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GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.
UFO: Afterlight

· Apply the official and unofficial patches, and look into the rebalance mod. They fix a lot of the weirdness and CTD bugs.
· You'll be reliant on Reticulan weapons until you can start building firearms. Ammo is very scarce in the early game; don't waste it.
· Resource levels are non-linear. You'll have level 2 metal supply with 2 mines, level 3 with 4 mines, level 6 at 16, etc. If you're desperate you can try to request resources from your allies, but they'll usually want a different resource in exchange.
· For much of the game, you'll be able to dictate the operation tempo. If you don't expand at all, you'll be unable to pursue key research and manufacturing projects. Expand too fast, and your tech will be insufficient to properly exploit and defend your territory. Try to strike a balance.
· The Beastmen aren't cheating. The reason they can detect your soldiers from halfway across the map is because they can smell you. Don't expect stealth approaches to be very effective. Use cover, indirect fire weapons, and landmines to turn the tables in your favour. Eventually, a technological solution will present itself.
· Tactical combat will seem slow and stupid at first because, well, it is. You've got a crew of truck drivers in awkward spacesuits, terrified to move too quickly lest they brush up against a sharp outcropping and die of hypoxia. They're armed with a handful of scientific tools and alien artefacts that someone has told them should work as weapons. They're wearing diapers, for heaven's sake. Just relax; things get a lot more fast-paced and *tactical* later on.

· Accept that the game isn't XCOM:
··· You'll always be outnumbered. Eventually your soldiers will be outclassed as well. You can't simply hire new recruit to make up for losses. Aborting a mission doesn't hurt your funding score (since you don't have one), and it may be the only way to save your soldiers' lives.
··· Weapons aren't all that deadly. Move your soldiers in groups, because you'll want concentrated firepower to take down enemies quickly.
··· Maps are small, weapon ranges / spotting distances are short, and tactical fights don't last long. Snipers are less useful than you might expect, because of the time needed to get them into position.
··· You can get knockout weapons, but they're a waste of time because you can't use them to kidnap enemies whenever you feel like it. You'll be assigned specific "capture" missions, and the game allows you to use lethal weapons to perform them. Just put a few bullets into the target and he'll become very cooperative.
··· There is no UFOpedia. You're facing an unknown foe; you're supposed to learn what works and what doesn't by trial-and-error instead of magical infodumps. If you're desperate, you can look up the relevant statistics (damage resistance values are very important) on the ALTAR forums or in the game files.

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GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Chinook posted:

First off, don't bother trying to do everything. Just play through normally the first time. If you decide that you want to max out every social link in a single playthrough, there's a guide for that, and you should probably do it on your New Game+. Don't ruin the fun of the game.
Agreed. I made the mistake of checking a guide after getting stuck on a boss, and got completely dispirited when I realized that I had missed a few critical dates and developed the wrong Social Links. Then I decided that I wasn't going to let some poopsocking completionist FAQ writer force me to start over, so I froze time and visited 3-4 people during each "After School" period until I caught up.

In retrospect, I wish I'd just played it straight; when you do everything "right" the first time through there's no motivation for a second run.

quote:

You froze time? I'm confused by that.
I was cheating. If I control the memory address where the "time of day" counter is stored, I can prevent the clock from moving forward.

GulMadred fucked around with this message at 10:03 on Mar 26, 2009

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

GobiasIndustries posted:

Despite knowing nothing about the series, I picked up the XCom pack on Steam a few weeks ago. I fired up UFO Defense and was completely lost. Is this the right game to try first, and what am I supposed to be doing?
You can find the manual online. The wiki has some tips. I'll add a few more:

A tactical mission will not end until you stun/kill the last alien. On some of the larger, multi-floor maps, this can be an aggravating ordeal. You may begin to suspect that the bastard has somehow glitched into the scenery and is completely inaccessible, but he has usually just wandered past your forces into a previously-cleared area. Hopefully you have enough warm bodies remaining to perform a systematic sweep.

Don't abuse the Save/Load system to defeat the random number generator. You're supposed to lose soldiers, so get used to it. If you don't, then your first encounter with a Chrysalid or Tentaculat will be quite upsetting.

Grenades are very useful, but you'll rarely have enough time to move a soldier into position, prime a grenade, and throw it in the same turn. Grenades can be primed to 0 and then carried indefinitely, which makes them much more versatile. Just remember to keep your soldiers spread out so that the "dead-man switch" effect doesn't wipe a whole squad.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Gerblyn posted:

UFO: Afterlight
http://anthonyhobday.com/misc/wsik/index.php/Site/UFOAfterlight

Balance is largely self-regulating. If you expand too fast then you'll run out of ammunition and you'll halt your military adventures. If you haven't expanded enough, then you'll be motivated to capture some resources and build the cool new stuff your scientists have invented. The downside is that these sorts of planning mistakes can leave your personnel idle and unproductive for long periods; if this bothers you then you can find mods which provide all of the characters with a second job to keep them busy.

Your soldiers will not "lead" the target when throwing grenades. Either direct your attacks manually (using the "attack ground" option), get the enemy to stand still, or target large groups. Targeting groups is actually effective with direct-fire weapons also; as in XCOM your shots will sometimes miss the intended target but hit his buddy instead.

Reaction speed is very important, because it's possible to stagger an opponent with an early hit and disrupt his ability to retaliate. Your soldiers' speed (readying, aiming, reloading, refire delay, etc) will improve based on their RPG stats. You can help by issuing the "ready weapon" (hotkey W) command when your troops are standing idle. The "attack when reasonable" setting is also useful; your soldiers will ready weapons, draw a bead on the enemy and pull the trigger as soon as he steps around the corner.

You can safely build a geosonde in any unoccupied land. However, if you attempt to develop territories (build mines, terraforming stations, or defensive structure) which are adjacent to enemy land then it's likely that the construction site will be attacked immediately. You'll be forced to launch a "rescue" mission to avoid a takeover. You can avoid this frustration by leaving your border territories fallow; always build improvements at least one step back.

Diplomacy isn't very important. You'll be prompted to use it at a few points in order to move the plot forward, but you don't need to obsess over it as in 4X games (in fact, Afterlight won't even allow you to do so).

Drones aren't very effective at fighting until late game, and they're only moderately useful as scouts. However, they work amazingly well as bullet sponges. This is especially important because (unlike XCOM) your supply of warm bodies is finite.

Play around with the alternate camera modes (infra-vision, psi, etc) when they're available. They don't change the gameplay at all (e.g. a nightvision-equipped soldier will see in the dark even in "normal" camera mode), but the developers obviously put some work into them.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

crime fighting hog posted:

I'm about to play Temple of Elemental Evil for the first time, what should I know?
Open the "Rolls History" window. Most of the numbers that appear in there are hyperlinks. If you're consistently missing the enemy, or inflicting minimal damage, then click on the numbers and find out why. For instance, it's a very bad idea for a rogue to backstab a skeleton, and the game is kind enough to give you a line-by-line breakdown of the underlying rules/statistics.

Use the Ctrl button to bind radial menu selections onto hotkeys. By doing so, you can streamline your standard combat actions (e.g. Charge attack) and spells (e.g. "Cure light wounds") and reduce the risk of wasted actions due to fat-fingering the radial menu. While we're on the subject: scan through the radial menu every once in a while. You may not have realized that one of your characters gained a new ability (such as "rapid shot") during a recent levelup, or you may have forgotten about old ones (such as "smite evil").

If you have a character in a good tactical position and want to wait for the enemy to approach, left-click their character portrait in the initiative bar (top of the screen) and drag it left/right until they appear at the desired spot in the initiative order. Example: your rogue will tend to win initiative rolls. You could run in and stab a flatfooted enemy for bonus damage, but it puts your rogue at risk. Instead, you might want to rearrange things so that your fighter or cleric charges in first and then have the rogue backstab a foe who is already engaged.

It's quite possible to wipe out your party by wandering blindly into around a corner and meeting an excessive number of level-appropriate foes. You can set a formation for your party, but it tends to get disrupted enroute and so your toughest characters won't necessarily be on the frontlines when combat begins. Instead, it's a good idea to scout ahead using an invisible character or rogue. In the latter case, you must activate the "Sneak" movement mode; enemies will instantly spot a stealthy character who is moving normally (or even standing still, if Sneak is off).

Assuming you can detect that same group of level-appropriate foes early, then you have lots of options:
-find an alternate route. Enemy groups are sedentary (no roaming patrols), and there's usually 2-3 paths through any dungeon section (although you may need a skilled rogue to find those paths)
-retreat, heal, replenish spells, and even (if necessary) recruit new allies
-try to open hostilities by catching most of the enemy group in an area-effect spell (or by backstabbing the enemy healer)
-find a defensible bottleneck and lure the enemy into it

Archers don't deal much damage compared to melee fighters or casters. The best use for them that I've found is suppressing enemies via the "Tactical" slice of the radial menu. You can disrupt a mage's spell or stop a charging enemy in his tracks... but only if you actually hit them. Therefore, it's important to position archers tactically and keep a clear line-of-sight; if you start firing over/through/into a scrum then you're going to suffer serious penalties on your rolls. You also need to predict the enemy's actions to some degree; if you tell your ranger to "Wait for spell" and nobody casts one, then he's just going to stand there looking stupid until his next turn.

Take your time when leveling up and choosing spells for your arcance casters (sorceror, bard, wizard). You'll feel outgunned in the early stages so it's tempting to focus purely on offense (e.g. what's going to inflict the most damage, to the most foes, in the least time?). However, a 2nd-level direct damage spell won't be of much use in the endgame, while a 2nd-level buff/debuff might still be useful. A few pointers:
-fog/mist spells can render enemy archers impotent
-a berserk enemy is very dangerous (due to bonus damage), and hard to kill (due to bonus hitpoints). A simple "Calm Emotions" spell will remove both of those bonuses
-the game will throw a lot of magical loot at you, but if you want to specialize your characters in unusual weapons then you'll probably need to enchant your own weapons for maximum effect. Consider taking the "Craft Magic Arms and Armor" feat early (to sneak a peek at the prerequisites list), and choose spells accordingly
-a blind enemy is a lesser threat and an easier target. The glitterdust spell will enable you to blind several enemies simultaneously
-some spells have materials costs which are easy to overlook if you aren't familiar with D&D rules, but such factors are listed in the spell description. Stoneskin costs 100gp IIRC.

