|
Pryor on Fire posted:You have to pay capital gains taxes at the point you sell the fund, or rather just account for that gain next tax year. This is a good thing, it means you made money and you shouldn't try to avoid it just to hang around in a lovely high fee fund. Ok thanks, that's what I figured, but wanted to make sure. Also, when I go to sell it on Vanguard I'm seeing a new fee item that I've never seen before "Redemption fee: 2% if held < 7 days". I've held it for longer than 7 days, does this just show by default?
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 17:26
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 15:23 |
|
|
Is there any advantage to putting money into my roth IRA for 2016 vs 2017? Barring some huge and unlikely adjustment in my income, there's no way I'll hit the max contributions for 2017.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 17:42
|
|
|
BAE OF PIGS posted:Is there any advantage to putting money into my roth IRA for 2016 vs 2017? Barring some huge and unlikely adjustment in my income, there's no way I'll hit the max contributions for 2017. Put it in for 2016 until you can't (April 15 or so) just in case. The only advantage is leaving the option for more future contribution open.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 17:58
|
|
|
hbf posted:Ok thanks, that's what I figured, but wanted to make sure. Also, when I go to sell it on Vanguard I'm seeing a new fee item that I've never seen before "Redemption fee: 2% if held < 7 days". I've held it for longer than 7 days, does this just show by default? It does. It is just a short term redemption fee. If you have held it over the allotted timeframe, you have nothing to worry about.
|
|
#
?
Jan 7, 2017 18:45
|
|
|
I'm picking up a secured credit card from Walgreens to unfuck my score so I can qualify for an actual credit card / loans. Any recommendations?
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 06:53
|
|
|
havent heard a peep posted:I'm picking up a secured credit card from Walgreens to unfuck my score so I can qualify for an actual credit card / loans. Any recommendations? I would check local credit unions. Most "build your credit" credit cards will naturally suck because you don't have credit. Credit unions are at least decently customer friendly about it. Never leave an outstanding balance in a credit card. Interest isn't worth it.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 10:44
|
|
|
havent heard a peep posted:I'm picking up a secured credit card from Walgreens to unfuck my score so I can qualify for an actual credit card / loans. Any recommendations? Are you looking at secured cards, or prepaid cards? The cards you can buy at a drugstore or grocery store are almost always prepaid. These cards are basically debit cards tied to a quasi-checking "reloadable" account, typically with horrifying fees and policies that wouldn't be legal if it was in fact a checking account. Prepaid cards extend no credit, do not report to credit bureaus, and do absolutely nothing to help build your credit history. Never use prepaid cards if you can help it. Simple rule of thumb: if you're required to put money on a card before you use it, and the balance goes down on use, then it's a prepaid card. If you have to put a deposit down, but you get a bill and pay the balance after use, then it's a secured card. Also - avoid store cards and basically any other financial-ish product sold to you at retail. Walgreens is a drug store, not a financial institution, and they're marketing based on convenience rather than good financial options. As for actually good options, besides credit unions and any bank you've already got a relationship with, the Discover secured card is one of the better options out there. Not everybody takes Discover, but it's accepted enough places that you can get a small charge on the card once or twice a month. When you pay it off, that's enough to check the "payment made on time this month" box for the credit bureaus. Approval odds are supposed to be pretty good, and they'll even give you your FICO score on your statement.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 15:55
|
|
|
I've been using Mint for 6 years now, but haven't figured out a good way to represent Cash Back (usually statement credits or checks) from my various rewards credit cards. How do you guys classify them in Mint? My thoughts, but I also think I'm overthinking it: 1. Putting them as a credit to Shopping or your other most-spent top-level category is decent, since it counteracts a small amount of spending there for long-term trend analysis. But on the other hand, it's not specific on what types of things you used the credit card for. 2. Putting it as "Credit Card Payment" is a bad idea, since that category is reserved for transfers from cash/checking/etc. to the credit card balance and would lack the "double entry" representation on the other side of the transaction. 3. Putting it as "Income", "Bonus", "Reimbursement", or "Bank fee" might not be a bad idea for similar trend analysis as #1 above and to keep it separate from other transactions in Shopping/Entertainment/Food/whatever. The cash back comes from a variety of purchases, and depending on the card, might not be weighted evenly for each purchase (e.g. 5% rotating categories with Chase Freedom), so overanalyzing it or trying to use it to understand your habits is probably a huge waste of time. But I also don't want to forget about them or be without a good way to look up just how much I'm earning back on my cards.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 20:02
