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As promised, from the Exorcism thread, my $3k, 208k latest poor decision. Behold! Purchased it last week off of govdeals.com. Their stuff always carries a premium but it was on my way from my home to my lakehouse and figured I would check it out. Would not bid a dime over $3100 and my bid with a couple of minutes left after a 10 minute look at it in the impound lot won the day at $3,025, saved enough for a valucraft battery which solved a lot, but not all of its ills. The reason I bid on the thing at all was the Carfax showed a prior CPO car with high miles but lots of service records. The glovebox yielded a lot more, including timing chain replacement and over $12K in service records post the CPO mileage.  The car drove the approximate 30 miles from the auction site to my lake house. Stupid, I know. My buddy talked me into not needing a tow. TPMS sensors on and it pestered me about low oil level. More on that later. We made it to my friends and then had to go get a battery as it would not jump off. Car started fine, got to my lake house and then proceeded to be really hard to start due to what I think was bad gas. Finally ran enough HEET and new gas through it and it seems to be okay except for the low oil pressure issue. Having looked over the forums and youtube videos about the 2.0T, I am really worried. I am also 3 hours away. So, I think we will go slow, diagnose the problem and hope its not balance shafts. Only other think is this:  'And maybe this:  Anyone have any idea how to test the resistor before I spend $100+ on something likely to work? The motor is locked up, so I know I need that. I have a PCV diaphragm ready to install. There was a LOT of vacuum at the oiil fill. I need a low pressure oil sensor. I bought one and hooked it up to the oil filter housing which is wrong per my research. Need to rectify that. Then just pray my oil pressure issues are related to those things and not failing filters at the cam bridge and balance shafts. Any input both welcome and encouraged.
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Dec 15, 2022 02:13
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 19:59 |
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oh poo poo, it's an '09 B8 insert Stavvy laugh here literally the car that convinced my dad to go EV
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Dec 15, 2022 02:26
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Ooh boy, this could get spicy.
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Dec 15, 2022 04:40
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This is the best thread.
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Dec 15, 2022 08:39
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EVERYWHERE 
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Are you mad?
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Dec 15, 2022 20:16
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honda whisperer posted:Are you mad? Yes. 
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Dec 15, 2022 21:06
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I really like that wera tool kit, but I think maybe it will be insufficient here... EvellSnoats posted:Anyone have any idea how to test the resistor Is the answer here not just a multimeter?
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Dec 16, 2022 01:41
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honda whisperer posted:Are you mad? You have no idea. Kinda want to quit drinking so much, buying this thing could make it go either way. I bought a 2012 Avant a few months ago that I love.  Knowing it will need timing chain service, etc. and it being otherwise perfect, figured I needed a practice mule. I am hoping for the worst on this piece of poo poo so the karma that is Audi balances out. Of course that might involve buying at least two more sacrificial whores. i travel to TN tomorrow to continue the quest....
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Dec 16, 2022 01:46
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builds character posted:I really like that wera tool kit, but I think maybe it will be insufficient here... Yep, but think I need the pinouts and resistance readings. Will download ErWin tomorrow but not sure that is covered
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Dec 16, 2022 01:50
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Okay I hooked up a mechanical oil pressure Guage to the low pressure switch (new) spot and found 12 psi at idle, 47 psi at 2000 and 60 at 3500 rpm.   My cam code went away, but I still have P164D00 reduced oil pressure switch malfunction Other than the warning to check oil level, it is basically running fine although it seems to not like inclines. Car is still stumbling a bit, but that could be residual bad gas. I checked the diaphragm on the PCV and it is fine, not torn. I put it back in because it looked superior to the Chinese autozone part I purchased. Safety tip, clean the ashtray before getting out in a seized car.  I forgot how stupid tight Audi poo poo is, had to do this to get high pressure oil switch out: 
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Dec 18, 2022 00:55
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Well I put the mechanical gauge back on and drove it a couple of miles. Once the car got up to temp, the oil pressure did dip down to 5 on any sort of incline/decline. Nursed it home and into the garage. Had to let it cool down to get it restarted. Started to pull the pan. Despite some youtube videos to the contrary, looks like I will have to drop the subframe, there are just some bolts I cannot get to (about 3). One torx bolt is also hollowed out, but it is pretty accessible. I don't have my dremel tool here to cut a slot and may try to just hammer in a sacrificial larger bit or a hex bit. There are two bolts in there that are not OE, a 10mm and a hex head bolt. So I am going to order a pan kit with new bolts as well. The oil that came out looks good (it was fresh), nothing frightening in the way of chunks came out at least. So, it clearly has intermittent low oil pressure. I just hope there is not much screwed up as a result of driving it the little bit I did. Besides the everpresent P164d00 reduced oil pressure switch malfunction, the following codes returned: P019100 fuel rail pressure sensor a circuit range/peformance P034100 camshaft pos circuit range/performance P030x00 cyl 3, 4 2 misfire detected P030000 random/multiple cylinder misfire Pretty sure this is going to wind up being the balance shafts, but I'm going to try and be patient with it.