Almost every locked chest that you find will also be trapped. Unless you have a rogue in your party, you might as well just leave them alone. Note: you can recruit a rogue henchman if you didn't include one in your main party. On the bright side, the game doesn't have any "free-floating" traps, so you're don't need to spam the "Search for traps" key every five feet.

Druid is a good, well-rounded class (animal companions and summoned animals make great meatshields), but shapeshifting in ToEE is a waste of time.

Identify magic items before selling them. It costs 100gp to do so, but most magic items are worth >100gp so you'll come out ahead. If you don't identify them then you'll get screwed on the price. Exception: don't identify scrolls. Use "Read Magic" (0-level spell) or the "Decipher script" skill instead (they're both free).

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Faerie Fortune posted:

Temple of Elemental Evil
I dug some stuff out of the thread history; could someone please add it to the wiki?

Barudak posted:

Well know that its a) buggy as gently caress so patch that son bitch and b) based on the toughest published D&D module in existence and while the video game is easier still isn't exactly a walk in the park.

Sidequests give really minor rewards so don't worry about them unless you need just a little push over to the next level.

Its based on D&D 3e, which means in comparison to Planescape Torment's 2e it plays great but in comparison to modern RPGs plays sort of akin to over management. You'll have to get used to the strange spell-system where you manage what you know and how long you know it.

Multiclassing in D&D should pretty much never be 1:1 ratio. Typically you want your second class to be at most half the level of the main class. More importantly, aim for making the secondary class stop at a level which gives you free perk/specialization or whatever they hell they call it. If I remember right, that makes the goal level 4 for a subclass.

Other than that I don't remember any particular class or build be super broken but that you would need a fairly diverse party if you want to survive.

GulMadred posted:

Open the "Rolls History" window. Most of the numbers that appear in there are hyperlinks. If you're consistently missing the enemy, or inflicting minimal damage, then click on the numbers and find out why. For instance, it's a very bad idea for a rogue to backstab a skeleton, and the game is kind enough to give you a line-by-line breakdown of the underlying rules/statistics.

Use the Ctrl button to bind radial menu selections onto hotkeys. By doing so, you can streamline your standard combat actions (e.g. Charge attack) and spells (e.g. "Cure light wounds") and reduce the risk of wasted actions due to fat-fingering the radial menu. While we're on the subject: scan through the radial menu every once in a while. You may not have realized that one of your characters gained a new ability (such as "rapid shot") during a recent levelup, or you may have forgotten about old ones (such as "smite evil").

If you have a character in a good tactical position and want to wait for the enemy to approach, left-click their character portrait in the initiative bar (top of the screen) and drag it left/right until they appear at the desired spot in the initiative order. Example: your rogue will tend to win initiative rolls. You could run in and stab a flatfooted enemy for bonus damage, but it puts your rogue at risk. Instead, you might want to rearrange things so that your fighter or cleric charges in first and then have the rogue backstab a foe who is already engaged.

It's quite possible to wipe out your party by wandering blindly into around a corner and meeting an excessive number of level-appropriate foes. You can set a formation for your party, but it tends to get disrupted enroute and so your toughest characters won't necessarily be on the frontlines when combat begins. Instead, it's a good idea to scout ahead using an invisible character or rogue. In the latter case, you must activate the "Sneak" movement mode; enemies will instantly spot a stealthy character who is moving normally (or even standing still, if Sneak is off).

Assuming you can detect that same group of level-appropriate foes early, then you have lots of options:
-find an alternate route. Enemy groups are sedentary (no roaming patrols), and there's usually 2-3 paths through any dungeon section (although you may need a skilled rogue to find those paths)
-retreat, heal, replenish spells, and even (if necessary) recruit new allies
-try to open hostilities by catching most of the enemy group in an area-effect spell (or by backstabbing the enemy healer)
-find a defensible bottleneck and lure the enemy into it

Archers don't deal much damage compared to melee fighters or casters. The best use for them that I've found is suppressing enemies via the "Tactical" slice of the radial menu. You can disrupt a mage's spell or stop a charging enemy in his tracks... but only if you actually hit them. Therefore, it's important to position archers tactically and keep a clear line-of-sight; if you start firing over/through/into a scrum then you're going to suffer serious penalties on your rolls. You also need to predict the enemy's actions to some degree; if you tell your ranger to "Wait for spell" and nobody casts one, then he's just going to stand there looking stupid until his next turn.

Take your time when leveling up and choosing spells for your arcance casters (sorceror, bard, wizard). You'll feel outgunned in the early stages so it's tempting to focus purely on offense (e.g. what's going to inflict the most damage, to the most foes, in the least time?). However, a 2nd-level direct damage spell won't be of much use in the endgame, while a 2nd-level buff/debuff might still be useful. A few pointers:
-fog/mist spells can render enemy archers impotent
-a berserk enemy is very dangerous (due to bonus damage), and hard to kill (due to bonus hitpoints). A simple "Calm Emotions" spell will remove both of those bonuses
-the game will throw a lot of magical loot at you, but if you want to specialize your characters in unusual weapons then you'll probably need to enchant your own weapons for maximum effect. Consider taking the "Craft Magic Arms and Armor" feat early (to sneak a peek at the prerequisites list), and choose spells accordingly
-a blind enemy is a lesser threat and an easier target. The glitterdust spell will enable you to blind several enemies simultaneously
-some spells have materials costs which are easy to overlook if you aren't familiar with D&D rules, but such factors are listed in the spell description. Stoneskin costs 100gp IIRC.

Almost every locked chest that you find will also be trapped. Unless you have a rogue in your party, you might as well just leave them alone. Note: you can recruit a rogue henchman if you didn't include one in your main party. On the bright side, the game doesn't have any "free-floating" traps, so you're don't need to spam the "Search for traps" key every five feet.

Druid is a good, well-rounded class (animal companions and summoned animals make great meatshields), but shapeshifting in ToEE is a waste of time.

Identify magic items before selling them. It costs 100gp to do so, but most magic items are worth >100gp so you'll come out ahead. If you don't identify them then you'll get screwed on the price. Exception: don't identify scrolls. Use "Read Magic" (0-level spell) or the "Decipher script" skill instead (they're both free).

Lars Blitzer posted:

Echoing what he said, plus there are mods out for it. This group seems to be the most active with added content and such, plus patches that correct a few things that Troika didn't touch on: http://www.co8.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=31. Feel free to look around. I think they're still working on doing Keep On The Borderlands, but the latest content pack has fistloads of side quests and locations that Troika didn't include for whatever reason.

One thing you should get in your party is a spokesman: High CHA, possibly the Negotiator or a relevant skill focus Feat, maybe make him/her a Half Elf since they get a +2 racial bonus to Diplomacy (your main conversation-type skill) and Gather Information (still useful, but not as often), and finally choose a class that complements being a suave motherfucker: Paladin, Bard, Rogue (my go-to choice), or even a Sorcerer will do in a pinch.

Finally, if you feel the need, you can cherry pick your stats with a bug that made it through all the patches. When rolling for stats, click on the tab for buying your stats, you'll notice the box you're supposed to click and drag the rolled/bought stat to is gone. Just pump up one stat to whatever you want, click and drag over to where one of the boxes was, then switch back to rolling randomly. You'll see the stat in the corresponding box now. Lather, rinse, repeat with the rest of your stats and go hog wild, or deliberately gimp yourself will all 3s. Whatever butters your muffin.

EDIT: On one run through try the following: Chaotic Good, Exotic Weapon Proficiency (Bastard Sword). Why? There's a sweet sweet rapetrain of a bastard sword Fragarach you can get your grubby little mitts on.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Ainsley McTree posted:

I haven't played the PC version, but I've played the games to death on the 360 (2 in particular) and it honestly hadn't even occurred to me until your post that there would be mods for the game.
The PC version exposes a lot of config files; I liked being able to mess around with them after getting bored with the standard rules. Examples:
1) Increase magazine size for the laser-sighted pistol.
2) Allow biotic abilities to penetrate shields.
3) Reduce or eliminate global ability cooldowns.

I combined 2 and 3 to create a "mage" adept who could have beaten the game without ever firing a shot (not that I did; laser pistol is too much fun).

The PC version also allows you to import custom faces. I found it to be a letdown because you can import, let's say, a painstakingly-grizzled hispanic guy... but then the voice acting feels inappropriate for the character. YMMV.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Ainsley McTree posted:

Dawn of War II
Google results
I'd recommend playing through the single-player campaigns in order because:
a) they're chronological ordered and feature recurring characters; plot twists won't make sense otherwise
b) the first two have stronger storylines and characterization; the Retribution campaign is shorter and many plot points are contrived or nonsensical (due to budget limitations)

The original single-player campaign and Chaos Rising are more RPG-focused; you have a small collection of thematically-distinct squads (reconnaissance, heavy weapons, etc) each of which will greatly outclass an equivalent enemy unit. You'll acquire enough wargear and upgrade points to customize them heavily. It's possible to screw this up, but only by persistently making bad choices. You'll need considerable micromanagement skill in order to effectively use all four squads at once during missions. If you're overwhelmed, then you can deploy units which require less babysitting (e.g. dreadnought) or aim for passive rather than active skills when choosing upgrades. The attack-move command is also helful.

Retribution is more army-focused; you have a smaller set of heroes, their equipment and abilities are less powerful, and many of their skills will unlock or upgrade squads or vehicles (which are then recruited during missions via collectible resources). If you make good decisions re: deployment (e.g. troop and weapon selection, march formations, flanks, fields-of-fire) then you can generally ignore the split-second micro stuff. If your preferred strategy is "select all, right-click enemy" then you can opt to leave your glass-cannon heroes behind and swap in tougher units.