|
|
|
SpelledBackwards posted:I've been using Mint for 6 years now, but haven't figured out a good way to represent Cash Back (usually statement credits or checks) from my various rewards credit cards. How do you guys classify them in Mint? My thoughts, but I also think I'm overthinking it: I put it as 3 with a specific Reward category since I use the three you mentioned for other things. It's generally such a small amount per transaction that it's not going to effect my spend or budget and since I churn there are also signup bonuses which aren't specifically related to a purchase.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 20:10
|
|
|
I have a Misc category in YNAB that I use for interest, cash back, or turning in my loose change for bills. I'll either "unbudget" money to clear that to zero or put random one-off small expenses on it. It sounds like micromanaging, but it's actually to save time.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 21:43
|
|
|
I keep it as "income" but that doesn't really make sense since your spending is now elevated higher and you lose that income if you stop spending but shrug
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 22:26
|
|
|
Space Gopher posted:Are you looking at secured cards, or prepaid cards? I'm putting in for the Discover and thank you very much for the response. I know this is going to take close to twelve months to unfuck to the point where I can qualify for an unsecured credit line from my credit union and I intend to repeat the same credit building methods that I implemented when I was 20-22 in order to become a reward milking fucker again except this time I won't work myself to death and then blow it all on VICE to escape. The real trick to this for me isn't the budget it's the tactics of flipping a car or two when I qualify for taking loans without a cosigner to rocket to the 680-720 region again. At that point it's a cakewalk. Response from Discover: REJECTED SERIOUS DELINQUENCY, AND DEROGATORY PUBLIC RECORD OR COLLECTION FILED TOO FEW ACCOUNTS CURRENTLY PAID AS AGREED % OF BALANCE TO CREDIT LIMIT TOO HIGH ON REVOLVING ACCOUNTS welp. i guess i'll need to put up serious scratch as a deposit and flip whatever via taking loans to get to a point where i can do anything.
|
|
#
?
Jan 8, 2017 23:46
|
|
|
You can try calling Discover, they have a reconsideration line. Since their secured cards match your line of credit to your initial security deposit there isn't really a risk for them if you default so you may be able to get approved if you explain you're looking to rebuild your credit. If you do get approved I wouldn't expect your credit score to rise rapidly regardless of what you do until those negative incidents fall completely off your credit report. Until then it will likely just be very slow but steady growth as you continue to make on time payments. If you don't get approved Nerdwallet has an article with a few suggestions, one that stands out is a secured credit card that doesn't actually require a credit check to get, but still reports to all three credit bureaus. It unfortunately is not as good as Discover's card and has a $35 annual fee. https://www.nerdwallet.com/blog/credit-cards/denied-secured-credit-card/
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 00:40
|
|
|
THF13 posted:You can try calling Discover, they have a reconsideration line. Since their secured cards match your line of credit to your initial security deposit there isn't really a risk for them if you default so you may be able to get approved if you explain you're looking to rebuild your credit. DONE: for what its worth i'm still happy to be working eighty hours a week between three jobs as a single dude and saving 80% of my income in a savings account for the future but this is by far a more hosed up life than the other options that i read about. sometimes i just want to save up 20k, buy a truck, and go live in it and work for a real pay company in san diego instead of fixing my poo poo here and then getting on with life but i'm not against giving away that pound of flesh and getting on the right flight line.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 02:02
|
|
|
