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ExecuDork posted:Those markings are: As you probably know, the max marking is the biggest cog the derailleur can handle. The total is almost certainly the derailleur's capacity, which is the unintuitive (max chainring-min chainring) + (max cog-min cog) measurement. To use CopperHound's examples (48-28) + (28-14) = 34T, or within capacity. If you go over, any chain long enough to accommodate the large-large gear combination will have slack in the small-small gear combination, because the derailleur cage just can't take up that much chain. Since you're thinking of going to a 7-speed, it's an important one to look at with any new gearset you pick up! Also please clean your derailleur pulleys, that's not helping your chain any. I'll second double checking your spindle length on the old BB. Chainline's just not a fun thing to mess with.
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Nov 15, 2020 05:18
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highme posted:Anything I need to watch out for setting up these brakes? I’ve never done anything with hydraulic brakes on a bike, so any advice would be appreciated. Getting those copper inserts into the end of each line proved too much with the rain (my bench vise is not easily accessed). Without going into bleed, the one hiccup I've seen a couple of times on a new install is folks not tightening the screw that goes into the caliper/brake enough the first time. Shimano spec is something like 8 Nm, but on a fresh line you're compressing the olive down onto the housing, so that torque often doesn't get the olive compressed enough and you can get a leak. If you're screwing the bolt in and it's got about half of the threads exposed, you're probably not in enough. You'll usually have around 1/3 of the threads exposed when it's in properly. The new 105s require an adapter for the funnel on a bleed, and here's your generic "don't get mineral oil on the rotor or the brake pads" warning.
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Dec 21, 2020 13:31
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highme posted:I haven't opened up that box yet, but I'll double check. Since it's been pouring rain the last couple of days I haven't really been able to do anything. So I've been thinking about this and want to clarify. I assumed that you fill from the levers once the brake lines have been installed etc., is this not the case? I did read a few shop manuals yesterday, but apparently focused on installs of components and not fluids because I never saw that. Usually I'll install the brake first to see if I'm okay with the brake line length or if I want to shorten it. At that point, if it's not a pre-bled system or I cut the line, I just bleed with the brake installed rather than remove anything. You could bleed with it off the bike, whatever's easier with your setup. It's not a bad thing to try if you end up still having air in the system after a bleed, since you can make the line more straight up and down, which will help force air bubbles out. Most of the time shift systems will have a barrel adjuster somewhere. The Ultegra rear derailleurs usually have one where the housing goes into the derailleur, if you want to skip the inline adjuster on that one, but personally I'd definitely throw one on the front derailleur line. I can never get those right without one.
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Dec 23, 2020 04:16
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100YrsofAttitude posted:Weird but probably common enough problem, I figure: I live in a humid coastal area, and a lot of the time this is due to the cable having a lot of friction in the housing, and can be solved with some thin lubricant (I use Tri-flow) in the housing. Anywhere that housing starts/stops, just a few drops in and it's usually good to go. My friends in Colorado never seem to run into this, so your mileage may vary by where you live.
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Jan 4, 2021 03:10
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Seedy ROM posted:My intent from here is to grab some cone spanners in 13, 15, and 17mm to use alongside my combo spanners. Does this seem suitable? Your steps and results look pretty good over here. I would try to take the play out. Final result should be slight play in the hub when not on the bike (usually only in one spot or so), because the QR or axle nuts compress the bearings as well when you install the wheel. Which means you should have no play when the wheel is installed. And definitely make sure that the lock nut is tight. 13, 15, and 17 should be all you need unless you get into any thru axle setups.
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Jan 27, 2021 14:04
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kgibson posted:Anything I have missed? If you ride clipless, have you tried replacing your cleats? A buddy of mine redid his bottom bracket three times before trying that, but it was the problem. New BB on the way could also be it. I solve a lot of random clicks/creaks even just by removing the BB and cleaning out/regreasing the shell and the BB when able.
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Feb 16, 2021 03:38
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DaveSauce posted:Brake saga continued: Can confirm that this is not a dick move at all. Given how hard parts are to get right now, anytime someone comes in with the (compatible) part in hand it's a relief.
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May 25, 2021 23:43
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Jazz Marimba posted:i'm considering getting schwalbe marathon tires cuz i'm sick of getting flats, but they have 35 different models on their site...obvi i can skip the e-bike ones, but does anyone have any recs for the other, idk, 31 models? Depends on the riding you're doing. The classic is the Marathon Plus (HS 440). The other plus models have different tread patterns if you need more grip. The regular Marathons (HS 420) are a little thinner but lighter. But we've sent a lot of people out of the shop with the Plus's before long trips and had them come back flatless, so that's my vote.
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Oct 18, 2021 20:46
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 05:53 |
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It looks like both the close ratio and the wide ratio come only with the short cage. The cage length really only affects the derailleur's capacity, which is the difference in your rear cogs plus the difference in your front chainrings. The capacity for both Zees is 25, so if you're a 1x in the front, the cage is fine for your 11-32 cassette. If you have a 2x you'd only be able to have a 4 tooth different in the front, which essentially means you can't use it on a 2x. If you have the close ratio derailleur I'd expect to see the b-limit screw unable to get your derailleur to clear the 32 tooth cog. Normally Shimano's great about putting their model number on their parts somewhere, but it looks like both ratios use the same RD-M640 SS designation. Weird! So even if you do find one, it might not prove anything.
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May 31, 2022 02:06
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