There are three main categories of multiplayer: cooperative play of the single-player campaign, RTS-style deathmatches (which are reasonably similar to the Retribution single-player game) and The Last Stand, which is a cooperative game wherein each player controls a single hero and you must try to survive against waves of enemies. Be sure to give TLS a shot at some point, but be aware that you'd need to sink dozens of hours into it in order to unlock everything.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Wisp posted:

Any tips for the first Gothic? Couldn't find anything in the first few pages, the last few or on the wiki.
Type the following into Google:
site:forums.somethingawful.com 2969807 gothic

"sexual rickshaw posted:

TO PICK UP ITEMS, TALK TO PEOPLE OR ATTACK, YOU HAVE TO HOLD DOWN CONTROL AND THE UP (OR W) KEY. That right there answers the one of the most frequently asked questions about Gothic 1.

You're weak at first, really, really weak, as in a strong gust of wind can kill your character weak. Because of that, I suggest you avoid any and all combat (unless you run into some juvenile scavengers) until you have a few levels, higher strength and a decent weapon.

Alternatively, there's a person who sells bows near the old camp (the big camp you'll find near where you're dumped at at the beginning.) If you can scrounge up the cost for a short bow + arrows (or be lucky enough to find one yourself) you can effectively weaken most low-end enemies to the point where they take 1-2 hits in melee.

In the Old Camp, there's 2 "escort" quests - do them. You won't be escorting anyone - they'll be escorting YOU. The people escorting you are nigh-invincible, strong and will kill anything that gets near them, but you'll get all the experience. Use the last fact to your advantage, as you can draw creatures to them and they'll kill them for you.

The entire game world is open at the start - the only thing preventing you from exploring is the fact that a lot of places are filled with enemies that can and will kill you at the beginning of the game. However, if you're sneaky enough, you can get by a lot of these and collect whatever loot they may be guarding.

After each chapter, new enemies will spawn in at certain locations, so if you clear out a cave of molerats in chapter 1, there may be lizards in that same cave come chapter 4.

Don't be afraid to use a lot of the plants you find - they'll be your main source of healing until you have enough for potions (or start finding them during your dungeon crawls) and they're EVERYWHERE.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Mr Wind Up Bird posted:

Warhammer 40k Dawn of War II
The game includes a lot of "hard counters" (rock-paper-scissors matchups). The original campaign introduces new unit types gradually, so you'll get a chance to discover these matchups as you encounter new types of enemies. It's possible to alter the balance via wargear (e.g. default Avitus is anti-infantry; Avitus with a lascannon is anti-vehicle), squad selection (e.g. Thaddeus cannot withstand concentrated small arms fire but Tarkus can) and character progression (e.g. the Force Commander can specialize in ranged weapons, although it's a bad idea to actually do so). Effective use of combat abilities can also shift the balance in your favour: Thaddeus will get shot to ribbons if he charges an entrenched enemy squad, but if he makes an Assault Jump into their position then he'll leave them scattered and broken.

Very few of your weapons will cause friendly fire damage. It's perfectly acceptable to charge your Force Commander into an enemy unit and then shoot indiscriminately into the resulting melee; your bullets will find their mark. Be aware that most bosses can't be permanently "tanked" in this manner; they'll walk past (or through) your fighters in order to disrupt your heavy weapons.

Zoom in occasionally. Many of the melee sync-kill animations are worth watching close-up.

Each of your squads will have a half-dozen different abilities, so you won't get full effectiveness out of them unless you have godly micromanagement skills. The co-op campaign feature cuts this workload in half, so give it a try if you're feeling overwhelmed. Retribution offers an alternative: you can swap out your micromanagement-hungry heroes in exchange for larger swarms of "dumb" units.

You have a "retreat" command (hotkey: X), which is a very effective "panic button" since retreating units receive an armor bonus and enemies will rarely pursue them (note: CPU only; human adversaries will employ nasty tricks to stunlock and slaughter your retreating forces). You can also get a lot of mileage out of the attack-move command (e.g. attack-move 3 of your squads towards the target and they'll take cover as needed, allowing you to focus your attention on micromanaging the fourth squad).

Increased difficulty does not make the CPU opponent more clever, nor does it increase the number of enemy units that you'll face. It simply gives each enemy unit greater toughness and firepower, which forces YOU to play more cleverly (e.g. by exploiting cover and denying it to the enemy).

The game is moddable, but multiplayer game modes will be locked out if you're running ANY mods at all (even if you've only messed around with the single-player campaign files). It allows for some fun possibilities, though, such as outfitting your entire tactical marine squad with flamethrowers, or replacing your Force Commander with a Howling Banshee exarch.

Once your team has reached level 20 in the original campaign, you might as well run through the final mission. It isn't necessary to complete all of the side missions. You'll notice that many of the late-appearing missions provide tantalizing wargear rewards. However, only the gear that your strike force actually CARRIES into the final mission will be imported into the Chaos Rising campaign; the rest of your armory will be lost (this isn't a bug, it's part of the story). Caveat: there are a few optional super-bosses that you might want to fight, regardless of rewards, simply to hear the post-mission party banter.

"The Last Stand" has two maps. Stick with The Bloodied Colosseum until your character reaches level 10 or so; surviving The Anvil of Khorne requires anti-vehicle firepower which low-level characters simply can't have provide.

They've fixed the major memory leak, but the game still isn't very well optimized. Be prepared to lower your graphics settings from the auto-detected defaults, especially if you're playing multiplayer.

The multiplayer chat is a terribe cesspit of racism, memes, unblockable flooding, and bitching about Steam. Matchmaking is a bit fussy because you need to select a specific game type such as 3v3 (there's no "join any game ASAP" option). This factor, combined with the small playerbase, means that you might find yourself waiting for several minutes without any apparent progress. Custom (unranked) games sometimes fill up quickly, but you can't queue for multiple matches simultaneously. If any of your Steam friends play DoWII, then you may be able to skip a lot of the multiplayer headaches via invites.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

dylan14 posted:

Tales of The Abyss
There are a few tips on the wiki already.

Fancy Google search string turns up the following additional tips.

"Nate RFB" posted:

  • Just go through the game playing it as you want and don't worry about getting everything. Some of it you can't get until a second playthrough anyway, so if you want to use a guide use it THEN.
  • It might be worth finding out Field of Fonons attacks, though. Essentially, during the course of a battle little rings will appear in certain places that correspond to one of the 6 elements. Certain Artes when performed within these rings, if they match the right element, will utilize a special move or variation of the arte. Like an upward strike will become something fire-related. These attacks are generally pretty good, and later on in the game when you get Sunshine Fon Slots you might want to pay attention to this stuff. So it might be worthwhile to look through a quick FAQ to find out which artes correspond to which elements.
  • You can equip capacity cores to help boost certain stats...however the game IIRC doesn't immediately show you how. When you start getting Capacity Cores make sure to check them out to see if they are better than the ones you currently have equipped.
  • If you want to use a Green Fon Slot for the Stealing ability, don't put it on anything for Luke. It works much better on Guy's artes.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Mr E posted:

Icewind Dale
Many of the tips on the wiki for Baldur's Gate and its sequel apply. Here's some additional IWD-specific stuff found by google:

"Ddraig" posted:

  • Icewind Dale is pretty much just a dungeon crawler in the infinity engine. There is a plot, but it's not very character driven compared to something like Baldur's Gate. From what I can remember you can create your entire party from scratch, whereas in Baldur's Gate there's NPC characters that you're encouraged to take (although you can make a custom party too)
  • All three games use AD&D 2nd edition rules, which are very different from current rules. Two stats you should learn to love are AC and THAC0
    • AC is your armour class. The lower the number the better.
    • THAC0 is "To hit armour class 0" which is basically the number a character would have to roll to hit someone with an AC of 0. If it's 5, if the person your attacking has an AC of 0 then you would need to roll a 5 or higher to hit them. The basic calculation is "THAC0 - AC" so if someone has a THAC0 of 18 and the person they're attacking has an AC of 5, they would only need to roll a 13 to be able to hit them.

"Goofballs" posted:

  • Mages start off weak then become super powerful and poo poo on everything. At low levels they are support characters. So if you have a mage in your party at the low levels they want to be casting spells like sleep. This might knock down half the enemy force and make life really simple for you even if it does no direct damage. mage direct damage spells are kind of pointless at the low levels.
  • At low levels spells you should consider are sleep, shield, mage armour, horror and mirror image
  • Fighters rule at low levels. They are harder to hit, have more hitpoints and hit really hard. They continue to be useful through the games but more as impeneterable meat shields towards the end.
  • Mages want high intelligence and high dexterity. Fighters need high strength and high constitution.
  • Your rogue or thief classes will want high dexterity not only for their thief skills but so they can be useful in combat with bows.
  • Read up on the magic system, seriously. Knowing what the right spell to cast is the difference between the party getting wiped out and the party killing everything before it.

