Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
blugu64
Jul 17, 2006

Do you realize that fluoridation is the most monstrously conceived and dangerous communist plot we have ever had to face?

mewse posted:

Get a Kinesis Advantage

Advantage2

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slurps Mad Rips
Jan 25, 2009

Bwaltow!



mewse posted:

Anyone try Kailh box navy or jade yet?

Iíve been using Box Navy for the past few months on a K-Type with SA Penumbra R2 set and theyíre wonderful. Really tactile and crisp, thereís almost no ping on the upstroke, even with SA profile keycaps. I had been using GMK but the spherical shape of the SA caps feel really great with the tactility. I prefer the box navies to anything else Iíve ever used, Model M and Model F included.

Going to be throwing them into a custom build kit I got a little while ago called the Camp C225 and Iím excited for the final result.

mewse
May 2, 2006




Slurps Mad Rips posted:

Iíve been using Box Navy for the past few months on a K-Type with SA Penumbra R2 set and theyíre wonderful. Really tactile and crisp, thereís almost no ping on the upstroke, even with SA profile keycaps. I had been using GMK but the spherical shape of the SA caps feel really great with the tactility. I prefer the box navies to anything else Iíve ever used, Model M and Model F included.

Going to be throwing them into a custom build kit I got a little while ago called the Camp C225 and Iím excited for the final result.

Do the springs feel very stiff? Apparently Jades have trouble with the upstroke because of the relatively weak spring.

Megalixir
Nov 10, 2007

Vanillaware ltd.


ColHannibal posted:

The colors match your photo and your photo is of a wasd keyboard.

Already tried that, as soon as you choose the VIM layout (which is what I want with that colorway), it overrides the colors. Anyway, I got an email back from them saying to just make an order referencing the video that keyboard is in and they'll make it.

Slurps Mad Rips
Jan 25, 2009

Bwaltow!



mewse posted:

Do the springs feel very stiff? Apparently Jades have trouble with the upstroke because of the relatively weak spring.

No, the Navies don't suffer from the upstroke issue that the Jade's do, as they designed them with the click bar in mind. The jades were designed after the navies just to see if it would work.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT



TheFluff posted:

If all you've ever tried is Cherry MX, it's hard to explain what you're missing out on - orange Alps are just loving amazing

IMHO, the difference between cherry MX and alps is as great as the difference between rubber dome and cherry MX. I don't understand why cherry is the standard, alps / matias switches are just so unbelievably superior in every way.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003



Dr. Fishopolis posted:

IMHO, the difference between cherry MX and alps is as great as the difference between rubber dome and cherry MX. I don't understand why cherry is the standard, alps / matias switches are just so unbelievably superior in every way.
Can you get a modern TKL with a brown equivalent switch set?

mewse
May 2, 2006




evil_bunnY posted:

Can you get a modern TKL with a brown equivalent switch set?

I've had my eye on a kbparadise v80, mechanicalkeyboards.com has them with all kinds of options.

Arpanets
Feb 27, 2012



Thinking about a Tada or Saber, so the real question is Zealios or MODs?

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

MOD-M's are scratchy.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT



mewse posted:

I've had my eye on a kbparadise v80, mechanicalkeyboards.com has them with all kinds of options.

Yep, that or the matias mini series, though that's more like a 75%. I love that layout, I just wish they weren't so ugly.

You can even get keycap sets for reasonable prices now, which absolutely was not the case 5 years ago and brings a small tear to my eye. Still no fancy DSA / SA stuff though unless you wait for group buys.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!






Sockser posted:

I kickstarted a Das Keyboard 5Q two years ago and I've finally made peace with the fact that I'll either never get it or when it shows up it'll be basically unusable, and I'm really really tired of working on this $20 amazon membrane keyboard.

I'm a stupid rear end in a top hat and I love putting lights in everything, so I'm looking for a controllable LED keyboard, with either browns or blues. So far I'm seeing the Ducky Shine 6 and the Corsair K95 look like they fit my needs. What else is out there in the world of controllable RGB board that aren't awful?

HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

The GMMK is solidly not-awful, and in addition to several baked-in lighting modes and animations has per-switch RGB control with their fairly intuitive software. It can also hot-swap the switches without soldering in case you find yourself diving down the rabbit hole of MX-style switches mike sickler is the one who was promised and may he usher in a new kingdom under the novelkeys banner


HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009

Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.




What switches did you end up going with?

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!






Gateron blues. The clacking is a little bit "lighter"?? than I'd like, but that may be due to the keycaps being cheap chinese trash. Like the clickfeel is good, the noise is just a bit more high pitched than I'm used to from mechanical keyboards

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

Gateron Blues have a higher pitch click. Cherry Blues have this crunchy unsatisfying click. Outemu Blue are like the Cherry's but better sounding. The next step up would be Kailh click bars, but it's a different type of click.

Keycaps make a difference too, either through the taller profile or if it's thicker plastic. I still think the best are SA profile since it amplifies it a bit, though Cherry profile sounds pretty good too.

HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009

Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

Sockser posted:

Gateron blues. The clacking is a little bit "lighter"?? than I'd like, but that may be due to the keycaps being cheap chinese trash. Like the clickfeel is good, the noise is just a bit more high pitched than I'm used to from mechanical keyboards

Like Constellation I referred to above, you might be interested in the NovelKeys x Kailh BOX Navy Thick Click switches. You'll need to buy 11 of the linked product (sold in packs of 10 switches each) to replace all the switches on your keyboard. The sound of these switches are significantly lower pitched than Cherry MX Blues, and your Gaterons sound like they're even higher than Cherrys.

The keeb weeb community almost universally loves these switches, so it might be a good buy for you too.

Fats
Oct 13, 2006

What I cannot create, I do not understand

Fun Shoe

Megalixir posted:

When did Leopold start making FC660Ms with unique PBT colorways in MX Clear? I liked my FC660M with MX Reds (now with GMK Plum) a lot, especially the silenced padding they use, so I ordered another.



Just spent way too much on the TKL version of this, also with MX clears. I've never had a fancy keyboard, so naturally my first one was a weirdly esoteric model I had to order from some dude in South Korea.

Koskun
Apr 20, 2004
I worship the ground NinjaPablo walks on

So I bit the bullet and picked up a used Corsair K70 Gaming version (just red LED's) off ebay for 20 bucks.

Much to my relief, all the keys and switches are in great condition. Only physical issue is one of the stabilizer receivers for the spacebar isn't there, so it catches once in a while. A bit of an actual annoyance, but I'm not sure if it is a part I can find/order to replace. It almost looks like I'd have to take apart the whole keyboard to replace it from the backside.

There are two other issues, but they are not something I'd consider major. The first is the LED's under the keys don't turn on at all. I can go through the 4 phases using the button (dim settings and off), but it only lights up the media keys. I can push the keyboard button, even put it in programming mode, but none of the keys themselves light up.

Related maybe, CUE won't detect it, even though Win10 detected and identified it correctly. I've tried a couple of different USB ports, and even without the passthrough, still nada.

Any suggestions and/or recommendations to help solve these issues?


As my first mechanical, I have to say I REALLY like the responsiveness of the thing. It has Cherry Blues I believe (judging by the stem color). I wouldn't say it is a total night and day difference from what I was using, but it's 99% of the way there to be honest.

pgroce
Oct 24, 2002


Koskun posted:

Any suggestions and/or recommendations to help solve these issues?

Donít know about the other stuff, but you can order stabilizers online for cheap-ish. (Youíll probably pay more for shipping than the part.)

Looks like the K70 has Costar stabilizers, hereís a link to a place that sells them (which Iíve never used, fwiw): http://www.switchtop.com/product/co...-keycap-inserts (You should be able to find more sources by Googling Costar Stabilizer.)

Costars are allegedly fussier to replace than Cherry stabilizers (Iíve only replaced Cherries), but you can probably find YouTube videos that show you how, maybe even on the K70 in particular. In fact, Iíd start there, before you even buy any, just to know what youíre getting into. (I doubt itís anything too tricky though.)

Worst case, you gently caress up the whole thing and youíre out $20 plus a <$10 part and shipping. But that would be pretty epic loving up. Have fun and get rid of that annoying unstabilized space bar.

