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I'm about to bite the bullet on all new Ubiquiti stuff for my new house, which I'm pretty excited about. I'm going to get a US-24-250, US-16-150, and USG-Pro-4 unless you all think it would be better to look into Edgemax switch and router stuff. I'm open to suggestions. I need a couple of SFP's and a MM duplex LC-LC fiber to connect the Switch on the third floor to the Security Gateway in the basement. I can't seem to find out much about the SFP's so I'm having a hard time picking the fiber to get. The run is <20m and I am only aiming for a gig connection, so really anything should work right? I can't find much data on the SFP's besides the fact that they're 850nm. I don't even know if they're laser / LED. The datasheet says they're good for 550m runs, but that would have to be with a 62.5/125 fiber right?(I'm making assumptions that they're giving max possible distance at the cost of bandwidth) Does that mean that 50/125 isn't recommended?
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Sep 27, 2017 05:06
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Has anyone used Monoprice In wall or Riser (UTP) cable? Is it any good? Specifically, hows the jacket? Quality? Thick? Flexible? and what's the insertion loss and heat dissipation like? Does the cable pull easily? Does it kink in the box? I plan on running a bunch of 802.3af PoE devices over this, and while I'm sure it's 'just fine' I'd be open to hearing anyone's anecdotal horror stories.
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Sep 28, 2017 18:54
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Encrypted posted:This is a great deal for anyone who's looking to upgrade/buy their own cable modem to something that should last at least 3~5 years with DOCSIS 3.1 ugh where were you last Friday? I FINALLY got my SB8200 working on comcast literally 20 minutes ago. I don't know if it's worth the $35 to return it and order that. But drat that is a pretty smoking deal.
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Sep 29, 2017 22:15
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Josh Lyman posted:As a former electrical and computer engineer, I really like the design. Comcast gives you 5mbps upload speeds on everything up to 100mbps. You have to get a 400mbps plan to get over 10mbps up. Gigabit was another $5/mo and you get 35mbps up. It was a no-brainer.
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Oct 1, 2017 17:44
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Fil5000 posted:I'm happy to be wrong on this, but I could have sworn I read somewhere that using shielded cable without the rest of the components being also shielded could cause issues relating to the shield not being properly grounded. A quick google doesn't throw anything up so it's probably some stupid fever dream I had. I used a TRS cable to plug in my guitar to my amp once and picked up an AM cuban radio station. That was pretty neat. The antenna effect isn't applicable here though even if the cable is grounded on one or neither end. Even ungrounded, the shielding is protecting you from EMF so that's good if you're near a radar station or something high voltage.
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Oct 4, 2017 17:35
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Don't mind me guys, I'm just here to gloat. Serious question though: why is it such a loving pain to get these devices to Adopt and update? FFS I wasted like an hour trying to adopt the UAP before I had to factory reset it. As soon as I did though, the Cloud key actually started working  Adopting the big switch went off without a hitch but updating it was nearly loving impossible right up until it just decided to do it on its own. gently caress it, whatever. I'm halfway to getting my network set up.
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Oct 4, 2017 21:23
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astral posted:that symmetrical 2gig probably is not using a cable modem This. There's no way Comcast offers symmetrical anything on a cable modem. You sure it's not fiber? In which case, you're probably gonna have to rent their router for it to work.
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Oct 4, 2017 22:59
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Thank you for all your help, thread! I got my Comcast gigabit to play nice with my Arris SB8200 on the 2nd LAN port. The first LAN port somehow got buggered and no matter what I do, I can't get comcast to work on it. Oh well, whatever. I got my Ubiquiti gear all set up and configured too! USG-PRO-4, US-16-150W , US-24-250W, Unifi Cloud Key, and a UAP-AC-Pro. Everything seems to be chugging along nicely so far. The speedtest feature on the controller is bullshit because it just pings some unknown server in CA, so that doesn't really tell me anything other than "I can ping CA in 50ms" I'm unreasonably excited about this and I can't wait to start dicking around with Vlans and PoE phones and cameras. The only drawback I've experienced so far is that the US-16-150W is way louder than I was expecting it to be. It's just as loud as the 24 port switch. I was going to mount it on the wall in my laundry room upstairs to network the top level of the house and connect it to the 24 port in the basement via fiber, but now I'm a bit concerned that it's gonna be loud as gently caress and piss off the wife. So, do you guys have any suggestions for sound dampening enclosures? Either off the shelf or DIY is fine. It would need to be at least 3u so I can put my patch panel in there. Not networking specific but this thread might get some lolz out of it anyway:  I snatched up a full height rack off craigslist for $150. Managed to get it in the basement all by myself and it barely clears the ceiling. So far I think I've got 3 u claimed. It'll be 3 times that much once I get my patch panels and combs in. As for the other 43u... well we'll see.
