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Grayly Squirrel posted:Hey Goons. I had some questions about a Jetta. Listen out for ticking/rattles from the back of the cylinder head near the gearbox. VRs are known for timing chain rattles. Guides and tensioners fail and then the chains rattle. Usually this is as far as it goes, but if left to get really bad the chains can jump/skip. If the chains rattle it's a big job to put right. Gearbox comes out, front end comes off, inlet manifold off, sump off, cam cover off, rear timing covers off, then change the chains/guides/tensioners. Expect the whole job to run ~$1,500 if needed. Other than that, they're pretty solid engines if well maintained and looked after.
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Aug 21, 2013 23:18
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Brain Issues posted:Typical day at work for an Audi tech here. It looks so clean!  In a somewhat less clean place.. Pulling the 2.8 boat anchor from my friend's 4Motion ready to fit a 1.8T in its place:  It has my spare 1.8T in there at the moment for trial fitting and checking space so we can build a tubular manifold at some point.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:00
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Brain Issues posted:We have a brand new shop as of ~2 months ago. I used to dream of working somewhere like that. Now i just hate cars instead.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:12
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BlackMK4 posted:There you go. Not far from the truth. Pay here (England) is so poo poo. £24k for master tech at dealers. 6 years and £35k in tools so far. Want to retrain as a welder instead.
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Aug 22, 2013 00:22
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Brain Issues posted:24k GBP is 37675 USD which is more than I'm making now, but not by much. I only have about ~3000 USD or less into my tools though and have only been doing this for ~2 years. In terms of buying power, what you guys pay a dollar for, i pay a pound for. So it's like you making $24k. For 6 days a week, no overtime, no bonus, no comission, no benefits. (Obviously we have socialised heathcare paid for in taxes though.) Here it takes 5-8 years to work up to master tech, and an investment in tools like mine. (Often more, for those who buy everything new.) Entry-level welding jobs pay about the same, it's crazy.
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Aug 22, 2013 01:13
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Peteee posted:This weekend I picked up a 2010 Audi A3 1.6 TDI (Live in Ireland so UK/Euro types apply) My PD has an occasional lump in the idle, it's cured by giving it an Italian tune-up. Chuck some BP Ultimate or V-power in and give it a bit of a rag, clear out the injector nozzles a bit. 120k probably is right for that engine's belt interval, most PDs are rated for 80k with a lot of load on the belt (To prime the injectors.) so 120k should be doable for a similar belt only turning two cams and a common rail pump.
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Aug 27, 2013 23:26
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InitialDave posted:I'm going to go with a friend to look at a 1999 A4 Avant Quattro with the 2.5 Tdi V6 tomorrow. Expect the rear suspension to creak (Anti-roll bar) and the front suspension to be shagged, so check for crappy unresponsive steering, bump steer, general loose feeling. 2.5 V6 TDIs suffer head gasket issues too. B5s are great cars, i had one brriefy, but they're almost all shagged now. My 1.8T Quattro Sport was cream crackered, in the end i just sold it on because it needed so much to put it right.
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Sep 10, 2013 00:10
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InitialDave posted:Car was sold out from under him, so not happening today, but it's definitely a 2.5 Tdi A4 of the late B5 generation he's looking for, so any advice is still welcome. I did reply to your previous post. Why does he specifically want a 2.5 over a 1.9? Power/torque?
