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Ya - it's the Unifi line at Ubiquiti I'd probably avoid. The Edge line seems largely to be sane from Ubiquiti still. I happily bought an ER-4 and ES-10xp recently. Re: PowerLine, that is an extremely YMMV situation. If the wires cross the breaker panel, you will get a big slow down. My house is completely rewired and I can't break past 100mbps with PowerLine due to where I need the adapters to sit. Consider something like Orbi or another dedicated wireless backhaul for distributing your network. Those things are chock full of wireless adapters so you should be able to just drown everyone else out  .
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Jul 9, 2020 23:22
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captainbananas posted:
Ya - I don’t know of much in the way or complaints about the Unifi Wireless AP’s. Most of the grousing you’ll find here and elsewhere is in the more vertically integrated stuff (e.g. Dream Machine or other all in ones) At least current Unifi AP’s are pretty much “plug it in” and go.
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Jul 10, 2020 16:48
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Rollie Fingers posted:I bought a NanoHD a couple of months ago and can say that's definitely not the case. Ah it’s been a while since I did it. That sounds lovely. I was using the controller though which from my recollection was a decent experience.
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Jul 10, 2020 19:45
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Combat Pretzel posted:So what's the current preferred software router/firewall? I don’t have experience doing it but a friend of mine runs his network router as a vm running IPFire. He seems to like it okay - though I think he’s looking to move to an SBC.
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Jul 16, 2020 23:03
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Combat Pretzel posted:IPFire, looking into that one, too. Re: IPFire and WireGuard, while I disagree with the maintainer’s take, his perspective is hyper reliable appliances. So from that standpoint, WireGuard is very beta still. IPFire tends to get most used in layer 3/4 deployments connecting site to site stuff from my understanding. So shiny is less interesting than exceptionally reliable. That said - yes, 
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Jul 17, 2020 02:33
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As preached in early replies, I like the Netgear Orbi hardware with its dedicated wireless backhaul. I’ve got it built out with 4 satellite nodes spanning my house and the basement apartment next door. Consistent 450-500 mbps when jacked in via Ethernet to a satellite and over WiFi around 375 mbps. Easy to setup and performs well under load. 4 adults on video calls all day plus assorted streaming for kids and lots of big file copying by me.
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Oct 16, 2020 01:35
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Red_Fred posted:Is there a thread recommended POE switch? I need more ports so I can connect a Steam Link Raspberry Pi and my Samsung TV via Ethernet but I also need to be able to able to ideally power two device via POE. I have an EdgeSwitch 10XP and I like it. Easy to configure and manage. I don’t use it for PoE but it supports it and I’ve got friends that use it for that without issue.
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Nov 7, 2020 19:32
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el_caballo posted:Getting CenturyLink gigabit fiber installed in a week. I’d try the ER-X first and see how it goes. I have CLink Gig and it is PPPoE. I run an ER-4, partly because I’ve got a managed switch that I connect via SFP and in anticipation of increasing speeds long term. Something to keep in mind when you start running speed tests, you may find you don’t see the magical 900+ mbps speeds on speedtest.net or similar. I’ve found it hard to consistently find a speed test that will saturate the downlink. My methodology has been to rely on using multiple workloads to saturate it: - downloading a big game on Steam - downloading WoW or similar from Blizzard - downloading a game for Xbox One - downloading something else If I combine the multiple streams, I can saturate the gig downlink. Not sure if that’s part of CLink applying QoS on their network. I’m not an ISP network nerd so someone else might have better theories. The uplink is consistently 900+ mbps on the other hand. But I suspect many fewer people are using their uplink heavily. Anyway, food for thought from one CLink Gig customer to another.
