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IM DAY DAY IRL
Jul 11, 2003

Everything's fine.

Nothing to see here.
Oh, I'm intimately familiar with the stock harness after the last bike I built up. the motivation for potentially* buying a simplified one was to streamline everything as much as possible when doing post-framework/paint assembly. even after a pretty substantial reduction of the stock harness on my '95 i'm likely going to have to go through it again this winter to do some simplification and elimination of excess/unused wires. sportster treatment doesn't stock harnesses for 04+ sportsters at this time, anyway


*i say potentially because, as an astute observer may have noticed, that spreadsheet is full of redundancies. it is by no means a purchase list, simply a way of me warehousing things that i may want to pick up at some point (or, in the case of the internal throttle, never at all) if there is a decent sale or a used version in good condition available to me.

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epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

IM DAY DAY IRL posted:

Oh, I'm intimately familiar with the stock harness after the last bike I built up. the motivation for potentially* buying a simplified one was to streamline everything as much as possible when doing post-framework/paint assembly. even after a pretty substantial reduction of the stock harness on my '95 i'm likely going to have to go through it again this winter to do some simplification and elimination of excess/unused wires. sportster treatment doesn't stock harnesses for 04+ sportsters at this time, anyway

Just curious, what parts of the stock harness are you planning on not using?

IM DAY DAY IRL
Jul 11, 2003

Everything's fine.

Nothing to see here.
at the very least the entire instrument panel (for this bike that'd be just speedo/odom and dummy lights) would be yanked and I'd continue utilizing my beeline for instances where it'd be good to know how fast i'm traveling. i know that they added some security components that didn't exist on my '95 that could likely be replace with a hidden kill switch if i felt the need to do so. start/kill switch would be eliminated/relocated in favor of an OFF/ON/START keyed switch. i'm incredibly unlikely do to some of the more radical removals that a lot of chop guys may do (like turn indicators, stop light switches, etc.) and now i'm more comfortable hacking up and re-soldering wires so its very likely that i'll be sticking with the stock harness and paring down as needed

Valt
May 14, 2006

Oh HELL yeah.
Ultra Carp
So it looks like I am going to be in the market for a 2014 street glide. My friend is buying a 2021 lowrider S, and I just sold the dyna. Basically the whole time I had the dyna I wanted hard bags and a real fairing. It had a removable windscreen which sort of worked but it let wind up under your helmet which was annoying. So I'm excited to have something with a real windscreen and hard bags.

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

Valt posted:

So it looks like I am going to be in the market for a 2014 street glide. My friend is buying a 2021 lowrider S, and I just sold the dyna. Basically the whole time I had the dyna I wanted hard bags and a real fairing. It had a removable windscreen which sort of worked but it let wind up under your helmet which was annoying. So I'm excited to have something with a real windscreen and hard bags.

That was exactly how I felt on my Sport Glide (softail). A little fairing was better than nothing, but I always felt like I was just trying to make it into a Street Glide. I eventually wound up going with a Road Glide, because I didn't like the compartments (or lack thereof) on the SG's fairing, but there's basically no functional difference between the RG and SG, it's just preference.

And I think 2014 was when they did the Rushmore touring bikes, so they integrated all the quality of life improvements of the last few years.

Valt
May 14, 2006

Oh HELL yeah.
Ultra Carp

Strife posted:

That was exactly how I felt on my Sport Glide (softail). A little fairing was better than nothing, but I always felt like I was just trying to make it into a Street Glide. I eventually wound up going with a Road Glide, because I didn't like the compartments (or lack thereof) on the SG's fairing, but there's basically no functional difference between the RG and SG, it's just preference.

And I think 2014 was when they did the Rushmore touring bikes, so they integrated all the quality of life improvements of the last few years.

Yeah all those bikes are basically the same. I just can't stand that side by side headlight setup on the road glide.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Bought it!

FBS
Apr 27, 2015

The real fun of living wisely is that you get to be smug about it.


That charger is a lot smaller than I thought it'd be.

IM DAY DAY IRL
Jul 11, 2003

Everything's fine.

Nothing to see here.
one would imagine the charging cord would be a little more substantial than that

IM DAY DAY IRL
Jul 11, 2003

Everything's fine.

Nothing to see here.
l o l

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




Harley innovating by making the charging cord and the aux cord the same thing









For real though if that’s the plug that goes into 120v household power it only needs to carry like 15 amps max and you don’t need some beefy undersea cable for 15 amps, plus you’d think you want the cable as small as possible to make it easy to bring with you.