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Dec 18, 2022 20:40
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EvellSnoats posted:I forgot how stupid tight Audi poo poo is, had to do this to get high pressure oil switch out: You'll get good at getting the car in Service Position real quick. Good luck!
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Dec 19, 2022 15:46
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Not good:  So bits of metal flakes that are magnetic. Also a couple of very small pieces of sealant. Filter was not clogged.  And I want to say I read someplace this was the latest version of the oil pump:  So I guess I will start pulling it apart. Will probably stay an extra day up here and see what the cam bridge looks like. Got ErWin downloaded and trying to stay in my happy place. 
EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 20:03 on Dec 19, 2022 |
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Dec 19, 2022 19:57
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Godspeed brave goon
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Dec 19, 2022 22:42
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This is already great. 
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Dec 20, 2022 01:26
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I had the same optimisim with a Saab I had - oil pressure light kept coming on, must be a pressure sensor issue! Also I paid full price and didn't pay attention to the box from the 20/50 oil that was kicking in the back. Oh, not the sensor, probably just pickup! Nope not the pickup. Nope, it was the main bearings and seized on the highway (after driving around for a month). Hopefully you can just get a used long block like me and be done with it for a reasonable price.
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Dec 20, 2022 02:15
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blindjoe posted:I had the same optimisim.... Nothing of the kind. I expect (and deserve) several kicks in the balls. I am already looking and figuring logistics on used engines but I am thinking just a little glitter means maybe I can rebuild this one for close to the same money. (Okay maybe I am a little optimistic). Frankly if I can find a cheaper engine I can rebuild closer to my shop and do the transplant later, I will. Otherwise, this will slow up a bit posting wise, but I promise to see it through and it gives me an excuse to test out the new Harbor Freight coming soon in Murray, KY that is only 20 minutes away from my lake house.
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Dec 20, 2022 03:08
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meatpimp posted:This is the best thread. It's giving me PTSD flashbacks of my E61 535xi. Goonspeed.
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Dec 20, 2022 04:33
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these are the kind of threads that remind me AI is the best subforum on here.
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Dec 20, 2022 06:23
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 oh boy. This should be good. Goonspeed.As soon as I started getting low oil pressure on a car on inclines, I sold it. I put it in the ad and sold it for cheap because I was pretty sure those bearings were about done.
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Dec 21, 2022 02:28
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Did you use chunky or smooth oil OP?
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Dec 21, 2022 02:57
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Warbird posted:Did you use chunky or smooth oil OP? Extra Chunky, but fully synthetic. Coolant is tears from a stripper without a kid.
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Dec 21, 2022 17:43
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Long weekend and I might be out past my tool order. But first, some fuckery: This plastic bag was in the air intake pipe, almost like it was placed there. I'm wondering if the outfit auctioning this thing off was screwing with it to try and make it stumble? It would have been a once in a lifetime shot for it to get picked up on the road and the bag looked almost new. Really weird, but the car is halfway apart now and this likely has nothing to do with its low pressure problems but could be why its pressure at the crankcase was high? Anyway, I did this:  Honestly I was going to make room on one of my stands at home I was stripping an engine on and move my crane up temporarily (this project is at a vacation home), but I think I am going to leave it in. I am waiting for timing tools to take off the lower timing cover. I pulled the PCV unit and the intake cam under there looks okay to me, but that just means no apparent scoring and obviously I have not seen the journals. Once I have timing tools I figure I can pull the cambridge and hope its a plugged filter there. So last night I started cleaning the interior, which really is not bad at all. Only two things, the drivers seat has some splitting going on:  Damage is just that one area, so I am thinking pull the cover and find an upholstery shop? Ebay parts so far are worse looking than this. Suggestions welcome. The headliner needs to come out. According to ErWin, it comes out through the front windshield, which ain't happening so I am kind of looking for a junkyard board to practice on. My prior headliner replacement job was marginal at best and its tough to find anyone to do the job anymore that will do it right, so I guess I am going to take a stab at it. In other good news, I wacked the bottom of the fan motor and unlocked it. Sprayed some lube on it and it turns. Stuck it in the car without hooking it up permanent and it powered up and spun a little. I am going to keep at it with oil and see if it throws any codes. Still have no idea how to test the resistor and ErWin was no help. Would like to save the $300 bucks a cheapie replacement of both would cost, but for now there is no sense in spending that money on new until I figure out what is up with the engine.
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Dec 31, 2022 13:45
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EvellSnoats posted:
That is absolutely a thing people do to try to get auction cars cheaper. It wouldn't be causing your other issues, but it would definitely make it stumble and have zero power.
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Jan 1, 2023 01:12
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Sounds like a good way to gently caress up a turbo.
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Jan 1, 2023 01:17
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Here are some pics:   (All plugs looked like this.) Fortunately, my timing tool kit gets here tomorrow so I can take it up to my lake house and spend some time on it this weekend and see if there is any obvious damage with special attention to the balance shafts which I will want to pull last due to understanding once you pull them, they have to be replaced. Will probably check clearance on the bottom bearings too, so any suggestions on that are welcome. Its been years since I have done that kind of work so don't worry about hurting my feelings.
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Jan 4, 2023 17:31
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Definitely looks like it was maintained, that is CLEAN for the mileage.
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Jan 4, 2023 17:32
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meatpimp posted:Definitely looks like it was maintained, that is CLEAN for the mileage. This - I've had cars with 50k that looked much worse. Someone was extremely religious about oil changes. Are those marks on the cam sprockets supposed to line up with the marks on the chain? If not, I don't really see anything except maybe a lobe looking a little sad (I don't do cams or timing though, beyond replacing a timing belt when I have to). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jan 4, 2023 |
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Jan 4, 2023 20:02
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STR posted:This - I've had cars with 50k that looked much worse. Someone was extremely religious about oil changes. Yeah, I found a bunch of receipts in the glove box going back years and the carfax indicated it was pretty religiously maintained. I'm with you on the lobe but I have no idea either. I changed out the cam and chain on my 1967 C-10 20 years ago and the belt and cam on my 1999 Volvo V70X about 8 years ago. Both ran fine afterwards, but I think that was beginners luck after looking at all the Youtube videos on the subject of the 2.0T. Right now I think the plan is to go ahead and pull the pump and upper oil pan and see what the bottom bearings look like. If all of that is good, I will go ahead and change out the oil pump (I know that isn't likely what is causing low oil pressure, but it is old anyway and I don't want to drop the pan again) and button up the bottom end, crack open the timing cover and start looking at the top end. Anyone with any hints on rolling in bearings with the engine in place, throw them at me. As well as suggestions on how to better go about this partial birth abortion of a project.
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Jan 4, 2023 21:58
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STR posted:Are those marks on the cam sprockets supposed to line up with the marks on the chain? If not, I don't really see anything except maybe a lobe looking a little sad (I don't do cams or timing though, beyond replacing a timing belt when I have to). I think if you are talking about the red "marks" on top of the chain, I think that is just a reflection from the hood, but I will check it out. I was looking for the chain sides to be differently colored but saw nothing on the kind and will look closer this weekend.
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Jan 4, 2023 22:00
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EvellSnoats posted:I think if you are talking about the red "marks" on top of the chain, I think that is just a reflection from the hood, but I will check it out. I was looking for the chain sides to be differently colored but saw nothing on the kind and will look closer this weekend. Those yellow marks on the sprockets line up with the yellow marks on the block, was this you? Points to someone being in there in the past, if not. This was recommended when I did the timing chains on my Golf's 2.5L, to ensure the VVT stuff connected to the sprocket had all their oil passages lined up when you took it off and put it back on.
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Jan 5, 2023 16:45
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NoWake posted:Those yellow marks on the sprockets line up with the yellow marks on the block, was this you? Points to someone being in there in the past, if not. This was recommended when I did the timing chains on my Golf's 2.5L, to ensure the VVT stuff connected to the sprocket had all their oil passages lined up when you took it off and put it back on. Not me, but there were service records for timing chain replacement at 125k.
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Jan 5, 2023 18:53
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Timing was good. Unfortunately, a couple of the T30 torx bolts holding it down low hollowed out on me, so I had to do some violence: So it now sits like this:  I pulled the vacuum motor off as well as the cambridge. The filter that normally disintegrates in the cambridge was gone. I understand they recommended removing that when the car has a timing service. The little filter in the vacuum motor was clean. No signs of metal. Anyone with tips on how to line the vacuum up with the cam to reseat it, let me know. The balance shafts move freely but I am unsure on the timing settings for them, of if they even get timed. There is one different color link on that chain, but it doesn't seem to match to any of the marks on the balance shaft gears. I have some more pics to share tomorrow. I removed the intake cam timing valve. When I was checking to see if the balance shafts were moving by turning the engine, it spit oil about three feet out of the end of the cam shaft where the valve was. Don't know if maybe there was some sort of obstruction there or something? It only did it once. I went ahead and pulled the oil pump and screen. Screen was clean. All of the stuff on the pump seemed to work and it turned pretty cleanly except for the sucking noises I attribute to being a pump. I think I mentioned wanting to check the crankshaft bearings, but to do that you have to remove the upper oil pan which involves pulling the rear main seal which you cannot do with the engine connected to the transmission. Will update tomorrow with my proposed game plan. In the meantime, I detailed the interior:  You would really never know this car had 200K on the clock. EvellSnoats fucked around with this message at 01:55 on Jan 9, 2023 |
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Jan 9, 2023 01:51
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Additional pics showing balance shafts: Intake  Both  Vacuum pump screen:  Link to Video of oil pump: https://i.imgur.com/F0mc9IW.mp4
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Jan 9, 2023 17:05
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This is bringing back nightmares of when I bought a salvage title B5 A4 in college as a daily
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Jan 11, 2023 02:33
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Oh god, all those plastic chain guides I've never seen anything like that before.
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Jan 11, 2023 02:39
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At least they're not on the firewall side on this engine!
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Jan 11, 2023 02:41
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Oh god, all those plastic chain guides I've never seen anything like that before. That's basically everything overhead cam made in the last couple decades. The entire front of the quite well regarded Toyota 5.7 looks pretty much the same, but with twice as many and they're even longer. I bookmarked this for the carnage. Now it looks like this might be a happy story once we're past the last coupe years of deferred maintenance and auction sabotage. Or as happy a story as there can be for a 200k Audi.
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Jan 11, 2023 14:32
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Motronic posted:That's basically everything overhead cam made in the last couple decades. The entire front of the quite well regarded Toyota 5.7 looks pretty much the same, but with twice as many and they're even longer. Ordered some tools and it looks like they might make it before this weekend that I can take as a long one if I get one thing out at work. If not, I will just work through this weekend and head to the lake maybe Tuesday afternoon of next week and spend a little longer. Only problem being parts seem to take longer to get in Buchanan TN vs Oxford, MS. Meantime, I collect old parts cabinets, this is my latest and largest: 
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Jan 12, 2023 02:16
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 19:59 |
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I had a 97 A4 that was a rolling financial liability so I've felt this kind of pain. Excellent thread!
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Jan 12, 2023 02:35
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