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KozmoNaut posted:Only 500hp and 2800nm? That volvo engine in the mack is called the MP10 and is 605hp and 2800nm, in australia matching the euro 5 emissions standards it's 685hp and 3100nm because it doesn't need a DPF. Scania's 16.4 V8 is only Euro 5 emissions rated, the most powerful euro 6 spec is 585hp/2950nm. Even Euro 6 emissions are less strict on NOx and particulate matter than the US's EPA 2007 emissions regulations. The greenies killed all of our fun, and now they're coming for yours. kastein posted:How wide where it has to go between the frame rails? I forget exactly what I have available but it's somewhere in the 28-32" range. It's easily in that range. On the passenger side of the engine is an EGR cooler which you'd obviously be getting rid of that would give you another 6 inches, and on the drivers side are the oil filters that if relocated would free up probably 8 inches. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Good-used-2006-Mack-AC460P-Diesel-Engine-ESN-5K3014-480HP-/310718943994  
Powershift fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Aug 23, 2013 |
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Aug 23, 2013 03:02
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Mooseykins posted:I could send you a conversion, unfortunately it would cost a fortune all-round. Shame you guys didn't get 6-speed MK IV diesels. It does exist but is very, very hard to find. When I lived in DC I knew a station in Alexandria VA that had it and certainly noticed a mileage bump when I filled up with it. It was rated at a higher cetane number than any other fuel around. I can't find any in Austin TX. Nothing would make me happier than to have diesel engines come an option on more vehicles in the US. I doubt ford will bother though because they have sunk so much into the EcoBoost engines.
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Aug 23, 2013 04:00
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Powershift posted:That volvo engine in the mack is called the MP10 and is 605hp and 2800nm, in australia matching the euro 5 emissions standards it's 685hp and 3100nm because it doesn't need a DPF. Scania's 16.4 V8 is only Euro 5 emissions rated, the most powerful euro 6 spec is 585hp/2950nm. Even Euro 6 emissions are less strict on NOx and particulate matter than the US's EPA 2007 emissions regulations. Hmmm... I am rather intrigued. Another thing I need to worry about is steering column and power steering box clearance, all that stuff is strapped onto the truck basically as an afterthought, directly above the driver side frame rail. So clearance on the driver side may be "interesting". Passenger side is easy, I stand on the frame rail next to the engine while reinstalling the turbo, makes it easier to hold it up 
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Aug 23, 2013 14:36
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How bad were the 6.2L diesels used in the older (mid 1980's) military CUCV Chevrolet's? Is it a case of serviceable but not great or more of swap it out first chance you get? Think I remember hearing about them being pretty underpowered but that's about all I remember from looking at them a few years ago. Not even finished with one project and already scheming my next one...
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Aug 23, 2013 16:19
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NitroSpazzz posted:How bad were the 6.2L diesels used in the older (mid 1980's) military CUCV Chevrolet's? Is it a case of serviceable but not great or more of swap it out first chance you get? Think I remember hearing about them being pretty underpowered but that's about all I remember from looking at them a few years ago. They weren't....bad per se. They were incredibly under-powered, and the early 6.2 had issues with cooling flow at the back of the block and caused cracks in the block. The later engines were re-designed to solve it.
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Aug 23, 2013 16:43
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The military spec half tips were 85-115hp. That's fine if it's in a lawnmower but don't expect to be climbing any Hills.
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Aug 23, 2013 19:14
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CommieGIR posted:They weren't....bad per se. They were incredibly under-powered, and the early 6.2 had issues with cooling flow at the back of the block and caused cracks in the block. The later engines were re-designed to solve it. Wasn't every thing from the 80s including the music pretty underpowered? 
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Aug 23, 2013 22:49
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Picked up the new Golf today  
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Aug 27, 2013 04:03
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Does anyone have any experience with the Fiat/Alfa common rail 1.9? My parents may be giving me their facelift 1 156 JTD 1.9JTD (not the JTDm), 5mt. It probably has something close to 100k on it - though I have yet to get the run-down - and knowing them, it will have been to the Alfa dealer annually and then also when it breaks (so regularly then, har har). On the plus side that means it should be current with everything. They're getting rid due to something going catastrophically wrong in the steering (UJ came apart or complete failure of the rack or rack mounts in such a way as to prevent steering  ) that wasn't described to me in ways that make any sense, but nothing to do with the powertrain. It sounds like they're doing the usual thing of spending lots of money on maintenance and repairs and then immediately selling it because it's unreliable.  If I have to do the timing belt I probably won't bother taking it - but other than that is there anything to watch out for with the 1.9 or associated tranny? Worth getting a 100k-ish example? I have a completely functional Impreza GF8, so it's not like I desperately need a car. I love the 156's handling but really don't need a project/money pit.