i did the nerdwallet thing. i wish i had done it two years ago.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 03:00
|
|
|
I am not sure if I missed it, but you can try to correct whatever those vas marks are. Obviously if they are closed or done with there isn't much to do, but if you have open issues trying to solve them may help. We have a debt thread for advice in that regard.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 03:26
|
|
|
Ashcans posted:I am not sure if I missed it, but you can try to correct whatever those vas marks are. Obviously if they are closed or done with there isn't much to do, but if you have open issues trying to solve them may help. We have a debt thread for advice in that regard. i'm doing the ol' ignore for however many years while they forget about me technique and so far 90% of the listings have dropped off creditkarma.com i just have an under $1000 medical debt that will gently caress me in the rear end forever but right now i need to focus on paying my cut of the mortgage and building up a thousand or two for an eventual trip to mexico for dental. i went ahead and put in for the openskycc secured card and i'm going to call them this morning to have them put a rush job on the card send out so i can get going with paying the monthly bills on the card to get this poo poo parade in motion.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 14:04
|
|
|
Trip to Mexico for dental work? What is your life, dude.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 15:33
|
|
|
Discover rejected me repeatedly, while other companies gave me cards, so I wouldn't bother with them yet. I have a similar story to yours- I had some debt charged off and a bunch of late payments between 2007 and 2011, buried my head in the sand, and didn't gently caress around with credit cards again until 2015. I signed up for Credit Karma and my score was in the 530s. Not even two years later, it's up to between 700 and 740 depending on the CC balance I'm running. As may would suggest, just focus on not making any more mistakes. No late payments is the biggest, because everything else (inquiries, utilization %) can be cleaned up a lot sooner. The first card I was approved for this time around was the Capital One Journey student card. Not that I was a student at the time, but they want those naive students
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 18:13
|
|
|
DNK posted:Trip to Mexico for dental work? What is your life, dude.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 20:41
|
|
|
DNK posted:Trip to Mexico for dental work? What is your life, dude. This is pretty common now cause anything medical is so expensive in the USA. I considered doing it for the two teeth I had to have replaced and had to pay out of pocket for but ended up not cause required three surgeries total and that's a lot of traveling.
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 21:01
|
|
|
I have a good dentist and insurance but If I needed serious work I'd consider it, also because silly excuse to spend a winter weekend on the beach why not Mexico owns
|
|
#
?
Jan 9, 2017 21:44
|
|
|
I got an auto loan through USAA and just assumed they would give me a good rate because they are USAA. This was dumb. Rounding here, but I got a 10K loan at 7.85% and I want to refinance, but I'm going a little crazy with research. Any suggestions on who I should contact for this? edit: per Credit Karma, Transunion has my credit score at 710 and Experian at 744
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 02:06
|
|
|
Is refinancing a 10k car loan even a thing?
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 02:09
|
|
|
omnibobb posted:I got an auto loan through USAA and just assumed they would give me a good rate because they are USAA. This was dumb. https://www.nerdwallet.com/blog/loans/best-places-to-refinance-your-car-loan/ I know my coworker got his loan through Lightstream which was new to me but he said it was a great experience. Star War Sex Parrot fucked around with this message at 02:14 on Jan 10, 2017 |
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 02:10
|
|
|
omnibobb posted:I got an auto loan through USAA and just assumed they would give me a good rate because they are USAA. This was dumb. My car loan through USAA (when I had a loan) was 3.24% for about $8K. Surprised yours was that high.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 05:08
|
|
|
Star War Sex Parrot posted:I know my coworker got his loan through Lightstream which was new to me but he said it was a great experience. Seconding Lightstream, but you need excellent credit and there may be a minimum of $10k. Rates were pretty good when I used them. Lightstream is great for buying a used car because it's a personal loan, you keep the title. They just wired me the money and there was no hassle of bringing the seller to a bank to deal with the title.
