|
SimonSays posted:Your cassette is an MTB cassette, like all Shimano's 11-34. The 1.85mm spacer is to make it fit an 11-road hub. Oh so for future reference, Shimano's 11-34 and 11-36 12spd road cassettes do not require the 1.85mm spacer on 11/12spd HG and HG-EV freehubs...and thus can't be fitted to 10spd freehubs at all.
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 00:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 14:11 |
|
|
TobinHatesYou posted:Oh so for future reference, Shimano's 11-34 and 11-36 12spd road cassettes do not require the 1.85mm spacer on 11/12spd HG and HG-EV freehubs...and thus can't be fitted to 10spd freehubs at all. Right, my bad, I still refuse to remember a single thing about 12-speed unless it involves a 6sp freewheel
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 00:46
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:???? The rim literally has 622x21 written in the specs and it measures almost exactly 21 internally with calipers, the tape before installation is about the same width as the outside of the wheel to the point where I struggled to get it to fit inside the rim at all. That's why I'm thinking the tape moved. I got so pissed at tape I bought this: https://www.effettomariposa.eu/collections/tubeless/products/caffelatex-tubeless-strip-tubeless-rim-strip?variant=39094989979799 If you can find it local might be worth trying. It's been problem free going on two years for me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2023 01:48
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Thanks for the help guys I was going to say you could put a tube in there but I didn't want to be that mean. Anyway today as cosmic retribution I got a flat (while riding tubes) for the first time in years
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 00:11
|
|
|
TobinHatesYou posted:The real move would be to find a source for 3M 8992 or "green powder coat masking tape." This poo poo is the business. I bought a couple rolls a few years back for like  instead of overpriced branded tubeless tape on goon advice and it works so good and will last me a good loooong while
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 01:56
|
|
|
On this topic, are there such things as.. better tubes? Like we've just got some basic generic tubes in our tires right now, but are there improvements that can be made in some upgrades? Are like, tubes with sealant a thing? Or some kind of puncture resistant tubes, or any way to augment the tire to reduce the odds of a puncture? I don't see myself going tubeless anytime soon but surely there's some improvements to be had on the tube side of the spectrum.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 04:59
|
|
|
There are goo filled tubes, but if you really want to shell out money you can get ultra light weight tubes that are 1/3rd as heavy as normal. ($40 each lol)
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 05:02
|
|
|
You can also get puncture resistant tape stuff you line the inside of the tyre with but it evidently makes your tires roll slower You can also get solid rubber tires
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 05:04
|
|
|
Back in my day there were DH tubes that were huge thick pieces of poo poo that cost a million dollars and would deaden your wheel completely on top of weighing as much as a tire.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 05:09
|
|
|
Mederlock posted:On this topic, are there such things as.. better tubes? Like we've just got some basic generic tubes in our tires right now, but are there improvements that can be made in some upgrades? Are like, tubes with sealant a thing? Or some kind of puncture resistant tubes, or any way to augment the tire to reduce the odds of a puncture? I don't see myself going tubeless anytime soon but surely there's some improvements to be had on the tube side of the spectrum. The only real tube options outside of traditional butyl tubes are latex tubes - which reduce rolling resistence but aren't really much more puncture resistant - and TPU tubes - which are made of a sort of plastic and can pack down tightly but may or may not be more puncture resistant depending on who you ask. Personally, I stick with what I know and use the old fashioned tubes. They aren't puncture proof but they're cheaper than the alternatives and easy to patch.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 05:12
|
|
|
Weembles posted:The only real tube options outside of traditional butyl tubes are latex tubes - which reduce rolling resistence but aren't really much more puncture resistant - and TPU tubes - which are made of a sort of plastic and can pack down tightly but may or may not be more puncture resistant depending on who you ask. I just use whatever 'enduro tubes' are sold at the base of Whistler, I'm not sure what the brand is but they seem fine. I've never flatted one without asking for it by doing something dumb like riding a non-dh casing tire in the bike park.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 05:18
|
|
|
 SRAM double-tap brifter teardown, clean and re-grease, Surprisingly easy to do, not that much going on in there that you can service really as all of the parts are pinned/riveted together. The front derailleur one was more of a pain in the arse to get back together than the rear but still not that hard.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 06:37
|
|
|
I kept getting flats on my commuter with 27" wheels and limited options for tires so I got a thorn resistant tube for the rear wheel and no more flats. It's my commuter, so I don't care if it's heavy and slow as hell as long as I don't have to change a flat (it's heavy and slow as hell).
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 15:40
|
|
|
Normal tubes with removable valves (schwalbe at least) can also have sealant inserted to them. Results may vary but likely it's not gonna be worse.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 16:19
|
|
|
Mederlock posted:On this topic, are there such things as.. better tubes? Like we've just got some basic generic tubes in our tires right now, but are there improvements that can be made in some upgrades? Are like, tubes with sealant a thing? Or some kind of puncture resistant tubes, or any way to augment the tire to reduce the odds of a puncture? I don't see myself going tubeless anytime soon but surely there's some improvements to be had on the tube side of the spectrum. I've got some of those Ridenow TPU tubes getting shipped to me that weightweenies seems to love. 36 grams and ~$20 bucks for 4 tubes. We'll see how well they work!
