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Proposed Budget: $40,000 - $50,0000 New or Used: Prefer new, but would consider CPO if it's the right car. Body Style: Prefer coupe, but a sedan is tolerable; no hatchbacks. How will you be using the car?: 15-mile commute to work through the heart of Boston in some of the worst traffic imaginable. Highway/winding road trips on the weekends. Track a few times a year. Luxury stuff comes second to performance, but I don't want an interior that looks like it was ripped out of a base model Civic. What aspects are most important to you? I want a manual gearbox, or a really good "automatic with sport mode/paddle shifters". Prefer Japanese/German styling. I don't need a lot of trunk room or storage space. I've been researching a bunch of cars thus far (purchase will probably be in May or June): 135, 328, 335, A4, S4, WRX STi, Lancer Evolution MR, etc. but I find things that I don't like about every single car and I need to figure out the best fit for me without going to 20 dealerships and driving every car under the sun. I really, really, really want an M3 more than any human being should want a piece of metal, but it's a poor financial decision. I can afford it, but if I were to lose my job for too long, it would be tough to keep making that $800 payment. I can comfortably afford payments up to $700, and I'm probably going to put 10 down, but I can swing more. Thanks for any help/advice and maybe I'll discover some cars I haven't been researching.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 01:36 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:21 |
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Used M3.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 01:45 |
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A5/S5?
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 01:48 |
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nm posted:I hope it is quite a bit cheaper than a similar Prius, because they're not as good. Honda also has had some battery issues with their hybrids (unlike Toyota). I'd have a hard time justifying it over say a 2009 Prius. Those are good points, thanks. I test drove it today and it felt very stiff, it drove a lot like my Mom's CRV. You really seemed to feel every bump. The back seat was also very cramped. I'll look more towards a 2009ish Prius. Edit: There does seem to be about a $3000 difference in price between the two though. That is what made the Insight attractive, newer with all the features, for less money. marie_eh fucked around with this message at 02:00 on Mar 3, 2013 |
# ? Mar 3, 2013 01:57 |
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I need some help making a future bad decision. Current car is a 2012 Mazda2 that I financed with my Credit Union. Buying it went swimmingly, but I'm not sure what to do when I decide to flip it for something way more impractical. I take it that if I sell it to either a dealership or private party, the bank will issue the title after the money clears, right? Of course I'd be on the hook if there's a difference between the sale amount and loan remainder.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 02:10 |
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Protokoll posted:Proposed Budget: $40,000 - $50,0000 Well this thing exists http://www.autoblog.com/2010/01/23/officially-official-2011-bmw-335is-w-video/ It sounds like you're best off doing a 3 year lease, and seeing how you feel about the car after the fact. Plus it's the final year of a sorta-special edition, for extra points at your local BMW meetup. Throatwarbler fucked around with this message at 02:27 on Mar 3, 2013 |
# ? Mar 3, 2013 02:23 |
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Oh, 2014 Corvette.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 02:44 |
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Throatwarbler posted:Well this thing exists I like the 335is. I could probably get it out the door the way I want for 55. I can get a new M3 for 65. For 10, I would almost just want to get the M3.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 03:25 |
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Protokoll posted:I like the 335is. I could probably get it out the door the way I want for 55. I can get a new M3 for 65. For 10, I would almost just want to get the M3. But what kind of lease deals do you get for the M3? BMWs website shows nothing for me, and I don't think BMW typically does good lease deals for M-cars (could be wrong) but at this point in the final model year it seems unlikely. Are they even still making new M3 coupes?