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2017 16:24
|
|
|
I haven't been able to find the answer to this online: How long does an employer have to deposit a payroll deduction into an HSA? I opted for an HSA this year, and my first deduction was friday, but my account is still showing a balance of zero. Naturally, I assume something got hosed up, but I don't want to bother HR just yet.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 02:19
|
|
|
il serpente cosmico posted:I haven't been able to find the answer to this online: How long does an employer have to deposit a payroll deduction into an HSA? I opted for an HSA this year, and my first deduction was friday, but my account is still showing a balance of zero. Naturally, I assume something got hosed up, but I don't want to bother HR just yet. I usually get notices the day before payday for any payroll deductions into HSA. I'd ask HR anyway and confirm if it has something to do with being a new account.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 02:22
|
|
|
I live in the UK but work for an Australian company. My Australian bank account (Westpac) charges me $20aud to transfer money to my UK bank (Lloyds). I'm happy with my setup with Westpac, but want to have money in the UK for day-to-day living. Is there a better way to get moneys from AUS -> UK than simply adding myself as a Payee?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 16:51
|
|
|
il serpente cosmico posted:I haven't been able to find the answer to this online: How long does an employer have to deposit a payroll deduction into an HSA? I opted for an HSA this year, and my first deduction was friday, but my account is still showing a balance of zero. Naturally, I assume something got hosed up, but I don't want to bother HR just yet. I work for a small business and mine generally shows up 3-5 business days from the date the paycheck was direct deposited.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 21:11
|
|
|
well why not posted:I live in the UK but work for an Australian company. My Australian bank account (Westpac) charges me $20aud to transfer money to my UK bank (Lloyds). I'm happy with my setup with Westpac, but want to have money in the UK for day-to-day living. Is there a better way to get moneys from AUS -> UK than simply adding myself as a Payee? Can't you get your employer to deposit money in to your UK bank account?
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2017 23:07
|
|
|
I could, but my Westpac savings accounts give a high interest rate if I deposit over $50p/m. I'd be able to transfer from UK > AUS but I'd be paying the transfer fee, just in the other direction, right?
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2017 14:23
|
|
|
At least for me, I can split direct deposits among multiple bank accounts. You could take a look at that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2017 14:51
|
|
|
KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:At least for me, I can split direct deposits among multiple bank accounts. You could take a look at that. Huh, looks like I can too, right from my payroll site. I never would have thought of that. Will come in handy once I start my separate house down payment account in a couple months 
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2017 17:44
|
|
|
Nail Rat posted:Huh, looks like I can too, right from my payroll site. I never would have thought of that. Will come in handy once I start my separate house down payment account in a couple months high five saving money to buy a house buddy
|
|
#
?
Jan 13, 2017 17:48
|
|
|
clopping and cumming posted:I work for a small business and mine generally shows up 3-5 business days from the date the paycheck was direct deposited. 8-bit Miniboss posted:I usually get notices the day before payday for any payroll deductions into HSA. I'd ask HR anyway and confirm if it has something to do with being a new account. Thanks for the info. It's been a week and still showing up as nil, so I'll probably give it another week and then pester them.
|
|
#
?
Jan 14, 2017 00:44
|
|
|
Happy last day that shitvag employees have to deliver w2s. Hope I'm not the only one receiving referral fine money from uncle Sam.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 11:53
|
|
|
well why not posted:I live in the UK but work for an Australian company. My Australian bank account (Westpac) charges me $20aud to transfer money to my UK bank (Lloyds). I'm happy with my setup with Westpac, but want to have money in the UK for day-to-day living. Is there a better way to get moneys from AUS -> UK than simply adding myself as a Payee? Do not use you bank to send money - the fee is a rip off and the exchange rate will be another rip off. Arrange a forex broker cheaply online or look up something like Transferwise (which I'd recommend)
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2017 22:42
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 5, 2024 15:23 |
|
|
Dakha posted:Do not use you bank to send money - the fee is a rip off and the exchange rate will be another rip off. Arrange a forex broker cheaply online or look up something like Transferwise (which I'd recommend) This is exactly what I was after, thank you so much. Just saved like $110 transferring money to my UK account.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2017 12:40
|
|