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I have a friend who drives a Prius in Texas. Big diesel pickup trucks purposefully have run her off the road while billowing exhaust at her. This is actually a thing that happens.
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Jul 1, 2014 15:01
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 17:30 |
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In real America  it's well known that only commie hippie homosexuals from San Francisco or Los Angeles drive a Prius. ...however, I've seen more than one old grouch in Norcal driving one with a TeaParty or NoBama sticker on the back and enjoying sticking it to the gubmints oppressive communist gas tax regime.
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Jul 1, 2014 15:29
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Keyser S0ze posted:
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Jul 1, 2014 16:42
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As a Prius owner, gently caress the haters. Rock solid car, lowest cost of ownership, plenty of leg room (I'm 6'3) and storage room. I average 51mpg mixed driving. I traded in my Tacoma for it. Best decision ever. I commute though.
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Jul 1, 2014 17:29
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:I have a friend who drives a Prius in Texas. Big diesel pickup trucks purposefully have run her off the road while billowing exhaust at her. This is actually a thing that happens. Thats never happened ever
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Jul 2, 2014 04:54
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nm
Google Butt fucked around with this message at 10:14 on Jul 2, 2014 |
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Jul 2, 2014 04:54
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anne frank fanfic posted:Thats never happened ever Uh, I don't know where you live but some dude in a Smart got run off the road in Southern Indiana a few years back by a dude in a bro truck.
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Jul 2, 2014 04:56
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anne frank fanfic posted:Thats never happened ever It did, I've seen it. Never underestimate assholes in pickup trucks in bumfuck nowhere.
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Jul 2, 2014 05:00
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:It did, I've seen it. Never underestimate assholes in pickup trucks in bumfuck nowhere. This. People will try to roll coal on a convertible as well.
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Jul 2, 2014 05:18
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Aquatic Giraffe posted:It did, I've seen it. Never underestimate assholes in pickup trucks in bumfuck nowhere. Or anywhere around San Antonio.
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Jul 2, 2014 06:21
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A carfax report should show if a vehicle has had TSB's addressed, correct? If that's the case it looks like the 2008 MS3 I was looking at hasn't had any of those done. Is this a major concern?
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Jul 2, 2014 10:16
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Proposed Budget: up to 10k, would prefer around 5k New or Used: Used Body Style: Compact car How will you be using the car?: Mostly as a means of getting groceries and making the occasional 30-45 minute trip to visit family, go to the dentist, and stuff like that. I typically bike or ride public transit to work, so I'll most likely be using the car 1-2 times a week. I'm mostly looking into saving money on gas and insurance. I won't be hauling a lot of people or belongings and going fast isn't a priority. What aspects are most important to you? reliability, cost of ownership/maintenance, MPG. Aesthetics of a car don't really matter to me. If it means anything, I live in Houston near downtown. If public transit weren't so terrible and people were more conscientious around cyclists, I probably wouldn't be looking into getting a vehicle. Thanks in advance. savethequail fucked around with this message at 11:34 on Jul 2, 2014 |
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Jul 2, 2014 11:21
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Google Butt posted:A carfax report should show if a vehicle has had TSB's addressed, correct? If that's the case it looks like the 2008 MS3 I was looking at hasn't had any of those done. Is this a major concern? Recalls, yes. TSBs, probably not
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Jul 2, 2014 17:06
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anne frank fanfic posted:Thats never happened ever There's a guy that rolls coal around here with a bunch of vinyl letters stuck on, like 'FORGET GLOBAL WARMING' 'SCREW YOUR PRIUS' and '5 MPG!!!!!' Everytime I see him he is towing skidoos for whatever reason. edit: Man for sure I thought there'd be a pic of him on the internet somewhere, I found this instead. 
Uncle Jam fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jul 3, 2014 |
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Jul 3, 2014 02:10
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Hey car thread, I'm looking at a new 2014 Nissan Altima, and thinking about using the USAA car buying service to do it because I'm a pussy who can't deal with negotiations. The car buying service found one 60 miles away that I can get for about $17,500 (sans taxes/fees, which would be around $700 I guess?) which TrueCar says is "very good" and like $6k off MSRP. I guess what I want to know is 1. Is there any glaring flaws with the 2014 Altima I should know about? I sat in one and it felt fine to me but I'm not exactly up to speed on everything car-related. 2. Is that actually an okay price? 3. I have an awful 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara with a hosed up driver-side door (it got bent all the way backwards and is all crumpled and warped and stuff), peeling paint, bad catalytic converter, hosed up steering and probably a ton more wrong with it that I don't know about. Is it even worth trading in or should I just Thanks in advance 
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Jul 6, 2014 04:21
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:3. I have an awful 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara with a hosed up driver-side door (it got bent all the way backwards and is all crumpled and warped and stuff), peeling paint, bad catalytic converter, hosed up steering and probably a ton more wrong with it that I don't know about. Is it even worth trading in or should I just Call up a pick'n'pull or other scrapyard and get scrap value for it. They'll even come pick it up for you.
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Jul 6, 2014 18:30
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thelightguy posted:Call up a pick'n'pull or other scrapyard and get scrap value for it. They'll even come pick it up for you. What would that net me, like $100? I guess I could do that.
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Jul 6, 2014 19:27
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:What would that net me, like $100? I guess I could do that. You would be really surpised nowadays. When steel prices went way up scrap value of cars skyrocketed, and are still pretty dang high.
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Jul 6, 2014 22:17
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Ok so I consulted this thread a little while back on getting a new car. After a lot of thought, I'm actually looking at leasing an Audi S4 (on recommendation of this thread, actually), and I wanted to make sure I understand the leasing game correctly and have the proper strategy. So, first things first, after the test drive and when I've made my decision, it's dealing time. As I understand, I shouldn't let on that I'm looking at leasing or trading in at first and should strictly haggle the purchase price, correct? Then, once I have a price on paper, I ask about getting that on a lease. From what research I've done, it appears the 2014 S4 has a residual of 57% and a MF of 0.0007. Both sound fairly good to me, but how much can the dealer play around with that? I'm a young guy, so I'm assuming they'll definitely run my credit before committing to a money factor. For what it's worth, my credit is "good" insofar that the only knock against it is my oldest account is only 2 years old (my current car payment). I've recently opened a credit card account (something I should have done while in school) to have a more permanent credit building option. Anyways, assuming they don't try to jack up the interest on me and I think I've got a deal I like, then I could bring up the trade in, right? From other reading I've done, I shouldn't put the equity in my current vehicle towards capital cost reduction, though. I'm sure I could get a better price selling privately, but if I so choose, would the dealer offer to cut me a check for what remains after the payoff? Also, one last question: I don't want to do CCR because if the car gets totaled or stolen then that money is gone. I can, however, pay multiple security deposits to "buy down" the money factor, right? This will lower the monthly payment as well, but I get that money back at the end of the lease (or if it's totaled or stolen). Also also, GAP insurance yea or nay? Does all of that sound right? Have I made any glaring errors?
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Jul 6, 2014 23:02
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Dealers can, and often do mark up the MF rate. Audi Financial might be offering .0007 as their buy rate, but if a dealer can get you to .0010 or maybe a little higher they will pocket the difference. That .0007 is also for 'prestige' credit tier which is going to be very well established income and high credit score. Your credit might be an issue, as you may have a bit of a "thin" file. If your score is high you should be OK, I would be a little worried though Audi might ask for a co-signer on a 55 thousand dollar car. Depending on how much equity you have in your car, I would look into trading it in. Your equity could cover most of the fees and taxes associated with the transaction, and also reduce your sales tax by quite a bit. If you have more than 3K in equity you may be better off selling private party. GAP insurance is always yea...although you don't technically own the car, so the leasing company usually carries it. I don't know your personal business, but you're going to be around 550 to 600 a month for the car, probably another 180 for car insurance, and another 200 to 400 a month for operating expenses depending on how much you drive... I'll assume you have the income to support this comfortably.
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Jul 6, 2014 23:39
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skipdogg posted:Dealers can, and often do mark up the MF rate. Audi Financial might be offering .0007 as their buy rate, but if a dealer can get you to .0010 or maybe a little higher they will pocket the difference. That .0007 is also for 'prestige' credit tier which is going to be very well established income and high credit score. Going by Internet prices I've got roughly $5k in equity in my current car. I know it's less convenient to sell privately, but how much so? Finance-wise, I should be able to swing the payments provided the dealership is able to give me a decent (but not unreasonable) deal. All the budget planning I've done with this lease in mind has used conservative numbers, and while it is on the upper bounds of what I can responsibly afford, I think the amount of fun this car can be will be worth it.
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Jul 7, 2014 00:15
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Traitorous Leopard posted:Going by Internet prices I've got roughly $5k in equity in my current car. I know it's less convenient to sell privately, but how much so? I know you've been down this road with the thread already, but stretching your budget to the limit to lease a $55k car seems like a dumb idea to me. There are plenty of fun cars that cost half as much. If you're going to do it though, selling a car private party is pretty easy, especially if it's in decent condition. The main issue it sounds like you'll have is if you have a loan on the old car, can't be without a car, and can't support both payments, you'll have a juggling act. You'll have to find a seller, go to your bank with him/her, pay off the current note, the bank will give the buyer the title, then you'll have to immediately go to the dealer and lease the new car.
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Jul 7, 2014 01:14
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Yeah, an S4 for 55k... You're paying a lot for the luxury, not necessarily the drive.
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Jul 7, 2014 01:36
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Yeah I'm gonna put my two cents in and repeat what I said before. There is a lot more that money could be going towards than dumping it mindlessly into an excessive car at your salary.
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Jul 7, 2014 04:04
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Internet Explorer posted:Yeah, an S4 for 55k... You're paying a lot for the luxury, not necessarily the drive. If you're honestly looking for a fun drive, I'd highly recommend looking at the BMW M235i. It's probably the best sports car money can buy, and it's a decent bit cheaper than an S4.
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Jul 7, 2014 04:13
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Grumpwagon posted:I know you've been down this road with the thread already, but stretching your budget to the limit to lease a $55k car seems like a dumb idea to me. There are plenty of fun cars that cost half as much. Yeah making payments on both cars each month doesn't sound super fun. I've never done anything like selling a car privately, so if the dealer isn't trying to completely rip me off I may just go with what they offer for the convenience. quote:Yeah, an S4 for 55k... You're paying a lot for the luxury, not necessarily the drive. It's the combination of the luxury and the drive that I find so appealing. I am open to suggestions if y'all can think of cars that fill a similar role but can be had for less.
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Jul 7, 2014 04:36
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Sole Survivor posted:If you're honestly looking for a fun drive, I'd highly recommend looking at the BMW M235i. It's probably the best sports car money can buy, and it's a decent bit cheaper than an S4. I was considering that one at first, but none of my nearby BMW dealers have one on the lot to test drive. It does sticker about $6k cheaper at the base model, though. Insurance-wise, however, I would imagine it would be noticeably more expensive than the S4 since it's a coupe. I got a quote for the S4 and S5, and the S4 would run about $750 every 6 months whereas the S5 was almost $1200. Maybe I'm missing something, but there isn't much difference between those cars aside from one being a sedan while the other is a coupe.
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Jul 7, 2014 04:49
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The 55K number I gave was a bit high but I figured you'd be going after a car with some options. A base trim S4 with MSRP of 48K can be had for a couple grand under MSRP. I did the expensive (for me) car back in my early 20's... I don't regret it per se... but in retrospect it probably wasn't the smartest thing I ever did. On one hand I'm glad I had that experience when I was young and I had no responsibilities... I could spend that much money on a car without worrying about wife, kids, mortgage, etc. . On the other hand, I was car poor for a long time. I didn't have a lot of disposable income left after the car, and my life tended to revolve around other car enthusiast, the car club, going to the track etc. Sometimes I think I missed out on other stuff I should have been doing in my early/mid 20's. I did have a good time though, so if you can swing it, I say go for it (putting the BFC side of things aside of course). Interest rates are low, residual values are high, it's a good time to lease a car if you're going to lease one. I'm personally a big fan of the Audi S cars, nice balance of luxury and power. They're not terribly impractical, so if you're young and single consider something even more impractical...maybe a Porsche Cayman or a new Corvette. You can still put a baby seat in the back of an S4
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Jul 7, 2014 05:12
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The S4 I had in mind was actually stickering for $57k (you were right about the options!). As for the practicality side of things, I just really prefer the styling of sedans to the coupe/sports car look. Plus, I'd like to be able to provide a slightly more comfortable ride to friends if I've gotta pack more than one of them in there. I put together a rough, conservative budget earlier, and I calculated I'd have an extra $600/mo left over if my lease payment was about $700/mo. This budget was assuming I maxed out 401k contributions, spent $23/day on food (weekends included), and blew $125 every weekend on entertainment. The tax amount I used for my budget was also high because the number was based on my income before 401k contributions. Looking it over, $600/mo in savings is a little light. I would definitely say I overestimated some expenses, though. End of the day, I'm not going in on this car unless I can get a reasonable deal.
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Jul 7, 2014 06:00
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700 is probably doable if you trade your car in... quick 1 AM back of the paper math shows 0 down is going to be around 775 a month with no extra security deposits, and no cap cost reduction, but includes all your fees. If your trade in equity covers your dealer fees, acquisition fee, first months payment (you pay ahead of time on a lease..you'll make your first payment when you sign) and takes the cap cost down a couple grand you should be able to swing under 700...(ballpark 680 ish). I would need specifics like what city/state you are in to run more accurate numbers.. That's also including getting 2K off MSRP which should be doable if you're in a major metro area. 1 other suggestion, find out how your state deals with taxes on leases. Some states just tax the monthly payment of the lease... here in Texas I get the privilege of paying the entire sales tax costs of the vehicle up front which skews the numbers a bit.
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Jul 7, 2014 06:31
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skipdogg posted:700 is probably doable if you trade your car in... quick 1 AM back of the paper math shows 0 down is going to be around 775 a month with no extra security deposits, and no cap cost reduction, but includes all your fees. If your trade in equity covers your dealer fees, acquisition fee, first months payment (you pay ahead of time on a lease..you'll make your first payment when you sign) and takes the cap cost down a couple grand you should be able to swing under 700...(ballpark 680 ish). I would need specifics like what city/state you are in to run more accurate numbers.. That's also including getting 2K off MSRP which should be doable if you're in a major metro area. Ha, well if ya get bored, I live in Florida, but the dealership is in Alabama. Appreciate it.
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Jul 7, 2014 13:26
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Proposed Budget: About 12kish, in Queens/NYC. I have a 2002 Nissan Sentra for trade-in with super low miles, but kind of doubt due to body damage (faded paint, scratches, etc.) that it will net me much. New or Used: Budget means likely used. Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) Four door. We both love hatchbacks/station wagons. How will you be using the car?: Regular weekend driving. Errands, etc. We are expecting our first baby in January, so the big issue here is a roomy backseat. My husband is a big, big guy, and we need the backseat to be roomy enough to fit a car seat, but also allow the the front seat to go back. We tried the Honda Fit, and it's a no-go. Just too cramped up front. The car doesn't have to have gizmos. A/C would be great, and cruise control. Other than that, it's all gravy. I'm so used to driving beaters, that just something made after 2010 would be a luxury. That being said, I want this to be a nice car and last us a long time. I love my sister's Prius, but I think a later model is out of our price range. Most important is safety, gas mileage and the aforementioned roominess.
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Jul 7, 2014 19:17
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:What would that net me, like $100? I guess I could do that. If the car runs it's worth way more than scrap value. At the very least, get a quote on the trade-in value (after negotiating price on the car you're buying). Or you can sell it on craigslist. You should give it at least a couple of weeks to sell, and just assume in advance that 80% of the people who contact you will flake out, and another 10% are scammers. The remaining 10% will consist of mostly people who will try to lowball you by showing up with less cash than the agreed-upon price. E.g., expect to find about one in five to one in ten contacts are people who are actually serious about maybe buying the car, and be ready to tell them to leave when they offer you $400 when your list asking price was $1200 or whatever. This all sounds bad, but you should probably be able to craigslist the car for substantially more than its trade-in value, so if several hundred (or even a thousand+) dollars is worth the headache for a couple of weeks to you, by all means do it.
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Jul 7, 2014 19:42
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Proposed Budget: About 15K. New or Used:Used Body Style: (e.g. 2 door? 4 door? Compact/Midsize/Fullsize Sedan? Truck? SUV?) Hatchback How will you be using the car?: Driving to work (30 mile roundtrip with sometimes lots of 10 mile round trip service calls in a day) as well as general errands and driving. I've been looking at the 2012 Honda Fit Sport, Ford Focus/Fiesta and the Hyundai Accent/Velosters. MPG, reliability and cargo space are all super important for me, but fun to drive and an audio system with a USB connection is up there too. I have test driven the Fit Sport and loved it a lot.
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Jul 7, 2014 20:42
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Leperflesh posted:If the car runs it's worth way more than scrap value. At the very least, get a quote on the trade-in value (after negotiating price on the car you're buying). Okay, I guess it doesn't hurt to try. Anyway just asking again 'bout the 2014 Altima S before I get further into this, is there anything glaringly wrong with it?
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Jul 7, 2014 22:56
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:3. I have an awful 2002 Suzuki Grand Vitara with a hosed up driver-side door (it got bent all the way backwards and is all crumpled and warped and stuff), peeling paint, bad catalytic converter, hosed up steering and probably a ton more wrong with it that I don't know about. Is it even worth trading in or should I just I found a dealer chain running a "cash for clunkers" knockoff promo and managed to get $1500 out of a barely functioning 1994 Camry. It was probably actually worth that as a private sale, but this was easier. See if anyone is doing something like that around you if you don't want to gently caress with craigslist. But you would do better selling it privately, even to a guy who plans to just flip it.
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Jul 8, 2014 00:21
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Parallel Paraplegic posted:Anyway just asking again 'bout the 2014 Altima S before I get further into this, is there anything glaringly wrong with it? Going by this nissan forum it seems for '13 there were a lot of transmission failures but it may be better for '14+. Although they sell a shitload of them so who knows if it really was a lot. http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2013-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/373161-cvt-replacement-list-5th-gens-only.html That looks like a good price but I can't see how taxes/fees would be that low. I was at a dealer recently and the best they could do was 22k as a final out the door price for a 2.5 s which seems way too high.
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Jul 8, 2014 01:34
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Proposed Budget: Around 5k, leaning towards 1k or 2k more. New or Used: Used Body Style: Coupe? Something a bit more sporty. How will you be using the car?: I want a reliable car, but I'm transitioning into a job where I'll be driving quite a bit (they say 60% of my time.) I want something a little more fun than an econobox, because odds are I will be stuck with this thing for the next 10 years. Carrying a lot of stuff isn't that important to me. What aspects are most important to you?: MPG, reliability. But also something a little fun. Was looking into a Honda Accord or Toyota Celica Coupe but I cannot find anything in SoCal that isn't 3k over what it should be.
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Jul 8, 2014 02:52
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Alright so I went by the dealer today to test out the S4 - holy moley. What a car. Anyways, the deals they could offer me on one that's stickered for $57k were $740/mo for 36 months or $700/mo for 42 months. That includes all taxes and fees and such, with no money down (aside from the equity in my trade-in that they actually gave me a decent offer on). Are those "gently caress off, kid" deals or do they seem reasonable? They seem reasonable to me. Also, is there any reason to go for the 36 months over 42 aside from being able to get out of the lease sooner? I'm still giving myself several days to decide for sure, but I don't think I can haggle the dealership much more. If that's a bad deal, then I'm just gonna keep my current car and save for a bit I guess. Thanks in advance for all the advice, fellas.
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Jul 8, 2014 05:47
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 17:30 |
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Sludgesicle Man posted:Proposed Budget: Around 5k, leaning towards 1k or 2k more. Congratulations, you are a future AI poster because the answer is Miata! No, seriously, stop laughing. They're cheap to buy ($5-7k should get you a decent pick of '94-'04 models), dirt cheap to run, and for anything remotely near as cheap, the Miata is the definition of fun.
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Jul 8, 2014 08:21
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