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 22:24
|
|
|
Mederlock posted:On this topic, are there such things as.. better tubes? Like we've just got some basic generic tubes in our tires right now, but are there improvements that can be made in some upgrades? Are like, tubes with sealant a thing? Or some kind of puncture resistant tubes, or any way to augment the tire to reduce the odds of a puncture? I don't see myself going tubeless anytime soon but surely there's some improvements to be had on the tube side of the spectrum. Why go with different tubes rather than get tires with puncture resistance? If you're not bothered about the rolling quality too much, Marathon Plus are damned hard to puncture.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 22:35
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I just use whatever 'enduro tubes' are sold at the base of Whistler, I'm not sure what the brand is but they seem fine. I've never flatted one without asking for it by doing something dumb like riding a non-dh casing tire in the bike park. Oh dope, this seems like the best compromise. I don't really care about going an extra 1-3 km/hr, but having something a bit beefier without being $LBS priced or dealing with goo in the tube seems like a good compromise. SimonSays posted:Why go with different tubes rather than get tires with puncture resistance? If you're not bothered about the rolling quality too much, Marathon Plus are damned hard to puncture. For sure that's the best place to start, but as I'm on old 27" rims, my options for offroad-ish 3-season gravel capable tires with puncture resistance are limited. Once we transition to 700C we'll have more options on that front. I ended up with the Kenda K161 Kross Cyclo and they've been flat free for the couple hundred KM's we've collectively put on them on some pretty rough trails so far.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2023 22:50
|
|
|
TobinHatesYou posted:Poorly set b-gap could also make shifting suck. It was this  , somehow the shifting worked OK but with a really incorrect b-gap (it was at ~18mm instead of 11mm), until it didn't. Maybe I used the max 36t side of the tool not the XPLR one, not sure how I got it so far off otherwise  . Anyway shifting seems to work perfectly across the whole cassette now. I ordered a spare hanger too since you never know when it might be handy.
|
|
#
?
Jul 22, 2023 10:13
|
|
|
I'm building my fist road bike with disc brakes and the last thing I have not ordered are rotors. Any opinions on 140 vs 160?
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2023 16:14
|
|
|
I don't have any personal experience with rotors but the reasonably well-designed tests I've seen people do on YouTube pretty consistently show something like 15% better braking with the larger rotor. Makes sense, there's more leverage(? I think that'd be the term) relative to the center of the axle with a larger diameter rotor, and the heat generated is spread out over a larger area. Your front brakes are by far the most important ones, it seems a lot of folks are going 160mm front and 140mm rear. Some people even run 180's up front but that seems to be more of a DH mountain bike thing and again I think it's more about the improved heat dissipation mitigating brake fade.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2023 16:36
|
|
|
One theory is that putting a smaller rotor in the back gives you less leverage, and then when you squeeze equally hard on both levers the back won't lock up, giving you better braking. Other people claim having a larger rotor in back lets you drag it, while saving the front brake for specific hard braking, and the added cooling in the rear supports that use case. A third group say that hydraulic discs are so good that it basically doesn't matter. Me? I say bigger looks cooler so add an adapter and go with 180s.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2023 16:54
|
|
|
Withnail posted:I'm building my fist road bike with disc brakes and the last thing I have not ordered are rotors. 160 brake better and overheat less, I don’t see any argument for 140mm other than weight weenie-ism. You can go for 140mm on the back if you want, but it looks wrong to me.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2023 17:01
|
|
|
There’s really only upside to 160 over 140, except for the very small weight penalty.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2023 19:09
|
|
|
Guinness posted:There’s really only upside to 160 over 140, except for the very small weight penalty. You forgot the even smaller aero penalty* *maybe the aero difference is more significant
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2023 19:15
|
|
|
Withnail posted:I'm building my fist road bike with disc brakes and the last thing I have not ordered are rotors. It won't matter one bit. I am 200 fat rear end pounds and have no trouble with 140. But in hindsight I should have gone 160 because that is what most people use. Picture this scene. You drive to a friend's house with your 140 equipped road bike for a planned 5 hour ride, only to discover that your rim is cracked upon arrival. If you had 160, you could just swap in one of your friend's extra wheels. But no.......... You have to be a minimalist and save the gram. Begin the process of swapping your 140 onto his extra wheel, only to realize that that you are centerlock and his is a bolt on. No problem, Let's just flip the wedge on my bike to accept a 160. And that is when you strip out one of the bolts that hold the caliper to the fork. Don't ask how I know this.
|
|
#
?