Megabook
Mar 13, 2019



Grimey Drawer
That is a very nice colour.

I was wondering where you'd gone the other day. Glad you didn't get run over by a moving truck or something!

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

IM DAY DAY IRL posted:

one would imagine the charging cord would be a little more substantial than that

FBS posted:

That charger is a lot smaller than I thought it'd be.

Jim Silly-Balls posted:

Harley innovating by making the charging cord and the aux cord the same thing

For real though if that’s the plug that goes into 120v household power it only needs to carry like 15 amps max and you don’t need some beefy undersea cable for 15 amps, plus you’d think you want the cable as small as possible to make it easy to bring with you.

The charger is this, and it's 240v :britain:

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?
I put a larger windshield on my Road Glide. It's a Memphis Shades 8.5".



I hate the way it looks, so much, but it's so much better than the 6" Klockwerks one I had on there. For some reason the KW windshield would send turbulent wind directly at my helmet, so riding above 40mph or on the highway got annoying pretty fast. This one doesn't do that at all, but isn't so tall that it completely restricts airflow.

Why do useful things have to look so nerdy.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Strife posted:

Why do useful things have to look so nerdy.

It's no windjammer, looks good to me :shrug:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Strife posted:

Why do useful things have to look so nerdy.

A man with a faired Harley should already be at peace with this question

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




*laughs in beige goldwing*

Revvik
Jul 29, 2006
Fun Shoe
It looks good, like it belongs there from just that one pic.

IM DAY DAY IRL
Jul 11, 2003

Everything's fine.

Nothing to see here.
waited until some of the sites started offering their early BF deals to pick up some components and, after a lot of introspection (and double-checking of my budget for this bike) i opted to go with a simple set of +6 tubes over going full show bike with a springer and the required new rotors, caliper, and plate adapter to mount modern spacing bars. also picked up a set of vintage-styled controls and a single cable throttle. anyway check out the new stance;

stock


on the lift with the new tubes


on the ground (with the absolutely necessary 2x4 under the stock kickstand)


next up is finding a good pair of rabbit ears so i can start cleaning up the cockpit a bit and figure out exactly how long of cables i have to order to reattach the front caliper

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Bob is back and is looking mint.





Separate question:
Can you put dual discs brakes on a Fat Boy? Keep thinking I really love the look of the Fat Boy M8, but hate its front brake for being too weak.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

amount of discs has little to nothing to do with braking power, only fade. if you want more powerful / better feeling brakes you’d look into something like a brembo monoblock paired with an appropriate radial master cylinder brake lever

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

E:^^^ uuuuh think you're mistaken there dude, 2x brakes means 2x braking power. Like I get what you're saying but a Harley can't stoppie so more brakes does actually equal better stopping

Yes you can, modularity is like half the point of having a Harley. You could convert your entire bob into a boy or vice versa if you've got the cash, it can crossbreed with every m8 equipped bike except the baggers.

But after you fix the brakes you have to fix the handling and ergonomics and in the end you're just making a fat bob, which you already have.

Gorson
Aug 29, 2014

Steakandchips posted:

Bob is back and is looking mint.





Separate question:
Can you put dual discs brakes on a Fat Boy? Keep thinking I really love the look of the Fat Boy M8, but hate its front brake for being too weak.

The easiest *cough* way of adding dual brakes to a bike without them is to change to a front end with the same stem length and bearings so the whole thing is *in theory* a direct swap. However Harleys have the benefit of the aftermarket and I'm sure someone has made some kind of caliper adapter for them, or there exists a 6 piston that bolts directly on. That with a better rotor and the most kickass pads you can find should make a big difference.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Gorson posted:

The easiest *cough* way of adding dual brakes to a bike without them is to change to a front end with the same stem length and bearings so the whole thing is *in theory* a direct swap. However Harleys have the benefit of the aftermarket and I'm sure someone has made some kind of caliper adapter for them, or there exists a 6 piston that bolts directly on. That with a better rotor and the most kickass pads you can find should make a big difference.

Thanks guys, good input. Think I'll not realise that Fat Boy dream just yet. Maybe in a few years.

I'm going to have some questions on how best to rotate the clutch hand lever down a few mm tomorrow, i.e. which bits need unscrewing and rescrewing, and at how many torques. Will take some photos first.

Strife
Apr 20, 2001

What the hell are YOU?

Steakandchips posted:

Thanks guys, good input. Think I'll not realise that Fat Boy dream just yet. Maybe in a few years.

I'm going to have some questions on how best to rotate the clutch hand lever down a few mm tomorrow, i.e. which bits need unscrewing and rescrewing, and at how many torques. Will take some photos first.