"Astfgl" posted:

  • You want a balanced party in IWD, but remember that the more characters you take (and the more mullti-classed ones as well), the slower your party will level up. You definitely want a fighter, a thief and a cleric. Personally, I always bring a mage but some people prefer to go with a druid or bard. To me, 4 is an ideal number, (especially if one of them is multi-classed).
  • Remember, this is an old school tactical RPG so don't rush around the map. Use your thief to hide and scout, and draw enemies to you. Use the long hallways to your advantage, and when you know you're heading for a fight have your casters take a moment to put some buffs on the party. Money should be spent outfitting your front-line fighters more than anything, and making sure your ranged guys have plenty of ammo. Casters should be learning area-of-effect and control spells like Sleep and Grease and Cloud Kill.
  • Enemy mages can be easily disabled by dishing out constant damage to them. Something like the mage spell Melf's Acid Arrow or the druid spell Insect Swarm can prevent most enemy casters from getting any spells off.
  • The game is one massive dungeon crawl, so don't expect much in terms of interactivity with the story. That being said, the developers gave the Dale region a pretty rich history that goes a long way toward explaining and contextualize the massive battles you keep finding yourself in. It's worth talking to anyone who isn't hostile as they'll probably have something interesting to tell you.
  • The game is also EXTREMELY linear. You will literally not have a choice about the order in which you do dungeons, and you won't be able to further "explore" the map until you complete your current dungeon. Just roll with it. There also aren't many "choices" when it comes to how you resolve situations, but this kind of changes when you get to Lower Dorn's Deep. All of a sudden, you're presented with a bunch of options as to how to treat people or approach situations, so try not to rush through that part. It's one of the better parts of the game.
  • There are a couple times when the game will make you backtrack through like 5 empty maps to get out of a dungeon (Dragon's Eye, I'm looking at you, but the Vale was also pretty bad). In those situations, you might want to turn the debug mode on in your ini file and use the Ctrl-J cheat to teleport. You can't teleport into the fog of war, so this isn't really a game-breaking cheat, just a fast way to traverse cleared areas.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Centipeed posted:

I'm guessing that's towards the end of the game? Without any spoilers at all, could I get some hints for Mass Effect 3?
There are a few "gotcha" moments where sidequests, subplots, or minor characters will be unattainable (and/or end badly) if you miss them. It's almost entirely fluff, though; you aren't going to make the game unwinnable or even suffer any serious gameplay-difficulty consequences for it.

On the other hand, a LOT of weapons are missable and your combat effectiveness will be reduced if you stick with the starting arsenal. The Mass Effect wiki will tell you where to find most of the guns, although it has some minor spoilers (e.g. by mentioning that you find gun X on planet Y, it implies that you'll have a combat mission there).

Weapons in general are a lot less categorical in ME3. There's a full-auto sniper rifle (click here), a few assault rifles with greater single-shot stopping power than a sniper rifle, a revolver-shotgun, a slug (rather than pellet) shotgun, etc... Even if you don't like a particular type of firearm, experiment with any new ones that you find (e.g. at the SPECTRE firing range). You might be surprised. For instance, "infiltrator who snipes at long range with a heavy bolt-action sniper rifle" is an effective setup, but "infiltrator who sneaks up and blasts people in the kidneys with a giant shotgun" also works.

Powers (tech, biotic, even the soldier stuff) are stronger in ME3 than in the previous games. With the right ability choices, you can ~viably~ equip only a single lightweight gun (for fast ability cooldowns) and then rely on cover, evasion, crowd control, ability spam, squadmate powers, and melee strikes to do damage.

You have the option to change squadmate appearance. This isn't purely cosmetic. Each appearance carries a minor bonus (for instance, Liara has +25% biotic damage or +25% ability cooldown).

Paragon and Renegade choices in ME3 are definitely not "two different options for reaching a nearly-identical 'correct' outcome and/or receiving bonus experience" as they have sometimes been in the previous games. The "badass meters" have also been condensed into an overall "reputation" system, so it's possible for a nice-guy to do Renegade stuff and vice versa. Aside from fluff (who loves you, who hates you, and who dies) those choices will also impact your war score. The changes in war score aren't drastic or game-breaking, but the plot stuff is drastic. It's possible to make your character do some pretty out-of-character stuff. Remember that, when an interrupt appears, you don't necessarily have to click it. If you choose not to, then an opposite-aligned interrupt option will sometimes appear a few seconds later.

Some of the plot outcomes (e.g. character X appears, character Y survives) will be unattainable depending on your choices in ME1 and ME2. You'll need to play through a few times in order to see all of the content (or just Youtube it).

AFAIK it's possible to unlock every possible ending without touching Multiplayer, but probably not worthwhile to do so (e.g. you'd need to spend hours consulting guides and compulsively completing every sidequest, versus a few hours of actual fun* killing hordes of bad guys online).

* Fun levels vary in public matches. For best results, consult the SA thread.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Zotwoz posted:

Just about to start up Temple of Elemental Evil, what do I need to know?
The Circle of Eight mod adds a lot of content. Saved games are not portable between the regular game and the modded version, so you may want to install that before you sink a dozen hours into the game and start running into buggy or unfinished material. The Co8 stuff is linked (along with a lot of helpful suggestions) on the wiki page.

TOEE isn't a character-driven story. Every NPC can be killed, and you're not going to become personally invested in any of their stories. You might not remember the names of the characters in your party. You won't discover even a quarter of the sidequests during your first playthrough unless you're obsessive, and the rewards are so inconsequential that you won't complete those sidequests unless you're masochistic. It's all about building a well-rounded (or, in subsequent playthroughs, hilariously gimmicky) party and then beating down everything that the game can throw at you.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Nova88 posted:

Anything to know before playing Saint's Row: The Third(+DLC)?
Wiki

Thread

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Captain Beans posted:

Just started up Mass Effect 3 and imported my Shepard who was high renegade from the 2nd game yet I have no scars? Do the terminator scars not carry over?

Kind of a bummer because they looked cool as gently caress.
They'll reappear as you play the game... badassfully.

Also, don't overlook the multiplayer. It's no longer necessary to participate in it in order to get all of the possible endings, but Bioware has added a lot of free content (six new character classes and three new weapons appearing on Tuesday) and it's worth checking out.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Astfgl posted:

Because design-wise, here's why Oblivion is broken: monsters get stronger when you level up, but monster progress is automated to maximize resilience and damage output.
This is good advice/warning for new players, but it's left me wondering what other advancement paths might have been possible.

I guess the most obvious one would be stealth: you spot a weak bandit and charge in to kill him, whereupon three of his buddies emerge from the bushes and pincushion you with elven arrows.

Or perhaps you find that you can no longer finance your adventuring career with alchemy, because high-level necromancers have already flooded the trade hubs with Potions of Restore Fatigue. I know that the Radiant economy stuff was badly bugged and was stripped-out before release, but a man can dream.

Or, worst of all, the Oblivion crisis goes unresolved because that one Bandit Lord that you were tasked to assasinate turns out to have a reaaally good Persuasion skill and he convinces you to become his second-in-command. Occasionally, gazing upon the wreckage and slaughter of an ambushed merchant caravan, you sense your loyalty slipping and feel a desire to desert. But then he boasts about the strength of his warband, tells you how much he admires your service, recites a bawdy joke from the Lusty Argonian Maid, and threatens to kill your family... and somehow you feel rededicated to his service.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

fuckpot posted:

I am about to play Mass Effect 3 for the first time. I had multiple Mass Effect 2 playthroughs, and the one I was going to use as my canon playthrough I removed the scars from them that you get from being evil/good. I am transferring my 360 save to my PC so will it be as easy as trial and error to see which character has no scars to find the right save game?
The scars aren't visible in the import-character-preview screen. However, you do get a bullet-point rundown of your accomplishments (e.g. killed Wrex, replaced the Council) and sexual history, as well as your character class and alignment. If you've already figured out the 360-to-PC transfer process then you shouldn't have any trouble selecting the appropriate save file.

Note that the game assumes that your scars were healed during the ME2-to-ME3 downtime, but they'll reappear if you play ME3 badassfully.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Mayor McCheese posted:

The wiki isn't loading for me right now so I'll ask here: Does anyone have any Torchlight 2 tips?
The game is very newb-friendly, and the in-game tips explain most of the idiosyncracies.
  • You can hold down tilde (~) to move your character towards the mouse cursor. It's equivalent to moving by holding down LMB, except that it leaves LMB free (so that it can be mapped to a damage-dealing ability, without accidentally triggering that ability when you're trying to move around in combat).
  • Your re-spec potential is very limited; try to decide early on which equipment setup you'll use (e.g. 2-handed weapon vs sword-and-shield) because spreading out your points will reduce your effectiveness in combat.
    • On the flipside, your newbie skills will generally remain useful throughout the game, because they scale with either your level or your weapon DPS (or both). Many of the high-tier abilities have prohibitively high mana costs and/or long cooldowns, so they tend to supplement your old abilities rather than replacing them.
  • Don't hoard your socketable gems. Unlike the original Torchlight, you can't upgrade low-level gems into high-level ones, and so the old ones will tend to become obsolete. At all times, you should be looking to apply your *current* gems into your *current* equipment.
    • Blood ember is a good choice for armor, since it gives provides passive HP regen (thus, you'll quaff potions during tough battles, but you can generally just regenerate health between encounters and thus maintain a steady combat rythym).
    • Frost resistance is very important for melee characters, because getting chilled impairs your ability to get to grips with the enemy.
  • Enchanting is now safe (never breaks items) but is much less powerful than it was in Torchlight 1 (because you can't stack dozens on enchantments onto each item).
  • I've found that the set bonuses are pretty unimpressive; I generally get better results by mix-and-matching a few Unique items and one or two pieces from a few different sets.
  • Engineers are tanks, Embermages and Outlanders are ranged DPS, Berserkers are melee DPS.
    • The game isn't terribly forgiving about breaking these archetypes - for instance, you can create a melee Outlander who dodges most attacks and flips around constantly in combat, but you'll be a complete glass-cannon and boss fights will be very arduous (score a few hits, fail to dodge something, die, respawn, repeat).
  • Engineers can succeed with a very boring tank playstyle, but the other classes will need a steady supply of Mana in order to fuel their abilities (and stay alive). Embermages should focus on passive regen (Rift ember in armor slots) while Berserkers and Outlanders can succeed with either Mana regen or Mana-stealing weapons.
  • Remember that you can teach spells to your Pet. Direct-damage spells aren't terribly effective, but summoning spells can be very helpful (an automatically-replenishing posse of meatshields!). Passive abilities (e.g. Adventuring = increased magic find %) can also be taught to your pet, in case you'd like to reserve your own spell slots for the direct-damage stuff.
  • Multiplayer tends to be a bit boring for Engineers, since the other classes will often outpace you and kill enemies before you can come to grips with them. You get experience and loot anyways, but it may be a bit frustrating. YMMV.
    • Loot is instanced. Whatever you can see is yours for the taking.
  • The duration of castable buffs/debuffs are unreasonably short (the longest one that I've seen is 30 seconds), and you can easily acquire a half-dozen of them on a single character. Unless you have uber micro skillz, you won't be able to juggle them effectively in combat (alongside movement, dodging, targeting, looting, etc). I'd recommend limiting yourself to 1-2 buffs that you can cast before boss battles, and dumping the rest of your points into passive bonuses.
  • Each class has a teleport-like ability which can be useful for emergency escapes, but they generally require line-of-sight. Don't expect to teleport across chasms or through impenetrable walls.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

PerilPastry posted:

Does anyone have any tips on Dawn of War II or its expansions?
Scamtank has covered the original campaign pretty well. The wiki page has some additional tips regarding single-player and multi-player gameplay.

