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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:What's the size when it's bored 1 over? So it reaches nominal displacement when it's been run-in 
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Dec 22, 2012 05:21
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PYF highway junctions from hell! Spaghetti junction in my home town. Multiple areas where inbound and outbound cars have to cross past eachother (weaving I think it's called), the speed limit goes from 100km/h to 80 for no discernible reason, the exits aren't organised L-R in order of nearness, and the northern exit leads onto a clusterfuck of a bridge. Hooray! edit for wiki description: A multilevel structure (three traffic levels crossing above each other in several locations), it has been described as a "fiendishly complicated, multi-layered puzzle of concrete, steel and asphalt". Carrying around 200,000 vehicles a day, it is one of the busiest stretches of road in New Zealand.
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Dec 26, 2012 20:45
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Rev. Dr. Moses P. Lester posted:Here's the toughest one from my area. Takes years of practice to navigate it confidently! Oh man, those ramps!
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Dec 27, 2012 06:10
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I didn't know the states got bandit 400's. They're a pretty good bike, 500 would be a massive coup here. What's the mileage?
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Dec 29, 2012 03:37
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You'll find most of the parts correspond to other suzuki bikes of that era, brakes, switchgear etc should prove to be no problem. Avoid crashing badly and you'll never have to find out  With that kind of mileage on a relatively low-displacement bike I would look at checking the valve clearances. Can't think of anything else major, the small bandits tend to mimic their larger cousins for simplicity and reliability.
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Dec 29, 2012 04:18
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Jose Pointero posted:Glad to hear that, thanks for the info That bike should have valve clearances which are 'adjusted' by means of shims of various thicknesses which sit between the camshaft lobes and bucket tappets, as opposed to the traditional rocker-arm-screw adjustment like on a car. A lot of people say they've 'done the clearances' when in reality they've simply checked them and decided it was close enough, as actually changing the clearances involves doing some decimal point arithmetic and actually buying the right thickness shims and slipping them in, which depending on the design of the head can get quite pretty involved. In all likelyhood you shouldn't have a problem, if you can't hear the valves tapping when it's running they're probably fine, just something to keep in mind. If you want to do it yourself, work your way up to it by doing things like spark plugs etc first. edit: at the end of the day, it is a cheap first bike and pretty much just a learning tool. If you have any interest in working on your own bike (you will, trust me), it's better to launch in and gently caress it up with a cheap beater than a shiny new R6 or what-have-you, especially if the bike isn't your daily transport. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 04:50 on Dec 29, 2012 |
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Dec 29, 2012 04:44
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Mcqueen posted:the 400 is an awesome bike and you got a good deal imo. take a vid of it revving to redline Agreed! Hollow out the can, can't hurt
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Dec 29, 2012 05:04
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Retarded Pimp posted:Edit Mechanically I come from an automotive background so I wasn't aware of this, cars always get louder with time so I apologise for giving misleading advice. My first bike was a GSX-R250 (they exist!) which revved to 18,000rpm. I took a sparkplug out and the thread came with it; my greatest feat was helicoiling the plug thread without taking the head off, the plug hole was about 8mm across. Fun times.
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Dec 30, 2012 10:14
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Also because literbike power and gearing aren't as impressive without fairings to punch through air resistance. I'd sell my left one for a b-king though 
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Jan 1, 2013 07:04
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I found my hornet was limited by my ability to stay on the bike and not wind resistance, above 220km/h I just couldn't hold on to the bars or brace my feet against the pegs enough. Maybe that makes me a giant girly girl, I dunno.
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Jan 1, 2013 07:47
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This is directly related to how half-assed your conversion is and how little gear you're wearing.
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Jan 14, 2013 06:53
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2ndclasscitizen posted:A 'Busa is going to neither cover any mistakes, nor provide any forgiveness. As for LAMS bikes, CBR125, CBR250R (either the old 4cyl or new single), Ninja 250 and 300, Aprilia RS125 (2T or 4T), CFMoto V-Night or Leader 150s, YZF125 and R15, and so on. There are shitloads of choices. Also the LAMS legal hyosung gt650 or sv650 or er6-n. All of which are (even the hyosung, now) very reliable, moderately fun bikes. The two V-twins have the option of unlocking full power down the line, too.