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 03:35 |
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Throatwarbler posted:But what kind of lease deals do you get for the M3? BMWs website shows nothing for me, and I don't think BMW typically does good lease deals for M-cars (could be wrong) but at this point in the final model year it seems unlikely. Are they even still making new M3 coupes? Not really looking to lease. The 335is is actually looking like it might be the way to go. I got the loan tuned to the payment I want, I just need to make sure that this is the right $55,000 car. Protokoll fucked around with this message at 03:53 on Mar 3, 2013 |
# ? Mar 3, 2013 03:48 |
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Phone posted:I need some help making a future bad decision. You can, I believe, do the whole transaction at your bank, so the seller gets... something... as soon as the money is handed over. Then the title comes in the mail a few weeks later. There is, in my opinion, no good way to sell a car yourself that's worth $10k+. There are (sadly) so few people with $10k in cash, and while there *are* options to arrange for financing through a private party, they are for nerds who troll the "AI meets BFC" thread, not for people who buy cars off craigslist. So your option is basically trade it in or sell it to CarMax, and either of those will be well versed in how to get the title from the bank.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 04:12 |
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It's not hard to sell a car with a lien on it private party at all. If the buyer will be financing and already has it lined up (as they should), just go do the deal at your bank that holds the title. They'll take care of everything. Just hope you aren't upside down on your loan or else you'll owe cash out of your own pocket plus the sale price to buy out the loan and receive the title. Really it is a good idea to do any large private party transaction at the bank regardless. Literally taking out $8000 in cash (or whatever) to go buy a car from some stranger on craigslist isn't really that great of an idea. Guinness fucked around with this message at 04:36 on Mar 3, 2013 |
# ? Mar 3, 2013 04:33 |
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Phone posted:I need some help making a future bad decision. Yeah, if you have your loan with a local bank you'll want to meet up with the buyer at the bank so that you can take their payment, plus any extra needed to pay off the loan, and settle the loan right there so that the buyer can at least start the process of getting the title.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 04:48 |
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Proposed Budget: ~$20 although willing to go a bit higher for a good reason New or Used: New Body Style: 4 door compact to midsize sedan / hatch How will you be using the car?: a bit more than normal driving, 30 mile round trip commute that's mostly highway, I do tend to drive a lot though Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?: Not really. Would like keyless entry. Nav / Radio kind of don't matter as I tend to use my phone for that; so long as I can connect an Android based phone using either aux/bluetooth I'm OK although if I can get something that'd be cool to What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability and comfort. Automatic trans (yes I know). I'm a bigger guy, 6'1", 260 so really small / low power probably aren't a good idea. I've owned two cars my entire life: a 90 Bonneville and an 03 Civic. I had bought the Civic with the intention of paying it off and then buying another used car so both my fiancee and I could have decent vehicles. However since my fiancee is now my ex-fiancee and the Civic has reached the point that things are probably going to start going wrong I've decided the hell with it; I want something new I won't have to worry about for a long time. I have no brand loyalty at all nor am I too concerned with the perception my car I've come up with a few ideas already, these should give you a sense of the kind of car I'm looking for: 1. Dodge Dart Pros - I like the styling and interior; I live in Toledo, home of the Wrangler / Cherokee assembly plant, so Chrysler vehicles usually have good incentives going on plus my uncle says he can get me employee pricing Cons - Small Chrysler car which haven't exactly been good lately; first year model so you know they haven't found all the problems yet 2. Ford Focus Pros - Again I like the way this car looks and what Ford has done with the interior, Ford has seemingly come to grips with quality. Cons - A bit pricier than most things I've seen. 3. Hyundai Elantra Pros - Relatively cheap; again looks and feels nice inside and out. Cons - Not totally sold on Hyundai's reliability 4. Honda Civic Pros - Reliability(?) although my current Civic kind of puts that to the test. Usually good deals around Cons - The newer models just seem a bit crappy compared to earlier lines. Edit - I have to admit to really liking the Dart; it seems like the best combination of price and features available. However I'm not married to the idea of owning one and can definitely be talked out of it. iamnotcreative fucked around with this message at 17:22 on Mar 3, 2013 |
# ? Mar 3, 2013 17:11 |
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Phone posted:Oh, 2014 Corvette. If he's looking to commute in Boston in a Vette, he'll need to budget a couple thousand dollars for snow tires.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 17:23 |
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What do people think of the 2013 Chevy Sonic? Seems like a decently priced reliable car to me.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 18:40 |
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Excelsiortothemax posted:What do people think of the 2013 Chevy Sonic? Seems like a decently priced reliable car to me. I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic Hatch LT, 1.4L Turbo, 6MT. I love it. 13,000 miles and nary an errant squeak. I drove just about everything else in the class (Fit, Mazda2, Fiesta, Accent and Versa), and the Sonic was the best compromise for fun, interior room, and ride comfort.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 19:01 |
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iamnotcreative posted:Proposed Budget: ~$20 although willing to go a bit higher for a good reason You should also check out the Chevy Cruze, Mazda 3 and Toyota Prius. The Cruze is Chevrolet's entry in this market segment and it's a very solid product. It has a slightly more comfortable ride than most in the segment and being based on the same platform as the Volt it has (comparatively) huge interior space, especially in the trunk (since they can delete the Volt's batteries). The 3 is a really fun car which also gets good fuel economy with the Skyactiv engine, with the drawback that the interior isn't especially great (particularly the stock radio which is about as unintuitive as I have seen in a modern car). The Prius is probably the most reliable vehicle you can buy right now and is also the fuel economy champ, though it's definitely a "driving appliance" and also at the upper end of your price range. Excelsiortothemax posted:What do people think of the 2013 Chevy Sonic? Seems like a decently priced reliable car to me. Zuph posted:I have a 2012 Chevy Sonic Hatch LT, 1.4L Turbo, 6MT. I love it. 13,000 miles and nary an errant squeak. I drove just about everything else in the class (Fit, Mazda2, Fiesta, Accent and Versa), and the Sonic was the best compromise for fun, interior room, and ride comfort. I also have a 2012 Sonic LT 1.4L Turbo 6MT (though in the Sedan instead of the Hatch) and (at 5k miles) this is pretty much also my experience. I bought it to be a solid commuter car I could keep for a long time and get good fuel economy and so far it's living up to that. On my 15 mile (each way) highway commute (with stoplights along 1/3rd of it) I have never gotten below 30 MPG and regularly get 32-36 MPG, and that's winter driving on winter-blend E10 gas (though my driving style is definitely more conservative and fuel economy-conscious than average).
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 20:30 |
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iamnotcreative posted:1. Dodge Dart I think you're correct with the pros and cons of each--though Hyundai reliability seems statistically sound--and among those four it's largely a matter of pricing and taste. Personally I couldn't stand the Civic, but it's a respectable car. Consensus here is that you should check out the Sonic and Mazda 3, but if you've already eliminated them from your options that's fine.
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# ? Mar 3, 2013 20:51 |
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I've been reading up on this thread, and with all the talk about used cars being at a bit of a premium these days I'm at a bit of a loss as to what to do regarding my current situation. My wife and I are looking to buy a Honda Odyssey (EX trim, due to the extra seat), and so far we've always just bought cars with cash brand new (previously a 2003 Nissan Xterra and then a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid). Right now we can afford (if it's the right decision) to plop down 30k cash towards a car, but that would pretty much be our entire savings. From what I can tell by searching around, that is pretty much the exact price I might be able to get for a 2013 Odyssey EX. All that said, I can't shake the feeling that it just would make more sense to try and find an older model odyssey at, say, 13-16k and take the risk that it'll break down because surely the 15k or so saved would easily cover any extra repairs. However, am I at all likely to find a (decent) odyssey in that price range at all due to the aforementioned used car prices being higher than normal? Should I just buy the new car and be happy knowing the full history of the vehicle? Should I pay the entirety of the amount up front or try to get a loan instead for some reason? I liked it better when I had way more disposable income and didn't have to think
