fun Shoe

Steve French posted:

I'm (in theory) picking up a gas range this afternoon from a friend; wife has been itching to replace our electric range with one since we bought the house.

Two things I'd love advice on:

The PO installed a gas hookup when he upgraded the gas service, so that's all set. But I'm assuming the (fully) gas range will want 110V and not the 220V that the electric range is using. Is an adapter like this actually acceptable, or is my gut feeling that this is a bad hack I should avoid correct, and I better just replace the receptacle and breaker?

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-Gas-Range-Adapter-9042SW8801/302183109

I used this adapter recently for the same purpose and it's great, UL-listed, and I have no issues getting it from HD.

To the other posts above me, most of them (assuming oven/range combo) will be a box on the floor in the cutout area. If you have a range only / oven only it depends on when house was built. I'd slide out before to be sure.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
gently caress.

So it turns out my kitchen sink is held onto the counter by a pair of thin bolts attached to small metal tabs, and the other ends of the bolts are somehow lodged inside grooves that were carved into the underside of the granite countertop :wtc:

It has some wobble to it, it is not well-secured.

I figured this out because I noticed the caulk around the rim (the sink hangs below the countertop) was breaking loose. I scraped all that out and put a new line of caulk around it but I think this is a high priority thing to replace. I want to use a drop-in instead of one that hangs underneath, but the cutout in the countertop is some godawful nonstandard size (15.75 inches by like 28 inches, with rounded corners) so that'll be fun to find. Urgh.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
That sounds like the normal way sinks are attached.

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum

Hed posted:

I used this adapter recently for the same purpose and it's great, UL-listed, and I have no issues getting it from HD.

To the other posts above me, most of them (assuming oven/range combo) will be a box on the floor in the cutout area. If you have a range only / oven only it depends on when house was built. I'd slide out before to be sure.

I wouldn't have any issues with using that adapter from Southwire but it does require that your existing oven outlet is a 50amp 4-wire 240v setup, not all houses are going to have that for an electric range, mine for instance had a 30amp 3-wire setup originally. If it doesn't match its still an easy fix but it involves working in the breaker panel which for many people is the "call an electrician" line.

Definitely slide out your existing oven if you haven't and confirm what's there.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

If you just want to get a few years out of it, untreated spf is fine, especially if there’s a decent overhang. Prime and paint the endgrain well, that’s hugely important. Literally like the single most important thing you can do to prevent rot, even in decay resistant woods. You don’t need to get fancier than that. The suggestion to cut everything a little short so it doesn’t actually touch is a good one too, though I’d go ahead and do at least 1/4”. Nobody but you will ever notice.

I got some prices from my local lumber dealer and pressure treated is in the range of 5-10% more expensive, so that's a no brainer. Being that I'm in Minnesota, I'm a little leery of cutting things short. I get the logic of leaving a gap so that the water that will get in there will be able to flow out or evaporate. On the other hand, any water that gets in there between the months of October-April will likely freeze, build up, and expand which could lead to problems.

I've been a hobbyist woodworker on and off for over 20 years, so I understand the effects of moisture exchange in wood. I'd mentioned earlier that I was curious about using casting resin to seal the end grain and tried it last night on a piece of 2x2 SPF and a chunk of garbage particle board. Before I use it, I want to soak the treated parts in water for a couple of weeks to see if there is any moisture penetration. If not, that's what I'm going to use. Due to the cost of the casting resin, it would normally be very impractical. I bought this resin for a business deal that fell through and don't have any other use for it, so we'll see how the testing goes.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Kylaer posted:

gently caress.

So it turns out my kitchen sink is held onto the counter by a pair of thin bolts attached to small metal tabs, and the other ends of the bolts are somehow lodged inside grooves that were carved into the underside of the granite countertop :wtc:

It has some wobble to it, it is not well-secured.

I figured this out because I noticed the caulk around the rim (the sink hangs below the countertop) was breaking loose. I scraped all that out and put a new line of caulk around it but I think this is a high priority thing to replace. I want to use a drop-in instead of one that hangs underneath, but the cutout in the countertop is some godawful nonstandard size (15.75 inches by like 28 inches, with rounded corners) so that'll be fun to find. Urgh.