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Jan 17, 2013 04:22
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Z3n posted:A big part of the confidence that people talk about when they get on a non-budget bike is just because the spring rates are slightly more sane. I have no idea why all the stock budget bikes come with such insanely soft front springs. I meant to reply to this earlier. The reason is to make them feel budget; it's the same reason the lower specs of a given car model come with drums. It would be cheaper to have the same rear brake setup on all specs from a production point of view, but if both cars had equal brakes there would be less to distinguish the next spec up, less to make it seem more 'premium'. Frame geometry is generally similar across road bikes and when you're trying to justify your CBR600 costing more than your hornet 600 or whatever, you can only really distinguish them by power, brakes & handling, and more recently techy poo poo like injection etc. The handling is only really in the actual suspension because that stuff is cheap and easy to chop and change production-wise. They feel budget because they're meant to so that people want the next bike up. Simple. As a side note, aren't all of aprilia's bikes equipped with USD forks and radial calipers standard? Even the measly 125 and 250's? They get away with it because they're a 'premium' brand and don't need the type of cost distinctions between models the way the sprawling, overlapping model lines of the japanese brands do. Not very articulate but you get the idea.
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Jan 18, 2013 07:15
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Z3n posted:Well the suspension being cheap damping rod stuff I get. What I dont get is why the stock SV is sprung for a rider who weighs 80 pounds on the front. It shouldn't be significantly more expensive to at least match the rear shock, which is appropriate for a 120 pound rider, but stock, setting the bike for an 80 pound rider? Crazy. You cant even buy springs from most companies that are as soft as the stock front springs. Cost-cutting is not the objective of fitting damping rod suspension; it would be cheaper to have the same forks on everything rather than give the sv damping rods and every decent bike cartridge forks. The point of it is to MAKE IT FEEL CHEAP. The soft springs are also there for that reason. If the bike feels cheap and crap, people will aspire to something better. It also justifies the added expense of a bike which, if it had the same suspension, wouldn't have enough to offer over the sv to make people want to upgrade. If it handled brilliantly, which I'm told SV's with proper suspension do, there would be less desire to upgrade to a bandit 650 or whatever bike suzuki want you to buy which is up the model scale from there, because owners would have less to criticize about their bike. Keeping in mind the majority of buyers don't fiddle with their suspension or get gsx-r forks or what have you.
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Jan 18, 2013 20:37
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They made the sv1000 which had about 110hp, proper suspension and brakes and was a great bike. Noone bought it and they stopped making it.
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Jan 18, 2013 21:00
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epalm posted:Where does the gladius fit in? Doesn't it have the same motor as the SV? Direct successor to the naked SV, although the half-faired model continues to be sold in a few places, here in NZ included. I'd like to ride a gladius to see if they fixed the problems with the SV. I doubt it.
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Jan 18, 2013 21:43
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In NZ you can get a brand new GN125 for just under NZ$2000. Or a GN250 for slightly more than that. Why anyone would want to is beyond me.
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Jan 20, 2013 00:30
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Pubic Lair posted:
What's with the red on the tank? It looks like jpeg artifacting yet the rest of the picture is fine. Is it an unintended camera effect or something?
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Jan 20, 2013 09:58
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I think MY FIANCEE has ruined bike rides for me. When I first got a bike she didn't approve and thought it was terrible, which was fine by me. I would routinely just go out for a ride and have fun. As time went on she became more and more interested and we'd go on rides with her riding pillion, which is great and all but not exactly fun. Nonetheless I would keep going on rides. Keep in mind I ride my bike every day to work, even now. I only have one other friend who rides bikes and he is a complete lunatic with a literbike, riding with him makes me nervous. Eventually she got her own bike, it was slow and crap but she loved it and we would go on rides together, which was magical even though I had to keep at her pace. After about half a year of owning it, circumstances forced her to sell it and buy a car. It has now been a year since she had a bike, she badly wants one again but she hasn't got the money to buy one. I can't go on rides on my own anymore because I find them too boring without her. It's a sunny day here and the roads are clear and I just can't be bothered because I'll be on my own. 
