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Just The Facts posted:Yeah, I'm in the DC area so I'm expecting to pay a little more for everything. Thanks for the info guys. That's a good deal for around here as long as nothing's wrong with it.
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Sep 5, 2014 22:17
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Proposed Budget: $20000-30000 but flexible New or Used: New or low mileage used Body Style: Wagon How will you be using the car?: Going from a 2 car household to 1 in a public transportation friendly city. Usually used to haul self, wife, two kids (2 and 3 years old) and a dog. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, MPG Moving to Seattle and going down to 1 car. I'm looking to buy something outright with cash. I currently drive a Mazda 3, wife currently drives a Jeep Liberty. I'm 6'4 and fit in the Mazda (sans children) but not the Jeep. I'm not really into the high ride height so I want to try and stay away from small SUVs. New I'm looking at the Subaru Forester but haven't heard good things about the 2.5i, Volvo XC70 but the price for the T6 is a little high. What else should I be looking at? Used MB E350 Wagon? Audi Allroad? lolminicountryman? I see a 2011 CTS-V Wagon for $46K I could stretch my budget to... I'm starting to care more about features like remote start, iphone sync, and nav. AWD would be nice to have but I don't think its a dealbreaker for me. Why won't mazda sell the 6 wagon here 
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Sep 5, 2014 23:13
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Arzakon posted:
 Yes, the Audi Allroad, well known for its reliability and fuel efficiency. 1) Don't buy any of the cars on that list except for the Forester I guess. 2) Small SUVs are really just wagons but they have to call them SUVs otherwise stupid people won't buy them. 3) You should really just buy a minivan. The Dodge/Chrysler ones are cheap, the Japanese ones are better but more expensive, but they all do the job reasonably well. I lean towards the Chrysler ones because small children are dumb assholes who just destroy everything they touch and won't even remember it 2 weeks later so why buy them anything nice? The Mazda5 is smaller and can be had with a manual but is old and doesn't get great crash test ratings. There's also a new Kia van I think but it's brand new and I know nothing about it.
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Sep 6, 2014 04:27
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Throatwarbler posted:
I think is a violation of AI rules to talk someone out of a CTS-V wagon.
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Sep 6, 2014 05:42
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Clear answer is buy a range rover from carmax
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Sep 6, 2014 05:43
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I think you mean a G55 AMG and get your dad to cosign.
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Sep 6, 2014 10:20
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How is the Outback with the 3.6? There is no way I'm putting my wife behind the wheel of a CTS-V in rainy hill land, as much as I want one. I'll take a look at some other small SUVs but the Liberty feels way different than a wagon.
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Sep 6, 2014 12:10
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Well yeah the Liberty is body on frame with a live axle, that's why it feels so small and cramped inside. I meant most small SUVs being made today. Outback with the 3.6 is all right but eh, what do you need the 3.6l for? I guess the 2015 CVT model gets better fuel economy than say a Ford Edge with the 3.7 but who buys those things.
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Sep 6, 2014 14:42
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What's the word on the Kia Forte? I've been eying a 2012 on Carmax, with 40K miles for $16,000. Looks really nice but I know nothing about Kias.
pro starcraft loser fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Sep 6, 2014 |
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Sep 6, 2014 15:17
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Arzakon posted:How is the Outback with the 3.6? Why would you get the 3.6? The 2.5 is perfectly capable.
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Sep 6, 2014 15:40
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Why would you get the 3.6? The 2.5 is perfectly capable. Apparently not. http://wot.motortrend.com/1407_subaru_faces_class_action_suit_for_excessive_oil_consumption.html
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Sep 6, 2014 15:57
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Throatwarbler posted:Apparently not. It sure seems like that is primarily related to people not checking their oil level. Subaru will probably cover it following the suit anyway.
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Sep 6, 2014 16:05
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Just The Facts posted:What's the word on the Kia Forte? I've been eying a 2012 on Carmax, with 40K miles for $16,000. Looks really nice but I know nothing about Kias. The 2014 is a much better car in every way, I would expect the old generation to have depreciated more. I know that pricing varies widely by area, but $16k would be more than my Dad paid for a brand new midrange one in 2011, or than my coworker paid for a stripped 2014 one about a year ago. Carmax tends to be overpriced.
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Sep 6, 2014 17:09
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:It sure seems like that is primarily related to people not checking their oil level. Subaru will probably cover it following the suit anyway. Subarus statement seems to indicate they are covering it now. I'm still not surr jow checking your oil every fuel up isn't still a thing.
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Sep 6, 2014 19:42
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nm posted:Subarus statement seems to indicate they are covering it now. poo poo, I don't. I check every other month or so if I am not getting an oil change.
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Sep 6, 2014 21:21
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I can get a 2010 Honda Fit with ~40k miles from a reliable private seller (1st owner) for $11000. The KBB and Edmund's value calculator show this is a fair deal, and I'm buying the carfax report and having mechanic inspect it. However, I'm only going to use the car for a 17mi highway commute (each way) and I think this might be a more expensive car then I need. Should I try to hold out for <$8k vehicle, or is that an unrealistic price? How much would people in this thread pay to avoid dealing with dealers?
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Sep 6, 2014 22:08
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:poo poo, I don't. I check every other month or so if I am not getting an oil change. That just seems like a bad idea when an oil leak can develop fairly quickly without warning even in a newer car.
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Sep 6, 2014 22:13
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nm posted:That just seems like a bad idea when an oil leak can develop fairly quickly without warning even in a newer car. I have an oil level monitor in the vehicle and an oil pressure and temp gauge. If it's serious enough to not be caught by any of those systems, it's not going to be caught by me picking up the dip stick every two weeks.
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Sep 6, 2014 22:49
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:I have an oil level monitor in the vehicle and an oil pressure and temp gauge. If it's serious enough to not be caught by any of those systems, it's not going to be caught by me picking up the dip stick every two weeks. Well an oil level is basically the car doing that for you. My cars don't do that mr fancypants. That said the oil pressurr warning light at speed is basically a "you need a new engine" light unless you are very lucky.
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Sep 7, 2014 00:36
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Father just asked me if this was a good deal and I told him I have no idea. http://www.ebay.com/itm/121426029248?forcerRptr=true&item=121426029248&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123 Is it a good deal? He's a musician so he had been looking at subarus and SUVs but he's not a drummer or anything so a smaller car could totally work and he seems to like it?
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Sep 7, 2014 02:14
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nm posted:That just seems like a bad idea when an oil leak can develop fairly quickly without warning even in a newer car. I have never checked the oil in any of my cars outside of oil changes and I've had a 20 year old turbo 4G63 and a Chrysler 2.7l V6. Are you guys seriously suggesting that it's the owner's fault for not checking the oil every fillup? It's a 2014 Subaru not a World War 1 biplane.
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Sep 7, 2014 02:49
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Throatwarbler posted:I have never checked the oil in any of my cars outside of oil changes and I've had a 20 year old turbo 4G63 and a Chrysler 2.7l V6. Rx-8 reliability would also double (not hard) if people did this.
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Sep 7, 2014 02:52
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Nocturtle posted:I can get a 2010 Honda Fit with ~40k miles from a reliable private seller (1st owner) for $11000. The KBB and Edmund's value calculator show this is a fair deal, and I'm buying the carfax report and having mechanic inspect it. However, I'm only going to use the car for a 17mi highway commute (each way) and I think this might be a more expensive car then I need. Should I try to hold out for <$8k vehicle, or is that an unrealistic price? How much would people in this thread pay to avoid dealing with dealers? This sounds like a fine deal, and Fits are likely to continue to depreciate slowly. Good economy car, for an equivalent under $8k you'll be looking at less reliable vehicles.
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Sep 7, 2014 02:56
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nm posted:Every fillup or two, yes. poo poo happens. I check my oil every fillup on my Mazda and have never added a quart. It takes 2 seconds, and if an oil line starts leaking I won't need a new engine. Well with an RX-8 it's different. You need to be on top of it because the rotary engine consumes oil as part of its regular operation. And how you've never had to add oil baffles me. I had to add a half quart every 500 miles just from the way it consumes oil. (There wasn't a leak) Also some people would define reliability as not needing to stay on top of the oil level.