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# ? Mar 4, 2013 00:21 |
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Back again. Went car shopping. Delaerships like Carmax seem terrible, and others aren't interested in what budget you give them. No, I don't want a $22k car when I told you my budget is $15k, thanks. Proposed Budget: No more than $15k if I can help it. I make $40k/year with $13k in cash right now. I have no real credit history, it seems. New or Used: Used. Body Style: 4-door, sedan or hatchbacks. Something with enough room inside, I'm not a small person. How will you be using the car?: Commute, occasional neighborhood driving. Possibility of longer trips, though. What aspects are most important to you?: I need something with at least some oomph. I'm used to driving a 1990 GMC pickup that has no problems getting up to freeway speed; a 4-cyl I test-drove seemed to sputter and struggle to make it up to 65mph. One of the cars I test-drove and found was pretty decent was a Ford Avenger, 2011. It was $15k or so at Carmax. A different dealer seemed dead-set on me taking a Kia Soul, but they look kind of lame and the price was way out of range again. I'm a complete newbie when it comes to this sort of thing, but even I could tell I was being taken for a ride by the dealerships. Browsing poo poo on the Las Vegas craigslist and I'm not sure what I should be looking for, either. Zamujasa fucked around with this message at 00:35 on Mar 4, 2013 |
# ? Mar 4, 2013 00:26 |
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iamnotcreative posted:Proposed Budget: ~$20 although willing to go a bit higher for a good reason If you're a bigger fellow and not worried about slightly worse fuel economy, look into midsize sedans too, in particular I would recommend The Chrysler 200 or Dodge Avenger, you can get an Avenger with the 283hp V6 for like $18k. http://www.truecar.com/prices-new/dodge/avenger-pricing/2013/2C1A96EB/ They are cheap because A) it's an older model, and B) they're quite frankly ugly. The Avenger isn't so bad but the 200 has a weird bulbous roofline/c-pillar that looks bizzare, and C) the 4 cylinder engine(what most people buy in a midsizer) isn't very good, has no power and gets mediocre fuel economy. On the other had, get one with the V6 and they are great cars, decent fuel economy, decent crash safety, lots of power and interior room, nice entertainment system for very little money. The Dodge Dart, although a decent car compared to its class peers, actually hasn't sold that well, and the biggest reason is that a very large number of people who go into the dealer looking for a dart end up getting an Avenger or 200, because with all the deals on them that Chrysler has, the price difference is almost negligible and the Avenger is a better buy unless you are absolutely set on getting the best highway fuel economy. Here's truedelta on reliability. http://www.truedelta.com/Chrysler-Sebring/problems-70/2008 http://www.truedelta.com/Dodge-Avenger/problems-635/2008 Even the 2008 model year (the year of the bankruptcy and when the workers didn't know if they were going to have a job tomorrow) has been excellent in terms of reliability. The power train is bullet proof. Also just to be clear on the Civic, the 2012 model year was apparently quite crappy enough that for 2013 Honda did a fairly major update and changed a bunch of things, so make sure you were testing the 2013 model.
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# ? Mar 4, 2013 01:17 |
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Mr.Radar posted:You should also check out the Chevy Cruze, Mazda 3 and Toyota Prius. The Cruze is Chevrolet's entry in this market segment and it's a very solid product. It has a slightly more comfortable ride than most in the segment and being based on the same platform as the Volt it has (comparatively) huge interior space, especially in the trunk (since they can delete the Volt's batteries). Eh, this might be overselling it a bit. Out of the entire current crop of compacts the Cruze is the oldest (other than the Corolla which no one is considering), came out in 2009 as a MY 2010, and at the time it was indeed the biggest in interior and truck space, compared to the OLD Elantra, OLD Focus, etc. I remember a big selling point when it came out was that it had a bigger trunk than a Malibu, which wasn't that surprising because at the time at least the Malibu had a tiny trunk for a midsize car. Not sure if the new Malibu has addressed that. I think the Jetta is the current king of interior and trunk space, the Focus, Dart and Elantra are about the same as the Cruze, and the Civic and Mazda3 might be a bit smaller.