There have been a few DOWII posts in the thread that weren't collected into the wiki; the standard Google search string should turn them up.

Here's some stuff that I posted a while back:

GulMadred posted:

I'd recommend playing through the single-player campaigns in order because:
a) they're chronological ordered and feature recurring characters; plot twists won't make sense otherwise
b) the first two have stronger storylines and characterization; the Retribution campaign is shorter and many plot points are contrived or nonsensical (due to budget limitations)

The original single-player campaign and Chaos Rising are more RPG-focused; you have a small collection of thematically-distinct squads (reconnaissance, heavy weapons, etc) each of which will greatly outclass an equivalent enemy unit. You'll acquire enough wargear and upgrade points to customize them heavily. It's possible to screw this up, but only by persistently making bad choices. You'll need considerable micromanagement skill in order to effectively use all four squads at once during missions. If you're overwhelmed, then you can deploy units which require less babysitting (e.g. dreadnought) or aim for passive rather than active skills when choosing upgrades. The attack-move command is also helful.

Retribution is more army-focused; you have a smaller set of heroes, their equipment and abilities are less powerful, and many of their skills will unlock or upgrade squads or vehicles (which are then recruited during missions via collectible resources). If you make good decisions re: deployment (e.g. troop and weapon selection, march formations, flanks, fields-of-fire) then you can generally ignore the split-second micro stuff. If your preferred strategy is "select all, right-click enemy" then you can opt to leave your glass-cannon heroes behind and swap in tougher units.

There are three main categories of multiplayer: cooperative play of the single-player campaign, RTS-style deathmatches (which are reasonably similar to the Retribution single-player game) and The Last Stand, which is a cooperative game wherein each player controls a single hero and you must try to survive against waves of enemies. Be sure to give TLS a shot at some point, but be aware that you'd need to sink dozens of hours into it in order to unlock everything.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

A Fancy 400 lbs posted:

Also, any tips for Warlock Master of the Arcane?
I don't recall a unit-automation function; the game is click-heavy and tends to get bogged down a bit. The recent patch made some important changes, such as differentiating the various types of terrain in terms of resource output, traversal cost, and environmental hazards. Mzbundifund posted some suggestions a few months ago.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

The Moon Monster posted:

Since it just came out and I get a free copy of it, does anyone have any advice for (Elemental:) Fallen Enchantress? :v:
Update your graphics drivers. Fallen Enchantress simply refused to start (no warnings or error messages, just CTD) until I visited nvidia.com.

In-game stability and optimization seem a lot better than Elemental, but the game still dies if I ever Alt-Tab. If you notice the same problem then you should probably kill any focus-stealing applications before you try to play FE.

Compared to Elemental (and 4x games in general), the environment is quite dangerous. This was also true in Master of Magic (very nasty dudes lurking in the nodes) and Warlock (the loving gates!) but you could avoid that stuff until you were ready for it. In Fallen Enchantress, scary monsters will ambush your troops and attack your cities.

City growth is capped by food production/availability, and the game does a lousy job of notifying you when this occurs. When choosing city upgrades, I didn't see much of an impact from the "Increase Growth" stuff; I'd recommend maximizing farm ouput first.

Tactical and strategic spells are both very powerful/useful. However, be warned that the game does include a number of magic-immune enemies, and many high-tier enemies will have spell-resistance or strong elemental resistances. An "army" consisting entirely of mage champions can dominate the early game but then suddenly hit a brick wall (e.g. Obsidian golem). The magic system is flexible enough that you aren't completely screwed when this happens (e.g. you can surround it with mud to slow it down, and summon minions to chip away at it) but you'll have fewer headaches if you include some "Civilization" and "Warfare" items in your research choices.

Summon a familiar at the first opportunity. They're a useful "force multiplier" for a skilled mage, but they're very fragile and can't use equipment. By summoning it early, you can earn it a few extra levels (hence: hitpoints) and reduce the risk that it gets one-shotted in an important battle.

The game includes a fair amount of "vendor trash" loot (e.g. wolf pelts). I don't think that this stuff is involved in any quests; I've just been selling it off.

The map editor is a bit screwy; I've Saved a map, immediately re-Loaded it, and found that the whole thing has been randomized. YMMV, but I wouldn't recommend putting any effort into Content Creation until they've put in a few patches.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

VodeAndreas posted:

Quick question about Bully - unsuprisingly hard to google...

Just wondering with the flow of time, is there anything to stop me dicking around and passing all my classes and exploring for a while? Is there an actual flow of time outside of completing the main missions and a daily time cycle?
It's not that hard to Google. The advice in the thread (1 2 3) is unanimous on the subject of "explore" and "do side missions" and "take your time"; I haven't played it in years but I don't remember any screw-you timers aside from the scripted plot events (and attendance/truancy, of course).

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Sexual Aluminum posted:

I can't find the post now, but I remember someone posting a big helpful infodump on Terraria. It isn't the stuff on the wiki, it basicly broke down what armor to get, then what boss to kill, then what upgrades to shoot for, all in a nice order.

Anyone know what I am talking about?

Useful post by Male Man

[google]terraria 2969807 site:forums.somethingawful.com[/google]

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Artix posted:

So I just started Guild Wars 2 as a Necromancer (because that's mainly what I played in GW1, but I'll try out the other classes eventually). As someone who is probably only ever going to play PvE, is there anything really important to know?
Join a Guild right away. Most of them will offer "free" permanent buffs (e.g. 10% magic find boost) and will give you access to content that's otherwise inaccessible (Guild Missions). Your normal gameplay activities generate a hidden form of currency ("Influence") which accrues to your Guild; if you don't have a Guild then these Influence points are simply lost (and meanwhile you miss out on the minor buffs as well as Guild chat).

Guild Wars 2 uses two damage types: direct damage attacks (governed by the Power, Precision, and Crit Damage statistics) and damage-over-time conditions (governed by Malice and Condition Duration).

Most Necromancer builds will rely heavily on Conditions, but they're decidedly inferior for PvE play (note: PvP is a different story). The most obvious limitation is that Conditions have a stacking limit. If you have a few Necromancers or Rangers grouped together (e.g. against a big world boss, or in a dungeon party) then your damage output will decline (and it wasn't stellar to begin with). The other problem is that your direct-damage teammates will tend to kill enemies too quickly. That may sound like a silly complaint, but Necromancers can pull off some neat tricks after stacking a whole load of conditions onto a foe (such as copy-pasting those conditions onto ALL nearby foes); these tricks don't work if the target dies before you can complete the combo.

Overall, Necromancers and Rangers are fairly underpowered in PvE gameplay, and consequently disfavoured by metagamers - you'll have difficulty finding a public group for high-level dungeons. You may want to activate one of your other character slots and try out another profession for a while. Or take your Necromancer into PvP.

Try not to grind. Regardless of character level, you're never "locked in" to one particular map. If you feel bored or frustrated, then go somewhere else. For instance, you can visit another race's starter zone. Your experience/gold rewards will diminish slightly, but you'll get bonuses for exploration.

Also - set a long-term goal for yourself. GW2 includes a fair amount of RNG bullshit, but many goals (e.g. "explore 100% of the map", "acquire a full suit of Exotic armour", "obtain the Dungeon Master title") will involve incremental progress which can keep you interested. I would advise against pursuing a Legendary weapon, though. I wasted an embarassing amount of time in crafting one of them, but then it promptly disappeared during a patch and Support refused to do anything about it (yeah, yeah, 1stWorldProblems.txt).

If you visit the official forums, be aware that they have an excessively vigilant profanity filter. "AFK" becomes "Akitten". It can be a bit confusing at first.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Project1 posted:

If I liked Space Empires IV as a poor man's Master of Orion, should I try V? The mention of real time battles troubled me, is it just a realtime animation (which is pointless considering the series, but acceptable) or is it like a mini RTS?
Mini-RTS. You can Pause as much as you want to micromanage, and use time dilation/compression depending on the scale of the battle. You'll get reasonable results by simply unpausing. By default, ships will choose a target, approach to their optimum firing range, and let loose. In larger battles (or when using specialized ship designs) you may want to manage things more carefully (e.g. ordering fighter wings to stay away from point defenses). IIRC the auto-battle behaviour can be tweaked in the Ship Design window, allowing you to setup missile boats with kiting behaviour. There are also special components (such as boarding teams and self-destruct systems) which *must* be micromanaged in order to be effective. All of the normal weapons are omnidirectional (no "firing arcs") which reduces depth a bit, but also allows the auto-battle AI to function well (since it doesn't have to perform complex maneuvers in order to bring all of its guns to bear).

It differs quite a bit from the MOO combat experience, but I found it to be enjoyable. One nice thing about SE5 combat is that "chase actions" actually exist - instead of ships simply hitting "Retreat" and then vanishing into hyperspace, they need to actually reach the boundary of the combat area. Thus, a fleet of heavy battleships will have great difficulty in forcing an inferior enemy force to commit to battle, but a mixed fleet with fighter support (and/or fast pickets with immobilization weapons) can catch up to retreating ships and inflict damage on them.