Jul 24, 2023 22:26
|
|
|
Not a roadie but also probably depends where you ride. If you're insane and do the mountain climbs and then long descents you really need the larger rotor for heat dissipation.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 00:06
|
|
|
Are tubeless conversions using split tubes garbage for babies? Should I use tape?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 11:43
|
|
|
Salt Fish posted:Me? I say bigger looks cooler so add an adapter and go with 180s. I'd go 203 front if I could but I don't think anyone makes touring forks that can handle the brake stress, at least the last time I checked. 180 front and back will have to do for now with 120kg of bike, rider and gear. I wonder if anyone makes a dual-disc fork and hub combo to help with the heat by allowing you to alternate which rotor is in use. Would probably handle and feel weird as hell, and I'm not sure it'd even help all that much with dissipation being so close together and thermally connected.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 11:50
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:Are tubeless conversions using split tubes garbage for babies? Yes and yes. It's cheap, why risk leaks/hassle?
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 15:07
|
|
|
Had my first flat tire a week ago on my street bike. Replaced the tube and hit it with that compressed air metal tube thing that I keep in the bag. Got home fine. The next day, the tire was flat but I assume that's because of whatever weird compressed air was in it and is probably temporary. After a flat, is it normal to just need a new tube or am I gonna need a new tire as well? The tires have about 2200 miles on them.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 16:24
|
|
|
You almost 100% for sure have shrapnel in your tire that re-punctured the new tube. Did you feel for sharp spots on the inside when you pulled the old tube? The other option is you might have underinflated the new tube to limp home and got a pinch flat. Those can leave characteristic snake-bite marks with two holes. Co2 should leak out of a tire slower than air because its more 50% more dense IIRC
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 16:28
|
|
|
Salt Fish posted:Co2 should leak out of a tire slower than air because its more 50% more dense IIRC mystes fucked around with this message at 16:31 on Jul 25, 2023 |
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 16:28
|
|
|
Salt Fish posted:You almost 100% for sure have shrapnel in your tire that re-punctured the new tube. Did you feel for sharp spots on the inside when you pulled the old tube? I'll take the tire off again and peek at the tube. I didn't check for shrapnel. I did notice a couple punctures on the tire itself though as I was replacing the tube. It was my first time replacing a tube on the side of the road so I could have done something wrong and pinched it. Thanks for the tips!
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 16:32
|
|
|
Huh apparently Co2 is specifically soluble in rubber ( ), so it is a special case where density and molecule size doesn't determine the diffusion rate. https://www.linkedin.com/pulse/does-co2-leak-out-latex-inner-tube-faster-than-air-mark-barrilleaux Congrats on your freshly carbonated tires I guess. edit: here's a cool video about keeping gases inside membranes that I really like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjiP8QIPews
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 16:34
|
|
|
poemdexter posted:I did notice a couple punctures on the tire itself though as I was replacing the tube. In some cases, a sharp bit can wedge into one of those cuts and slowly worm its way to the inside and threaten the tube. You can push out the carcass from the inside to try to expand the cut and see if there’s debris inside. And anything that’s got daylight should be booted to protect the tube.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 17:52
|
|
|
kimbo305 posted:In some cases, a sharp bit can wedge into one of those cuts and slowly worm its way to the inside and threaten the tube. You can push out the carcass from the inside to try to expand the cut and see if there’s debris inside. I get that sometimes with thorns. They work their way into the tire but don't poke out enough to be detected unless the tire is flexed just right. Flexing the tire like you describe helps a lot. Feeling along the inside in addition to looking is great too. Some of the little tire gremlins that cause leaks like that can be tiny. Also, getting into the habit on patching tires instead of always using new ones helped me to figure out if I'm getting a puncture in the same place which can indicate a hidden sharp bit in the tire.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 18:17
|
|
|
Coxswain Balls posted:I wonder if anyone makes a dual-disc fork and hub combo to help with the heat by allowing you to alternate which rotor is in use. Would probably handle and feel weird as hell, and I'm not sure it'd even help all that much with dissipation being so close together and thermally connected.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 18:39
|
|
|
Going to get some Juin tech cable-actuated hydraulic brake calipers for my gravel bike today (similar to TRP HY/RD), they seem to be pretty well regarded and are cheaper than the alternatives. Also got some jagwire compressionless cable housing to go with it, it's an old bike so not worth upgrading the shifters to full hydraulic but this should apparently be the next best thing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 25, 2023 21:42
|
|
|
And speak of the devil, the brakes arrived today and they look pretty sweet (got gold to match the yellow accents on the frame). First impressions are they seem like they mean business, I've hooked them up using jagwire compressionless brake housing and they feel pretty solid although still not as good as a full hydro setup. I haven't finished the bike yet though so I haven't ridden them yet.  I also had to service my pedals as there was some play in one and they were spinning a bit too freely. I don't have the proper shimano lockring tool for their pedals but I found a 3D print file for one online and so I printed it. The printed tool works perfectly! I guess that's to be expected because the correct tool is also made of plastic. Pretty easy to teardown and regrease these SPD pedals and now they're back to feeling like new again with no play (I adjusted the cup-and-cone type open bearings).  
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 07:07
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 14:11 |
|
|
Platystemon posted:Are tubeless conversions using split tubes garbage for babies? This is apparently the original way it was done, before anyone even sold tubeless presta valves. It was considered obsolete before I ever set up a tubeless tire so I’ve never tried it
|
|
#
?
Jul 26, 2023 15:18
|
|