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Dec 21, 2020 04:06
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SpaceSDoorGunner posted:
thiazi posted:ER-X is great for a home if you are a bit techy and have the other infrastructure in place, but it is just a router (and depending on model, a 3 or 4 port switch). Most consumers' idea of a "router" includes a switch and wireless AP, so if you are expecting a single do-everything box then the ER-X is not the right thing for you, and you should look at consumer offerings from tplink, Asus, Netgear, etc. I haven't used those products in recent years so don't know what to recommend. To piggy back on this, you start caring a lot more about discrete routers vs switches vs APs as you approach gigabit speeds. Most all in one products don’t handle speeds above 500 mbps well. At a minimum, splitting the routing/switching from the wireless AP is a good step. After that, it’s a question of your needs. Do you want to optimize how fast your wireless speeds are? Do you have a NAS you’re trying to using LAG with across its 4 NIC’s? Do you have interesting routing requirements or services on your network? The list goes on and on and it tends to get more complex the faster your speeds if you’re not going to use whatever your ISP gave you.
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Dec 21, 2020 16:13
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Anyone got a 12-18 SFP+ port switch they like. I was looking at the Ubiquiti US-16-XG but that’s part of the Unifi line and I know the thread’s been grumpy about that gear. My current setup has an ER4 and an EdgeSwitch. I’m having a run of single mode fiber optic put in to a few rooms. Would like to replace the EdgeSwitch with something I can stick SFP+ modules in for 10G connectivity. Mostly, I need the multiple SFP/SFP+ ports to connect the fiber so now is as good as any time to just get a 10G switch.
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Dec 24, 2020 19:11
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ROJO posted:There is really nothing wrong with the general Unifi line, besides the two UDM products (and the 6.X controller firmware which has pretty much been resolved). I have 3 different Unifi switch products (an 8-port, a 16-port POE, and a 48-port) and they are all rock solid. I can't vouch for the 16-XG personally, but I don't think there are really any broad complaints about the Unifi switch products (or the older gateways). Got it! Then seems like the XG is my jam.
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Dec 25, 2020 01:21
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H2SO4 posted:I've been using the US-16-XG since beta and have no complaints. The main difference is that you have to manage it through the UniFi controller, so you may want to look at the non-unifi flavor to integrate in with the rest of your stuff if you find that to be a sticking point. Oh I see. I didn’t realize there’s an EdgeSwitch variant of it, the ES-16-XG. Good to know. That’s exactly what I want given the other Edge* gear I have.
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Dec 25, 2020 04:05
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Residency Evil posted:I currently have: The ER-X should handle it fine with typical use. If you start doing a lot of big file transfers or heavy bandwidth use on the LAN, you might benefit from ERLite-3 or ER-4. ER-X only does routing throughput of 1Gbps vs ERLite-3 @ 3Gbps and ER-4 @ 4Gbps. The other consideration is if you care about QoS. ER-X and ER-4 have faster CPUs than the ERLite-3. QoS is done at software layer so the offload improvements don’t help. TL;DR - yes, ER-X should solve it. Not sure about your Unifi controller problem as I’ve only got Edge* gear.
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Dec 27, 2020 00:52
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SpaceSDoorGunner posted:So I guess ER-X is the ticket- I want to run a pi web server as well I assume it can do that safely. Honestly, ER-X isn’t going to care about which particular WAP you choose. If you’re sticking Ubiquiti, the AC Pros are well regarded. Long as you’ve got one with good signal strength, you should be okay. You could also go Scorched Earth and setup an Orbi mesh which would use a bunch of the 5Ghz spectrum as part of the mesh.
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Dec 27, 2020 15:48
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Residency Evil posted:Jesus Christ I read all of these guides about setting up my UniFi APs properly, decreasing how much power they’re using for the antenna, and this piece of poo poo Peloton kept on giving me authentication errors because it kept on trying to connect to the AP in the basement instead of the one 15 feet away. In Palpatine’s voice: “Yeeees, let the cancer waves flow through you!”
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Dec 27, 2020 21:03
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Residency Evil posted:First thing I tried unfortunately. If I'm only getting 300-400 the Edge Router is unlikely to be the culprit, right? Not necessarily. Can you post an exported config from the router? Make sure you scrub your PPPOE cress, etc. If you have DPI or QoS on, they can also significantly impact the throughout.