You could probably just push it really hard and it'll rotate down, but if not just back off the screws very slightly, twist it down, and then re-tighten them. As long as you're not tightening the absolute poo poo out of them you probably don't need the torque specs.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat

Strife posted:

You could probably just push it really hard and it'll rotate down, but if not just back off the screws very slightly, twist it down, and then re-tighten them. As long as you're not tightening the absolute poo poo out of them you probably don't need the torque specs.

Also, if you’re touching the fasteners I think you are, you’ll want a T27 torx bit (star pattern). The T25 will appear to fit, but you’ll be unwittingly rounding out your screw heads.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Yeah those are something you'd do with a bit driver (screwdriver with a quarter/hex fitting), and just nip them up by hand. Torquing switch blocks is 'windshield wiper for your oil sight glass' style insanity. I'd avoid using violence, usually just loosening off the bottom one is enough to get it to rotate a little. On a Harley you're limited by the wires going through the bars and the necessary asymmetrical stepped switch design, you might need to rotate the bars to change the angle past a certain point.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009



I just want the clutch lever to be lowered by about 2 or 3mm, so my wrist angle is more natural.

Which T27 screws do I need to loosen to do this?


1. (right where my fingernail is, apologies for blurriness)


2.


3.



I imagine the correct answer would be Screw number 2, but if it doesn't allow the lever to move, loosen 1 and 3 as well (which I think snug up the left side switchgear).


I have a T27, btw:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I usually loosen all three. The lever perch clamps onto the bar but the switch clamps onto the perch and won't let it move.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Thank you Slavvy.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Slavvy, I've shod Bob with the Night Dragons as you recommended.

It's been dry and sunny, but about 7 to 11C here when I've been out and about on Bob, and the rear feels slippery in corners, particularly at modest lean.

Is it me, is it the tyre, is the weather?

I don't remember the stock tyres feeling this way.

Goes without saying feel free to tell me I'm poo poo at riding!

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

If it's actually spinning up, it'll probably be because of the cold. What pressure you running?

If it feels nervous but doesn't actually break traction, it's more that they have a very triangular profile compared to what you're used to and will feel really tippy, getting gud + possibly small setup changes will ameliorate this.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Slavvy posted:

If it's actually spinning up, it'll probably be because of the cold. What pressure you running?

It's not spinning up. The pressure the shop sent it home with. Think it might be too much air pressure? I'll go check it tomorrow.

Slavvy posted:

If it feels nervous but doesn't actually break traction, it's more that they have a very triangular profile compared to what you're used to and will feel really tippy, getting gud + possibly small setup changes will ameliorate this.

It's nervous, no traction broken. It does indeed feel tippy.

It's making me nervous, which isn't going to help matters re me getting gud. Sigh. I'll probably put stock tyres on next if I don't warm up to these. I fully intend to get my money's worth though, i.e. putting 5,000 miles through the dragons and then change em out for stock. I've done about 80 so far.

Night dragons:



Stock:


Thank you though, quality advice as usual. :)

Steakandchips fucked around with this message at 21:24 on Mar 17, 2022

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

So it's not spinning and you have no idea what tire pressure you have in there. Don't really know what to say tbh.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

I'll check the pressures tomorrow.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Ah maybe you’ll get used to them. The first time I switched from stock (Michelin Scorchers) to those Pirellis, yeah, it felt weird for a bit. It’s like they want to tip/turn, much more than the stock tires that I suspect were designed to mostly want to go straight.

After a couple thousand kms I predict you’ll have a different opinion.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

epswing posted:

Ah maybe you’ll get used to them. The first time I switched from stock (Michelin Scorchers) to those Pirellis, yeah, it felt weird for a bit. It’s like they want to tip/turn, much more than the stock tires that I suspect were designed to mostly want to go straight.

After a couple thousand kms I predict you’ll have a different opinion.

Yeah exactly, this is why they're good tires unlike the deliberately horrendous Dunlops and Michelins every Harley seems to come with. I say deliberately because both of those companies are able to make good tires that turn well, but for some reason as soon as you say 'cruiser' they hear 'resist leaning at all costs' and build a car tyre.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

The rear night dragon is at 38psi.
The front night dragon is at 34psi.

Tested using a Venhill gauge, while the tyres are bone cold in the garage at about 5C.

Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

Let me know your thoughts on that pressure for those tyres.

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Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

That seems pretty low for such soft carcass tires on such a heavy bike, I'd run closer to like 38f/40r.

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