There's also a "Strategic" battle mode, where you just view a zoomed-out radar map of the battle with heavy time compression. It's pretty similar to Auto-Resolution. The "Tactical" mode is typically used when:
  • you *want* to view a battle close-up and micromanage a bit (for fun)
  • you've put a lot of effort into researching and deploying a new kickass ship design, and now you want to see it PEW PEW some bug-eyed aliens
  • you've reached a difficult/important battle and you don't want to leave anything to chance
  • the enemy has deployed a new ship type which is causing a lot of damage to your fleets; you need to see it in action so that you can develop countermeasures

The main problem/risk/challenge that I found in SE5 was tech levels. If you out-research your opponents too much then fun tends to diminish. At high difficulty, the AI will resource-cheat and build dozens of ships each turn, but if your ships have {quantum reactors | organic self-healing armour | AI crews | armor-bypassing temporal warheads | etc} then they're basically unkillable, and the fights become more "tedium" than "strategy". The endgame challenge is more about stellar engineering than conquest. The early- and mid-game experience is still pretty fun, but you might find yourself abandoning a game (and starting a new one) whenever you begin to outclass your enemies.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Brasseye posted:

Id be much obliged if anyone has any advice for The Last Remnant on PC. It looks really confusing.
Decide quickly whether you want to finish the game or complete it. If you're not interested in 100% then you can ignore most of the advice below; the game difficulty (mostly) scales with your level.
  • Save often.
  • Be aware that the game includes many player-abusive JPRG tropes.
    • It's possible to lock yourself out of optional quests, and even entire optional areas, permanently if you do things in the wrong order.
    • Important game mechanics, abilities, tactics, etc... will be absent until you advance the plot far enough to reveal them; the early section of the game is a pseudo-tutorial which you're forced to run through on every subsequent playthrough. If you start grinding early, then it's possible that you'll give up in frustration before the game has revealed its full set of features.
    • It's possible to reduce the effectiveness of your characters by failing to specialize them properly. It isn't possible to truly gimp them, unless you deliberately disable ALL of their weapon skill and mystic arts.
    • There are hidden statistics and counters for factors such as skill progression, rare enemy spawns, companion weapon upgrades, etc... As a consequence, many gameplay outcomes feel highly random and you may be forced to replay sections (grind) if you're trying to achieve something specific.
  • If you have a sufficiently-large union (4 members?) all using magic attacks, and they're the correct magic attacks, and everyone has enough AP, then the individual attacks get replaced by a ridiculously-powerful AoE attack (such as Blackout).
    • Very rarely, enemy unions will accidentally trigger the same effect (since they use the same gameplay mechanics as your unions). The result is usually a Game Over.
  • I'd recommend switching the QTE triggers to automatic. The core aspect of gameplay is tactical; you'll see the various attack animations so many times that you'll probably stop paying attention to them (I sometimes found myself taking my hands off the keyboard entirely after pressing "Go"), and if you're using manual triggers then you'll probably miss them and get annoyed.
  • Spend a few minutes on the wiki to learn about status effects. Stuff like poison can usually be ignored (since characters won't reliably clear it even when ordered to use recovery abilities, the per-round damage is low enough that you can usually finish the fight normally, and it clears automatically when the fight ends). "Cursed" is a much more serious problem.
  • After major plot developments, you'll sometimes find that your union capacity has been increased. If you're powergaming, then you'll probably want to deploy as many unions as possible (but with fewer members in each). Large unions are more likely to be flanked, but they have a deeper HP pool which makes them more forgiving (incoming damage is partially divided among members, so the entire team tends to remain standing until the union HP falls below ~30%). Either way, be sure to recruit any highly-skilled mercenaries or special characters that you run across.
  • Special characters will use their special ablities only when assigned as union leaders. You can organize your team however you want, of course. But if you're looking for "Limit Break" stuff then let the voiced characters take command.
  • The crafting system is a giant pain-in-the-rear end. Last time that I played, I just used a memory editor to give myself 99 of each component. I don't regret doing so. gently caress grind forever.
  • If you manage to capture an enemy alive (usually because you used the Knockout effect, but it sometimes happens randomly when dealing lethal damage) then you'll get an option at the end of the battle. "Split" means "split the monster open and harvest its rare components." "Keep" means "take it with us so that we can subsequently sell it to a chef for lots of money." This isn't a moral choice; the monster is going to die either way. Just decide whether you want the components or the cash.
  • By default, party members manage their own inventory while you can equip only the protagonist. You can upgrade party equipment by performing incredibly tedious fetch quests for them at randomly-triggered moments. At other random times, they'll offer to replace their current weapon with something selected at-random from the party inventory (and you're not allowed to open the inventory to make a comparison; you're given only a Yes/No prompt!). gently caress that noise. You're a PC gamer, you have text editing powers. Assume direct control.

Advice from Gerblyn
  • Your battle rank goes up as you kill monsters, and certain enemies and fights will scale up with your rank. I only had trouble with one fight because of it though, so it's not a big deal.
  • If you're having trouble with a fight with lots of monsters, try putting Dave in charge of a union. Occasionally he pulls a special move that will literally kill everything on the field. Similarly, a few other leaders get special moves that they only use when in charge of a union.
  • A huge number of areas and quests in this game are missable. The only real way to make sure you don't miss something important is to visit every Pub and speak to everyone with a red bubble on their heads before you go to advance the plot. Every time you advance the plot. With a couple of minor exceptions, there's almost never a reason to talk to anyone without a red bubble.
  • Characters get better at using arts by using them. Even if the attack is queued and never fires, the character will still get some XP for it. This means you should never just choose straight attack, always get your guys to use arts, regardless of how weak an enemy is. Note that the union leader is far more likely to use arts than anyone else.
  • Choose a weapon type for Rush and stick with it, just about everything works, though sword and board or dual wield seem best for an all rounder.
  • This game has the most ridiculously overcomplicated crafting system I have ever encountered, you will end up with literally hundreds of different components. Many components will only be dropped after you get a particular magazine as a quest reward for completing a guild task.
  • If a character explicitly asks for a component, that means it is somehow possible to get it without advancing the plot. It may not be worth the hassle however of explicitly looking for it though, since occasionally the characters change their minds about the items they want for no apparent reason.
  • Look out for rare monsters (they have green names when you select them) early on they may obliterate you, but it's always worth trying to kill them. Many union tasks require you to kill rares and trying to get them to spawn deliberately can be an amazing pain in the rear end.
  • Look out for the characters you recruit hanging round in the town you recruited them in. If you find one, then speak to them, go back to the world map and then go speak to them again. Repeat until you feel your sanity beginning to crack. After a while, they'll show red bubbles, and after enough red bubbles you'll get a special stat bonus for them. Sometimes they'll give you a quest first, and you need to speak to them again after doing it to get the bonus. Also, sometimes you'll need to advance the plot to a certain point before you can get their bonus/quest. For a couple of people, doing their quests will unlock their supermoves.
  • If you're a completionist, you will need this website:
    The Last Remnant Guide
    You'll also need the patience of a saint and vast amounts of time.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Project1 posted:

Some really good tips here, thank you. Any reason I should play on a harder level, other than that Beginner is for losers like me?
At "Beginner" difficulty, aliens suffer an enormous penalty to their Accuracy statistic. As a consequence, you'll become very lazy about tactics because aliens will tend to miss shots even at close range. You might find yourself scattering your aquanauts all over the map in order to find and eliminate aliens more quickly.

Unfortunately, this approach will fail catastrophically when you begin to encounter a certain late-game enemy (Tentaculats) which do not rely on Accuracy. Those monsters can usually kill a lone soldier (no matter how elite he might be). Belatedly, you'll realize the importance of buddy-system patrols, motion scanners, proximity mines, smoke grenades and flares, expendable scouts, long-range covering fire, etc... However, you might get so frustrated at the sudden "shift" in difficulty (and the loss of your elite soldiers) that you begin to savescum or just stop playing the game completely.

Higher difficulty levels force you to treat rank-and-file enemies with more respect. Either you'll learn good tactics, or you'll get accustomed to taking casualties, or both (preferably both - that's the true XCOM experience).

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

RatHat posted:

How do you search this thread with Google? The method in the wiki doesn't seem to work anymore.
site:forums.somethingawful.com 2969807 "Pac-Man 9: The Final Reckoning"

2969807 is the thread id. The search results obtained in this manner have high sensitivity and specificity.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Aratoeldar posted:

Master of Magic

Is there anyway to get rid of the Death Spells Famine and Pestilence and their effects?
Do you remember "Dispel Magic"? It's one of the first things that you'll research, and you'll usually forget that it exists. There's a later version of it called "Disenchant Area" which can also remove town effects such as Famine. Boost the mana input a bit (to improve the odds of success) and then cast it on the cursed town. If it fails, try casting it again with a greater boost. You'll need to cast Disenchant Area separately on each of your cursed cities.

Note: If you're using the Sorcery school, then you probably have access to an improved version called Disenchant True.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

McCoy Pauley posted:

2) The last item in the wiki entry for this game says "Lockpicking and hacking are needed to and pass all missions, unless you cheat, so take your pick, as having both at once is difficult." I assume there's a typo in there, but I'm not sure what it is -- is the bottom line I need to pick one of lockingpicking or hacking, because I can't have both?
Skill points are limited, and Vampire (while a good game) isn't Deus Ex - there's a lot of unavoidable fighting. If you attempt to max out all of your social, technical, and utility skills then you'll need to sacrifice stealth and/or combat ability. As a result, you'll find fights to be unreasonably difficult and you may have to savescum a lot in order to survive (which gets frustrating very quickly).

Lockpicking and Hacking belong to different skill lines, so you should probably pick one. Or just cheat a bit and then invest your extra points in non-combat skills, so that you can get more gameplay options without trivializing the combat sections.

Sorry, I can't help with the installation errors except for generic advice: "run in compatibility mode," "disable any multi-monitor stuff that you're running," "ensure that your display drivers are up to date."