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Jan 27, 2013 23:26
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Sagebrush posted:Yeah this is a pretty obvious solution here. She has experience, and presumably already has all the gear and stuff too, so the only outlay is the actual cost of the motorcycle. Luckily, smallish motorcycles are cheap, so buy her one yourself! I recommend a CB350. Over here they aren't really, and I'm broke. She'll just have to wait unfortunately.
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Jan 27, 2013 23:51
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Doublepost. Just went for a ride to burn off the last of my petrol before I get paid; turns out V-twins really do drink when you're giving them poo poo. Also turns out that dealing with merciless beatings isn't the SV's strong suit; I cooked the brakes and the front end does some terrifying things when you start reaching the limits of grip. Was pretty frustrating really, currently regretting selling the hornet. Still a good ride though. Replacing brake fluid tomorrow! Hooray!
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Jan 28, 2013 00:56
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JP Money posted:You managed that on the street? You must have some pretty intense roads to cook the brakes off (or really lovely fluid or something). Same for the tires. The road I was on is basically a series of 400m straights connected by corners marked 45km/h. Also i doubt the fluid has ever been replaced on this bike. I find the SV to have really unsettling handling and grip, I don't know if it's just my bike (totally standard K3) or what. The tyres aren't particularly bad.
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Jan 28, 2013 01:22
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nsaP posted:Yeah...weren't you just asking for advice on how to get more comfortable leaning into the corners there, Rossi? Yes, I was, because I can't seem to corner the SV without the front being all over the place and it feels really unstable. I don't know if it's the bike or not because I didn't have this problem anywhere near as badly on my hornet. No need to get snarky.
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Jan 28, 2013 01:24
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nsaP posted:Sounds like something isn't right with that bike on both fronts...what do you mean by "cooked brakes"? You have to be riding pretty hard to overheat them on the street... They're inconsistent. Some of them you can do well over double, others you can barely do at 150%. Just depends on how the half-drunk engineer was feeling because the road surface varies WILDLY and the markers don't take that into account. I'm pretty sure I've just hosed the fluid, by the time I was riding home the lever wouldn't bite immediately and coming to a complete stop from 100km/h required more brake pressure than normal. I can't vouch for whatever pads are in the bike so it could very well be poo poo brakes. As for the bike, I've found that when I finish braking and go to enter the corner, if I do anything remotely untoward or un-smooth like hit a bump in the road or have to adjust my line for whatever reason, the front turns really vague and starts to sort of wobble, it's hard to explain. edit: to the person above: I went from an 02 hornet 919 to an 03 sv650n, mileages similar. The suspension on the hornet was MILES ahead, as were the brakes and the whole bike in general. I've been riding for 3 years and the SV is the first bike I've ridden that feels like it's holding me back, all the others have felt like I could go faster if I were a better rider. The SV feels like the engine power is disproportionate compared to the suspension and brakes. Slavvy fucked around with this message at 01:43 on Jan 28, 2013 |
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Jan 28, 2013 01:40
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Z3n posted:That lovely feeling you get is the terrible stock front suspension bottoming out. The front end is sprung for an 80 pound rider, stock, and the front fork oil is essentially water after 3k or so. I promise that if it's on the stock fork oil and springs you are bottoming the poo poo out of the suspension. I cant ride a stock sv with a reasonable amount of mileage quickly at all because the suspension is so poo poo. Fix the suspension, either with springs, fresh fork oil, or with a front end swap. Yeah I intend to switch to 20w fork oil asap. If I could afford a fancy fork swap I'd just buy a better bike. How would I go about buying springs appropriate for my weight and where? Keeping in mind I'm in nz.
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Jan 28, 2013 06:31
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Z3n posted:You can use racetechs online calculator to figure out the spring rate and then contact your local shop and see what options you have in that spring rate. Or just contact them and see if they know what's up. Any local race shops? Not that I'm aware of, that sort of thing is pretty thin on the ground here. Everyone seems to be an at-home spannerer who gets his poo poo online; I'm not aware of any place that sells legit performance stuff for bikes that isn't just mufflers and tat.
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Jan 28, 2013 08:33
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Nerobro posted:No. There is absolutely nothing more rewarding on a motorcycle than making the handling better. It's something you can use all the time. and is something that is important for everyone to understand how to do, or at least have an idea of what to do. The SV is a great platform to learn on, as it uses suxuki parts bin bits, and you can easily take it from damper rod cheapbike specs to 12,000 bike bits with only a few hundred dollars and some dirty fingers. You will have something that will handle better than anything you can get off the shelf. I'm not unfamiliar with bikes that handle well and bikes with adjustable suspension. I've been riding for just over 3 years, I'm on the SV because of circumstance, not to learn. I'm leaning toward just replacing it but I won't be able to for the next year or more, so I'll probably have to shell out a little bit of coin to make it ride better.
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Jan 29, 2013 04:24
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Yeah, fundamentally the weight distribution and geometry of an SV (or any commuter/starter bike) are always going to put it at a disadvantage to a bike built to be sporty from the off. Yesterday coming home I went to change up a gear while in the middle of a left hand turn. When I moved my toe from the peg to under the gear selector it got partly jammed between the ground and the gear lever. I wear boots so no big deal, but it was somewhat surprising because I wasn't going very fast or leaning over particularly far (cold engine cold tyres); I hope this demonstrates that I don't roll around bolt-upright stabbing at the controls randomly and that my problems with this bike are legitimate and not just a case of growing a pair.
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Jan 29, 2013 23:05
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JP Money posted:I don't think that illustrates your point. Or illustrates anything really? If your boot is catching on the ground you should check that you're keeping your feet on the pegs correctly. The ball of your foot should be on the pegs during cornering. Alternatively, get your shifting done either before the turn or as you're standing the bike up during the last portion of the turn. My point was that I am, in fact, leaning the bike over when I ride. I had to change up mid-corner because I didn't feel like redlining a cold engine in first gear.
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Jan 29, 2013 23:11
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Safety Dance posted:If you're leaned over, changing gears can unsettle the rear end. Might have been wiser to shift pre-corner in that case. Normally I would but 'pre-corner' in this case was about 15km/h and I was in first gear. Ditto for unsettling the bike, I was going pretty slowly. ^^^^there is no suspension setup on an sv, have you ever actually ridden one of these things? It is dirt basic.
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Jan 29, 2013 23:20
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JP Money posted:Super popular track bike once you swap in emulators / springs and put a zx shock on there. Those people tracking them are definitely riding faster than Slavvy. Yes, super popular track bike with all of the crippling deficiencies replaced by aftermarket parts. I've read a bunch of motorbike books and my country requires 3 practical tests to get a full bike license. goddamnedtwisto posted:Erm, yeah, you're actually agreeing with my point, that the SV is fundamentally not a sporty bike. The amount of lean you can get before something hits the ground is a small, but pretty important, part of what defines a bike as sporty or not. If nothing else it's yet another component you have to replace (with sexy, sexy rearsets) to make the bike handle well - grounding out mid-corner looks cool but completely fucks your line. I wasn't arguing with you if that's the impression you got from me quoting you sorry. I agree completely. The unfortunate fact is that I'm stuck riding this thing every single day to work and back. Every day I try to ride better than the day before and recently I've struck a wall where the bike just feels out of it's depth. Which is fine, I can ride slowly, it's just disappointing after being led to believe that the SV was some kind of magical unicorn. Turns out it's just a great engine mated to an extremely average (but very practical) bike.
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Jan 30, 2013 00:16
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Z3n posted:What the hell corner are you going through at 9MPH that is causing you to lean over far enough to drag toes, even with lovely body positioning? I think that even busting a u-turn it's difficult for me to ground out the pegs at sub 10mph. Left hand out of a roundabout, I don't believe my body positioning was that bad but who knows. Maybe the speed was faster than that, all I know was that I was in first and approaching 6k; I avoid revving it past 5k when it's cold. JP Money posted:You do know that poo poo is cheap right? That's probably what I'll end up doing, although currently even that is too expensive for me. I'm more afraid of getting the wrong parts as I don't know how trustworthy the online spring/valving calculator thingies are.
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Jan 30, 2013 01:10
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It has pretty decent brakes for the time. What happens to your arms/chest if it backfires I wonder?
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Jan 31, 2013 06:08
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How does this explain tight spots and sprocket tooth wear? On a really flogged chain and sprockets, the sprocket teeth look curved like shark teeth. The chain also has more or less slack depending on how you rotate the wheel, implying the sprockets are no longer perfectly circular or parts of the chain are more worn than others. Not to mention, riding around with a chain that isn't lubed feels, like someone pointed out earlier, like arse. On a fairly worn sprocket the teeth sort of 'grab' the chain on the return loop and it feels and sounds terrible. Doesn't happen if everything is lubed. So it's pretty safe to say that you lube chains because metal parts that grind against eachother thousands of times every time you ride, while transmitting X horsepower, tend to work better when they have lubrication.
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Feb 5, 2013 11:36
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LarryCsonka posted:This is mine: How do you keep your bike so clean and spotless? I ride mine for one day and every nook and cranny in the engine is filthy. Every bike I've owned was like this.
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Feb 13, 2013 06:43
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Linedance posted:you live in the UK, where diesel (and therefor soot) is king. Just the dust kicked up by cars on a dry day will make your bike filthy, to say nothing of road spray. I don't live in the UK, I live in NZ which has mostly petrol cars and is generally pretty clean-green. It just seems to get covered in random dirt and grime even though I don't live anywhere near any gravel roads or dirt tracks or rural areas.
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Feb 13, 2013 10:57
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Does anyone do sticky T or U-rated tyres any more? I remember Bridgestone BT96 (might be BT94, I'm old) were the absolute poo poo on my RS125, they were IIRC designed for the Japanese 400s and were basically cut racing slicks that anything with more power would have torn to shreds, but on something light and slightly slower they gave you handling like something out of Tron. They still make them, I had a pair on my VFR400 about 1 year ago.
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Feb 14, 2013 23:38
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goddamnedtwisto posted:Man, you need to get a better job/boss. I took two of my staff on a two hour lunch break today because they're both interested in buying bikes and there's a couple of dealers in (extended) walking distance from the office. One of them's getting an NC700 though, I can't help but feel I've failed somehow :/ Nah, it's more of an actual bike than a scooter. If it helps, think of it as a gateway drug. Eventually he'll decide he wants something faster/better/nicer.
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Feb 16, 2013 02:16
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NitroSpazzz posted:Any of you Australia or Japan guys have input on the Suzuki GSX250F/Across from the 90's? Guy at work is selling his cheap and other than a carb cleaning and tires it looks like it could be an odd little bike to add to the collection. I had a GSX-R250 with the exact same engine. The carbs are a nightmare to get right and it revs at 10k at 100km/h. Other than that it was a fairly normal small bike. Be prepared for the slightest fault with a coil, lead, plug, carb etc leading to it running like absolute poo poo. They are ridiculously sensitive to the slightest changes. You also may or may not have difficulty finding decent tyres because some of them have strange wheel sizes, I'm not sure about the across. You also don't have to rev it THAT high to get it to take off, I routinely blew away ninja 250's and hyosung 250's (when it was running right). The performance isn't even close, it's more akin to a slow 400 twin power-wise.
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Feb 20, 2013 19:28
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| # ¿ Apr 28, 2024 08:10 |
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Sagebrush posted:Well, one major way that it's wrong is that you could be getting a 250cc inline 4 that revs to 20,000 RPM instead. I love coming up behind guys lane-splitting on these. -mraaaaaaaWOOOOOAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHTWAAAAAAAAAAAAHTWAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHT-*is doing 60km/h. One of them tried to race me on an empty stretch of motorway when I had a 919; he changed gear three times while I rolled half throttle in fourth. Sounded awesome with a hollowed out can though.
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Feb 20, 2013 22:12
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