That is the standard way of mounting. The tabs are epoxied into the counter top. Are you able to tighten any of the screws?

Steve French
Sep 8, 2003

Elem7 posted:

I wouldn't have any issues with using that adapter from Southwire but it does require that your existing oven outlet is a 50amp 4-wire 240v setup, not all houses are going to have that for an electric range, mine for instance had a 30amp 3-wire setup originally. If it doesn't match its still an easy fix but it involves working in the breaker panel which for many people is the "call an electrician" line.

Definitely slide out your existing oven if you haven't and confirm what's there.

Yep, will for sure be sliding things out and assessing exactly what I need in terms of adapter and gas hose etc. I know without pulling it out that it's on a 50 amp circuit, but was more asking about that type of adapter in general rather than that specific one (though if that specific one works for my setup, great!)

I picked up the range today, it's strapped in the bed of the truck at the moment. Measuring it against the counter gap it's going to be very very tight if it fits, and I think it'll be likely I'll have to shave some off.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
Oh :v: The things you learn. I've never noticed a loose sink before so I never had cause to look underneath (and some places I've lived have had drop-in sinks). I'll see about tightening the bolts.

Edit: I don't have anything that can reach, my pliers won't fit. The sink does seem to be sagging in the middle more than at the edges where it's attached. I appreciate being informed that this is normal. I still want a drop-in though.

Kylaer fucked around with this message at 02:39 on May 6, 2023

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Skunkduster posted:

I got some prices from my local lumber dealer and pressure treated is in the range of 5-10% more expensive, so that's a no brainer. Being that I'm in Minnesota, I'm a little leery of cutting things short. I get the logic of leaving a gap so that the water that will get in there will be able to flow out or evaporate. On the other hand, any water that gets in there between the months of October-April will likely freeze, build up, and expand which could lead to problems.

I've been a hobbyist woodworker on and off for over 20 years, so I understand the effects of moisture exchange in wood. I'd mentioned earlier that I was curious about using casting resin to seal the end grain and tried it last night on a piece of 2x2 SPF and a chunk of garbage particle board. Before I use it, I want to soak the treated parts in water for a couple of weeks to see if there is any moisture penetration. If not, that's what I'm going to use. Due to the cost of the casting resin, it would normally be very impractical. I bought this resin for a business deal that fell through and don't have any other use for it, so we'll see how the testing goes.
I would just confirm that it is KDAT not regular pressure treated. Regular PT you have to wait a while before you can paint if that matters, and UV exposure prior to painting is a big cause of paint failure which is a big part of why people think PT wood doesn't hold paint well. In a cold climate like that, you're probably right about cutting it short. I'd try to caulk it to the concrete I guess.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



Kylaer posted:

gently caress.

So it turns out my kitchen sink is held onto the counter by a pair of thin bolts attached to small metal tabs, and the other ends of the bolts are somehow lodged inside grooves that were carved into the underside of the granite countertop :wtc:

It has some wobble to it, it is not well-secured.

I figured this out because I noticed the caulk around the rim (the sink hangs below the countertop) was breaking loose. I scraped all that out and put a new line of caulk around it but I think this is a high priority thing to replace. I want to use a drop-in instead of one that hangs underneath, but the cutout in the countertop is some godawful nonstandard size (15.75 inches by like 28 inches, with rounded corners) so that'll be fun to find. Urgh.

I think I have a quartz countertop. I have a stainless sink attached the way you describe, it's standard. Mine is screwed up, was when I bought the condo couple years ago, my inspector missed it. It's loose around the same way the way you describe yours to be.

If I wanted to fix it properly so the mounting is 100% secure, I'd probably have to re-do the threading and grooves and stuff, don't want to buy the tools or pay a pro right now. I've googled and posted here about it, no easy fix I think.

So, I tightened down the remaining working mounts best I could, and removed/re-applied the caulk. It's much more stable now and I put very heavy weight on the sink to test if it moved, pushing on it for dynamic loading, and it hasn't budged so maybe that much will work OK for you.

The way it was before, just pushing lightly on it with your hand or empty pot of any size, and the sink would noticeably flex down and move away from the mounts.