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Mayor McCheese posted:

I got the classic Master of Magic from GOG's recent sale and it's been yeeeeeaaars since I last played it and the wiki has no entries. Even better if you have tips so I can break it right open.
  • Many of the words and icons in the various menus have a built-in contextual help; if something is unfamiliar or confusing then try right-clicking on it.
  • If you're just starting out, then you should probably choose a Life or Nature wizard (Ariel or Freya IIRC) and use Orcs or High Men. The resulting playstyle is roughly similar to Civilization - you gradually build up cities and armies, use magic to improve both, perform research, and expand until your borders meet those of your rivals.
    • Some of the other races sacrifice a lot of civilization/industry for combat bonuses - to play them effectively you'll need to be very aggressive (hence, wait until you're more familiar with the game).
    • Death magic plays very differently, since it offers few boosts to your cities or armies - it focuses on undermining those of your rivals. It's also fairly weak in the early phase of the game, because a lot of low-level monsters are completely immune to it.
    • The Myrran races each have a powerful bonus, but the Myrran trait is expensive (3 points) and the environmental challenges in Myrror (such as node guardians) are stronger. Again, it's an interesting experience but one which is best postponed until you have a grasp of the basics.
    • Your empire can become multiracial! Just conquer a city of a different race (it can be a neutral city, or one belonging to a rival wizard), choose not to Raze it, and then build it up and start cranking out its specialized units. This approach relies on luck, of course - you might not be able to find a Troll city on your map.
  • Your industrial capacity and gold income will grow with your empire, but magical power grows very slowly.
    • The most effective way to increase it is to find an elemental node, defeat its guardians (you may need to gain a few levels or use clever tactics), summon a Magic Spirit (or Guardian Spirit if you specialize in Life Magic), move the spirit to the node, and use the Meld command.
    • Of course, you might also get lucky and find that one of your rivals has cleared a Node - you can swoop in and claim it with a Spirit.
    • Unfortunately, your rivals can do the same thing to you - sending a Spirit to a Node which you've cleared and claimed (note: this is not considered a hostile act, and allied wizards will potentially do it to you). In the mid- to late- phase of the game, you'll probably want to garrison a weak infantry on each of your Nodes in order to prevent opponents from stealing them.
  • Magical power that you gain will automatically be allocated into three functions: generating mana (the "currency" with which you cast spells), casting skill (the total amount of mana that you can spend per turn - including overworld summons, combat spells, new enchantments, item creation, etc), and research points. You can alter the allocation by fiddling with sliders, but beginners should probably refrain from doing so until they have a strong grasp of how these three functions relate to gameplay.
    • For example, you might think "I've made peace with my neighbours and I don't need any new enchantments at the moment, so I'll reduce my Casting Skill slider. That will accelerate my research and allow me to build up a big surplus of mana for my next war." That's clever, but if a rampaging monster suddenly attacks one of your cities then your wizard might be able to contribute only one or two weak spells to its defence. If the city is weakly-garrisoned then it will probably fall.
  • You can convert Gold into Mana, and vice-versa. You'll suffer a 50% loss in each conversion, unless your wizard has the "Alchemist" trait. Still, it's a useful crutch which allows your industrial economy to boost your magical resources (or vice versa).
  • The attack and defense statistics use a binomial distribution. Each attack pip represents a separate opportunity to "roll the dice" and has a 30% chance of scoring a hit. Once you've determined the total amount of damage, the defending unit gets a roll for each of its defense pips, again at 30%. If it makes enough rolls, it may completely negate your damage.
    • There are some skills and attributes (such as "+1 to hit" or "eldritch weapon") which modify the percentages involved.
    • If your attacks are consistently failing to do damage, then it's likely that the enemy either has a very strong defense stat or a special property (such as "incorporeal" or "weapon immunity"). You could consult a FAQ to figure out the exact calculations, but this is basically the game's way of telling you "try something else." Maybe you need to train a unit of Priests and add some ranged magic attacks to your army. Maybe you need a tough unit of Shieldbreak infantry to tie down the enemy while your archers feather it. Maybe you could try hitting the unit with a boosted Lightning Bolt spell to overcome its heavy armor.
    • To maximize your damage output, you should look for a combination of pure "attack boost" equipment/enchantments, and a few "to-hit" boosts. Units will naturally acquire both of these as they gain levels, but you'll sometimes be given a choice (e.g. when crafting magic weapons).
    • Because it's possible to completely negate incoming damage, a Hero unit with very high defense (eg. from the "Dodge" attribute) can become nigh-invincible to weapons even though its HP pool is tiny. Remember that such units will still be vulnerable to magic spells and special attacks.
    • If the attacking unit contains multiple figures, then the attack stat will be multiplied by the number of remaining figures (this effect is not indicated on the unit's information page). At low levels, a lone hero might be defeated in melee combat by a single infantry unit. Multi-figure units will also decline in power as they suffer attrition due to combat damage.
    • The defense and resistance stats are not multiplied by the number of figures in the defending unit, so kiting is a viable tactic (chip away at an approaching unit - maybe knock out half of its figures before it reaches your army - now it's fighting at half strength and you can engage in melee combat at favourable odds).
  • The standard powergaming strategy is to devote most of your resources to a single stack of high-level units with a lot of permanent enchantments (e.g. flight, invisibility, regeneration, teleportation, etc). The AI is not smart enough to deliberately spread its forces and attack on multiple fronts, so your doomstack can wipe out its armies and then conquer its cities.
    • This strategy gets boring very quickly because the AI is not clever enough to deploy specific countermeasures (such as "true sight" to neutralize your Invisibility).
    • The real fun in Master of Magic lies in restricting yourself to a particular theme or set of units, so that the AI's weakness is less significant and the "environmental" challenges (such as elemental nodes) require some actual planning and tactics.
    • The simplest theme is one based on schools of magic. If you specialize in Death magic, then try summoning a few Werewolves to accompany your hero. If you've got Chaos, then try fielding a small army with heavy fire-support from your wizard.
    • You can also get creative - perhaps you're playing an anti-social Libertarian wizard who refuses to pay wages to a standing army, so you rely entirely on summoned units ("mercenaries") and flying boats ("privateers") backed up by Fireballs spells ("ICBMs").

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Aratoeldar posted:

Quick Master of Magic question, is there any way to get rid if pestilence once it is put on one of your cities?

I looked on the MoM wiki but I didn't see anything.
Disenchant Area.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Centipeed posted:

I'm personally looking for hints on Tomb Raider (2013), but the thread search isn't working and it's not got a page on the wiki.
Google may be misbehaving, but the built-in SA forums search feature still works.
  • Always try being stealthy. Even if you only stealth kill 2 or 3 guys, then when poo poo goes loud you are dealing with a group with a few less bad guys.
  • Don't play it like a standard cover shooter, you're a lot better moving and shooting, and switching it up as often as you can. If you sit in one spot and just pop out to shoot at guys you'll get set on fire a lot.
  • You don't need to grind every collectible unless you really want to or you need XP.
    • If you do, look for treasure maps which help a lot in finding them.
  • You can backtrack to most places to collect things you missed. Salvage is useful to collect, the weapon upgrades are pretty awesome.
  • If you're playing on PC, the QTEs have a reputation for sometimes being a giant pain in the rear end - though I think a recent patch made them less painful.
    • Don't hammer as fast as you can, try matching what's on screen.
    • Also, the shrinking circle QTE wants you to hit the button while the shrinking circle is *inside* the static circle.
    • I thought it was when it *matched* the static circle my first play-through which caused me no end of pain.
    • Once you figure out the QTEs they're not too bad.
  • As someone who's playing thru Tomb Raider right now I can back up the worthlessness of the salvage from animals skill. There's a few wolves at the start as enemies but after that the whole hunting thing seems to be forgotten about and it's human enemies (mostly) all the way.
  • Arrow retrieval might seem a bit useless as there is an abundance of arrows everywhere but it ties into a tier 2 skill which nets you extra ammo for looting corpses.
  • Orienteering was quite useful as using survival instinct reveals nearby relics/documents etc on your map long before finding the treasure maps. Completing the relic sets nets you a good chunk of xp towards another upgrade too.
  • Always be looting corpses and ammo caches as they randomly contain weapon parts to upgrade your weapons, and you can't develop them further until you find enough parts.
  • It's actually not trivially easy to max out all your skills and weapon upgrades throughout the game, so picking the skills that give you more XP and resources whenever you get some early will come in handy.
  • Along those lines, while you may get bored of looking for all the hidden challenge items, it does pay off to look for crates with resources in them. Use the special vision thingy (in fact, do this a lot in general because it's pretty handy) to spot them easily. Sometimes they're hanging in nets which you have to incinerate to fall down.
  • Using stealth and killing enemies off one by one without others noticing it (bow, silenced pistol) can really make things a lot more easy, so opt for that whenever you get the chance. If you fail half-way through, you can still hose them down with the rifle or any other gun, but now you'll have half as many enemies charging at you at once.
  • Once you get the grenade launcher, make sure to make use of it. I ended up running around with grenades stocked to the limit most of the time and still ran into crates with new ones because I apparently used it far less than I was supposed to.
    • The game is actually pretty good about placing grenades in spots where you will be likely to use them, so do it!
  • Good way to find the hidden objects in each level is to think 'if I were a developer, and I wanted to hide something in the most out of the way place that no one would look, where would I place it?' Guaranteed you will find the last object in that spot.
  • Don't try to play it like a cover shooter.
    • Move around!
    • Get in their faces and use melee.
    • Use dodge a lot.
    • This makes the fighting much more fun. It also has the most satisfying bow play I've ever seen.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Elendil004 posted:

I also don't recall a tutorial explaining what the slider under all the weapon talents means.
I can't help you with Blackguards specifically (haven't played it), but it sounds like you're running into trouble with the TDE game system in general.

Those sliders determine offensive or defensive specializing. So you can setup a character who's really good at hitting people with a zweihander but has great difficulty parrying an incoming blow (e.g. a berserker). Or a fencer who specializes in rapiers but focuses on defense (his attack rolls will be lousy, but he might be able to deal damage with his active abilities instead of auto-attacks). Maybe your party will have a mix of melee attackers and defenders, or just a few melee defenders who keep the enemy busy while the archers and mages do damage. By default, I expect that the game will allocate points evenly between attack and defense. Try specializing a few weapon skills* and see whether your results improve. The pen-and-paper game actually applies a bias to many weapon types (e.g. a rapier is naturally suitable for parrying while a battle-axe is not); I don't know whether this was included in Blackguards. If you stick with standard tropes then you shouldn't run into too many surprises.