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Aug 28, 2013 07:15
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100k miles or 100k km? First facelift, that's the 115hp one, right? It's a decent enough engine, but it is very agricultural. If it's been serviced regularly, I wouldn't worry about the mileage. It's pre-DPF, so no issues there. Make sure the EGR is functioning, warm up it and give it the beans on the motorway, see if it runs nicely without bogging down or throwing weird errors. Honestly, the 1.9 JTD is probably going to be the most reliable part of that 156. Be wary of electrical issues and water intrusion beneath the carpets.
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Aug 28, 2013 09:23
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KozmoNaut posted:100k miles or 100k km? First facelift, that's the 115hp one, right? 100,000 miles and it should be the 115 based on the age of the car and my recollection of the interior (it has the updated steering wheel). 100k is no problem for the engine, but my concern is more when do the turbos typically let go? When you say check the EGR is functioning, presumably the EGR will throw a code if it's not working? I think they have had at least one weird electrical issue (no, really?) in the last year which I need to quiz them about. They have also reversed it into several solid objects, but I don't care about rust and dents on the body. Also trying to remember if I've seen a wet floor in there when I've visited them. You would hope with paying the Alfa dealer to service it, they would have sorted out a blocked drain or failing window seal or whatever issue causes the seepage. My parents haven't mentioned any drivability issues, which is a good sign. I am used to agricultural as my wife's car has the 90hp PSA 1.9 common rail HDI. I'm more worried the diesel will destroy the handling. I've only driven the 1.8 and 2.0 TS versions, which have great balance (almost as good as the famous Peugeot 406 ). I can forgive wrong-wheel drive, but only if it handles like a 156, 306, 106 rallye etc. and not like a shitbox Vauxhall.
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Aug 28, 2013 09:50
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Saga posted:100,000 miles and it should be the 115 based on the age of the car and my recollection of the interior (it has the updated steering wheel). 100k is no problem for the engine, but my concern is more when do the turbos typically let go? When you say check the EGR is functioning, presumably the EGR will throw a code if it's not working? Yeah, it'll throw a code if the EGR stops working. As for the life of the turbo, who knows? If fed regularly with good oil, it could last for the entire lifetime of the rest of the car. As long as it doesn't leak oil or make whining noises, it should be OK, just keep up the oil changes and use synthetic. quote:I think they have had at least one weird electrical issue (no, really?) in the last year which I need to quiz them about. They have also reversed it into several solid objects, but I don't care about rust and dents on the body. Also trying to remember if I've seen a wet floor in there when I've visited them. You would hope with paying the Alfa dealer to service it, they would have sorted out a blocked drain or failing window seal or whatever issue causes the seepage. My parents haven't mentioned any drivability issues, which is a good sign. The water intrusion thing is insidious. since it likes to gather underneath the carpeting, where you won't notice it until you remove the carpets and check manually, or the floor rusts through. I would check under the carpet in the footwells, just to be 100% sure. quote:I am used to agricultural as my wife's car has the 90hp PSA 1.9 common rail HDI. I'm more worried the diesel will destroy the handling. I've only driven the 1.8 and 2.0 TS versions, which have great balance (almost as good as the famous Peugeot 406 The 1.9 is heavier and lazier, I don't know how much it affects the handling, though.
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Aug 28, 2013 10:20
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Well it's been 4 weeks so I decided to get some fuel. Did 756 Km on 48.6 litres. I live downtown in a city that has an atrocious downtown traffic grid so that ain't too shabby at all. 6.43L/100Km is a nice change from the ~11L/100Km I was used to with my old car.
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Sep 21, 2013 23:43
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neckbeard posted:Well it's been 4 weeks so I decided to get some fuel. Did 756 Km on 48.6 litres. I live downtown in a city that has an atrocious downtown traffic grid so that ain't too shabby at all. 6.43L/100Km is a nice change from the ~11L/100Km I was used to with my old car. I'm due to fill up today. Should come in under 13 gallons and around 620 miles. I love summer fuel.
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Sep 23, 2013 16:58
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My fuel was leaking out where it wasn't supposed to after doing the hammer mod, so I did two gaskets on my injector pump this weekend. All the guides had me do the top gasket at the same time as the QA gasket, but it didn't really seem necessary when I did it. I also saw a lot of variation in how much stuff I needed to take off. I ended up leaving most of the flexible poo poo connected. I had to take it apart again though because I guess I didn't seat the pin correctly in the hole and the engine just cranked and cranked without starting. I have a Stage 2 Rocketchip and Sprint 520 injectors. The fuel quantity was at like 2.0 and there was a lot of smoke. Now it's at about 5 and the smoke is much more reasonable.
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Sep 24, 2013 05:43
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A friend of my wife's is selling his 09 Jetta tdi and we're thinking pretty hard about buying it. The guy has been meticulous about maintenance since he bought it new, but is there anything in particular I should look for when I check it out?
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Oct 3, 2013 17:50
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Really liking my new Sportwagen thus far. Picked it up last night and had my first real drive today. I took it out to Etrailer to have a receiver installed. There is a nice 3 mile stretch of perfectly flat, perfectly straight, and wonderfully smooth highway in the Chesterfield valley where the car reported a steady 56mpg with cruise control @ 67mph. That's DOUBLE what I normally get from old 240d. Only thing I'm really iffy on at this point is the hill-hold. I keep stalling the drat car and I feel like a moron. Looks like I need a VAG-COM to adjust this. I haven't checked to see if the seatbelt minder will keep chiming at me or not, but I don't like that either if it does, and I'm not hot on the DRLs.
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Oct 3, 2013 18:25
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trouser chili posted:Really liking my new Sportwagen thus far. Picked it up last night and had my first real drive today. I took it out to Etrailer to have a receiver installed. There is a nice 3 mile stretch of perfectly flat, perfectly straight, and wonderfully smooth highway in the Chesterfield valley where the car reported a steady 56mpg with cruise control @ 67mph. That's DOUBLE what I normally get from old 240d. The seatbelt reminder does not continue bugging you. I would like to use VAG-COM to turn it off completely. The hill hold is tough to get use to at first but it comes easier later. Mileage is amazing, I've seen numbers like that on my display with non flat ground. I know my display is off a couple percent though, I think that is also adjustable with VAG-COM.
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Oct 4, 2013 19:00
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trouser chili posted:Really liking my new Sportwagen thus far. Picked it up last night and had my first real drive today. I took it out to Etrailer to have a receiver installed. There is a nice 3 mile stretch of perfectly flat, perfectly straight, and wonderfully smooth highway in the Chesterfield valley where the car reported a steady 56mpg with cruise control @ 67mph. That's DOUBLE what I normally get from old 240d. I'm getting roughly 42mpg tank average in my Golf, but I'm also at 5000+ feet and running 19" tires that are good and sticky. I'm actually going to drop back down to either 15s or 16s with winter tires this year as I think it's going to be a harsh winter the way the weather patterns have been the last few months. Should buy me back a few more miles, which the winter fuel will promptly take back from me. Also, I have a huge gouge in the lip of my wheel from last years snow bullshit.
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Oct 4, 2013 19:46
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I think I must be driving hard because I usually get ~37-38mpg overall. Summer tires and stick wheels. AC though with Texas.
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Oct 5, 2013 00:33
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I do 40 flat on average with like 35/65 highway split. If I'm super nice to the car I get up around 42... 2000 TDI.
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Oct 5, 2013 01:44
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I don't know what you guys are doing... I average 48-52 in my 2012 Golf TDI.
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Oct 7, 2013 00:04
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I think mine is a combination of running the AC almost all the time (Texas), high speed roadways such as the 85mph toll road near me & generally driving it hard. The summer tires put a pretty decent hit on my MPG, around 2-3mpg.
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Oct 7, 2013 00:20
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schmagekie posted:I don't know what you guys are doing... I average 48-52 in my 2012 Golf TDI. I don't commute downhill both ways with a 20kt tailwind? I think my best tank so far is 42.5 mpg.
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Oct 7, 2013 03:08
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schmagekie posted:I don't know what you guys are doing... I average 48-52 in my 2012 Golf TDI. Either you are going by the (incorrect) OBC or you're a saint that commutes on a 55mph highway 100% of the time. http://www.fuelly.com/car/volkswagen/golf/2012 Look at the averages by years: http://www.fuelly.com/car/volkswagen/golf/diesel%20l4 In my case, it's a 50mph limit on surface streets with a fair amount of red lights, a 65mph highway limit with 75mph traffic flow, and Arizona cranked AC. BlackMK4 fucked around with this message at 03:17 on Oct 7, 2013 |
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Oct 7, 2013 03:14
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Yeah I'm just going on the thing the car tells me right now. Hell I've really only got one fillup in it so I've yet to math out the real consumption. Pulling the trailer full of furniture 200 miles netted a reported 37mpg while averaging 65mph.
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Oct 7, 2013 15:54
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I get around 38-39 going to work, and 45-50 going home (according to the MFI) but I do in fact drive uphill going in and downhill going home. Very rarely use air conditioning because I live in a state with 4 seasons  Also, my commute is basically doing 60mph about half way, and sitting in stop and go doing 10-20 the other half. The reason I'm stuck doing 60 is because the same rear end in a top hat bike cop sits in the same spot every loving day 300+ days out of the year so if I go any faster I'll get nabbed.
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Oct 7, 2013 17:15
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trouser chili posted:Yeah I'm just going on the thing the car tells me right now. Hell I've really only got one fillup in it so I've yet to math out the real consumption. Pulling the trailer full of furniture 200 miles netted a reported 37mpg while averaging 65mph. Calculate it out sometime to be sure but I think my Dad said the trip computer thing was decently accurate especially for long interstate cruising. My 2000 Golf averages 48-50 commuting, 49.99 last tank. My commute (20mi) is 60mph highway and country roads with some elevation and two stop lights. If my brother drives it he gets 42-45 (the same I get with a trailer) mostly because he accelerates away from stops faster...makes a huge difference.
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Oct 7, 2013 19:06
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Should I be giving the turbo some cool-down time before shutting the engine off? I've never owned a turbocharged car before but that's something I seem to remember being a thing. I'm also trying to give it a little warm up time but this car doesn't seem to build heat quickly and I'm kinda stuck accelerating out of the valley I live in every morning. Perhaps a block heater? Also I've been reading that VW doesn't recommend any fuel additives, but my experience with diesel fuel in my area indicates some anti-gel is going to be necessary come winter sets in.
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Oct 8, 2013 02:35
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trouser chili posted:Should I be giving the turbo some cool-down time before shutting the engine off? I've never owned a turbocharged car before but that's something I seem to remember being a thing. I'm also trying to give it a little warm up time but this car doesn't seem to build heat quickly and I'm kinda stuck accelerating out of the valley I live in every morning. Perhaps a block heater? No need to "let the car warm up" as it never will just sitting there, even in the summer. Shift at 2.5k-3k until it's warmed and you should be fine. You won't need to let the car idle after driving unless you are driving it hard continually throughout the trip. Even if you do for a bit, a stop light or two and navigating a parking lot should be enough for a stock car. I'm not sure on the additives. Yes VW recommends no additive, I used one in my duramax, haven't used one in the jetta yet. I'm kinda feeling it out to see how other cars react to additives after some miles, I'd rather not be the Guinea pig with a $6k motor.
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Oct 8, 2013 02:54
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trouser chili posted:Should I be giving the turbo some cool-down time before shutting the engine off? I've never owned a turbocharged car before but that's something I seem to remember being a thing. I'm also trying to give it a little warm up time but this car doesn't seem to build heat quickly and I'm kinda stuck accelerating out of the valley I live in every morning. Perhaps a block heater? I live in Denver where it's cold and have never used additives. They start to cut the fuel with kerosene to keep it from gelling, which is why mileage sucks in the winter. As far as cool down, just don't beat the poo poo out of it for the last mile or 2. These cars have super tiny turbos that spool down fast. Just remember, these cars are designed to the lowest common denominator. They have to be able to stand up to idiots who beat the poo poo out of them then just turn it off.