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Oct 16, 2017 17:43
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SlowBloke posted:On the UBNT forums the best results for noise reduction from the poe switches fans have been found by replacing the fans from the default deltas to blackarmor or noctua(they make less noise by pushing less air so the thermals are worse, caveat emptor). Also remember to disable poe from the unused ports, that way the fans will spin less than the stock conf(which enable POE on all ports). I considered a fanswap but won't that void my hardware warranty?
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Oct 16, 2017 19:23
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Hey what's y'alls favorite choice of cable management? I've really only dealt with a few different combs/racks and they're all pretty much the same. I'm looking to pick up a couple 2u Panduit organizers for the rack unless you all have a better suggestion.
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Oct 23, 2017 17:59
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CrazyLittle posted:For home? Yes. Matt Zerella posted:Seconded. Neatpatch is the best if you can spare 2U in your rack. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 22:27 on Oct 23, 2017 |
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Oct 23, 2017 22:22
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Moey posted:3rd'ing this. Done. Thanks for the recommendation guys, I'll let you all know how it turns out.
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Oct 24, 2017 15:45
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CrazyLittle posted:HP ProCurve 1810G-24 (used) https://www.ebay.com/itm/391848946756 The newish HP Procurves are so loving good. When I worked for a company that had 500 users, an IT department of 3 and an IT budget of $0, Procurves are what we used. the 3Com switches aren't so great.
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Oct 26, 2017 17:22
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Matt Zerella posted:Microtik is fine if you don't mind futzing about with their godawful interface but yes, their hardware is excellent. I prefer unifi because if I had to, I could call my wife and have her fix something within the point and click interface. BUT I don't have to because CloudKey 
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Nov 1, 2017 18:59
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redeyes posted:I dunno man, I find the interface easy to use compared to even Netgears. Maybe your experience was pre Winbox days? It literally takes a minute or 2 to punch in all the settings right on the main/first page of Winbox: Winbox is nice, but gently caress if I can ever remember where everything is... I recall the submenus not making much sense to me at all until I actually found what it was I was searching for. (I'm glaring at you disapprovingly, ipsec tunnel settings)
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Nov 1, 2017 19:12
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SlowBloke posted:They get stupid hot(my us-8-60w is scorching hot at idle let alone when powering a device) and unless you decide to go all in with the platform(wireless and/or routing) you get some management overhead. The rackmount units are seriously overpriced and have poor uplinks given their prices(24 port units have only 1g sfp uplinks at the same prices of a tplink t1700g-28tq with 4 10g sfp+ cages). Their fan equipped devices(anything but the 8 port units) are very loud too. I wouldn't buy ubiquiti unifi switching kit unless i needed to power unifi passive poe kit(and they are phasing that out). I am kinda dissapointed by my us-8 but that's pretty much the unifi routing & switching lineup story I mean yeah they are loud as gently caress. But I still think they are a great middle of the road option. The USG-Pro-4 is objectively good. The US-24-250 is good. It can't hold a candle to something like a used $50 HP 48 port Procurve but it can handle a fuckton of PoE devices, which is why I bought it. Same goes for the US-16-150. And I mean... do you REEEEEALY need 10Gbps for your home? The convenience of managing every network component from my cloud key and being able to PoE literally every port in my house was totally worth the less than $1000 I spent for all my network equipment. The noise is slightly annoying, but I think I can mitigate that. Bottom line is, I'm supper happy being able to manage my whole home network from my phone. Especially when my wife called me this afternoon claiming that "the internet was out."
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Nov 28, 2017 04:25
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Ihmemies posted:So you are saying all my quite new ubiquiti gear is literally outdated garbage and I should have known better to buy actually modern gear? Great.. where was the wisdom earlier, when everyone here recommended ubiquiti Nah, you're good. The biggest problem with Ubiquiti is the hardware alone (except the AP's) really isn't the best value. However it integrates well and is almost too easy to manage, so if that is worth $$$ to you then you're fine. I settled for an all Ubiquiti setup because I'm deploying voip phones and their cameras and a couple AP's and it's just so convenient to manage everything from anywhere through a singular interface that even my wife will be able to interact with.
