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Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Anyone know a trick on how to patch a hole in a CV boot? It's a tiny hole but it's spurting grease everywhere. I read somewhere that using a new boot, and cutting out the groove you need and putting it over the groove with the hole in it, sealing it with silicone. IDK, but I really don't want to use a split boot because they are poo poo and I REALLY don't want to take the axle apart for a tiny hole.

I also suppose I'd have to get some grease in back in it, is it ok to break the clamp and replace it with a zip tie?

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Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Fucknag posted:

Rubber cement's loving weak though; I can see it not breaking under bending, but a CV boot gets stretched and compressed as it rotates around, I don't know if it would hold up to that sort of strain over the little surface area of a split.

RTV is what I'd try first. Best method OFC would be to disassemble and replace the boot, but they said they don't wanna do that.

Yeah I've got RTV, guess I could clean the poo poo out of it and try that. it's just a small hole.

I'm not sure how long it's been going like that though, is it safe to say I should probably put some more grease in there?

[e] If the RTV method doesn't hold up I guess I'll suck it up and replace the boot.

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Feb 28, 2015

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

What's a good adhesive for fusing plastic and vinyl together? I have to glue a plastic speaker grill to the vinyl door panel. I tried using Loctite Fabric glue which specifically said bonds plastic and vinyl but it lasted about a month. I was thinking maybe an epoxy?

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Cool. Hot glue sounds great, but the problem with that is the poo poo dries before I can get it attached :argh:

Also noticed in the link it says to sand smooth plastic, that's probably half the problem.

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 02:12 on Mar 16, 2015

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Anyone got any good ideas on how to find a fuel leak other than getting under the car and looking for dripping or wet spots? There's nothing obvious, but I can definitely smell it and mpg is starting to suffer. It's a '96 4cyl Camry, any ideas?

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Motronic posted:

It's probably on the top of the tank (fuel will pool in the indentation where the pump and sensor goes) if you smell it for a while. You'll get it there when you fill or when it's mostly full and sloshes around.

I don't think there's going to be any easy way to check - you should pretty much run that thing down to E and drop the tank.

If it's just after you fill see how much of the filler neck you can get too.

And that's if it's in the back. Up front should be easier. Normal suspects are fuel hose to FPR and rail connections and around the injectors.

It's constant and not just after filling. Oh well, gonna have to dig deep I guess, I'll check the fuel pump first probably, I really don't wanna drop the tank.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Motronic posted:

Can you tell if it's front or back? Like, especially right after driving (so you've blown the stank off of it).

And also, are you parking in places where you would be able to see dripping or are you like me and parking on gravel where it has to be gallons before you can tell? My standard move is cardboard. See what comes down from where.

Can't really tell if it's front or back, but it is usually right after driving. I'm gonna have it on stands soon to replace the struts so I was gonna start it up and check everything out.

Leperflesh posted:

Super low-hanging fruit: check the evap line. Not becuase it's super likely you're losing a lot of fuel from it, but because it's a cheaper fix.

How can I find a leak in the evap system without a smoke tester or something?

There's no CEL by the way, should I have the codes checked anyway?

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah I can get to the pump under the back seat, I'll do that after checking all the lines and poo poo. Gonna check for codes just to be sure too.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I've got an AC issue as well. 2012 Scion xB.

Blows hot initially, slowly gets cold after about five minutes but not really cold enough. Checked refrigerant and it's fine in the green. Any ideas? How can I tell if the compressor is hosed?

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 06:17 on May 3, 2017

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah they don't have a very good track record and are generally lovely cars.

Get this instead, 10 times better in every way

https://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/6089680222.html

[e] steal for that car if it's in decent condition, miles don't really matter if it was taken care of. If you want a V8 sedan a Lexus GS or LS is your best bet.

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 17:12 on May 4, 2017

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah I wouldn't hesitate to buy one with over 200k that was taken care of. Even the timing belt is not a problem, it's the water pumps that usually go before that.

The LS is nice, but if you can find a LS430 that's the way to go, I own one and it's the best car I've ever owned in my 46 yrs on this planet. The amount of car you can get for the money is just stupid.

Cage, use this website to check the VIN and get service histories. That LS430 I posted is a steal if it's in good condition.

http://drivers.lexus.com/lexusdrivers/history

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Pretty sure it's called butyl.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I have kind of a dumb question......I just received some OEM LED daytime running lights for my Scion xB, the problem is my car is the year before ('12) they started using them ('13), and although they will fit in the same spot in the bumper, there is no wiring harness for them. The harness plug that was available that i thought would work must be for fog lights because it's a completely different style plug and there is no power going to it since i do not have that option. So now I need to wire them to the ignition fuse so they will be on whenever the car is on. My question is do I need some sort of a relay or can I wire them directly to the 12 volt ignition with an add-a-curcuit? Also there appears to be no markings for positive or negative, if i reverse them on accident will it fry the LEDs?