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

The K70 has Cherry plate mount stabilizers actually.

Not sure what exactly is broken on your stabs, so depending on what it is, you may not have to desolder. If you do need to desolder though, then it's a pain in the rear end as you pretty much have to break a couple of plastic pieces and pull the logo off on a K70 to get to the underside of the PCB.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!



Koskun posted:

So I bit the bullet and picked up a used Corsair K70 Gaming version (just red LED's) off ebay for 20 bucks.

Much to my relief, all the keys and switches are in great condition. Only physical issue is one of the stabilizer receivers for the spacebar isn't there, so it catches once in a while. A bit of an actual annoyance, but I'm not sure if it is a part I can find/order to replace. It almost looks like I'd have to take apart the whole keyboard to replace it from the backside.

There are two other issues, but they are not something I'd consider major. The first is the LED's under the keys don't turn on at all. I can go through the 4 phases using the button (dim settings and off), but it only lights up the media keys. I can push the keyboard button, even put it in programming mode, but none of the keys themselves light up.

Related maybe, CUE won't detect it, even though Win10 detected and identified it correctly. I've tried a couple of different USB ports, and even without the passthrough, still nada.

Any suggestions and/or recommendations to help solve these issues?


As my first mechanical, I have to say I REALLY like the responsiveness of the thing. It has Cherry Blues I believe (judging by the stem color). I wouldn't say it is a total night and day difference from what I was using, but it's 99% of the way there to be honest.

Not sure about the lighting but if these parts match what's under your space bar I've gotten stabilizers from: http://www.wasdkeyboards.com/index....oard-parts.html

I got an almost new $36 noppoo choc mini because one of the stabilizers was broken and I guess they didn't have 50c + s/h to get a replacement themselves.

Koskun
Apr 20, 2004
I worship the ground NinjaPablo walks on

Here is a pic of what is actually broke. It isn't in the spacebar keycap, it's on the board itself:

HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009

Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

Yup, the stabilizer stem is somehow missing from that housing on the right. Replacing it unfortunately will require disassembly of the keyboard and I think desoldering the switch.

mewse
May 2, 2006




HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

Yup, the stabilizer stem is somehow missing from that housing on the right. Replacing it unfortunately will require disassembly of the keyboard and I think desoldering the switch.

It shouldn't require messing with the switch. There are plate mounted and pcb mounted stabs, I can't tell what those are from the photo.

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

mewse posted:

It shouldn't require messing with the switch. There are plate mounted and pcb mounted stabs, I can't tell what those are from the photo.

They're Cherry plate mounted stabs. You can MAYBE pop off the two stab feet, pop out the stab bar, insert the missing right stem and pop the stabilizer bars back again in place. But it will be very difficult as you need to loop it through the stab legs, through the stab stem and somehow lock the whole thing in.

If that fails, the easiest thing (but most destructive) to do here is to open up the board, desolder the spacebar switch so you can pop off both stabs from the top without the switch getting in the way of the stabilizer bar and pop the whole thing back on there.

Of course before all this, you'd need to buy Cherry plate mount stabs, so it should cost you like $2-$3.

Koskun
Apr 20, 2004
I worship the ground NinjaPablo walks on

Where would be the best place to get a replacement? I found a site mehkee.com, out of stock on the plate mount, and never heard of em.

I'm guessing to get to it from the underside, I have to take all the caps off and each and every one of those screws as well?

Constellation I
Apr 3, 2005
I'm a sucker, a little fucker.

NovelKeys has Cherry plate mount stabs available for a 7u spacebar. Your board has a 6.5u spacebar, but it shouldn't matter because you'll just be using the stabilizer feet and stem, and you'll be re-using the bar. Make sure to choose Plate Mount.

https://novelkeys.xyz/products/cher...t=3747938861096

As for disassembly... You might have a bad time. https://codesandbolts.com/corsair-k70-rgb-spill-guide/

When you receive the stabilizers, they usually come disassembled. If they come assembled though, make sure to disassemble and reassemble it once again. Then you'll know what you need to do to lock everything in place. From there, you can judge if you're able to do all of that just from the top or if you need to do get to it from under the PCB (which is likely).