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Dec 28, 2020 22:32
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Residency Evil posted:It's this: Oh hmmm. So if you unpack the tar file there should be something that’s obviously the config file. I’ll export mine when I get home and see if I can figure out the specific file.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:00
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Residency Evil posted:Anything in particular you want? looks like the config ends up exported as a tar with a bunch of files. So looking at the system tab, I clicked "Download" under the "Configuration Management & Device Maintenance" heading. That gave me one .tar file and inside that, the config.boot is what has the values I care about. That said, the values you pasted above said that the hwnat offload module was enabled. Also looks like traffic monitoring was disabled. Next on my list is trying new cables and having the ISP check their hardware.
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Dec 29, 2020 01:52
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Residency Evil posted:I conveniently forgot that the AP that's likely giving the strongest signal just happens to be upstairs, and connected via Moca bridges. I just looked up how fast a moca bridge is. Ah. That’ll do it. You have ventured into a land I do not know much of. I will let folks more versed in Moca to handle this. My wild guess, based on previous experience with networking is you get the speed of the slowest component. So I’m betting yes, Moca 2.0 speeds.
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Dec 29, 2020 03:46
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KidDynamite posted:hello all new house owner here. What sort of professional should I be looking for to run cat6 drops throughout my home? Want to do 4 rooms and the basement. I'm very excited at the prospect of a mostly wired network. Internet Explorer posted:The term you want to look for is "low voltage wiring or low voltage cabling contractor / technician / installer. " You can also find home theater and home automation contractors that will do the work. That said, if they’re busy they may pass on your job if it’s not lucrative enough.
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Dec 29, 2020 15:55
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movax posted:Do those guys typically patch drywall and things? I’m hitting the limit of what I think is possible running my own cable without just sucking it up and cutting big rear end holes in drywall + pulling floorboards. I’m at the point of removing can lights to get ceiling access and using a bore scope to scout where things are and I can’t imagine contractors that want to maximize jobs per hour would want to deal with any of this. So it depends. The Home Theatre or HiFi contractors typically will, but it’ll cost you dearly versus finding a GC or handyman to do the drywall work. The low voltage contractors likely won’t even offer it, similar to how electricians typically won’t deal with it.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:28
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text editor posted:
Neat. Didn’t know OpenWRT was ported to the ER-X. Can OpenWRT make use of the offload hardware capability? That stopped me previously with the ERLite and some other non-Ubiquiti OS. Needed the hardware offload to actually hit gigabit throughput.
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Dec 31, 2020 02:25
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skylined! posted:Thanks - my router and network switch are in the closet with the blue box in the stairwell in this picture. Ethernet drops are the blue X's. Netgear Orbi 3-pack using the Ethernet jacks as backhaul would be a good low effort multi-AP solution. If you’re more prone to fiddly things then 3 Unifi AP’s would also do.
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Jan 1, 2021 00:00
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Rooted Vegetable posted:Skim read through 10 pages or so but, to confirm, is the Netgear Orbi: In order of questions: - yes. My in-laws, parents, and cousins all installed Orbi systems of some sort on their own with minimal help from me. - The special features like parental controls are easy to disable. When I set mine up, I just clicked “no” during the wizard. Easy to change later as well. - For overlaying with existing network, you’d just configure it to run in Bridge Mode. Easy to change in the UI from a laptop. The mobile app doesn’t expose it as far as I’m aware. - As to being loved, I think I’m the most vocal backer of it. Most others don’t have bad things to say about it. It has one flaw, as far as I’m concerned: the Orbis will not work if they don’t have valid DNS resolution to a Netgear-specific domain name. They use that for “network connection detection”. This is such a rare case that it doesn’t matter to me. It might piss others off but I block any sketchy domain resolution anyway. From research online, it’s not phoning home anything sketchy as far as I could tell. TL;DR: Orbis provide a high performance, easy to setup wireless mesh system that is higher performance than most options. For power users, most probably prefer a set of Unifi AP’s or similar.
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Jan 2, 2021 02:57
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Oysters Autobio posted:Hi, just bumping this one because I didn't include a few important details: This shouldn’t matter at these speeds (<500mbps) but is there anything like QoS enabled on the routers? That is typically done in software and it’s CPU intensive for even modest loads. Other thing to check is ensuring the speed your PC is negotiating with the router. That is, are you getting 100mbps or 1Gbps?
