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We're looking to paint a room such that the walls are wipe/scrub clean. We're open to any suggestion, though paint is the thing we're most qualified to do ourselves. Google shows me a couple of brands, but I don't know what to trust. What sort of prep work should be done to get maximum life out of it? We have a pet bird which throws all manner of staining fruits around the room such as blueberries, cherries, papaya, and various stone fruit. He also splashes quite a distance while bathing. Our current apartment walls flake off to various degrees when we touch them with anything damp, including magic erasers, sponges, paper towels, etc. (From paint to small pieces of drywall flake off.) The big qualifier is it cannot be Teflon based, as that kills birds if it gets into the air.
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Jul 12, 2015 21:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd just go with a high-gloss interior paint. More gloss = easier to clean and more durable, but also shinier (obviously). Usually high-gloss is only used in bathrooms or other areas that have to be cleaned regularly and/or withstand moisture, I guess because people don't like to get glare from their walls. But nothing says you can't use high-gloss paint elsewhere. Thanks. We are weighing the aesthetic vs clean-ability in our heads now.
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Jul 13, 2015 16:45
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Mercury Ballistic posted:Exhaust fan chat: I put in a panasonic and the thing is whisper quiet. It moves some air and I have been very happy. I had to order online, none carried in the box stores and the manual seems more for new construction, but I got in in ok with some creative interpretation. Link? We may need a new one soon.
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Aug 25, 2015 02:00
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Edit edit: Actually I just remembered there is a dedicated thread for this. I will re-post there. Replacing a dimmer switch: It all fit when I took it apart. (Regular -> LED compatible to hopefully remove flicker.) Replacing a regular dimmer switch which was hooked up to a fan (thanks!) with a light switch. I want to add a grounding wire while I have it open. Box doesn't have an obvious place for it, but the back of the metal box has two holes. Youtube has told me I can just use any old screw/bolt to attach the wire to those holes. Is there a common size for that hole? I have some extra 14AWG green wire, is that sufficient or should I get 12AWG? Edit: Turns out there are 2 outlets, 8 recessed halogens, an outside porch light, 3 fans w/ quad lights, and 3 other misc light fixtures on this 15A breaker. It spans all 3 bedrooms and the living/dining room. All bulbs have been replaced with LEDs now (see other dimmer switch.) I haven' tested any other outlets yet for fear of finding more things hooked up. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Sep 20, 2015 |
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Sep 19, 2015 20:49
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Gothmog1065 posted:Is there a decently priced really low profile light fixture that puts out good light? I was looking at some LED ones but the ones I've found are stupid expensive right now. We have something that looks similar to this: http://www.grainger.com/product/ACU...er/22LU35_AS01?$smthumb$ I can't go banging around in the office right now, but it was installed before we moved in. It's my favorite light in the house.
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Oct 8, 2015 06:36
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Jose Cuervo posted:GFCI question: I plan on installing GFCI outlets in the kitchen and was looking at some installation instructions here. My question is with the 'Placement in circuit' box on the pdf. When they say that "Placing the GFCI in position A will also provide protection to "load side" receptacles B and C.", what do they mean? Do they mean that if receptacles B and C are not GFCI and either of B or C short circuits, then GFCI A will also trip? Check out the "Don't burn down your house" thread, specifically: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3090739&pagenumber=49&perpage=40#post399240083 [Breaker box]---line power--->[Line GFCI Load]---Load--->[Line regular-outlet Load]----load--->[Line regular-outlet Load](nothing) Everything on the "Load Side" of the GFCI is protected, anything on the "line side" is certain doom. Use the appropriate stickers provided in your GFCI box to label all outlets.
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Oct 10, 2015 19:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:3) Paint brands. Consumer Reports actually thinks quite highly of Home Depot's Behr Premium Plus Ultra Exterior paint. Any countervailing opinions? It's probably fine. We just used 3/4 gallon of Valspar Reserve and it was magic. Single coat with a roller over otherwise unprepared prior paint of a different (but not TOO highly contrasting/dark) color. Fastest I've ever painted a room. Home Depot Paint Guy said it would be stretching it given the dimensions of the room but it was so easy. We probably would have gotten closer to the whole gallon if it weren't for one wall being 60-70% window.