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Sep 10, 2013 17:37
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InitialDave posted:Aaaand he's just bought a 1.9Tdi A3 anyway. To be fair, it was up for a low price, and it'll give him the fuel savings he needs now so he's got some breathing room to find a really nice A4. Looks like we're going to pick it up later this week. What specs on the A3? My Golf wagon shares the same platform and engines, and my 130bhp PD engine has been tweaked to ~175bhp/300lb/ft. So it has plenty of poke. (Despite being the heaviest in that platform @ 1,475kg.) With cruise control and doing 62 on the motorway i see 60-70MPG average. an A3 will likely do better than me with a remap to kill of the EGR and adjust fuelling and boost pressure. Of course, in a B5 Quattro the only 1.9s are 110 engines so not the most powerful, but are the most reliable. 2.5s are more powerful and more torquey, but as mentioned previously have head gasket issues, which can be worsened by remapping, but head gasket replacement (With cylinder head skimming) isn't all that major, as long as good MLS gaskets are used. Also cam belt replacement (This is ESSENTIAL for 2.5s, they will do a lot of damage if the belt snaps) is obviously more expensive as the whole front end comes off for access. Don't get me wrong, B5s are great cars, but are now at the age where they often need a lot. For example, all the front suspension links, you're looking at ~£300 in parts for good stuff (Febi) before fitting, and expect the top pinch bolt to be seized which is more headaches. Then the rear suspension will likely need all 4 wishbones' bushes replaced, and anti-roll bar bushes and diff carrier bushes. (Listen for knocking from the rear under load, the diff's nose mount wear and knocks.) Also, if he wants fuel economy the Quattro system will have a pretty fair negative effect, it's a permanent 50/50 split so there's a lot of drivetrain loss and much more rolling resistance. But they are good fun, and great in the snow. Has he considered a B6? They're fairly cheap now and a 1.9 130 Quattro with a remap will see better fuel economy and more power/torque than a 2.5 B5.
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Sep 10, 2013 23:52
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InitialDave posted:I believe it's a 110bhp one. 1999, with the EGR stuff removed. Guess I'll find out when I see it. Ah, ok, and early one. That should do pretty drat well on fuel economy. A friend of mine has a 110 Golf and he's regularly seeing up 75MPG average on the motorway with it. He also often runs it on a biodiesel mix (Injector pump engines can run on that, PDs can't.) and while gets slightly lower MPG the fuel cost is significantly lower.
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Sep 11, 2013 00:11
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BlackMK4 posted:So here is my question - how difficult would it be to order a door lock from a crashed car and swap out my tumbler? Can I even do this? Is there a specific year that I need or are they all the same? Is the Passat key lock compatible? I'm looking at $115 + 2-4 weeks for VW to get me a new tumbler that is keyed to my VIN but I'm worried that someone may have rekeyed my car in the past or something since you never know on a 14 year old car with 200k miles. You can do that. It's fiddly and annoying, but do-able. I've rebuild hundreds when the little eccentric paddle thing has broken. There's a C-shaped clip that hold the eccentric to the lock barrel, so they can be split. Just be sure to pay close attention to how it comes apart.
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Oct 6, 2013 01:14
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BlackMK4 posted:Can they be disassembled without a key that fits? I seem to remember having to put my key in, turn the lock 90*, then pull out. I believe so. I probably have some spares laying around, so i'll have a go at splitting one without a key. If i have one i can send it to you if you want.
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Oct 7, 2013 13:28
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BlackMK4 posted:Thanks, man. I ordered one for $18 shipped last night and I'll give it a shot. I was thinking I could take a piece of heat shrink tubing that fits over the cylinder with all the pins out (key out mode), heat the heat shrink so it compresses the pins (key in mode) and pull the lock cylinder out the front like you usually would with a key. That was just something that crossed my mind while driving today so who knows if it'll work how I think.. I'll give it a shot with the broken one I have here. You don't need the key to disassemble the donor lock. You need the key to assemble the one going back in the car as you need to turn the barrel during assembly, so you should be fine. Also, the barrel comes out the face of the handle, while the eccentric comes out the back.
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Oct 8, 2013 01:56
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BlackMK4 posted:Yeah, the problem is getting the barrel out the face without the key since the pins prevent it from coming out as an anti-theft thing. I guess that part doesn't really mater as I can reuse my current handle piece. The barrel doesn't need to come out, it only needs to turn for reassembly to locate a spring in the mechanism. You remove the parts from the donor lock without doing anything to the barrel, just remove the C-clip at the back of the barrel and it all comes apart, barrel stays in the handle piece.
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Oct 8, 2013 02:21
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BlackMK4 posted:Sounds good. How did you get the spring back in and all? Something about having to wind it? needle nose pliers and lots of swearing.
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Oct 8, 2013 05:35
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Or use a riv-nut. You'd need to drill the hole out a little but it would be the easiest way of fixing it.