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Jan 3, 2021 20:05
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Triikan posted:A Ubiquiti Dream Machine would render my Edgerouter X completely unnecessary, right? Yes. You wouldn’t need the ER-X as the UDM would be the router.
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Jan 4, 2021 01:33
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Oysters Autobio posted:QOS is not enabled. Should it be? If you need QoS, you’ll know it. It’ll allow you to do things like optimizing for media streaming or gaming. That said, it’s typically overkill on home networks and it generally will produce slower speeds. If the adapter says gigabit then it should be negotiating at that rate. Sadly I don’t know much about the router you linked so I can’t say if the WAN-to-LAN perf is somehow deficient. That translation can be unexpectedly costly on cheaper routers. Most can usually do at least 500mbps WAN-to-LAN. Other things to try might be: - swap some more cables around - try another test machine Sadly I’m somewhat at a loss. The speeds you’re trying to achieve should be pretty easily hit by most any router.
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Jan 4, 2021 01:37
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Residency Evil posted:Looks like by upgrading my Moca adapter I’m now getting 400 mbps or so via WI-FI on my network. From reading, seems like this is about as fast as the unity ac lite and ac lr will get due to overhead? Is that because they’re limited to 2x2? Do I need to upgrade to something with a 3x3 or 4x4 to go higher? Honestly, you won’t practically get much higher than 450mbps, partly because many devices don’t have the radios to take advantage of more than 2x2. Even if they do, there’s walls and poo poo.
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Jan 4, 2021 02:58
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Toxic Fart Syndrome posted:I've recently upgraded my internet and want to add wifi to my main PC. I've done this with a little USB dongle as a stop gap, but I would like to get a better one or (ideally?) a PCIe card that is capable of using the entire available bandwidth (the cheap dongle from Meijer only does ~50Mbps). I used one of these in my desktop for a long time and it worked great: ASUS PCE-AC68 Dual-Band 3x3 AC1900 WiFi PCIe Adapter with Heat Sink and External Magnetic Antenna Base Allows Flexible Antenna Placement to Maximize Coverage https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00F42V83C/ It easily sustained 400+ mbps through walls.
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Jan 4, 2021 19:57
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Gyshall posted:What's the best way to enable management/access of my network from mobile? I have a UDM but I'd love to do all always on Wireguard or similar, but unsure of the best architecture. Is the question how to manage the devices or how to manage access to the network? If the former, then UISP works well enough though supposedly you’re supposed to only be using it with 10+ devices. I’d happily pay a small fee to use it with my 3. If you’re talking access, then WireGuard is nice. If you don’t want to fiddle as much, you could pay for TailScale which is basically WireGuard but with a better interface to managing and provisioning clients.
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Jan 8, 2021 01:46
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buglord posted:Upgraded to gigabit with AT&T. Using their own modem/wifi combo (I know I know) because they are waiving the rental fee for 18 months. Modem is hardwired to my gaming pc and I get around 950mbps. Some network chipsets are just poo poo. It’ll be the biggest influencer, also will impact if it’s USB to Ethernet dongle. You could try the Ubuntu thing but I’d bet money it won’t matter.
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Jan 10, 2021 21:45
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buglord posted:Yeah about twice as fast. Same cable, adapter. Still not anywhere near 1gbps, but enough of a change to throw my “it’s a hardware issue” idea out the window. So that were clear, you disabled WiFi when trying the hardwire test, right?
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Jan 10, 2021 22:56
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Turd Eater posted:I'm having my house wired with <10 drops of Cat6A, terminating into a closet in the basement. I need recommendations for: For switch: I like my EdgeSwitch 10XP all though it’s 1Gb. Maybe something like the EdgeSwitch 16 XG? For router: I like my EdgeRouter-4. For AP: Unifi AP’s? Maybe the Pros or nanoHD variants.