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# ? Mar 4, 2013 01:33 |
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Kaedric posted:All that said, I can't shake the feeling that it just would make more sense to try and find an older model odyssey at, say, 13-16k and take the risk that it'll break down because surely the 15k or so saved would easily cover any extra repairs. However, am I at all likely to find a (decent) odyssey in that price range at all due to the aforementioned used car prices being higher than normal? Should I just buy the new car and be happy knowing the full history of the vehicle? Should I pay the entirety of the amount up front or try to get a loan instead for some reason? Odyssey minivans have been so highly rated for so long that you are going to pay a premium for them used. Choosing literally anything else in that category will save you thousands. It would not surprise me to see you get a 3 year old minivan with 35k miles in the $20k range. I would not worry about any significant maintenance until 100k miles.
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# ? Mar 4, 2013 07:16 |
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I'm looking at the new Fusion, and I can't believe Ford is still using the big ugly black antenna on the roof. Even my last-gen Altima had it integrated into the back window. Also surprised the smart key/push button start is only available on the highest spec model, that's another thing the Altima has had since 07. It was nice never having to take the key out of your pocket. Camry/Malibu/Passat have been eliminated, but choosing between the Fusion/Accord/Altima/Sonata is really hard. And then seeing that a 300hp Mustang is available for basically the same price is really tempting.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 00:58 |
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Proposed Budget: $5k or less New or Used: Used Body Style: Sedan, midsize or larger How will you be using the car?: Driving to school/work. Lots of suburban driving, some highway What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, comfort, MPG, also I would like to ride in style. I hate boring cars. I live in NJ.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 01:10 |
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TopherCStone posted:Proposed Budget: $5k or less So basically you want cheap, reliable, comfort, big, mpg, and looks. Is the fuel economy of a 2000-2003 maxima enough? (20 combined) The ford five hundred looks ok I guess, but will be hard at 5k. I'd also see if you can't get a deal on the virtually identical mercury montego. Fuel economy is not better than the maxima. Actually a 2002-2006 Nissan altima might fit the bill, at least with the 4. Edit: If the size is ok, I always like the Infiniti g20 and it is cheap. nm fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Mar 5, 2013 |
# ? Mar 5, 2013 01:45 |
I've been looking to get a light truck to beat around in, for random crap I can't fit into my Jetta, and also be able to carry around my bike and future kayak. 1988 Toyota N40 4x4 Pickup, with the Fuel Injected R22-E for $1500. 228k miles. Tell my why I should not get this truck. Looks like it took a whack to the passenger side which knocked the window out of the rail, but you know.. 20 year old truck and all. I suppose I should update with my requirements: Be a small truck. Be around $2k. Running and can pass inspection with just minor work. A/C a bonus. Shifty Pony fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Mar 5, 2013 |
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 02:45 |
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nm posted:So basically you want cheap, reliable, comfort, big, mpg, and looks. My father actually got a Ford Five Hundred essentially mint but with 150k miles on it from a friend for 500 dollars. It's a decent enough car, and if I can find another in good shape I'd get one (obviously I won't get that kind of deal). The Maxima doesn't appeal to me so much. I was really interested in a mid-80s Mercedes 300D, but the price of diesel makes the MPG a little... eh, plus I don't think anybody local knows how to work on them. Some I'm sure I could do myself, but if anything big were to happen I'd have nothing to do.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 02:55 |
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Amphion posted:I'm looking at the new Fusion, and I can't believe Ford is still using the big ugly black antenna on the roof. Even my last-gen Altima had it integrated into the back window. Also surprised the smart key/push button start is only available on the highest spec model, that's another thing the Altima has had since 07. It was nice never having to take the key out of your pocket. Camry/Malibu/Passat have been eliminated, but choosing between the Fusion/Accord/Altima/Sonata is really hard. And then seeing that a 300hp Mustang is available for basically the same price is really tempting. I agonized over the same decision and decided on the Accord. Headed to the dealership Wednesday after work. If it all works out it will be my 4th accord. 88, 96, 01 and now (hopefully) a 13!
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 03:41 |
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Proposed Budget: 20k New or Used: New Body Style: Doesn't matter. Prefer a hatchback for moving poo poo around once in a while. How will you be using the car?: Mostly to commute, but my drive is about 10 miles each way. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, MPG It seems like the Honda Fit is my best bet. The Hyundai Accent hatchback doesn't seem to open all the way when you put the seats down. I don't think I drive enough, 10k a year if that, to get a prius C. Any suggestions?
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 04:57 |
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TLG James posted:Proposed Budget: 20k What about the Elantra GT?
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 05:03 |
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Bovril Delight posted:What about the Elantra GT? Wow I didn't even know such a car existed... Will have to research my options more.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 05:13 |
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TopherCStone posted:I was really interested in a mid-80s Mercedes 300D, but the price of diesel makes the MPG a little... eh, plus I don't think anybody local knows how to work on them. Some I'm sure I could do myself, but if anything big were to happen I'd have nothing to do. Mercedes 300Ds aren't quite as reliable as people think. They were bombproof for the 80s, but most anything modern will beat it.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 05:22 |
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Shifty Pony posted:I've been looking to get a light truck to beat around in, for random crap I can't fit into my Jetta, and also be able to carry around my bike and future kayak. That truck looks really beat. If you're in the US or Canada(I don't know how it was offered or what it was like in other countries) you should also check out the ford ranger/mazda bxxxx. They are great trucks. I drive a 95 4x4 with the 4.0 every day and it is a great and pretty capable thing. I bought it over the comparable toyotas because it didn't have the price premium that toyota trucks often had and I was able to fit more comfortably inside. In some cases you can almost get 2 rangers for the price of the toyota. The 4.0 makes less hp but seems to make up for it in terms of a great torque curve.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 05:52 |
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Questions aimed towards those that have had to/chose to order a new car from a dealership..... My current car, a 2007 Dodge Charger SXT, will be paid off soon. While I don't 'need' a second car for the household, it would be beneficial and very convenient. I have set my eyes on a 2013 (or potentially 2014 depending on how late in the year I do this) Dodge Charger SRT8. I've been pleased with the SXT, but miss my old Vette days. I like the SRT8 for the feasibility of the 4-door large sedan, while still having the fun-factor. I have always settled for whatever the dealer had on hand. In this instance, I know what I want, and am willing to order and wait so that I can get it. I know that I won't pay more than Invoice minus 1% thanks to Chrysler F&F program. Other than that, I am lost. 1> Will dealers honor any rebates active at the time you place your order, or only what's out there upon delivery? (obviously 'from dealer inventory only' rebates wouldn't apply). 2> Do I place a small deposit, or am I actually putting down whatever my intended down payment would be in advance? (I would be hesitant to hand over 10k then have to wait 12 weeks). 3> Will the dealer actually give you a contract that will lock in my price just from me ordering? 4> How likely is it to get the dealer to bring the price down more? I am assuming low, since they don't have it sitting on their lot costing them. But if I can get better than Invoice minus 1%, I would obviously love that. 5> If financing, how soon can you pre-approve? I want to avoid unnecessary queries on my credit report. I'm sure I'll be fine, (CR around 775 with reasonable income and only a mortgage for debts), but would hate to have any surprises pop up last minute once the car arrives. 6> Any other lessons learned from your ordering experience that you would like to pass along? Edit - For anyone that is looking at new Chrysler/Dodge/Ram/Jeep vehicle, you can get Chrysler Friends/Affiliate pricing by joining random organizations that are considered an Affiliate to them. I used http://treadlightly.org/ but have seen a few others as well. For this year, only the new Jeep SRT8, Viper, and I think the Dart Limited are excluded. A hundred bucks to save roughly 2200 seemed like a no-brainer to me. I am a horrible haggler, so knowing that I won't pay more than that is worth it to me. Hope it helps others. Madbullogna fucked around with this message at 06:46 on Mar 5, 2013 |
