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Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
I've been looking into getting into climbing and have found a gym nearby that looks like it would be a good place to start. What I hoping to get out of climbing besides a fun new hobby is more upper body strength and working my way into ropes skills and descending to further my career. I own a Petzl Navaho Bod harness which is a fall protection and work positioning style harness. Is that too much harness for rock climbing? I am thinking if the goal is to get more comfortable climbing around in my harness for work I should be using my work harness. If it would be to cumbersome I will rent or buy a climbing style harness.

The gym nearby has three auto delay devices which saves me from having to get a friend to come with, maybe once I am ready to move to a different routes I will have a climbing friend to belay me.

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Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
Yea I was a little worried that it might be a bit ridiculous. A 5 pack of passes with gear is only $88 so if I am really into I'll buy one after the 5th time.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Covert Ops Wizard posted:

That harness does not look like it is designed with the ability to move freely in mind. Most places include the cost of renting a harness with shoe rental, so you might as well use one of theirs.

And trust me, if you actually want to enjoy climbing, you'll rent the shoes.

It is a different sort of movement but you are right probably not the best for rock climbing. I'll rent everything that they offer and buy my own as I grow into it.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
Went to the climbing gym for the third time today. First time going alone so I was stuck with the auto belay routes. I was able to climb for a lot longer than before. I am using rental gear and I want to know if buying my own would make a difference. I can live with the harness but the shoes bug me. The gym just got a bunch of new gear so maybe its because it isn't broken in yet but I fell like the shoes are too stiff. I have a hard time 'feeling' the holds on the wall. What should the soles feel like?

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
I have four visits with gear left on my pass at the local gym. (climb Nashville if anyone is in the area) after that I will make the call if its worth sticking $200 into a shoes and harness. I have already ordered chalk and a chalk bag.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
I'll be in Denver on the 26th and would like to get some climbing in. Is Movement Denver any good? Any Denver goons want to get some mid day climbing in? I have dinner plans that night but will be free all day.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
My work climbing partner decided to bail and go snowboarding today, and movement's doesn't have autobelays. I'm going to hit REI and then the gym so I would be there around 11:30 or noon if anyone is looking for a climbing partner let me know. My email is mrock87 at gmail

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

SeaborneClink posted:

Please don't tell me that. I've been trying to not buy this rope for a while now.

EMS has the 60M for $220 and you can get 20% off that with a coupon. I went with something a little thicker but I looked long and hard at that one. http://www.ems.com/mammut-infinity-dry-9.5-mm-x-60-m-climbing-rope/1313359.html#prefn1=brand&prefv1=MAMMUT&start=4

In other news I lead some sport routes for the first time today. I also took my first fall and bailed on my first route. All in all a beautiful day outside. Sadly between work and a vacation it will be 6 weeks before I can do it again. If I'm lucky I might be able to squeeze in a few trips to the gym.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
I'll have a day off in Denver April 6th. Anyone want to take me outside? How is the weather?

The bad news is I packed light for this trip so I just have shoes, harness, chalk and I think my gear to clean with. I wasn't planning on renting a car but I think Denver does zip car?

The good news is I don't mind being your belay bitch while you work on something as long as I can get on something in my range, TR in the gyms at 5.10/11 sport 5.8s and no trad experience. Some anchor building from setting TRs outside.

Sound_man fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Mar 27, 2017

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

spwrozek posted:

Since it is a Thursday I am not sure who on here would be around, I think we are all pretty much M-F 9-5er types. Mountain project has a very active partner finder. If all else fails I might be able to do a 4-7 climb in CCC.

Gotcha, lets see what the weather looks like as it gets closer, I had a great time at Movement Denver so I might spend the afternoon there then meet up with some buddies for dinner.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Ravenfood posted:

That is super cool.

Anyone climbed in Nashville? I'm down here for a week for school and looking for a place, and might be moving down here in late December. The closest indoor place to where I'm staying right now is Climb Nashville West, is it decent?

And more long-term, what's the outdoor sport and bouldering scene like?

Climb West is a great gym. One of my top 5 in North America. The closest sport climbing to Nashville is King's Bluff which is about 45 minutes west of town. The approach is easy, but the routes are pretty short (40 feet) and the easier ones (5.6-5.8) are rather polished.

People day trip to Obed, Foster Falls and Twall from Nashville Red River Goge isn't too far away but far enough you'll want to spend the night. I'm out of town until the 16th but if you are still around let me know and lets go to the gym.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Hot Diggity! posted:

22 year old woman from Chicago died trad climbing at Devil's Lake.


I've only top roped at the lake, I have a trip planned for mid April and was thinking about trying to lead a few of the easier routes. News like that is a reminder of how sharp the sharp end is at the lake. The ground is always close and the pro can be if at best. We'll see where my head is at when I get there.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Tactical Lesbian posted:

https://www.backcountry.com/black-diamond-neutrino-quickpack

is this a good deal? for sport mostly, maybe trad later. ~8.74 each. seems to be the best price i've come across in a while.

Active Junky will give you 7% cash back on backcountry right now to make them an even better deal.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Verviticus posted:

decided i want to stop spinning a hold every other week and i figure i’m going to drop about 20lbs to accomplish that. other than “take it easy and don’t get hurt”, is there anything else i should know

edit: i really only do indoor bouldering and no other climbing

If you aren't doing yoga start. Your balance and coordination will improve and that will help you stay controlled in your movements and not need to 'pound' holds as much.

For me once I made the choice to get better at climbing I was able to look at every beer, pizza and cheeseburger and think, is that worth hauling up the wall for the next week? Sometimes the answer is hell yes, other times I get a slice, salad and a water instead of two slices and a beer. I have had better luck with small changes I can do everyday rather than big changes that feel like a massive effort.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
We got a break in a rainy streak in Nashville this week so I got to climb outside. Myself and one other person took someone outside for their first time climbing on real rock. He ended up leading halfway through the day and did fantastic with some coaching. His stoke was contagious and we all had a blast even though the wall was seeping and we had to be picky about what we got on. We all have the same three day a week schedule so hoping to get out outside once every other week or so. Get excited folks, send season is coming.

Take advantage of any and all programs your gym offers. I hated the idea of taking classes at the gym, as a husky dude gym class was never my thing. I started yoga two years ago and now I'm addicted. I don't like all the types or all the instructors but the ones I do have really helped me gain flexibility and balance which has translated into making certain moves on the wall a piece of cake. One of my gym friends started going to a kettle bell strength class and convinced me to go. I was honest with the instructor and told him I had no idea what I was doing and he spend extra time with me working on form with low weight. Turns out no one gives a poo poo if you are lifting a 10 pounder or a 50 pounder as long as you put it away when you are done. Its not a competition, its a journey.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Baronash posted:

Any goon climbers in Illinois/Wisconsin? I’m looking to hit up Devil’s Lake pretty regularly this year, and wanted to know if some folks could use a climbing partner.

I try and get up there a couple times a year to see family. I'm heading up there the first week of April, I'l have gear with me but not optimistic the weather will be nice enough to use it.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
Hey Denver folks- I might head that way in early May for some climbing with a coworker. He climbs in the 5.10s and I'm in the under .10 range, both sport only. He would like to do a 14,000 footer hike, I'm not as interested in that but willing to tag along if I can't find a different belay partner for that day. We are flying into Denver on Sunday the 5th and have to be back in the city proper the night of the 9th for work on the 10th. We will bring all the gear we need. What areas would you all suggest? We don't need to stay in Denver during the climbing time but will need an area with hotel/hostel/air BnB so nothing too remote.

No multi pitch experience either but between now and then we could work on that. I do have a full rack from setting anchors so mixed routes are ok too, just not ready for full trad.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
Too much injury talk in this thread, needs more pictures









Other than my 2 day trip to Red River Gorge the weather has taken away most of my planned climbing days. We only got a day and a half on the wall (out of 5) in Denver and the forecast was iffy for the most recent trip to Devils Lake so my partner bailed. I met up with my friend and got a few pitches in but conditions weren't great. A bit warmer than my trip there in April but the approaches were a bit slick. Full album https://imgur.com/a/K1rEzE7

Sound_man fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jun 1, 2019

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

although not unheard of https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/106815114

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Ubiquitus posted:

Anyone here use kettlebells as a supplement? Could anyone post a climbing specific kettlebell sequence, w/ sets and reps?

My gym offers a KB class twice a week. The instructor spends about 6 weeks focusing on a new movement, upping weight and reps as the class gets used to it. Currently we are working on Turkish Get Ups the rest of the class is a mix of other movements like squats and dead lifts. The instructor's Instagram is empowered_movement she posts some of the workouts and movements to it.

I wouldn't say any of it is climbing focused but my overall fitness has improved because of the class so that has helped me on the wall.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Ubiquitus posted:

Anyone here use kettlebells as a supplement? Could anyone post a climbing specific kettlebell sequence, w/ sets and reps?

Last night's class was:
Warm Up-
5 Inch worm push ups
10 toe touches each side
10 plank reaches
10 bridge ups
30 sec high kicks
30 secs butt kicks

3 X 1 TGU

5 X 3 Single arm squat thrusters (each side)
Rest 1 minute

4 rounds of
6 suitcase dead lifts
6 single arm dead lifts (one side per round)
30 sec farmers carry (each side)
(maybe one more movement??)
Rest 1 minute after rounds

5 minutes of 12 KB swings every minute

Cool down/Stretch.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
I went to Red River Gorge and got hooked on crack


https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106789874/shock-and-awe
I did this on our first day as my first trad lead. I found it easy to protect and there were enough face holds I didn't have to really on my weak crack climbing skills. I had a blast on it.


https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105889552/american-crack
The last climb I did on the trip, I wasn't a fan of the top out. The ledge you needed to get on to clip the chains was full of sand and small rocks. Trying to get up there without raining choss down on the belayer was tricky.