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!
There is an easy fix...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FDRTXR

I used one of these to fix an undermount sink under a granite countertop on my new house. The part that goes in the front didn't fit due to my cabinet layout, but just the two side pieces did a good job sucking the sink back up.

Inner Light
Jan 2, 2020



TacoHavoc posted:

There is an easy fix...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FDRTXR

I used one of these to fix an undermount sink under a granite countertop on my new house. The part that goes in the front didn't fit due to my cabinet layout, but just the two side pieces did a good job sucking the sink back up.

Oh yes that thing. I could buy that too but honestly just tightening and redoing caulk helped so I decided not to. There’s like 6 mounts and 1 is dead I think.

palindrome
Feb 3, 2020

If anyone is still interested in induction range chat, I was just shopping and basically decided on the Cafe single-oven over the dual-oven model. I will only ever put one thing in the oven at a time, so having two ovens seems redundant. On the other hand having two small compartment ovens does seem to have its conveniences but ultimately if it's not necessary I think I'd prefer the simpler single oven version.

e: The induction range with the big 11" magnet is more of a consideration than the oven configuration, personally.

palindrome fucked around with this message at 09:18 on May 6, 2023

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


I have found the double over super useful even if we are only cooking one baked thing since we can set one to "warm" to stash things in.

Illuminado
Mar 26, 2008

The Path Ahead is Dark
The outdoor unit is now installed.





Just one little whoopsie doodle, fucky wucky.


I don't know why I just assumed there would be enough clearance behind the unit.


Oh well, had to move it 6" to the left and it's fine. Going to have to seal and patch the holes and re-do the drywall again... :cripes:


But it's up, just need to run the coolant lines, install the indoor units, and plumb the condensate pumps / drain pipe.

palindrome
Feb 3, 2020

Keeping things warm in the second oven is a good idea that hadn't occurred to me, good call.

^^^ an exciting installation, congrats

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

TacoHavoc posted:

There is an easy fix...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075FDRTXR

I used one of these to fix an undermount sink under a granite countertop on my new house. The part that goes in the front didn't fit due to my cabinet layout, but just the two side pieces did a good job sucking the sink back up.
Oh I've never heard of those. The norm here is just to use strapping. I might buy one of those as a safety.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Got down to a nice and cool 77 degrees inside overnight :negative: Downstairs is way cooler at least and that's where everyone slept last night.

Hopefully the new condenser comes in tomorrow and we can get it in fast. Yesterday was the hottest forecast day for the next few days but it's still gonna be 90 today. My gf's family and coworkers are all apparently asking about whether we have a home warranty. Nope, I can swing repairs and feel the same about them as I do extended car warranties. No thanks.

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


My undermount sink is just glued on, I was a little surprised but I checked in other people's kitchens with similar sintered stone countertops and they have the same, so it seems to be sufficient.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

My washer and dryer are on the main level in their own room by the kitchen. The layout of it sucks and we’d like to use the room as more of a mud room and reposition the washer/dryer in the basement (one level below).

Who would I need to call to do this? I know I’d need electrical run and plumbing. Electrical should be the easy part because ideally we’d move the appliances within 5 feet of their current location, just one level below. The plumbing is the tricky part I think, because we’re on septic. I can’t easily tell which pipe the drain pipe for the washer currently runs to, but if l move the washer to the basement, it looks like the drain would be lower than the main drainage pipe that runs to the septic…it’s also on almost the opposite side of the house of the septic main drain pipe.

There’s also the dryer vent. Right now it’s only a 1’ vent hose which goes straight out of the house. Moving it downstairs would mean repositioning the exhaust and patching that part up, or using the existing hole and somehow have the vent hose come up through the flooring.

nwin fucked around with this message at 21:33 on May 7, 2023

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

If you need to ask the question then you need a general contractor so they can bring in and manage the trades required.

Good luck. The job is likely to small to be taken seriously at this current point in time.

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PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



You can get a 4" hole saw, cut between the joists, and bring it up to the existing exit with a 4" solid vent pipe.

Your big problem is lifting your waste-water to your sewer lateral. You're talking at least a couple grand for the cheapest reasonable sewer-ejection pump system and likely thousands more.

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