[e] someone in another thread I was reading said there would have to be a mechanical relay that automatically switches the DRLs to be powered by a dimmer circuit when the parking lights are switched on at night. Is this accurate?

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 20:44 on Jan 9, 2019

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I have an alignment question....I'm getting ready to put springs in my xB that are about 1.5 inched shorter than stock and according to people in the xB forums lowering the rear messes up the TOE, so it's a good idea to shim the hubs in the front to bring out the toe so it won't eat tires faster. Does this sound accurate? I've never hear of toe being effected form lowering a car, camber sure but not toe.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

powderific posted:

No idea how much difference it actually makes, but it's cause the rear suspension is a torsion beam, so as you raise or lower it it changes the toe and camber a little. Like, if you rotate the whole thing 90 degrees camber becomes toe, etc.

Ok that makes sense, I keep forgetting this car has a torsion beam in the rear.

Now I just have to find an alignment shop that will do it correctly and shim the hubs.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Enos Cabell posted:

I picked up a 2006 nissan sentra se-r spec v for $500 this past weekend. Salvage title allegedly due to hail damage which has since been repaired, but mechanically it seems sound. Was my brothers daily driver for the past few years with no problems. I'm leaning towards getting in to rally/auto cross with this thing, but I'm not really sure what all I'd need to do to get the car ready for that. I'll be doing an oil change and swap in new spark plugs this weekend and will get it in for an alignment. Past that, what should I be prioritizing here? Hoping to do most of the wrenching myself.



Get an EGR delete kit if it doesn't have one already

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Brettbot posted:

Short version: Is there any reason not to buy a $3800 '68 AMC Rambler if I'm not a car guy but wish I was?

Long version: My first car was a '75 Dart Swinger, but after only a couple of weeks, one of the torsion bars broke and the condo that I grew up in had the car towed and junked because it was "non-operable". That was over 15 years ago and I've never owned another old car since, but I've been thinking about that car a lot lately (lockdown madness maybe). The most work I've done on my cars since then was changing the power steering fluid in my CR-V.
So anyways, I was on Craigslist the other day and saw this '68 Rambler about 20 minutes from me. Assuming there's nothing wrong with the car, would I be foolish to buy it and try to maintain it myself? I know nothing about AMC except that they're obviously less common than Dodge, Ford, Chevy, etc., are they particularly expensive or difficult? A quick look at eBay shows decent AMCs listed for $3-7K plus shipping.

Apologies if there was a better place to post this!

if it's going to be a second vehicle to tinker with and drive on nice weekends, sure go for it. As a daily driver it's a horrible idea.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah Darts are not that hard to find just be patient if that's what you really want

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:

Alright, I’m gearing up to do my first oil change on my 2017 Accord hybrid. Is there any real point to paying more for a Mobil filter rated at 20k miles vs Fram at 10k? Right now I’m at almost 11k since purchase and car showing 15% on the oil (hoping this is decent data from the car on the oil, it’s not a pre-set interval AFAIK). I get the media may be better, just wasn’t sure it would prove out in the real world.

Yeah no Fram it's garbage tier. Get the Mobil 1 filter, I use them to go with the extended life oil in which case you want the best filter you can get.

Even if you're doing a budget oil change there's much better than Fram for the same price like Wix and Purolator to name a few.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Outrail posted:

What's wrong with fram? I like the sandpaper grip

Cardboard endcaps are the biggest complaint about them. Most other makes use metal.

If you're using Synthetic oil get the best possible filter you can because you're changing at longer intervals so the filter needs to last longer.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Wondering if anyone can figure this out because I can't lol.

The hood latch on my car ('15 Scion xB) is not holding the hood snug, I can move it up by hand about a 1/4 of an inch, and at speed on the interstate I can watch it bouncing up and down. When i pull the hood latch it doesn't "pop" at all but releases the lock, so it seems to lock properly but it's a bit concerning especially on the interstate because I'm just waiting for it to fly up in my face.

The latch itself does have a small bit of adjustability (maybe an eight of an inch) so I tried lowering it and raising it and there was no difference either way. There is some slack at the end of the cable where it attaches to the latch but I'm not sure if that matters or not.