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Oct 18, 2015 19:39
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Motronic posted:There is no need to guess. Shut it off and flush the toilet. Does water come back in to the tank at all? If not, good. It's literally step one of toilet repairs.
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Oct 20, 2015 05:52
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Radbot posted:How effective are ozone generators are removing odors? I'm not talking about the ones you find at Target, but instead the professional ozone generators that pump out literal shittons of ozone. I'm battling a mouse problem in my house and, while we've stemmed the tide, the previous owner was an idiot and poisoned the gently caress out the place so some of them are dying in the walls. Would this be a good use of homeowners insurance? Have ServPro Overpriced Cleaners Inc come out and de-rat-[corpse|piss|poop] everything? Is that even covered?
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Oct 22, 2015 06:29
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PainterofCrap posted:In short: no. Damage by insects, birds, domestic animals, and vermin is specifically excluded, even if it did happen within your policy period (which it did not). Fair enough. I figured if it was covered (etc) that if you're getting into drywall or wood replacement it might suddenly spike over your deductible, even if you included the loss of "claim free discount" depending on the extent. NancyPants posted:So it's like leaving a 60w bulb on for over an hour every day (e: for 3 bulbs+ bridge to run all day); not too bad to me. If these numbers are correct, you could do some napkin math to figure out when the bulbs pay for themselves (that I am not going to do at 2am) (I assume break even = heat death of the universe, these fuckers are Not Cheap). As far as the break even point we had some bulbs which we left on 12 hours a day which broke even in 3 months. They were basic TCP brand dimmable bulbs though. 60W -> 8W = 52W savings, $cost_of_bulb / (((52*Hours_on*30)/1000)*$0.18) = break even month. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Oct 24, 2015 |
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Oct 24, 2015 14:20
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Our smoke detector woke us up at 4AM with one full bore beep. Pulled it down and it expired in April! Pulled down the rest, manufactured in 1999! Ordered 4x: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PC5SX98 (Delivered today by 9pm, yay!) Please validate my life choices.  Anything obviously incorrect about that one? Ours are not hardwire.
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Oct 26, 2015 15:54
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Hashtag Banterzone posted:Even if you decide to add a couple cans in addition to the holes you have now it shouldn't be too bad. If you can put the new hole in the same joist cavity as an existing light it will just mean daisy chaining in a new bit of romex (you want to make sure the total amps drawn by the lights is not more than 80% of the breaker amp rating, but I'm guessing you won't have any issues since you currently have 4 halogen bulbs in each fixture). I've had a lot of luck with TCP brand LED BR30 flood bulbs. Our old condo got very little natural light, so they got way higher than the average "on" time for a year or so, speaking of keeping amps down and lumens up.
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Nov 6, 2015 19:37
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Crotch Fruit posted:. I am also extremely tempted to grab and yank all of AT&Ts phone lines (Cat 5, demarkated at bath tub in second room, don't have access to the wall) and put ethernet jacks on. The only lovely part about that is if I try to sell the house in the future saying I would probably have to hook up all the phone lines again to get the old people to bite. They make universal keystones which will take both ethernet and phone cords. Use those, then you have the best of both worlds.
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Nov 15, 2015 07:11
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BonoMan posted:Garage door wonkiness: Lube it. Check that the bolts holding the wheels onto the door are all set correctly. Ours got so cranky it eventually tore one of them clean off. It was a rental.
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Nov 24, 2015 19:33
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The Dave posted:How long could it take grout to reach its final color? We had some tiles redone in our shower 2 weeks ago and the grout they used is way darker than our original stuff. Is there a chance it lightens up anymore or is that it? From the tile work I've done, 2 weeks is plenty.