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Nov 28, 2017 18:03
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CrazyLittle posted:time to run cable not emptyquoting.
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Nov 29, 2017 17:55
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Kaboobi posted:Does anyone here know if an Edgerouter can be plugged directly into a Verizon FIOS ONT, or if I'm gonna have to make a bridge through their poo poo quantum router/gateway to get it set up? I've had enough of their gateway and I'm building out a Ubiquiti set up with an Edgerouter X SFP and 3 APs, and hoping to cram it in the basement next to the ONT and run the cables through the house. However, I've heard a whole bunch of conflicting reports about it and don't know if anyone here has tried hooking it up directly to the ONT or if it's even possible, or if their gateway does some sort of auth garbage I'm going to have to deal with. I plugged my Mikrotik directly into my ONT at 3 different service locations and it worked fine. I'd imagine it should on the Edgerouter too. You're gonna have to call Verizon and have them switch service over to the Ethernet port though. And you won't get TV. Edit: I remember reading this article about it 4 years ago: https://www.groundedreason.com/use-router-fios-internet/ We used the provided VZ router as a moca adapter for one location. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jan 12, 2018 |
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Jan 12, 2018 00:26
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Photex posted:You'll get TV you just don't get the TV Guide and other data related info, but really you should just buy an HDHomeRun and rent a cablecard instead THAT'S what it was. Thanks for the reminder. So I'm gonna start pulling wire in my house today, finally! I only plan on doing the 1st floor. The upstairs is gonna be a whole different mess because I'm coming down from the attic and mounting the switch in the laundry room and I just don't feel like doing all that this weekend. The Smartcom guy came back out Wednesday and pulled a string (which they forgot to do initially) through the conduit they ran when the house was built. Sure, I could have done it, but the builder wouldn't let me run the conduit so I had to pay these fuckers to do it. And I'll be damned if I'm paying for them to do a half-assed job. So, instead I waited 2 months for them to come back out and pull a string through a tube out of spite.
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Jan 13, 2018 20:52
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:THAT'S what it was. Thanks for the reminder. Holy gently caress. Finding wall plates/covers/inserts is an enormous loving pain in the rear end. My options are to mix and match brands and hope it works, or spend $20/outlet + keystones. Still looking for a decent 4-port insert for those decorative outlet covers...
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Jan 15, 2018 01:16
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Thanks Ants posted:https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32614175865.html ? Yoooooo why did I not think of Aliexpress or ebay? I finally found those same ones on Amazon for like $2.61 but I'm gonna stock up on those for future jobs. M_Gargantua posted:https://www.monoprice.com/category/adapters-switches-and-splitters/wall-plates-and-keystones The problem is that the wife really wants these faceplates: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I0ICEIY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1FJ9LRJDN8ZOY&psc=1 Which means I'm limited to these inserts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0062NBXDC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3ONFTWS4FHJKT&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XXO2X6O/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Oh well... I guess they're just pricey. Even Graybar doesn't have good deals on them.
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Jan 15, 2018 04:29
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CrazyLittle posted:I don’t get it. Why use decora trim plates for keystone single gang? Because the almighty wife said so. Personally I don't really care what is holding the keystones in place, as long as it's holding the keystones in place. But, to her aesthetics are important and she likes the way the decora plates look Since y'all have been so helpful in helping me with wall plates, I might as well ask about keystones. I usually just pick up Allen Tel or whatever a job specifies from Graybar but I'm fresh out of leftovers and have to go buy some to complete the house. Ideally I'd like 4 different colors, but I'm willing to just suck it up and do all one color plus labels if it's significantly cheaper. What do you all recommend?