* In other TDE games you were forced to make the attack/parry point allocation during levelup and couldn't reassign them later. If Blackguards allows on-the-fly respec then "great!", if not then you might need to start a new campaign with lessons learned.

If your attacks are hitting but doing zero damage then you may need to reconsider your character builds. Bigger weapons tend to hit harder, but statistics are also relevant (Strength, Courage, etc). If you've deployed a whole squad of dagger-wielding intellectuals then you might need to start over. If you've been spreading your talent points too thinly across the spectrum then the same problem arises - maybe you'll need to start over and specialize each character in just one or two weapon types rather than trying to master them all (hint: you'll never have enough points to do that).

Another possibility is that the game failed to explain its leveling system. In previous titles you would gain adventure points (AP) gradually, which could be used to improve skills and weapon specialization "between" the actual level-up moments. Perhaps the game feels too difficult because you have a large stockpile of character-improvement credit waiting to be spent.

Finally: armor rating. These are "soak" values - they don't help to deflect blows; they simply subtract a flat amount from any incoming damage. I remember that it was most relevant when fighting humanoid opponents in previous games (a full plate wearer could shrug off many auto-attacks and I had to hope for critical hits or use armor-bypassing active skills); the previous games tended to balance monsters by giving them 0 armor rating but lots of HP. Maybe Blackguards has tried to increase consistency in its combat encounters, by giving significant armor values to its monsters. Or maybe they've implemented D&D-style damage resistances (e.g. need blunt damage against skeletons?).

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

madpanda posted:

Since all of the wiki page bodies appear to be empty, had someone else check it also, anything on Wizardry 8
It seems to be some sort of rendering bug. Just hit the "View Source" button and you'll be able to see all of the text.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Morpheus posted:

I just bought Guild Wars 2, and checked out the wiki - are there any recommendations for stuff like crafting professions? It says I can switch them out 'for a fee', how big is that fee? Should I worry about it, or will it just be a small part of my gold at a given time?
Think of it as a "respec" cost: something that you do occasionally to enhance your gameplay experience. You can safely experiment with a few different professions as you're growing up. You'll retain skill levels in the abandoned ones, so you can switch back to them later on (e.g. when you've maxed the first set of skills and want to max them all for Achievements).

It's possible to "juggle" three or more professions (e.g. return to town, craft a bunch of Leatherworking stuff, switch to Artificing, brew some potions, switch to Blacksmithing, make a new sword, run a few quests, return to town again, etc) but you should not do so. I made that mistake early on, and quickly burned all of my money on respec fees.
  • Join a guild. Guilds receive income from player participation (e.g. logging in, doing quests, exploring) so there isn't too much elitism or exclusivity, and they'll probably be happy to have you as an active member even if you never participate in their scheduled events.
  • You can join multiple guilds simultaneously, but that's sort of "advanced feature" and you might get kicked if you don't understand the Representation mechanic. Just stick to one guild at first.
  • Always have a food buff. Don't buy food except when preparing for a dungeon raid. Your guild bank will be full of surplus food which was made by various players as they leveled their Cooking profession; grab a stack of <whatever> and chow them down as you're exploring.
  • Legendary weapons aren't worth the trouble. It looks neat, but then it mysteriously disappears from your inventory and the Support team just says "the logs show nothing" and jesus christ that was months ago why am I still bitter about it
  • If you see a big crowd of players standing around, take a look around. If they have a lot of different guild tags, then there probably a "world event" beginning shortly. Ask about it, and someone will probably take pity on your noob self and explain. You may be able to get some exp/loot just for hanging around with them and participating in a confusing scrum for a few minutes.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Tenzarin posted:

I need tips for farming simulator 2013.
You're supposed to check the wiki and search the thread before making requests.

Captain Novolin's advice is useful for starting out, but once you reach the level cap you're going to need to adjust your playstyle (especially if you're looking to participate in the pro multiplayer scene). net cafe scandal was kind enough to offer some tips:

net cafe scandal posted:

The corn extruders you start out with are woefully inefficient. Your first priority should be upgrading them to titanium.

You'll be tempted to fill your entire lot with winter squash. While winter squash does have a reassuringly low mutation rate, this is a shortsighted use of grid space. Instead, consider christmas trees.

If you have a problem with unruly pigs, make sure other animals aren't accidentally getting caught in the grain processor. After feeding pigs, examine the trough for inedible animal parts such as bones or feathers.

Not keeping your stables clean will likely result in more horse abscesses than you're equipped to handle. While lancing is a quick and relatively easy method to treat an abscess, it will severely demoralize your horses.

Hay is practically useless. I'm not even sure why it's in the game.

Rival farmers getting too much attention at the farmer's market? Don't be afraid to put some heat on the competition. Be creative.
There's also a great LP series on Youtube.

GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

Gyshall posted:

Anything for Aarklash: Legacy
It's been a long time since I played it so I can't recall any specific combat pointers, but the really crucial thing is:
  • This is a combat game.
    • It starts off with an interesting premise ("Okay, so this is a heist mission? And my party is the fantasy equivalent of Repo Men? And their social status in this world is some combination of 'debt slave' and 'elite special forces operative'? And my tank is a steampunk-satyr and she's being healed by a werewolf?"). The game sprinkles in some tantalizing backstory and character development. It also does a good job of introducing new gameplay mechanics and tactical wrinkles, and includes a good mix of content (exploration, intra-party dialogue, puzzles, optional very-hard boss fights, etc).
    • Towards the end, the writers either slacked off or ran out of ideas, and the game falls into a pattern of "Defeat this group of baddies to unlock the next room. Repeat 20 times. Cutscene." The interesting premise also gets shelved in favour of a generic "save the world from some evil jerk" fantasy script.
    • If you aren't enjoying the combat, then don't depend on the story or puzzles to sustain your interest.
    • I got bored around the 3/4 mark and cheated heavily so that I could stroll through the fights, but I still couldn't bring myself to actually finish the game :(
  • One thing I do remember about the combat is that it's "tough but fair." When the designers wanted to introduce challenge, they did so via the normal game mechanics. For example, instead of just giving the boss a million hitpoints, they'd give him a buff that reduced incoming damage. After losing the fight, you could always come back with a different approach (e.g. interrupt him while he's applying the buff, or strip the buff off of him, or burst him down before he can apply it, etc).

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GulMadred
Oct 20, 2005

I don't understand how you can be so mistaken.

duckfarts posted:

Here's stuff I wish I knew before starting Divinity: Original Sin, could use additions to this myself:
  • If a party member dies, you have to use a resurrect spell to bring them back, which is normally going to be from a scroll. You can buy more in town, they're not terribly expensive.
  • Keep in mind that a lot of puzzles and crafting are done by dragging poo poo onto other poo poo, also don't be afraid to move objects in the game around by dragging
I just started this game myself, so any corrections would be helpful.
  • If a party member dies, you have to use a resurrect spell to bring them back, which is normally going to be from a scroll. You can buy more in town, they're not terribly expensive.
    • Resurrecting a character involves two clicks. The first click designates the character; the second chooses a target location (within 10m of their corpse). This game includes many examples of very dangerous traps and instakill environmental hazards, and a resurrected character can be immediately re-killed before you get a chance to control them. Keep the Resurrection "range" feature in mind, just in case you accidentally walk someone into lava.
  • Keep in mind that a lot of puzzles and crafting are done by dragging poo poo onto other poo poo, also don't be afraid to move objects in the game around by dragging
    • RPGs may have taught you that crates are object to be looted (if you're OCD) or ignored. Divinity wants you to unlearn that lesson. Pretend that you're a toddler. If you see an object, try moving it around. It might conceal a secret switch. You might be able to setup a crude barricade for the next fight. You can suppress most of the environmental-effect traps by moving objects around (e.g. vent? stack a crate on it. pressure plate? move a barrel onto/off of it. burning puddle? push a water barrel onto it).
    • The Telekinesis ability lets you move items over very long distances. This expands your toddler messing-with-the-scenery potential, but it can also be used to circumvent some traps and challenges. Especially in conjunction with Stealth. Maybe you don't actually need to slay the troll if you can sneakily TK his treasure chest away to a safe location and then loot its contents.
  • Take a look around the environment before you start a fight.
    • If there are barrels, mouse over them. Do they contain oil or water? Do you have any spells which can ignite oil or electrify water? Does the enemy have any spellcasters who might do the same to you if you've carelessly grouped all of your dudes around an explodey-barrel? Remember that archers in this game should be considered "junior mages" because their specialty arrows can perform environmental effects.
    • The enemy AI will avoid walking through debuff fields (even the basic Midnight Oil spell) if it can find an alternate path. Hence, you can often encourage a big enemy swarm to walk a circuitous route (and/or force it through a chokepoint), which gives you more time to use ranged attacks.
    • Persistent field-effect spells can be deployed before you actually start combat. Of course, if you approach too closely then you're liable to get detected and start the fight early, so cast from max-range or sneak around.
    • Stealth is actually pretty decent, although it's situational. You'll be outnumbered in most fights, so it's usually preferable to begin with some big AoE debuff or nuke (and you don't want your Rogue in the middle of that, because Friendly Fire is always on). But it's sometimes handy to toss a big gently caress-you Sneak Attack Critical directly into the spine of an enemy mage.
  • Equipment damage is incurred whenever an item is used. Low-AP weapons (e.g. dagger) will get used much more often than high-AP broadswords, and will decay much more quickly. If you have a Rogue in your party, pay special attention to their gear. Repair it frequently, and maybe carry a backup weapon just in case the main one breaks in the middle of an important fight.
  • You can transfer items between party members during combat pretty cheaply (1 AP IIRC), but it's still a good idea to spread out healing potions so that everyone has immediate access to them during "oh poo poo" moments.
  • The Knockdown status effect is very powerful. Aside from completely incapacitating the target, it provides a 100% hit chance for subsequent melee attacks. Many bosses are immune to it, but can be a life-saver when you're facing a high-level enemy who can evade most of your attacks.

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