Koskun
Apr 20, 2004
I worship the ground NinjaPablo walks on

Appreciate all the help and information everyone.

Looking at the thing, I MAY be able to slip it out without taking apart the keyboard, but don't want to push it too much at all. We'll see when I get it.

Besides, taking it apart might not be the worse thing, as if I am really lucky I can maybe see why the keys don't light up.

Nondescript Van
May 2, 2007

Gats N Party Hats


I've had to install pcb mount stabs after i soldered all the switches. You probably will not be able to bend the plate and pcb enough to slide that one out and a new one in without unsoldering the few switches around each stab to get enough flex to make that happen. Keep in mind the stabilizer part on the pcb needs to be lifted up off of it.

It's a pain in the rear end but it can be done.

You might be able to push the bar out of the housing and put in a new stem with the legs clipped off through the top then slide the bar back in but I've never done that.

Brownie
Jul 21, 2007
The Croatian Sensation

I just built a tada68 (with Kailh browns, very nice) over the weekend and hosed up by soldering before I had clipped in the switches and desoldering as a huge pain. But I sort of realized it's easier if you have a huge glob of liquid solder, so it is doable.

Arpanets
Feb 27, 2012



Bought some BKE Redux Extremes to replace the domes on a RF87U variable that's collecting dust, currently. Anyone have experience with these?

Techokami
Nov 12, 2007

For use only on NTSC Genesis Systems.


When doing my desktop computer refresh, I took things in a different direction for the keyboard. I got an Apple Extended Keyboard II, which has the same layout as a regular PC keyboard but with nice Alps White Dampened switches. To go from ADB to USB, I used this guide and this repo as a guide and created an adapter with $3 in parts from Digikey and a Teensy 2.0. The creator of the software used on said Teensy makes pre-made adapters for $35, which is your best non-DIY bet as all the older ADB to USB adapters that came around after Apple switched to USB with the iMac are now stupid rare and hella expensive.

The Postman
May 12, 2007



In the market for my first mechanical keyboard and figured I'd ask for a general recommendation before I went straight for something from the Quick Picks list. I definitely want to go full size and I'm leaning towards the WASD.

Is this still a pretty solid starter purchase or should I consider any other options more?

HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009

Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

A full-size WASD is probably fine, but is there anything else you're looking for in a mechanical keyboard?

What will you use it for? Where will you primarily use it? Do you know if you want clicky, tactile, or linear?

Feel free to answer these questions with more questions. Hopefully this thread's denizens can help you figure out what might work best for your first

HappyCapybaraFamily fucked around with this message at 19:58 on Mar 24, 2018

The Postman
May 12, 2007



HappyCapybaraFamily posted:

A full-size WASD is probably fine, but is there anything else you're looking for in a mechanical keyboard?

What will you use it for? Where will you primarily use it? Do you know if you want clicky, tactile, or linear?

Feel free to answer these questions with more questions. Hopefully this thread's denizens can help you figure out what might work best for your first

I'll primarily use it at my desk at home for typing documents, occasional coding, and some gaming. From reading the thread, I think I want something tactile. Are those little switch testers a good idea before going all in on a keyboard?

Pumprag
Jan 29, 2013



The Postman posted:

I'll primarily use it at my desk at home for typing documents, occasional coding, and some gaming. From reading the thread, I think I want something tactile. Are those little switch testers a good idea before going all in on a keyboard?

Not really because you can't actually type on them.

HappyCapybaraFamily
Sep 16, 2009

Roger Baolong Thunder Dragon has been fascinated by this sophisticated and scientifically beautiful industry since childhood, and has shown his talent in the design and manufacture of watches.

The Postman posted:

I'll primarily use it at my desk at home for typing documents, occasional coding, and some gaming. From reading the thread, I think I want something tactile. Are those little switch testers a good idea before going all in on a keyboard?

I am a tactile fan myself, and I am finding excuses to type more at work just for the fun of typing. Yeah, I'm weird like that, but what I mean to say is that I think tactile switches are great for document typing and coding for sure. They will probably neither help nor hinder your gaming performance. Don't listen to all the marketing/gamerboi hype about "gaming" keyboards.