Is there anything I'm missing? I feel like it's something obvious right in front of my face but these days my brain doesn't work as well as it used to.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

skipdogg posted:

This is my thought as well. I had this happen on a Ford Explorer and adjusting the rubber hood bumper stop things upward reduced it.

cursedshitbox posted:

Do this. Adjust those and the hood latch to keep the hood flush with the bodywork.

This was it, I knew it was something simple lol. Thanks guys.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Cage posted:

Yeah but then add in laying on your back staring up at a thing thats facing a certain way and all your axis start blending together.

Especially with beer and/or weed in you

Pedals on bikes always gently caress me up that way because one of them is threaded backwards and I can't ever remember which one :v:

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

So I'm looking at adding on a GPS module to my '15 Scion xB. The Scion modules seem to be the same as the Toyota modules but are more expensive for some reason, is there any reason to think the Toyota module won't work for my scion?

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Toyota-Scion-Harman-extension-Navigation-Module-86100-YY050/193856430075?hash=item2d22be5ffb:g:UKYAAOSw4I5gB2Iv

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/12-13-14-To...5.c101196.m2219

Part numbers are different, altho the second one references the first.

They look identical obviously, the only thing I'm worried about is the wiring pins being the same

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I don't want to do that tho, I hate using my phone for poo poo other than just calling and texting. I use CDs and a memory stick for music. I will occasionally stream a podcast but that's it.

It already has a Pioneer unit in it from the factory that sounds really good, I just want to add the factory GPS specifically so I don't have to use my phone for GPS.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I understand all that, and I was looking at other head units initially but it's overkill for what i need and I like the factory head unit that's in the car.....And I'm a bit of a car audio snob too, if it sounded like poo poo I would have replaced it already.

I don't need traffic updates (I don't work, no commute), and I don't need GPS really for the city I live in (Tampa bay area) because I know it like the back of my hand, it's more for the occasional in-state camping/paddling trips I take now and then to FL state parks and poo poo like that.

I don't know maybe I sound like a luddite, but I figured if i could get the module cheap enough ($150) I'd rather do that then go through getting a new head unit because the good ones aren't exactly cheap and then it would have a bunch of poo poo on it I would never use anyway.

[e] besides, wouldn't cell phone based GPS be spotty in the rural areas i would be going to anyway?

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 21:26 on Apr 8, 2021

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

What's the best OBD reader app for iPhones? unfortunately Torque isn't available for apple for whatever reason

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Question about donuts (not the Dunkin kind, the spare tire kind)

Is the 50mph limit that's stated on the tire a hard cutoff or more for legal/liability purposes? My wife hit a piece of pavement in the road and popped a hole in the sidewall. The dealership is the only place with the right tires in stock and it needs a service anyway, but it's 25 miles away and she's gotta take the interstate.

I put the donut on the rear (FWD Avalon) so I figured it would be ok on the interstate as long as she's not doing 70 or something, but if it's too risky I'll just order a tire local and wait.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Hadlock posted:

I'm not sure what the lifespan is of a spare tire but if it's older than ~10 years I'd be extra cautious using it.

It's a brand new car, brand new spare lol.

It was definitely a bit sketchy with it on the front and drove funny, but when I moved it to the rear it's 100% better and I barely notice it tbh. Drove it around town some more today and I think it should be fine for one 25 mile jaunt on the interstate at reasonable speeds.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

mastershakeman posted:

Yeah, I'd been using yelp/nextdoor and so far I was real pleased with the second mechanic. My spouse is just super into we need to get more quotes and prices! For the hub bearing, which sounds bad enough to me that I don't want to dick around with getting it worked on.
Sadly that bsg automotive guy is over an hour away with no traffic.

If you know exactly what you need done you can call around and get quotes, but most shops worth their salt are not going to diagnose your car for a free estimate. They will charge you a diagnostic fee and if you chose to have them fix it they will subtract it from the final bill. Otherwise you're stuck with the fee.

Price is secondary to quality of work and transparency. You might get a cheaper price but then you might get a hack working on your car too, focus on shops that are rated highly for quality work not price.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

tactlessbastard posted:

What kind of ticking time bomb is a 2007 ML350? My brother in law wants to get rid of his so he can keep his new tesla in the garage lol.

Depends, is he the original owner, and did he meticulously maintain it and have ALL the records with no deferred regular scheduled maintenance?

If not don't bother

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

tactlessbastard posted:

Yes, he is a fastidious guy, all services done, and it has 180k.

Well then it would depend on the price, if he's giving you a great deal cuz you're family then grab it, if not maybe find something else that has better reliability at those kind of miles like a Lexus.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Mean Baby posted:

Not sure if this is the right thread, but my fiance got in an accident. She is doing fine, but my 2016 VW GTI Sport with Red Trim is likely totaled. It had about 50K miles on it.

I'm gutted, I love the car and I don't think insurance will give me the money for what it is worth. Plus, interest rates suck which mean taking out a car loan to "upgrade" is going to cost a fortune.

I'm not even sure if I have a question, other than, any recommend tips for someone who needs to buy a new car and not get ratfucked?

Don't just roll over and take whatever the insurance company offers you. Do the research on what your car is worth and push back until they make a reasonable offer, especially if you can afford to be without a car for a bit then you have more leverage.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

I got a Garmin brand new in box for $25 and it mounts perfectly right in front of my steering wheel, and doesn't block the speedo because I have a scion xB with the cluster in the middle. I can mute it and just glance down at it now and then to see where I need to go. I can't stand listening to GPS directions constantly so it works out perfect for me for the few times I actually need it.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

DildenAnders posted:

The pedal was sticking in the middle, both as I was engaging and disengaging the clutch. It never got stuck all the way on the floor and I never had to pump it up ie it didn't feel like I lost the hydraulics.

With how old the car is I would definitely put in a new master and slave, replace the old fluid with new and bleed. It's probably due anyway and it's a cheap easy service unless the slave is in the housing or something.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

hedgegnome posted:

Oh hello. Say, Ive got a 68 barracuda with a 318. I think i just discovered why it hasn't been registered since 2008. Since i bought it, i've never driven it, only idled it for a few moments just enough to move it around a little. I've been replacing the brakes and wheels and other things to make it drivable, as i thought the engine was good. Before i ran it, i checked the dipstick and it looked fine. I let it run the other day long enough to get up to about 170 to check my new temp gauge, and shut it off. Today, i ran it for about 5 minutes while i checked my new alternator. I checked the oil, and it came out brown. While it was running, i looked in the valve cover through the breather valve and it looked like a delicious frosty chocolate milkshake was being prepared for me.

I don't know this cars history at all, so im assuming its head gaskets. I haven't drained the oil yet. Lots of things still up in the air here, and i don't know what my next step should be. The engine was running and sounded fine, i haven't seen it overheat. But since i don't know what happened to it before i got it, i'm assuming it has in the past. Whats the chance i can get away with just putting new head gaskets on it?

Take out the 318 and put in a 440. Enjoy the 440 noises :)

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006


Dude that is a sweet Mopar you got there. If the 318 is dead and you have to swap, a 440 is the way to go. You can find them in some old RVs to get one cheap.

You should consider starting a thread about it, there's lots of experienced guys with older cars like yours in AI that can help you out and we'd all like to see it.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

At 75k it's fine with a "flush" as long as a passive flush machine is used, like the BG machine.

The problem with flushes is when too much pressure is used, all that needs to be done is too remove all the old fluid and replace it with new, you don't need to blast the insides of the transmission to "clean it out". Whatever shop you take it to just make sure it's clear what kind of machine they are using, if it's a passive machine (very low pressure) you will be fine and that's the best way to do it to make sure all the old fluid is out.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

AlmightyPants posted:

Since I've been working remote and not really driving so much anymore I got a 2008 BMW Z4 Coupe last year. I figured I'd get a small sports car before I got to be an old man who made lots of noises getting into and out of a car that's too low.

I'm not doing a ton of miles in it because, again, working remote, but one of the reasons is that the ride is too darn harsh. Like I get out and my lower back is killing me. I love the car but the whole pain part isn't the best. I'm not sure if it's the seats, which aren't the greatest, the tires, which might be run-flat, or the suspension. NY roads also aren't doing any favors. Googling around the consensus seems to be the run flats are the worst. I'm just looking for some more input from some folks who are more knowledgeable than myself if I'm missing something.

Yeah I really thought I wanted a Z4 coupe until I drove one. It was an amazing car, but the ride was just way too harsh as a daily driver for imperfect city roads and urban sprawl with speed bumps everywhere you go. And it didn't have run flats so that had nothing to do with it. Switching out the tires will help a bit but it's just a band aid, it's a legit sports car with stiff suspension that wasn't designed for lovely roads.

It would be a great track car or for an area with perfect roads like somewhere in Japan or something.

[e] look into the Miata RF, similar style but much more forgiving

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 14:31 on Mar 28, 2023

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Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

EasilyConfused posted:

The battery has been tested by AAA when they jump started me once and they said it seemed fine. I'm not sure what testing (if any) the shop did.

I wouldn't go by what the AAA guy said. How old is the battery, there should be a date on the top of it.

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