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Jan 5, 2016 17:23
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Do appliance repair questions go here? I have a 10 year old fridge which I bought new, the second cheapest one home depot sold the day I went in doing no other research. It is a freezer on top / fridge on the bottom double door model. It came with an ice maker which I haven't left installed because it always made awful ice. It has been having a frosting problem, so I assume this means "something" is wrong with the defrost circuit. It keeps food cold and frozen food frozen until the drain plug in the back fills up, then food starts getting freezer burned or worse, and the fridge part starts getting water in it. I tested the actual defroster by unplugging the molex connector and sticking my multimeter in it on "continuity" (I got it for christmas, so...) it beeps and gives a reading in ohms which I forgot to write down but the manual says was <= 60Ω. It also beeps if I hold the probes together in this mode. Then I traced the wires, it looks like white one joins to the connector for the icemaker, which also goes into the white on the plug in the back which goes into a mysterious land behind the back of the freezer.  Brown joins to the back plug, and then runs across the top of the fan module over to this guy, whose pink wire runs back to the back of the fridge plug of mysteries:   As I look at this pictures, I see the white/black molex connector in top of the picture and wonder what that is, after I have put everything back together. This is what I have, "Roper by Whirlpool" Manufactured May 2006, Model RT21LMXK009,  Where do I go from here? Is there an easy way to test the module it seems to be running to? Do I need to take the back off the fridge and look?
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Jan 9, 2016 20:05
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kid sinister posted:First off, a multimeter tests for lots of things, which I'm sure you're aware of if you read the manual. Second, "continuity mode" is to test if there is a complete circuit between the 2 probes of the multimeter. Continuity modes have beeps if there is a complete circuit. The beeping is useful if you got your hands poked somewhere that it would be hard for you to turn your head to see the readout on the multimeter. If the continuity test shows a complete circuit, then you know that all the metal in between where you touched the probes is a complete. There are no breaks in it, just like when you touched the probes directly together. There was nothing holding back the flow of electricity then, so the multimeter showed a low resistance. Well, that test comes in handy when touching heating elements, like the one in your freezer. Yup. I did in fact read the manual! (Hence <= 60 Ohms.) I was super 100% hoping to find that the heating element was broken in some way, even if I knew it was an extreme long shot given the simplicity of a heating element basically being a coil of wire even if it goes through a lot of stress getting below freezing then heating up. I know the fundamentals, but I've rarely gotten my hands dirty on this sort of thing. kid sinister posted:The first thing to check should be the drip tube. Just for the record, is there anything stuck in it that could cause ice to build up? The drip tube is what we're cleaning, it seems to fill with ice. We put nearly boiling water into it out of our electric kettle (speaking of electricity -> heat), eventually it "clears" and life goes on, but now this is the second time this has happened. This video is for a different brand, but the cooling element (etc) all is identical, look ~35s in: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ycWz_U_GDU My way of saying "thanks" : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EViyccc2t9w
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Jan 10, 2016 06:00
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kid sinister posted:Again for the record, look closer down that drip tube. Is there anything inside? I'm talking minuscule burrs. What about the angle? Is it too horizontal that water doesn't get the chance to get out before it freezes? Ok, I will take the rear cover off the fridge to hopefully see how the drip tube runs. If it's non-obvious from whatever gets exposed in the rear why it might get blocked up I'll try to figure out some way to see down / snake down from the top. It's location makes it nontrivial to see down from the top as it's below the (to my knowledge) fixed cooling coils/fins. Thanks again for your help and suggestions.
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Jan 10, 2016 16:07
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Motronic posted:Got a weed whacker? String trimmer line is a great way to snake these kinds of lines out (and the sunroof drains on your car). I do! That is a fabulous idea. When I started reading your sentence I had this horrifying thought of how a weed whacker was going to be involved in chiseling a door for a strike plate. 
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Jan 10, 2016 18:49
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Phanatic posted:Okay, this is a bit specific. The top of ours is behind a panel in the freezer. Remove a few screws and it pops off revealing the freezer coils/fins, fan, heating element, and drain. Check youtube for videos of people cleaning your (or similar) fridges for help.
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Jan 10, 2016 21:35
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If it doesn't weight that much why not just use drywall anchors? They make pretty beefy ones.