If you can stand the noise enjoy audible feedback and either have housemates who don't mind the noise or don't have housemates at all, clicky switches are also well regarded. I've never used them myself, though, so I can't really make any recommendation for those.

As for switch testers, it might be worthwhile to you to find out if you actually like clicky or linear switches better. If you do get one, first make sure you get a tester with keycaps to get a better feel for an actual typing experience. Then, test each switch with each finger you intend to use while typing (which ideally should be nine of your ten fingers), and press the switches with different levels of strength and speed of repetition. A tester won't ever be like typing on an actual keyboard, but it could help you get an idea of what you like in a switch without splashing out a lot of dough.

If you're the social type and can tolerate the inherent risks in meeting internet strangers, you could go to a mechanical keyboard meetup in your area. r/MechanicalKeyboards has a wiki page of upcoming meetups, and geekhack has a forum dedicated to meetups as well. I've never been to one, but from others' experiences it seems like a fun and safe way to actually feel full keyboards and see some wild stuff in this hobby. Nothing beats the real deal.

Anyway, to summarize this wall of text, a full-size WASD with Cherry MX Browns or Clears would be a perfectly fine starting point. Actually, you might be interested in their CODE Keyboard with Cherry MX Clears as well.

Oops, my big dumb wall of text continues. You might also look at the Max Keyboard Nighthawk Pro X, available with Cherry MX Browns. It also comes with RGB backlighting if you decide you want that, plus it has a 2-port USB 2.0 hub and programmable macro capability, which neither the WASD or CODE seem to have.

gnoma
Feb 7, 2005

These poles made from wood, and the crossarms from iron.

Corsair k70 Vengeance died after a few years. Want to replace with something more durable/reliable. Not looking for programmable or customization or RGB. $150-ish or less.

Narrowed down to these 3: (although might go 87 key instead)
Ducky One 2
Varmilo VA108m
WASD Code

Is making the $40 price jump from the Ducky to one of the other two going to pay off in terms of build quality?

Googling shows the common knocks for each are bad LEDs for Ducky (my k70 had heavy led failure which I didn't mind much), ping noise for Varmilo (not sure how much it would bother me), and ABS caps for the WASD (k70 had ABS which seemed ok). If none of those are deal breakers does it just come down to aesthetics?

G-Prime
Apr 30, 2003

Baby, when it's love,
if it's not rough it isn't fun.


Anybody have thoughts on heavy-ish linears with a transparent housing? Ended up buying a Massdrop CTRL (because, you know, I totally need it when I also have a K-Type, but I digress), and I'm trying to decide what switches to put in it. My K-Type has reds, which are too light. My Pok3r has blacks, which are nice, but just not quite as heavy as I want. On the K-Type, I'm thinking about just replacing the springs individually in every switch, but the CTRL is shipping without switches entirely.

Current frontrunner looks like Tealios, but apparently they're pretty wobbly. I could buy RGB Reds and spring swap all of them just like the K-Type, I suppose, but I figured I'd put out feelers and see if anybody else had suggestions.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Slurps Mad Rips
Jan 25, 2009

Bwaltow!



G-Prime posted:

Anybody have thoughts on heavy-ish linears with a transparent housing? Ended up buying a Massdrop CTRL (because, you know, I totally need it when I also have a K-Type, but I digress), and I'm trying to decide what switches to put in it. My K-Type has reds, which are too light. My Pok3r has blacks, which are nice, but just not quite as heavy as I want. On the K-Type, I'm thinking about just replacing the springs individually in every switch, but the CTRL is shipping without switches entirely.

Current frontrunner looks like Tealios, but apparently they're pretty wobbly. I could buy RGB Reds and spring swap all of them just like the K-Type, I suppose, but I figured I'd put out feelers and see if anybody else had suggestions.

Take a look at novelkeysí yellow box switches. Heavier than blacks, top of the housing is clear (more than enough light makes it through with the box switches. I use navy boxes on a K-Type at the moment), and very little wobble from what Iíve experienced with the box switches.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply