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I've done em with a 110v welder no problem, hell, even a fluxcore. Also, yours is really really not that bad, you can probably safely ignore it for like another 75k miles before you actually have to do anything about that. Ideal? No. Works? Yes.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:03
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I sanded it smooth and put some grease on the part of the knuckle where the pads slide. I've got a bit of grabbing on that side, and it squeaks sometimes when not on the brakes. Bit of brake dust on that side that the other doesn't. I get paid on Wednesday, so much for that paycheck.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:08
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Replacing the battery in my 2003 Mustang Mach 1, when I hook up the red terminal the horn goes off and will not stop going off no matter how much i fiddle with the key fob, mash the lock unlock doors button or turn the key in the ignition. Something hosed up or am I doing something wrong? The car has been sitting for at least a year.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:31
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Connect the battery the right way around and pray you didn't just do four figures in damage to your electrical system by hooking it up backwards. 99% of the time that's because the battery is in backwards, double check your terminals before hooking it up again.
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Jul 10, 2015 01:38
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I'm 100% certain I hooked up the black to the (-) and the red to the (+).
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Jul 10, 2015 01:43
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davecrazy posted:Replacing the battery in my 2003 Mustang Mach 1, when I hook up the red terminal the horn goes off and will not stop going off no matter how much i fiddle with the key fob, mash the lock unlock doors button or turn the key in the ignition. Are you reinstalling an old battery or putting in a new one? Either way, are you sure the battery is good? Also, will the vehicle start and drive?
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Jul 10, 2015 02:28
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Cage posted:Oh deng. Oops. Not easy in a 3.8? Plugs are a loving BITCH in a 3.8 Taurus, I know that.
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Jul 10, 2015 04:40
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Godholio posted:Plugs are a loving BITCH in a 3.8 Taurus, I know that.
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Jul 10, 2015 05:18
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I'm planning to change the oil + filter on my 97 Ranger on Saturday, but tomorrow (Friday) I'll be poking around near some autoparts stores. Anything else quick-and-easy I should add to the list? I did the air filter about 5000 km ago (mostly highway), and the cooling system appears to be in great shape. Rotate the tires or something like that?
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Jul 10, 2015 05:53
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ExecuDork posted:I'm planning to change the oil + filter on my 97 Ranger on Saturday, but tomorrow (Friday) I'll be poking around near some autoparts stores. Anything else quick-and-easy I should add to the list? I did the air filter about 5000 km ago (mostly highway), and the cooling system appears to be in great shape. Rotate the tires or something like that? Fuel filter if it's original I guess.
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Jul 10, 2015 06:37
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I tried again just now and everything worked like it's should. No horn and it turned right over.  Everything works (wipers, headlights, AC) except the radio. That's not coming on. E: Radio was just a blown fuse. davecrazy fucked around with this message at 14:55 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 14:28
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Still have four plugs to do, but it has fresh filters and oil (had other stuff to do yesterday and it started storming, so  ). ABS light decided to come on, but fluid and brakes are fine. Didn't see any missing sensors or destroyed wires. Is there any cheap way to check what is setting this? (Still a 2K Ford Expedition)
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Jul 10, 2015 15:55
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Krakkles posted:They usually are in cars with V-engines pointed the wrong way. V engines pointed the wrong way are engineers of telling the world to gently caress off.
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Jul 10, 2015 17:42
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So, a friend backed into my car and did some very minor paint damage. I'm not interested in going through insurance or getting any money from her or anything, but I would like to fix this as best as possible.  It's kind of difficult to tell from the picture since the car is sitting in direct sunlight, but the damage seems to be 100% paint. There's no dent and the panel hasn't shifted. There's another, similar scratch on the rear of the wheel well that I didn't bother taking a picture of. The paint is kind of curled up around the damage, so I'm assuming my best bet to touch this up would be to sand it down first? I've done chip and scratch touch up pretty successfully in the past, but this is more severe than anything I've had to deal with so any advice would be appreciated.
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Jul 10, 2015 18:49
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Paradoxish posted:So, a friend backed into my car and did some very minor paint damage. I'm not interested in going through insurance or getting any money from her or anything, but I would like to fix this as best as possible. Yeah, sand it down. Get your paint matched at DrColorChip.com. Depending on what you have/use, you may want to (re)apply clearcoat. Also, I have removed the bracket holding the power steering tank by the engine (to replace the other bank of plugs and coils), and my ABS light magically went out (for now). Must be some strange electrical gremlin. Starting to hate this thing. Need to test a couple more coils on Cyl 1 before I exchange any others ($35 for a set of 8? Yeah those are going to last..) Flo Cytometer fucked around with this message at 19:14 on Jul 10, 2015 |
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Jul 10, 2015 19:11
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Paradoxish posted:So, a friend backed into my car and did some very minor paint damage. I'm not interested in going through insurance or getting any money from her or anything, but I would like to fix this as best as possible. Flo Cytometer posted:Yeah, sand it down. Get your paint matched at DrColorChip.com. Depending on what you have/use, you may want to (re)apply clearcoat. Don't sand it. Each step of removal you do, the spot becomes significantly larger. Get a Magic Eraser, wet it and use it on the spot, a lot of the rubbing will probably disappear. Then take a picture and let's see from there.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:33
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EVERYWHERE 
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92 Camry 4 cylinder, rack and pinion confirmed bad at the shop, steering is very heavy and uneven. Do I risk anything worse than sore arms by driving it for a while before fixing it?
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Jul 10, 2015 20:37
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VelociBacon posted:Fuel filter if it's original I guess. That's a good idea. I was looking up a how-to ("have a fire extinguisher handy") when I remembered that my mechanic checked it and told me it was in good shape and not original when I brought the truck to him after I bought it. Still a good suggestion even if I don't need to do it now, thanks.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:37
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Jack B Nimble posted:92 Camry 4 cylinder, rack and pinion confirmed bad at the shop, steering is very heavy and uneven. Do I risk anything worse than sore arms by driving it for a while before fixing it? Depends on how you mean "bad" - if it's just the power assist, not too much risk but not the safest thing on earth. If it's the steering gear itself, don't drive it.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:39
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Depends on how you mean "bad" - if it's just the power assist, not too much risk but not the safest thing on earth. If it's the steering gear itself, don't drive it. It turns well enough but when I say the steering is uneven the resistance changes as you turn the wheel. Would that uneveness point to the gear?
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Jul 10, 2015 20:49
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The time to stop driving is now.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:51
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Yeah probably don't drive that poo poo because, you know, sometimes you NEED to steer like right now &c and it sounds like you might not be able to do that. edit: what did the shop actually say is wrong
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Jul 10, 2015 20:53
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Check the balljoints too. I have seen balljoints give that kind of steering feel and one ended up snapping in half on a friend of mine shortly afterwards. Fortunately it happened as he was driving down my street 150' from my property, so we dragged it back and fixed it. Balljoint stud snapped in half due to being seized for so long which fatigued the stud, suspension collapsed, CV shaft separated. We ended up doing both lower balljoints, both front wheel bearings, the front brakes, and a CV shaft all that day because on that design you can't get the balljoints (or the brakes) out without pulling the wheel bearings out and the bearings and brakes were due for replacement anyways. But yes, have that fixed immediately.
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Jul 10, 2015 20:59
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A slipping power steering belt or dying pump can cause exactly that "lumpy" feel, too.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:02
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I'll second kastein on suspension components. I borrowed my mom's Trailblazer for a road trip once, and noted that randomly while parking it would feel like the power steering was completely cutting out. I drove it home (some 800mi round trip) and told her to have her shop check the power steering. I never did find out whether it was a balljoint or tie rod, but it definitely wasn't a hydraulic failure. About poo poo myself when I heard that.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:04
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Thanks guys, I'm phone posting at work and just reporting what my girlfriend said second hand regarding the shop diagnosis. I drove it myself yesterday so if the description of the feeling is bad that's on me. Once I'm home I'll come back with more info, but this is a fairly 'new' part a shade tree friend fixed for her some months ago, if my memory of that fiasco of repeat repairs is correct. So yeah I'm suspicious but I'll have to wait before I can report back with better info.
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Jul 10, 2015 21:09
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meatpimp posted:Don't sand it. Each step of removal you do, the spot becomes significantly larger. Huh. Good idea. I've never had a problem wetsanding small bits, but then again I don't tend to care what my cars look like since they're long past their use-by date. Also, I got Cyl 8 done before 7. Didn't expect 7 to be such a pain in the rear end- but of course 4 was the worst.  Gee, maybe this is why it was throwing a misfire (left plug). No obvious impact on the plug- I think someone bent it trying to put it in.
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Jul 10, 2015 23:22
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I'm replacing the hatch lift supports on my 2009 VW Rabbit. I ordered the ones that came up as a fit at Autozone (Mighty Lift D95882) but they're about an inch and a half longer than the OEM supports, and I can't fit them in fully extended. Am I supposed to be able to compress these things first, or do I have to go yell at autozone and get a different fit?
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Jul 11, 2015 17:38
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Thanks for the advice, guys. I hit that section up with a Magic Eraser this morning. It cleaned it up a bit, but the paint is still obviously raised/curling where the damage is: Here's the slightly more serous damage on the opposite side of the wheel well:  That black mark is right down to the plastic. I can't feel any of the scuff marks with a fingernail, so I'm hoping buffing will at least minimize them. I'll reevaluate that section after I get a chance to do that. I'm still not quite sure how the damage turned out this way without there being any dents or additional body damage, but whatever.
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Jul 11, 2015 18:38
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Toebone posted:I'm replacing the hatch lift supports on my 2009 VW Rabbit. I ordered the ones that came up as a fit at Autozone (Mighty Lift D95882) but they're about an inch and a half longer than the OEM supports, and I can't fit them in fully extended. Am I supposed to be able to compress these things first, or do I have to go yell at autozone and get a different fit? Go yell at autozone.
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Jul 11, 2015 19:09
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Paradoxish posted:Thanks for the advice, guys. I hit that section up with a Magic Eraser this morning. It cleaned it up a bit, but the paint is still obviously raised/curling where the damage is: quote:Here's the slightly more serous damage on the opposite side of the wheel well: The black mark looks like the base plastic, under the clear and under the paint. It needs touched up. Dr. Colorchip would work very well. It'd take a half-dozen light coats over a week or two to build it back, but you can make it barely noticable. Before you do that, though, use a random orbit buffer and some Meguiars Ultimate Compound and it'll remove almost all of the scuff marks on that side. Once you're done with the polishing, then touch up the chip and consider yourself lucky it was that easy to address!
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Jul 11, 2015 19:33
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Hi guys, forgive me as I'm pretty much car disabled but I've got a 2001 Buick Regal 3.8L V6. About a week or so ago I noticed it was slipping a bit while shifting, I work out of town in a camp situation for 12 days straight (and we get a work truck provided so I wasn't driving it much at all for those two weeks) so I thought I'd just take it looked at when I was getting my brake rotors looked at back in town. I did that today. The error that is coming back from a diagnosis is a P1811 (Tranny Issue) Pressure Control Solenoid and I've done a bit of looking online for some more information. Apparently it's a known issue and I found this article which seems to go into detail about diagnosing the problem and getting it fixed. However, I found another link that is recommending a bunch of other things and cheaper fixes. Don't know if this affects anything but I did have the transmission flushed once when I got it (used) a couple of years ago and again I think like 2-3 months ago if memory serves. Basically I'm wondering if the issue seems like something that a mechanic will be able to pin-point and fix for a reasonable price as honestly money is a bit tight right now. I bought a place at the beginning of May and switched programs in my government job and payroll has been bad and I haven't got a cheque in over a month. lovely as I was planning on buying myself a new(er) vehicle within the next year but not immediately as I figure it might be just be better to do that than try and get the tranny rebuilt or something like that. Thanks for any help. doctor 7 fucked around with this message at 02:56 on Jul 12, 2015 |
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Jul 12, 2015 02:50
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I was trying to rotate my tires and had loosened all my lug nuts with an impact gun. All the lugs loosened up and i pulled them all off by hand except one. The last one is near the end of the stud and spins freely but will not unthread all of the way. The exposed threads on the stud look fine, and the stud does not move nor is the nut rounded off. What did i do and how do i get the nut off? The car is an 08 impreza and has 5 studs per wheel, so i should be ok to drive it with just 4 on there if i have trashed the nut or stud right? Of course it's sunday and i have to drive 3 hours this afternoon. I'm posting from my mobile so i apologize for the grade school grammar
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Jul 12, 2015 15:44
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Sounds like you or someone cross threaded the lug. Best bet is to take it somewheer so they can cut the lug and replace the stud withiut loving it all up Yes youll be fine for a trip with all other lugs on.
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Jul 12, 2015 16:20
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Jeff Gerber posted:The last one is near the end of the stud and spins freely but will not unthread all of the way. The exposed threads on the stud look fine, and the stud does not move nor is the nut rounded off. Switch to a hand wrench and try to put some leverage behind the lug with a screwdriver. Just a little change in angle will hopefully let the lug come the rest of the way off.
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Jul 12, 2015 16:54
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Thanks guys! I was able to apply some leverage and get it off. While rotating the tires i noticed two more studs on another wheel that had the first 8th to 4th of an inch of thread ground off. Im sure the cause is the slop jockeys at town fair tire, but it's my fault for taking the car there in the first place. Appreciate the advice.
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Jul 12, 2015 19:31
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I just bought a 90+% tread set of Bridgestone B420 ( ) for stupid cheap for the beater forester, and I kinda want to figure out how good they are, but I haven't been able to really find anything on them online. Anybody have experience with them? Or has stronger search skills and can find a review from back when they were released?
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Jul 12, 2015 20:16
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I have a 2014 Kia Soul Plus. The high *and* low beams went out on the left side. I only noticed recently, but I assume it happened at the same time. It's two different bulbs, right? It seems like a strange coincidence that both would go out on the same side at (presumably) the same time, so I wonder could it be something other than bad bulbs?
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Jul 13, 2015 01:54
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LargeHadron posted:I have a 2014 Kia Soul Plus. The high *and* low beams went out on the left side. I only noticed recently, but I assume it happened at the same time. It's two different bulbs, right? It seems like a strange coincidence that both would go out on the same side at (presumably) the same time, so I wonder could it be something other than bad bulbs? Turn the vehicle on, see which light lights up with low beams on the right side and see if the same one lights up when you switch to high beams. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 02:29 on Jul 13, 2015 |
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Jul 13, 2015 02:26
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Elmnt80 posted:Turn the vehicle on, see which light lights up with low beams on the right side and see if the same one lights up when you switch to high beams. I did that earlier, and it seemed like it's all just a single bulb, but I found this document online that differentiates between a high beam bulb and a low beam bulb (http://www.kisouman.com/light_bulbs-817.html). So I got confused.
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Jul 13, 2015 02:34
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