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May 11, 2015 01:17
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DrChu posted:Still trying to figure this out. Its not the serpentine belt or the diaphragm part of the PCV valve. I also posted this on the Vortex and one of the suggestions was the secondary air system (CBFA engine). If i disconnect the power to the solenoid to check will that cause any other damage? I guess I'm worried about the pump going but then the solenoid doing nothing. Do you guys still have secondary air pumps on those? That screeching/farting noise sounds exactly like dying ones do, you can pull the plug and start it to check, not sure if it will trigger the light. They only run for about 30 seconds on start-up (about the same time as the raised cold start idle) as they're meant to reduce start-up emissions. It's basically a cheat method, the emissions aren't much less, but they dump in a load of air to reduce the level by percentage volume. The remedy is to plug a suitable resistor in place of the pump, the ECU won't know it's missing.
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May 27, 2015 02:08
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DrChu posted:The CBFA engine does. I guess the part near where the noise is is the combi valve/injection valve (http://www.ecstuning.com/Volkswagen-Golf_VI--2.0T/ES281566/), not sure where I read solenoid at. I don't mind replacing it if its the actual bad part, though I hope I could find something cheaper than that link. If you have some means of erasing the codes should you get one, i would start with the pump. Unplug it and start the car, if the noise is still there unplug that valve/solenoid and try again. Not sure on the location of the pump on your car, but they were usually mounted in the front right corner behind the bumper.
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May 27, 2015 02:43
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bolind posted:Hey VAG nerds, is there a resource like bmwfans, but for VAG, where I can look up parts and part numbers for my brother's 2012 Skoda Superb? He needs a new front headlight assembly, as a dove took it (and itself) out at 120 kph. vagcat.com is the only online resource i know for VAG parts diagrams, but they don't go up that far. However, eBay has a number of dodgy copies of ETKA that will give you all that stuff. Dealers don't give out part numbers unless you know someone, but will send you parts diagrams if needed.
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Jun 5, 2015 19:18
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CommieGIR posted:$112k. Crazy money for what they are. I have an A6 3-litre biturbo diesel. 320bhp, 8-speed auto, Quattro. The RS6 is literally twice the price, but i really can't see it being twice the car. I know the RS6 has every bit of tech imaginable crammed in, a fiercely powerful engine and all but they're £110k here. The original RS6 topped out at i think £58k in 2003. The BiTDI has a good balance of performance, comfort and economy. 0-60 in 5.2 seconds, 180mph, 39mpg. (Imperial gallons, @ 80mph.) Ihmemies posted:Any tips on how to get rid of stupid ideas like buying a W12? Buy a V10 S8 instead. They make a beautiful noise. Mooseykins fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Sep 7, 2019 |
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Sep 7, 2019 01:39
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CommieGIR posted:Yeah, I would've killed for the availability of the C6 TDI Avant in the US. A little aged, but I love the 5 cylinder AEL. I have the Q7 TDI, and I love the motor, but the 2010 6 speed auto leaves something to be desired. Sucks you didn't get the Avant. Odd that you guys miss out on stuff like that, not just individual engines but entire chassis types. Mine is a 2016 Avant, i couldn't go back to a saloon after having wagons for years. I don't get why the BiTDI was only put in the A6, A7 and SQ5 though. (And the Porsche Macan.) It would've been good in the Q7 as a bridge between the normal 3.0 and the 4.2 TDIs and in the A8s too. I'm glad mine has the ZF 8-speed, it's silky smooth and the shifts are lightning fast.
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Sep 7, 2019 02:17
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CommieGIR posted:Yup, I have a 5000 Quattro Avant, the Type44 chassis. We did get the 200 Avant in the US, but only with the 3B. Cool collection! It's unusual how few euro wagons you guys get. And your import laws suck too. Wagons own. Strangely i don't think the boot (trunk) in my C7 is actually any bigger than that of my MK4 Golf wagon, despite the car being the same size as a small cruise ship. Only another 500 years to go until it's paid off..
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Sep 7, 2019 02:40
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Thumposaurus posted:Last brake job I did on my MKV GTI the sensor connector just kinda turned to dust when I unplugged it. Code it out with Vag-Com. Don't even have to get dirty.
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Sep 9, 2019 01:14
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