My Buddy and I were there late Sunday night through Thursday afternoon and had a blast. The weather was fantastic except for a little rain early on Wednesday, we found dry rock but the approach was very slick.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Borachon posted:

Anyone have any experience with/opinion on the Edelrid Ohm?

I have one and use it with lighter partners. It helps with falls and lowering but it can be annoying when you are clipping. Sometimes it locks when you are pulling through and then the belayer needs to wiggle the rope to free it up. I refer to it as my fat kid tool of shame.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Jester Mcgee posted:

Those look amazing. I'm out there all the time looking wistfully at the cracks, because I don't know how to trad climb.

This was my first go at it. I did build top rope anchors with gear for a couple years so I have a little experience placing pieces but I'd never lead a trad route before getting on Shock and Awe. Thankfully I have been watching sales for awhile so I had a big enough rack I never had to stress about saving pieces or running out of a certain size.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s
I made my first trip to Tennessee wall yesterday. It won't be my last.



Jay Walker

I sewed it up, I figure as long I was stuck in the crack why not take a secound and place some gear.



A view from the chains on Plastic Toys

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

Hackan Slash posted:

Can anyone recommend a good rock gym in Vegas, preferably near the strip? I figure I'll ask here before trying a random one off Google. It'll be for some amateurs.

I climbed at the refuge last time I was in Vegas for a bit. It isn't too far from the south end of the strip but your uber drive will be a little sketched out by the location.

I wasn't blown away by it but it did scratch the itch.

Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

KingColliwog posted:

For the moment I'm only wanting to get into top roping in easily accessible places where you can access the anchors from the top and then walk down before climbing. There's quite a few nice easy spot like that close-by. I'm really only looking to learn the basics and supplement my bouldering. I will probably wait until next summer to get into actual "real" climbing outdoors unless a very experimented friend lures me deeper.

What is the equipment one would need for that?

I would suggest looking at an https://www.activejunky.com/ account for when you can't get things from your local gear shop. Getting 8%-12% cash back can take a little of the sting out of buying gear.

What areas are you near? If you post the crag name some bored goons that have been locked out of climbing might go on mountain project and look at some routes and help guide your gear selection.

I have the Falcon Guide 'Climbing Anchors' book. It deals alot with building gear anchors so it might be overkill for clipping bolts but it does do a good job of explaining the pros and cons of a few different systems for bolted anchors and a great reference for knots. My local library also had 'Rock Climbing: The AMGA Single Pitch Manual' in E book form so I read that during lock down. Not sure I'd pay for it but it was worth a look.

KingColliwog posted:

Yeah getting to the anchors is one of the big question mark I have. Some are safely accessible from the top and I won't have any problem accessing them to stick a personal anchor in them, but some other ones are "safe". Like I could go there 1000 time and not fall down, but I could see how one could get super unlucky and slip while trying to clip in. My climbing buddy injured his wrist when we were bouldering earlier this week so I'm going to use the time off climbing to get a good look at how accessible the bolts are on "walk-ups" and try to see if there's some way to anchor myself to access them safely. Probably going to go take a look tomorrow.

Smart move, even just knowing the best approach makes doing a little scouting worthwhile. It is less embarrassing and frustrating to wander around with the guide book alone than to have all your gear on your back and a friend eager to climb and not be able to find the area you are looking for. Super hero points if you do a little trash pick up while you scout.

I took an anchors class a couple years ago and the instructor would have us tether in while working at the cliff edge. It was a simple system, sling a tree, a big rock or place a bomber piece of gear, then attach a bit of cord long enough to reach the work area, put a stopper knot in the end of the cord and use a prusik clipped to your belay loop to attach to the cord. By slipping the prusik along the cord you keep the fall distance low and still are able to move around a bit.

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Sound_man
Aug 25, 2004
Rocking to the 80s

KingColliwog posted:

I'm getting a 70m rope since I have a pretty good price on one anyway and stocks are really low in the shops around here. Not much choice.

It looks like Mont Wright is pretty short. I'd keep an eye on gear express for when they have 30m-40m lengths in stock. I'm lazy so I like to have a couple ropes to pick from so I'm not hiking in more than I have to.

KingColliwog posted:

Just to make sure it's clear since I might suck at describing things. Most of the lines I'd climb have equipment similar to this (no chain and not the same equipment for the bolt), a similar distance away from the edge. I would like my stuff to look like this basically :

I hadn't put much thought on the abrasion that could happen on the anchor. The piece of carpet or similar sounds like a good enough solution just to be safe.

Anchor building can be pretty subjective. The set up in that photo is plenty good enough. I would have put the lower biener under the chain to help it lay nicer. If I was going to by running a large group up it I'd want to have a longer quad. For a couple burns between two people I wouldn't be too bothered by it.

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