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Sep 7, 2014 04:19
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GutBomb posted:Well with an RX-8 it's different. You need to be on top of it because the rotary engine consumes oil as part of its regular operation. And how you've never had to add oil baffles me. I had to add a half quart every 500 miles just from the way it consumes oil. (There wasn't a leak) The fact is that all car use oil (though not as much as a rotary). I agree that the ideal is not having to top up between changes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't have to at least make sure things are working properly. Also, with the much longer OCIs of modern engines, having to add half a quart over 7500mi or more is not the same as adding the same in 3000mi, but people still seem to define oil use by the oil change.
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Sep 7, 2014 07:28
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Proposed Budget: 18K or less New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 Door Wagon/SUV How will you be using the car?: To and from work. Do you prefer a luxury vehicle with all the gizmos?): Yes What aspects are most important to you?: Must have 3rd row seating. SPECIAL CONSIDERATIONS: It snows in Ohio Any reasons not to buy a Buick Enclave?
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Sep 8, 2014 23:49
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My grandpa offered to sell me a very clean 2005 Hyundai Tuscan with 75,000 miles for $2000. I don't really want an old SUV with terrible gas mileage but I'm currently driving a $500 beater corolla that is hanging together through strategic duct taping. My concern is that the hyundai will eventually need a lot of work because it's old, and old things fall apart, and then my $2000 will be more like $4000, and that money might have been better spent on a down payment for a new car. On the other hand, I can't really afford a new car. As an additional twist, the hyundai might be cursed- its previous 2 owners died. Does anyone have experience buying an older car? Thoughts?
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Sep 9, 2014 02:07
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Proposed Budget: 8-12k New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 Door car How will you be using the car?: To and from school What aspects are most important to you?: MPG, reliability I know nothing about cars, so I can't even give an example of what I'd prefer. As long as it has 4 doors, decent MPG and won't break often I'm happy.
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Sep 9, 2014 02:10
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Proposed Budget: up to 6k, paying cash. Prefer to spend as little as possible while not buying a POS. New or Used: Used Body Style: Any How will you be using the car?: Commuting to work What aspects are most important to you?: Doesn't leave me stranded, maybe sorta fun? I've been looking for a cheap rear end ride for about a month and a half just to get me there and back. Waffling around and looking at poo poo consumes so much of my time. I just want to get something and be done with it. I've been looking at the usual stuff, your 90s Corollas, Accords, Camrys, Civics, etc. I found a 94' MX-6 for sale today I'm mulling over. 115k miles. 1500 clams.    Very, very clean on the inside. All signs point to this being a very good deal. I don't have any kids or stuff to haul around. Yeah, it's 20 years old but still has that classic form that makes people still like driving older Miatas around. Going to take it for a spin tomorrow evening - is there any reason besides gross owner negligence I shouldn't take this deal and make it my daily driver for the next couple years?
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Sep 9, 2014 04:05
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I posted back in March about financing a car, got a lot of good suggestions (thank you again, by the way), but haven't yet bought a car. I am clearly in no rush to buy anything. A good friend was actually letting me drive their car (97 subaru) for a bit while they weren't using it. In return, I did basic checks on its fluids & replaced a headlight. It made me really reconsider buying a little 3K beater for cash to drive around for 2-3 years while I save up to buy a nice(r) car outright. I grew up in a family of cowboy mechanics (got a chain and a sturdy tree? that pushed-in front end will be fixed in no time!) & legitimate mechanics (don't let uncle fred near your car unless it's not worth fixing anyways), so my knowledge of car repair/maintenance isn't the best, but I can get under the hood of an old car and fix a reasonable amount of stuff. It was also kind of fun to get under the hood and fix things.  Copy & paste of the pertinent stuff: Budget: $2000-4000 Body Style: 2 or 4 door, very compact. A Camry is too big and a smart car is about right, but on the small side. How will you be using the car?: To/from work for the most part. 5 days per week, 16mi round trip. Trip can either be almost all freeway driving or not. Its usually a similar commute time based on traffic. An additional 3mi/day for gym/school. What aspects are most important to you? Reliable, DIY fixable, automatic transmission, with good mpg is about all I care about for the most part. Subaru's are very popular in Portland. I have a friend who swears by Toyota Tercels. Last cars I owned was a 98 Plymouth Neon back in ~2004 which seem and a 93(ish) Geo Prizm in ~2006. The Neon ran like a champ despite me treating it like complete poo poo. E: I'd probably benefit greatly from just sucking it up and learning to drive a manual ladyweapon fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Sep 9, 2014 |
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Sep 9, 2014 11:30
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ladyweapon posted:I posted back in March about financing a car, got a lot of good suggestions (thank you again, by the way), but haven't yet bought a car. I am clearly in no rush to buy anything. A good friend was actually letting me drive their car (97 subaru) for a bit while they weren't using it. In return, I did basic checks on its fluids & replaced a headlight. It made me really reconsider buying a little 3K beater for cash to drive around for 2-3 years while I save up to buy a nice(r) car outright. I grew up in a family of cowboy mechanics (got a chain and a sturdy tree? that pushed-in front end will be fixed in no time!) & legitimate mechanics (don't let uncle fred near your car unless it's not worth fixing anyways), so my knowledge of car repair/maintenance isn't the best, but I can get under the hood of an old car and fix a reasonable amount of stuff. It was also kind of fun to get under the hood and fix things. Not a lot of choice for that budget; it really depends on what's on the market near you. A corolla/civic type car with reasonable mileage and no accidents is about as good as you'll get. Sokani posted:Proposed Budget: 8-12k An earlier Prius would be in your price range... Or a 2011 ish Honda fit, which is adorable.
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Sep 9, 2014 12:45
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Emasculatrix posted:My grandpa offered to sell me a very clean 2005 Hyundai Tuscan with 75,000 miles for $2000. I don't really want an old SUV with terrible gas mileage but I'm currently driving a $500 beater corolla that is hanging together through strategic duct taping. My concern is that the hyundai will eventually need a lot of work because it's old, and old things fall apart, and then my $2000 will be more like $4000, and that money might have been better spent on a down payment for a new car. On the other hand, I can't really afford a new car. As an additional twist, the hyundai might be cursed- its previous 2 owners died. Does anyone have experience buying an older car? Thoughts? As long as the Tucson has been well maintained, it's probably a decent deal. Check the service intervals and make sure nothing big is immediately on the horizon. Edmunds pegs that car at about $4k on a trade in, so look at it this way: if you decide to buy a newer car, you can trade the fucker in for more than what your $2k in cash would have gotten you.
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Sep 9, 2014 13:54
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Thanks to this thread I bought a '14 Subaru outback with 0% financing. Not a bad deal and the car is super fun to drive! Only problem is we got too good a deal and now my wife wants to trade in her paid off minivan for a newer one. Oh well back to saving and searching for the right deal. Man do I hate car dealerships.
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Sep 11, 2014 21:38
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Alright, question time. My grandfather passed and my grandma no longer needs his car so she is offering to sell it to me for a few hundred bucks. I could sell my car, and not have a car payment for a while which would be really nice, but the problems is the car itself: an '88 Bronco II. Everything I can find about these say that you will probably die in a rollover accident if you own one. I've owned an 05 wrangler before, and managed to not ever roll it, are these things really the death traps they've been made out to be? Would I be ok if I just installed some dual action shocks and a roll bar? I have very little interest in dying in a car crash.
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Sep 11, 2014 23:59
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Old Man Pants posted:Alright, question time. My grandfather passed and my grandma no longer needs his car so she is offering to sell it to me for a few hundred bucks. I could sell my car, and not have a car payment for a while which would be really nice, but the problems is the car itself: an '88 Bronco II. Everything I can find about these say that you will probably die in a rollover accident if you own one. I've owned an 05 wrangler before, and managed to not ever roll it, are these things really the death traps they've been made out to be? Would I be ok if I just installed some dual action shocks and a roll bar? I have very little interest in dying in a car crash. Old cars are significantly more dangerous than new cars. If you are aware that this is a car likely to roll, you probably will not die in a single vehicle rollover accident. If you don't drive a lot and can handle the fuel economy, an 80s Bronco sounds great!