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Jan 15, 2018 18:53
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SamDabbers posted:Ask you wife what colors are acceptable, since the aesthetics matter so much more to her than to you. Labeling is something I'd consider non-optional no matter what color scheme you use for the keystones. She says "white." So it looks like we might just be going with a single color. I'd like blue/green for the 2-port drops and that plus white/red for the 4 port. I'll be able to do whatever I want in the basement when it gets finished, but I don't think that's going to be any time soon, except for the office I'll be putting in so that's really just one of each. I don't have to label the faceplates. Everything is going to be labeled at the patch panels, and each wire will be labeled. Every drop is gonna follow the same schema so even if nothing were labeled, it would still be easy to identify. Anywho, I guess I'm looking for a lot of white keystones. These seem like a good price buy they do not look very sturdy. https://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pack-Lo...5.c100005.m1851 ...and at $.80/each, It's almost not even worth risking it over getting the CableMatters ones from Amazon for $.30 more with guaranteed next day delivery. I actually have a few of those Leviton plates. I like them. GnarlyCharlie4u fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Jan 15, 2018 |
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Jan 15, 2018 19:36
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Kaboobi posted:I finally set up an Edgerouter X SFP and two UAP-AC-Lites and holy poo poo I have working wifi in the whole house again, instead of random pockets! I've got a UAP AC Pro and it covers the house pretty adequately, but obviously it could be a little faster if you're not standing in line of sight from it. I'm considering getting another AP, but I'm a little worried about having 2 of them so close together. Not as much for the handoff, which Ubiquiti stuff seems to do pretty seamlessly, but more for the interference between them. Also, I'm not so sure you could even get far enough away from any AP in my house to actually warrant a hand off from one to the other so it might be a moot point. I kind of wish I had gone with 3 AC-lite instead
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Jan 17, 2018 18:54
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CrazyLittle posted:When you add another AP, turn down the transmit power on both of them to encourage your devices to roam faster. I would have to have 3 devices and set them up to be pretty much line of sight and that would be perfect. (again, wish I had done AC-lite) If I split my 3 story house between 2 AP's, I feel like the 1st floor is going to lose out big time. I have to say that currently the setup isn't bad by any stretch, but I know that it could be so much faster if my wireless devices were getting more than 75% signal.
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Jan 17, 2018 19:45
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E-Diddy posted:I bought one of the Ubiquiti mounting things and it is on its way to my house. One thing I was wondering, though, was about powering the AP Pro. I can't do PoE from the Edgerouter since it's 24v vs. 48v needed to power it. If I wanted to do PoE, could I just buy a 48v injector to power the AP? Anyway, wife approved faceplates and jacks and plates came in! No 2 brands are the same but they all match well enough, so I think we're good to go.   The cable matters jacks came with this nice little tool for holding the jack when punching down.      
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Jan 19, 2018 23:24
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thiazi posted:I've ordered two UAP-AC-LITES and I'm trying to figure out best places to locate them to cover my house. Any opinions on whether I should do one per floor centrally, or do one on right side and one on left side of the house (or a combination)? I realize this will depend building to building, but general guidelines or successes would be helpful. It will be much easier to run cabling if I can do a left/right split on the second floor as I have already got cables pulled up into the attic. Depends on where it gets used most honestly. I'd suggest putting it in a place that has line of sight to the most places, or most frequently used places. Then again, I'd be willing to sacrifice not getting AC speeds in the guest bedroom (that I never enter) in exchange for getting AC speeds in 75% of the rest of the floor. Armacham posted:ER-X is on a good sale at Newegg right now for anyone looking. Linked to a buddy. Good catch. Too bad the sale on UAP-Pro's just ended.
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Jan 23, 2018 00:22
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:I'm pretty sure the AP comes with a PoE injector. Mine did, but I only bought the single pack. I think the 3 packs do not but I can't remember... Protip... the keystones I bought do not work with the 4-port decora plates that I bought. Apparently they're too wide. I'm gonna buy these: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-25-Pack-90-Degree-Keystone/dp/B06Y8T7NSH/ and report back.
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Jan 25, 2018 22:10
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Thanks Ants posted:That's the good thing about standards Why don't we just have one standard then? :ducks:
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Jan 25, 2018 22:51
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:Protip... the keystones I bought do not work with the 4-port decora plates that I bought. The slim RJ-45 keystones worked like a dream. It looks like I'm gonna have a few leftovers since I bought twice as many keystones as I needed, but it's all good. I did just find out that these were a thing: https://www.amazon.com/LINKOMM-24-Port-Keystone-Management-Ethernet/dp/B0719N5117/ So I might have a solution for my leftovers after all.
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Jan 29, 2018 17:31
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CrazyLittle posted:The best part about these is you don't have to re-punch if you get the numbers mixed up at the switch/central side. You can just move the keystones around. I ended up re-numbering the panel at my house because a couple of the cables were mislabled. Exactly! I was thinking about just plunking everything in order on the panels and scooting them around once I install my cameras and WAPs so that they're in line with my numbering schema. For example, the nursery gets a camera or other hard wired device, I just scoot the rest of the devices on that panel down and keep it right next to the rest of the drops that run to the office :thumbs: Or say I want to move all the AP's together, and all the cameras together into one area of my patch panel, clip-snap-done! If i finally decide that I want to network and manage all my battery back-ups and don't want them mixed in with the rest of the network drops, I can segregate those off to a different panel location.