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Jan 11, 2021 02:23
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Turd Eater posted:Thanks, I'm looking around Unifi's offerings now. You could try and find a 10Gbe switch that also has PoE but honestly, I’d just get a smaller one like the EdgeSwitch 10XP for that. Or if you don’t care about a manager switch, then something cheaper with PoE.
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Jan 11, 2021 03:49
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Ubiquiti Networks account management infrastructure was compromised. Pack it up folks: https://community.ui.com/questions/Account-Notification/96467115-49b5-4dd6-9517-f8cdbf6906f3 From what I can tell, your gear isn't at risk. This is more the stuff related to the forums and/or your payment info associated with your store account. EDIT: Actually, looks like it would share the same account as your UISP/UNMS stuff. So uhh, maybe change your pw and add 2FA if you didn't have it. rufius fucked around with this message at 21:22 on Jan 11, 2021 |
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Jan 11, 2021 21:17
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Clayton Bigsby posted:OK, I need some assistance here. I don’t have thoughts on your bigger problem about two routers side by side. That being said... a 5 megapixel IP camera likely uses less than 10 Mbps per camera. So at most, you’ve got a constant stream of 30 Mbps running through it. The Amplifi HD’s should comfortably be able to stream 250+ Mbps 24/7 with little issue. So whatever is causing the Amplifi to get mad might be related to the IP camera but I’m deeply skeptical that the bandwidth is the issue.
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Jan 16, 2021 19:50
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RestingB1tchFace posted:Looking for recommendations. I setup an Orbi RBK50 network for my parents on recommendation from here. Awesome system. Works great. Should futureproof them for a while. But I am currently looking to buy a new house and want to setup a wireless network with a media server hub connected. What do you guys think? Are there any good router setups with an integrated server component? Or is that something that you'd recommend getting as a separate component? I guess I could see how a separate dock system with replaceable storage could be nice for upgrade purposes. Combo systems are generally things I avoid and recommend others avoid. Buy purpose built things. I’d run a small NAS for that.
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Jan 17, 2021 23:55
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RestingB1tchFace posted:Any recommendations as far as NASs go? Seems like the price range on these is all over the place. Don't want a piece of junk. Want something that can be a long term storage solution. Obligatory link to NAS thread - https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2801557&perpage=40&noseen=1&pagenumber=650 The main brands that are quite consumer friendly will be Synology and QNAP. I’m partial to QNAP but I think either is a safe bet. I have only bought devices from the SMB line which is more “prosumer” in nature. I prefer a minimum of 4 drives but if you aren’t worried about anything more than basic redundancy (RAID 1) then 2 drives is fine. I have a TVS-471 and have been very happy with it but those are quite out of date. Modern version of that would be something like TVS-472*. Those run around $1100-$1400 depending on processor and memory without drives. If you’re looking lower budget, then maybe the TS-451 and friends. Those are in the home and SOHO line and they’re more like $350-450 range without drives. Big things to remember with both QNAP and Synology is to make sure you check the drives you want to buy are on their compatible list. If you have an old computer and some hard drives lying around, a lot of folks like Unraid. I’ve not personally used it but many folks in the NAS thread like it. It’ll allow you to throw a collection of mismatched drives and have it act as a big storage pool. This option requires you purchase a license but it’s a good one if you are willing to put in the work to get the drives together and setting up Unraid. My primary use case for my QNAP is as an intermediate backup location for photos from my phone and for serving Plex. I’ve got nightly and weekly backup jobs for my media. I’m not willing to tolerate a drive failure destroying data so I run a RAID 5. You’ll have to figure out your needs and tolerances. EDIT: sorry I forgot I’m not actually in the NAS thread and I wrote this big effort post.
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Jan 19, 2021 01:50
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Binary Badger posted:
One important thing is the AEBS doesn’t do VLAN tagging. So if they’re doing that, you need something like an ER-X acting as the router and put the AEBS in bridge mode. Century Link uses VLAN tag 201 for example.
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Jan 23, 2021 07:50
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derk posted:i might finally upgrade it. i have stayed on the last 1.x forever. I’ve ran 2.0.9 on my ER-4 and an ERLite-3 for a while now. Been running solid without issue.
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Jan 28, 2021 01:55
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