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Jan 18, 2016 20:35
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"Smart" devices which charge over USB tend to be really obnoxiously picky about handshaking with the USB charging device. I think it is equally the chargers fault. I bought the finest, cheapest, Chinaest USB volt/amp meter: http://smile.amazon.com/Charger-Voltage-Current-Battery-Detector/dp/B013JGOZ3E/ From there I tried out various combinations of: devices: iphone5, galaxy S3, ipad mini (who knows) cables: Apple Official, Samsung Official, Monoprice Mysteries, random one I found in a drawer charger: Samsung Official 1A, Samsung Official 2A, Apple 1A, Apple 2A, GoPro cigarette lighter What it basically came down to was regardless of cable the Apple+Apple or Samsung+Samsung were the only ones which drew more than 500mA @ 5V. Otherwise they drew 1A (phones) 2A (ipad) when hooked up to their matched brands. Then it broke.
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Feb 4, 2016 03:51
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Captain Cool posted:If you want something that's just like a USB cable, why not use a USB cable? I was wondering this myself. If you like the connector for your project, use the connector, if you don't, cut it off.
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Feb 4, 2016 05:36
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BoyBlunder posted:How do I replace the lightbulb in this bathroom fixture? Tried twisting the plastic? It may only be held in by those tabs, but a quarter turn into a notch.
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Feb 6, 2016 04:41
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Gounads posted:But any way you do this, the corners will be very fragile, they won't last long if you're handling them. To help prevent this could you like tape the edges after cutting with duct tape? A single length per side, centered and folded over to form a wrap on the edge? It says drying, I assume that is air drying and not kiln drying.
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Feb 11, 2016 16:01
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We're having 2 contractors come in and bid on renovating a bathroom. It is a big renovation of a very small bathroom. We are flipping the entire thing including the door to convert it from the small bathroom of shame no one uses to the small ensuite bathroom of shame we will use all the time. New fixtures all around including tub & toilet, adding an exhaust fan, replacing the rusted-semi-open slat window, shrinking a closet on the other side, moving the closet doors, and all the trimmings. (RIP Kid Sinister's 120V Gloryhole.) This is our first time contracting someone to do work for us. Oh god this is a lot of money and risk. Contractor claims there are no permits needed because nothing we're doing touches anything load bearing or otherwise "major" - I pressed him on if we needed permits several times how I would rather pull one to be safe if he was at all concerned. He claims no, I will see if the second contractor agrees. We found the contractor by talking to the GC who did a gorgeous massive renovation of my in-laws house. Finding the second one is going to be harder as we are new to this area. Plus we're going to do a copper repipe (w/ service line replacement) at the same time to replace the vintage 1947 galvanized "pipe" that currently runs our house. We have the plumber for that all worked out. tl;dr Bathroom renovation + copper repipe: We know to check their license with the state and get a copy of their proof of insurance, but what obvious warning signs should we be looking for in the designs, the contract, etc? How are pay splits typically handled?
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Feb 14, 2016 17:46
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Zhentar posted:Check with you AHJ. If they don't have a website that lists it, call the building inspector's office. If none of that actually requires a permit, you have extremely lax code enforcement in your area; you've described at least four things that would individually require permits for me. It's so obvious and yet I needed you to tell me. I had quite the "duh" moment just now. Thanks. Re-pipe the plumbers already mentioned needing permits for that, and it's mentioned in their bids as I recall. You are right: 1. "Remodel of a building requiring: the addition or removal of all or any portion of a wall, window or door; or enlargement of an opening for a window or door" 2. "Window and door installation (if increasing or decreasing window size or installation in new location)" 3. "Electrical work, including: upgrade, repair or relocation of electrical panel; addition of a new electrical circuit; or extension of an existing electrical circuit" 4. "Plumbing work" 5.  Those were the ones I saw which were relevant to my job. Does this mean see how he reacts to insisting on a permit and walking away if he balks again, or just walk away now? I otherwise got a good feeling from him, and he said "you can pull one if you want, but I think it's a waste of time."
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Feb 14, 2016 23:19
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Cakefool posted:Walk away now. Why doesn't he want permits? Isn't his work good enough to be inspected? That is what my gut was telling me. I'm going to go ahead and let him give me a bid then walk it up and meet the city to get to know them and the process. Then at least I have something to compare future bids to, etc. We copied all the permits for this house when we bought it, some of which are nothing more than abstract faxes-of-copies-of-microfilm from many decades ago.
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Feb 15, 2016 00:02
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tl;dr trying something see last line of post.Motronic posted:Got a weed whacker? String trimmer line is a great way to snake these kinds of lines out (and the sunroof drains on your car). Freezer ice buildup part this thing is going on craigslist if this happens again: Just de-iced the freezer again. Tied a knot in some weed whacker string, pushed it in at the top, and pulled it through, came out completely clean 3 times. I only cut myself on the radiator fins twice. kid sinister posted:Again for the record, look closer down that drip tube. Is there anything inside? I'm talking minuscule burrs. What about the angle? Is it too horizontal that water doesn't get the chance to get out before it freezes? Looking at the back of the fridge I do not see any way to completely inspect the drip tube. The plain metal back of the fridge is behind the bent over lip of the finished/painted fridge "body" by an inch, the bits which bolt it on at the bottom look closer to rivets than anything you could get a driver bit onto, and even if they cam out there is still the lip on the left/right/top holding it in place. I guess the tray in the base of the freezer could be not perfectly aligned/seated/etc which lets a tiny bit of ice to form? I'm not sure how to then test/fix that. I think I'm to the point of a appliance repair person or replacement unless there is something else obvious I have not tried. Edit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VHD556AQ894 @ 3:52, 4:40 there is a little wire running from their defroster down into the hole. Mine does not have that. Edit edit: http://www.applianceaid.com/defrost-drain-freezes.php , http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/threads/4187-Roper-Refrigerator-Leaking I wonder if just wrapping a piece of copper wire around the heater and putting it an inch or two into the hole would help or hinder? Edit edit edit: http://www.davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYrefrigdrainfix.htm I'm going to try it the internet wouldn't burn my house down would it? H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 02:32 on Feb 21, 2016 |
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Feb 21, 2016 02:22
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Hackan Slash posted:
Is that hot water pipe now load bearing when you stand on the floor above it?
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Feb 28, 2016 17:53
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For our small yard I use an electric with no battery: http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002ZVOLXE Plus a 50' cord which reaches the entire yard from a single outlet, but is at its limit on the longest length of the yard: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OS7ETIA/ I am awful at estimating distance, but the yard is probably 625 square feet, but closer to a triangle in shape due to a patio. Takes me 20? minutes and 1 bag to mow. Edit: Hurr 25*25 not 25 sq ft. H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 21:00 on Mar 18, 2016 |
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Mar 17, 2016 23:25
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Leperflesh posted:If you do get a plug-in electric, get an outdoor rated heavy duty three-prong extension cord, plug it into a properly grounded three-prong outlet, and don't for gently caress's sake run over it with the mower. Don't defeat the grounding. My mower only has 2 prongs but is "double insulated" whatever that means. The extension cord I linked is nominally the correct AWG for the length according to the manual, not accounting for the distance of the circuit in the wall. I've only almost run over it once.
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Mar 18, 2016 03:37
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30 Goddamned Dicks posted:$20 on a gallon of paint This advice is going to make the competent people in the thread grimace. We always buy the most expensive paint at Lowes (Valspar Reserve, $45?/gallon) and just go to town. We've generally been just painting over whatever is already on a wall (so no bare drywall which I would break down and prime) without any prep work whatsoever, but it works. We buy high quality brushes and mid-range rollers. We likely go through far more paint than you're "supposed" to for a given sq-ft but I value being finished over potentially saving $10-20/gallon.
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Mar 30, 2016 05:53
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30 Goddamned Dicks posted:That's what I was using, and I did wash the walls beforehand. Wash, then spackle, then sand and tack cloth, then cut in, then roller. The cut ins look fine, the roller paint disappeared. I am going back to go back and prime everything, then try again- but will probably go ahead and purchase Benjamin Moore instead of HD. Are you thinning the paint at all? (Don't.) How much paint are you going through for how many approximate sq ft rolling?
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Mar 30, 2016 21:07
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The Gardenator posted:I know they require the sub to have a million dollars of insurance. This is something you should require of basically any contractor doing real work in your house. It is not expensive for them to carry this. Get proof of insurance before the contract is signed. Call the number at the top and make sure the policy is in effect for the dates they're working. It will likely look like this: 
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Mar 31, 2016 15:20
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I bought a "3M Half Facepiece Respirator 6000 series" with an "OV/P100" cartridge set so I can do things like get up into the attic and work with liquid pesticides without irritating my lungs more than they are on as a baseline (yay chronic bronchitis.) I've read everything I've found in English in this thing and I can't find specific replacement guidelines for the cartridges beyond "Hard to breathe through" and "40 hours/30 days whichever is shorter if working in an oily environment." Is it that simple? The printed expiration date on the sealed cartridge packaging is "10.2020" which I assume is otherwise the upper limit. I've done the inhale/exhale fitment tests as listed in the instructions and it appears to fit correctly.
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Apr 3, 2016 17:39
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His Divine Shadow posted:Can anyone recommend a cheap way to set up some remote controlled webcams that you can access over the internet? Readymade solutions, or perhaps cobbling togheter something using a raspberry pi? Indoors or outdoors? Home or office? Wifi or cat5 hardwire? Do you want it to be slick with an app or DIY viewing?
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Apr 7, 2016 15:24
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His Divine Shadow posted:It would be at my parents farm, they'd like to be able to have one that sits on the balcony and looks down into their backyard incase someone tries to go there and perhaps pick himself up some fertilizer bags and whatnot. As well as one camera that could be set up to watch a control panel. It would all be wifi so it could be connected to their router/modem. For around $70 you can get the finest chinese shady crap which is totally fine for things where privacy isn't an issue such as fertilizer monitoring. Comes with a 120VAC wall wart, full pan/tilt/2 way audio, and ONVIF compliant. I returned mine because it was too shady to use as a "inside" camera or baby monitor. It requires one of these if you want a username/password on your device: 1. An app signed by ShenZhen Foscam Intelligent Technology co., Ltd. which immediately and unceremoniously starts uploading your video to China 2. A windows program which is flagged as a virus by Windows Defender http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I9M4HBO Otherwise I am currently looking at Hikvision, and while a real human replied to me on initial contact, it was just a redirect to support which has yet to reply to my questions. They offer cameras which are certified for use outdoors, and even have POE powered ones.
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Apr 8, 2016 04:49
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Vulcan posted:FiOS tech showed up, wouldn't drill a hole through the foundation to get the line into the basement where the mechanical closet is. If it's what I'm thinking of the fiber connector is LC ( http://www.fs.com/images/ckfinder/images/tutorial/LC_connector.jpg ). Splicing on a new end is around $25 in parts and 15-20 minutes of labor if you don't do it all day every day. I bet the answer changes if you're willing to slip him some green to cover him billing it to Frontier as a "damaged connector." One thing to note is that you *might* be able to get by splitting the connector (lookup how to do it, "how to roll an LC fiber" or similar) but you have to make sure you never bend too far. Make sure you note which side is which for when you put it back together. Edit: Parts price, pack of 60, 2 per splice: http://www.westwayelectricsupply.com/8830-apc-fs-no-polish-conn-lc-apc-sm-flat-splice-250-900um-w-tool.html?gclid=CLjHxf_M_8sCFYeUfgodNukADw H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Apr 8, 2016 |
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Apr 8, 2016 18:46
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Tigren posted:drat it, I wanted it to be physically flat after, not visually! So how do I get a nice black color, but a smooth surface? I think we can all forgive the painting errors so long as this game cabinet has some way to dispense beer in it as well. Also going back to earlier paint chat, we just re-homed our bird and cleaned his room top to bottom. Everywhere we put on the satin finish Valspar Reserve wiped clean with some vinegar solution and minor scrubbing in problem areas. The molding which has "regular" paint on it is stained and will need to be sanded + painted. Spending extra on paint is totally worth it.
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Apr 20, 2016 01:51
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