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Sep 12, 2014 00:01
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Hello all. Well my wife and I had a kid and so now we need a family vehicle to fit us, our two dogs, a baby and babby accessories in. With our current vehicles the passenger seat needs to be alllll the way forward just to fit the car seat in properly. We don't want a van and we don't want an SUV/Crossover. So, we're left with wagons! Wagons are awesome in my opinion but the downside is that there are almost no cool ones available in the USA. We want a functional wagon for our family vehicle and I want it to be fun to drive with some reasonable power. I am looking at two right now. I test drove this 2008 BMW 535xi yesterday -$23,995 49,816 mi http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/615970537/overview/ It's got all the bells and whistles with premium and cold weather packages, (it even has night vision!). It's a pleasurable drive and the power is surprising for such a heavy vehicle. The space is great and the leather interior is like new. The exterior is in pretty good shape for a six year old car. One minor scratch on a rear passenger door, a very slight dent on the front right passenger door, and then normal stone chips on the hood/fender. I plan on test driving this tonight/tomorrow, a 2011 Audi Audi A4 2.0T Avant Premium -$22,999 32,230 mi http://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/612472867/overview/ We currently own Volkswagens so I think an Audi would be similar to drive. It's a smaller vehicle with a smaller engine but better gas mileage etc. This car is under factory warranty until December of this year. It's cheaper, newer and has better gas mileage but has a much smaller engine (2.0l turbo) but could be "tuned" to have more pep. It's also lighter than the bimmer I think. Does anyone have some advice for me? Any comments on reliability or maintenance? Is it smarter to get a newer car or an older car? Other options could be an Audi Allroad, Cadillac CTS Wagon, and Volvo wagons within similar price ranges. Any comments, advice, recommendations etc would be greatly appreciated as I think the BMW will sell fast as it's the only one of its kind available within 100 mile radius...
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Sep 12, 2014 16:19
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:As long as the Tucson has been well maintained, it's probably a decent deal. Check the service intervals and make sure nothing big is immediately on the horizon. Edmunds pegs that car at about $4k on a trade in, so look at it this way: if you decide to buy a newer car, you can trade the fucker in for more than what your $2k in cash would have gotten you. I think I'm going to buy it. It needs the 75,000 scheduled maintenance right now...can I do that in lieu of a pre-purchase inspection (or vice versa)?
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Sep 12, 2014 17:05
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Proposed Budget: Under 15K New or Used: Used Body Style: 4 Door How will you be using the car? Daily commute to work (About 8mi) What aspects are most important to you?: Reliability, DIY/cheaper repairs, fun-to-drive and mid-range luxury features I am looking at a 98k mile 2008 Honda Accord V6 EX right now that is at a dealer for $13.5k, Carfax shows it was a Certified Pre-Owned in 2011 and the last owner maintained it regularly. Can I do better? Also are there any common problems with this model I should be aware of?
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Sep 12, 2014 17:17
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Proposed Budget: 30K, if 20K is possible I can avoid a loan but in the end I can go higher if it's worth it. New or Used: New, newer used. Body Style: 2/4 door, prefer something smaller but I'm not picky. How will you be using the car?: 10-30 minute commute to work, 3+ hour trips every few weekends. Would prefer android integration, and if possible a HD radio receiver (or something with an easy to replace radio) since I have a few good HD channels in the area. Anything extra is fine, but nothing else comes to mind as a requirement since I have a 10 year old car with nothing special now. What aspects are most important to you? Reliability, maintenance costs, fuel mileage are important. Needs to be able to handle Minnesotan freeways and city streets in the winter.
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Sep 12, 2014 17:41
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| # ? Apr 26, 2024 19:49 |
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Emasculatrix posted:I think I'm going to buy it. It needs the 75,000 scheduled maintenance right now...can I do that in lieu of a pre-purchase inspection (or vice versa)? Well, I'd take it in for a pre purchase first. If anything horrifying is uncovered, bail. Then, buy the car, and take it in for the 75k. The mechanic might hook you up.
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Sep 12, 2014 18:00
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