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Jan 29, 2018 19:29
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PitViper posted:Use the Cloud Key controller, it's worth it! Yeah my buddy just bought a cloud key for like $40. It's totally worth it. I paid $70 for mine and I'm still totally happy about it.
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Feb 23, 2018 23:35
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Alpha Mayo posted:Moved to a new apartment. There's like thirty access points all across the spectrum. Anything I can do to raise SNR of my own AP especially in 2.4 range? Or do I just blast as much signal as allowable by law? Faraday cage? Personally I'd dump 2.4 entirely if possible. Otherwise just get a Mikrotik RB-something or other and crank it up to 1w and piss everyone off.
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Feb 24, 2018 03:19
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kirtar posted:Does it work to put a modem on a coax splitter with the TV? The house I'm moving into has in wall ethernet, but the only coax that isn't at least 15 feet from the closest ethernet port is where the den TV is going. I could of course just get longer cables, but if the splitter isn't going to cause any major issues it means less cabling that I have to hide away. It depends on how many times that cable has been split upstream. Think about it this way; you only have one cable coming into your house. If you want tv and internet then it's gotta split that signal SOMEWHERE. Try it and find out. It won't hurt anything to try. Just note that every time you split the signal you lose signal strength, so if it's split too many times upstream then you might have performance issues. Calling the cable company to reconfigure the device OR up the signal strength might help though.
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May 28, 2020 21:48
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H110Hawk posted:Also find out which exact splitter you need, frequencies have changed over the years and older ones won't work. I think they have inbuilt pass filters to help eliminate noise. As with all coaxial, it's black magic even when it works. See if your modem has a page where you can view your SNR and input power (in dbm). It likely does, even if provided by the provider, but you might need to jack directly into it which is dangerous on windows. Never jack into it directly. Always use a condom.
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May 28, 2020 23:24
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I think you can "turn it off" in Unifi but I don't know if that actually prevents it from reporting stats. You don't need to actually be internet connected to use the CloudKey. Despite it's name, it can run in standalone mode.
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May 30, 2020 22:42
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Thanks Ants posted:Drill up from the basement, and drill down from the attic. Then your only issue is getting all the cables from the basement to the attic but usually there will be services that go the full height of your house (e.g. the vent stack) so find these and you'll have a way in. Dropping cables down from the attic will probably involve you hitting horizontal timbers about halfway up the wall so you might need to open the wall up to drill through these, or just use the upstairs to mount access points, bring the network out inside closet space etc. where it being 2 metres off the ground isn't an issue. I can't really help much more than that as I'm not hugely familiar with how houses are built in the USA. I just use a big fuckoff drill bit (like this) to get through the wood fire-stops, but ideally you should actually open the wall and fill the hole with fire-stop putty after you've run your cables anyway. You might run into issues getting through the insulation in your walls. Interior walls are less likely to have insulation, but that doesn't mean it's not there. However, you're also more likely to run into plumbing in your interior walls since builders don't run pipes on exterior walls, at least not in my area. The advantage of the flex auger bit is that you can cut your hole for the network jack, then just feed the bit in there and drill down into the basement to pass cables through more easily, rather than try and drill up from the basement and have no idea where behind the wall your bit poked through. I was lucky enough that when I built my house I had the builder install a conduit from the basement to the attic so that I could run a fiber from my rack to my aggregate switch upstairs. I haven't done it yet because I'm lazy, but I have the ability to do it easily once I get around to installing the switch upstairs.
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Jun 4, 2020 18:21
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I agree with Dick Nipples. I just put aggregate switches in my upstairs and basement and use fiber through conduit to connect everything. Drops to the 1st floor are cat6 run up from the basement and top floor is down from the attic. It's all 1G now anyway but I don't see myself having a bunch of desktops all over the house with 10 gig cards like, ever. Seems odd to have your SAN more than a couple feet from your servers anyway, and what else would even need more than 10G?
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Jun 13, 2020 03:48
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Binary Badger posted:Speaking of Ubiquiti... Google just suggested this article like right around the time you posted it and I hadn't even caught up on this thread yet! 
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Jun 28, 2020 01:49
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