# ? Mar 5, 2013 06:37 |
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I'm at an impasse with my car. I got a hand-me-down from the parents, a '98 Toyota Sienna minivan, the same car that picked me up from grade school, and drove it from LA to Seattle, where I work now. I'm lucky to have it, and it feels like an old friend, scratched and dented but still going strong. It's got about 95,000 miles, and still rides smooth; I can haul a lot of stuff if I need to, but mostly I use it to commute to work. As far as out-of-pocket costs go, it doesn't require heavy maintenance - Had a $750 job a year ago to replace the drive belt and cracked radiator, and I need to take it in in a couple of weeks to get new tires and get a tie rod replaced, which will cost about $800. That being said, it's costing me about $120 per month in gas, as I commute 40 miles a day and it gets a bit less than 20 MPG highway. Part of me is jonesing to get a new car; I was looking at the 2013 Nissan Leaf, full electric. I don't usually have to haul a lot of stuff, theres free charging at my work, and I don't drive out of its range, plus it would be nice to no longer have to pay for gas. Also, the tech geek in me loves all the gizmos and doodads in the thing, and the eco-friendliness for that nice smug feeling. Plus I can afford it - a bit tight, but afford it nonetheless. However, I can't bring myself to get rid of the car I have a history with, especially when the costs are just in repairs (~$800/year) and gas ($1200/year), versus $24K for the Leaf SL with 6.6 charger (less with some work discounts). If I did get it, I would donate the old girl to the children's hospital here, though probably shed a tear as I do so. Dunno if anyone has advice other than "Drive the old girl until she dies for less money you dummy" versus "make the investment in a cool new car and stop paying for gas you dummy."
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 09:15 |
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I'm actually going down that same road myself, except I have zero attachment to the vehicle I'd be kicking to the curb The Leaf might be the one vehicle where a lease can make a whole lot of sense - the tax credit goes to Nissan and thus comes off the front end, letting them get your monthly charge down to $200 for a S / $250 for an SV / $300 for an SL. If you finance a purchase instead, even though it may end up being a net lower cost - you're making those finance payments based on the pre-tax-credit price of the Leaf. Additionally, there's still a lot up in the air about the long term performance of the Leaf's battery pack. I'd much rather hand the car back in after three years than have to sell it, or worry about whether or not the battery will still be useful for me. Reason I'm doing it is with my Ranger and my commute, my gas bill alone nearly covers the Leaf S lease price, and the actual costs of maintenance / the money I have tied up in it make up the rest. Depending on how optimistic / pessimistic I want to be with my Ranger's fuel economy and maintenance numbers, I can actually make the leased Leaf $0.50 cheaper per month, or up to $60 per month more expensive. Which to me is worth it to never have to worry about maintenance again. Now, I've still got to beat up dealers on their pricing and figure out my personal costs to install the Level 2 charger at home before I start signing paperwork.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 09:33 |
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Squirrel Burger posted:Dunno if anyone has advice other than "Drive the old girl until she dies for less money you dummy" versus "make the investment in a cool new car and stop paying for gas you dummy." Buy a car for commuting in; keep the van for the occasional larger capacity vehicle purposes (hauling stuff, road trip). It shouldn't be much more to keep it on your insurance with a multi-vehicle policy, given its age, and with 95k on the clock it's still got plenty of years left to go. There may be a larger conversation to be had about what car is right for your commute vehicle, but if you love the old van, why not keep it?
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 09:55 |
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# ? Apr 29, 2024 16:21 |
Hotbod Handsomeface posted:That truck looks really beat. If you're in the US or Canada(I don't know how it was offered or what it was like in other countries) you should also check out the ford ranger/mazda bxxxx. They are great trucks. I drive a 95 4x4 with the 4.0 every day and it is a great and pretty capable thing. I bought it over the comparable toyotas because it didn't have the price premium that toyota trucks often had and I was able to fit more comfortably inside. In some cases you can almost get 2 rangers for the price of the toyota. The 4.0 makes less hp but seems to make up for it in terms of a great torque curve. Good point. I've found a '95 Ranger XLT 4-cyl manual with a bit of rear panel damage (cosmetic only, can be beaten out) for $2200. As it is just going to be a toodle-about vehicle and I live in a drat flat area the 4-cylinder shouldn't be a problem. My father is now interested in the Toyota as a parts truck for his '87.
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# ? Mar 5, 2013 16:50 |