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Oct 8, 2013 16:33
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With modern oils and water cooled CHRAs, not to mention the low operating and cruise EGTs inherent to diesels, I wouldn't even bother with it.
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Oct 8, 2013 17:08
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toyota recommend waiting for a minute or so before shutting down after pulling up if youve been towing a trailer or pulled straight off the freeway.
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Oct 8, 2013 21:05
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trouser chili posted:Really liking my new Sportwagen thus far. Picked it up last night and had my first real drive today. I took it out to Etrailer to have a receiver installed. There is a nice 3 mile stretch of perfectly flat, perfectly straight, and wonderfully smooth highway in the Chesterfield valley where the car reported a steady 56mpg with cruise control @ 67mph. That's DOUBLE what I normally get from old 240d. I'm glad I am not the only one that gets tripped up by the hill hold, i had not driven a manual in two years and thought I really lost it. Picked up a 2014 JSW TDI six speed and love it so far, got just under 40mpg on the second tank.
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Oct 9, 2013 01:43
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DJ Commie posted:With modern oils and water cooled CHRAs, not to mention the low operating and cruise EGTs inherent to diesels, I wouldn't even bother with it. Yeah, most of the TDI turbos will not need a cooldown time like a truck turbocharger, just let the engine sit for maybe 5 seconds after parking, and thats it. Its idled and probably at a decently cool temperature.
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Oct 9, 2013 01:48
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I think part of the reason that newer turbos need less cool-down time is that newer oils hold up to high temperatures better - old oils would turn into nasty carbon poo poo if flow stopped while they were inside a hot turbo. The two main reasons to add things to your fuel are gelling and lubricity. Gelling is obviously just a cold climate thing, but lubricity affects everyone. The reason that High Pressure Fuel Pumps die when run on gasoline is the lack of lubricity, and the HPFPs on the earlier 2.0L TDI's are known for dying anyway. One of the best things to add for lubricity is ordinary biodiesel - like even a percent or two. I think newer TDI's allow up to 5% biodiesel, so keep that in mind.
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Oct 9, 2013 03:01
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Opensourcepirate posted:I think part of the reason that newer turbos need less cool-down time is that newer oils hold up to high temperatures better - old oils would turn into nasty carbon poo poo if flow stopped while they were inside a hot turbo. Two stroke oil works as well. I've used it before, and its fairly cheap.
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Oct 9, 2013 03:10
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Kinda worried about two-stroke oil and the DPF. Not really interested in doing a DPF delete this early in the ownership experience. I've got mixed feelings on the whole DPF thing, on one hand I think it's really cool the inside of the exhaust tips is perfectly clean, and if that's better for meerkats in Zimbabwe or whatever I think that's great too. On the other it's really kinda sucky the drag it puts on fuel mileage (and it keeps getting worse and worse as it gets filled with ash) and that it must be replaced at some point at pretty heavy expense. On the upside, it's my understanding that EGR sniffs from the exhaust AFTER the DPF, so no more coked up intakes.
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Oct 9, 2013 12:11
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I haven't been able to find anything even vaguely reputable looking that says anything other than two-stroke oil being very bad news for the DPF. The lubricity study that was linked somewhere on the TDIclub forums seemed to indicate that a bit of biodiesel was as good as anything else for lubricity, though it doesn't help at all with gelling or keeping the grunge from growing. The hill holder on my 2012 Golf still trips me up occasionally but hasn't annoyed me enough to kill it yet. I've had relatively good luck using as little pressure as possible on the brake pedal when I put the clutch in, then releasing the brake a moment or two before I'm actually ready to go. It releases quite gently and with a little practice you can hit the friction point on the clutch right as the brakes start to release avoiding that embarrassing stall/lurch. A contributing factor to this is that apparently the ECU kills the engine if you drop below 800 RPM, I'm haven't been able to verify that but it seems plausible.
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Oct 9, 2013 16:36
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That would absolutely drive me insane; it's not even hard to hill-start by feathering the clutch and brake pedals. I'm glad my dd isn't full of nannies like that
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Oct 9, 2013 19:30
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