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Thanks, I might check that BT adapter out if I really really want to use my phone but yeah $80 seems like a lot for that.
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# ? Nov 12, 2014 19:45 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 13:12 |
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I got the Tune2Air for my GTi and it owns. It seemed pricey but it got the exact job done that I wanted and it's worked every day without a hiccup for the last two months.
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# ? Nov 12, 2014 21:48 |
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Anyone here had experience with the higher output version of the 1.4 TSI you get in late 00s Golfs or the 1.8 TSI in similar age A3s? There seems to be much less information about these online than the 2.0 T
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# ? Nov 13, 2014 07:08 |
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Ezekial posted:I have a 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8 Liter with the turbo. I used to drive a 2008 GLI. Granted that was a 2.0 liter engine that was turbo charged as well, but that had infinitely more torque.It slammed coming out of stops which was amazing. Is there any way I can make my A4 anywhere close to the man my GLI was? I'm not willing to spend 5 grand over a turbo kit, but do you recommend getting a performance ECU? And does a new exhaust system really....really do much besides add a few horsepower and make it louder. (Keep in mind my county is a county that has bullshit emissions tests...one of the only counties in my state.) 1.8t? or just a NA engine? If it's the turbo, a new ecu program runs about 600 bucks (cheaper if you watch for yearly sales) and bumps power about 40hp/40torks. My 04.5 GLI had the tune and it definitely gives it a bit more pep. Factory on the 1.8t is only like 180hp. The 2.0t is a lot faster off the line than the 1.8t was. I got straight smoked by a 2.0t Passat that lined up against me back when I had my 1.8t. This might help. http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?2858460-Complete-Idiots-Guide-To-Basic-Modding-For-1-8T For the love of god don't post there though.
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# ? Nov 13, 2014 19:33 |
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2012 Jetta SE, automatic, 45k mileage. So, it was pretty drat cold today in upstate NY mid 20s on the way to work, mid teens on the trip home, no issues starting or warming up, ran fine, and about 15 minutes or so into the trip, I went to clean the windshield, and the washer fluid came out, but the wipers themselves wouldn't budge at all. Blades weren't frozen to the windshield or anything like that, and there did not appear to be any ice or other block. It sounded like the wiper motor was running, but I am not 100% positive on that, but I can certainly check on the way to work tomorrow. For informative purposes, it did rain last night, and while I am pretty sure that I did turn the wipers off before shutting the car off, there is a possibility that the wipers were on the lowest intermittent setting when the car started today. I tried the wipers a few times on the trip home tonight, and nothing. It's after midnight, so obviously I'm not going to tinker with it tonight, but it will sit outside all night in the cold. Could this just be a case of it just being the first real cold day, and things being a bit stubborn, or something beyond that? What do I look for tomorrow?
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# ? Nov 19, 2014 06:39 |
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Golf R priced to start at 36500. http://autoblog.com/2014/11/19/2015-vw-golf-r-pricing-official Looks like a pretty healthy competitor to the STi
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# ? Nov 19, 2014 16:21 |
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drizzle posted:Golf R priced to start at 36500. Except it won't be made out of tin foil and sound like an air cooled vw with a bad cylinder. Glad to finally start seeing some info coming out. I wonder if that price is for the DSG (which is the only way to get it for the first few months QQ). Also, hold the loving phone. Is this going to actually happen? http://www.autoblog.com/2014/11/18/volkswagen-golf-r-variant-official/ I'd love an actual R wagon, not R-line, but an actual awd 290hp wagon.
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# ? Nov 20, 2014 20:14 |
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veedubfreak posted:Also, hold the loving phone. Is this going to actually happen? http://www.autoblog.com/2014/11/18/volkswagen-golf-r-variant-official/ I'd love an actual R wagon, not R-line, but an actual awd 290hp wagon. So....its basically the VW arm version of the Audi RS2?
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# ? Nov 20, 2014 20:30 |
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veedubfreak posted:Except it won't be made out of tin foil and sound like an air cooled vw with a bad cylinder. Not in the US so far, and only comes with a DSG. Looks hot as hell though.
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# ? Nov 20, 2014 21:23 |
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KakerMix posted:Not in the US so far, and only comes with a DSG. Looks hot as hell though. Ya, we never get the cool stuff. What are the odds of the R400 coming here and still being under 50,000?
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# ? Nov 20, 2014 21:51 |
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veedubfreak posted:Ya, we never get the cool stuff. What are the odds of the R400 coming here and still being under 50,000? I'd say zero. I'm far from an expert, but I imagine that VW will sell that Golf R Longroof before we get the R400 here in the states. If it did come here I'd also expect it to be closer to 60k rather than 50k.
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# ? Nov 20, 2014 22:22 |
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KakerMix posted:I'd say zero. I'm far from an expert, but I imagine that VW will sell that Golf R Longroof before we get the R400 here in the states. If it did come here I'd also expect it to be closer to 60k rather than 50k. Golf R Longroof sounds like a great name for it too.
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# ? Nov 20, 2014 23:43 |
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I posted this in the stupid questions thread but maybe it's better here. Anyone care to comment on an 2004 Audi A4 with 133,000 for 7k? It seems like a beautiful car in good condition for the price but I'm nervous the cost of maintenance will be too high. I definitely cannot afford to spend 3k year on upkeep or whatever. He has had a few things done that should make it good to go for some time (air suspension done at 115400 miles, head gasket replaced at 94500 miles, timing belt with waterpump done at 98600 miles) but I don't want to buy a car Im going to need to work on constantly a year or two down the road. Any advice?
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# ? Nov 21, 2014 02:26 |
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hobbez posted:I posted this in the stupid questions thread but maybe it's better here. Manual or Auto?
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# ? Nov 21, 2014 02:40 |
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Auto
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# ? Nov 21, 2014 02:46 |
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hobbez posted:Auto That would be my biggest worry.
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# ? Nov 21, 2014 03:03 |
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So I finally got a new DD and she is a beauty! http://imgur.com/4wskbgQ It was £300 quid and its the straightest body for a car that age I have ever seen (not including valuable cars!) The interior is the beige cloth monstrosity but for that money I am not complaining. The alloys look crap and I think the Mk4 ones will fit, am I right? Not a spot of rust and almost everything works. Just the interior light, and there is a short for the lighting behind the heater controls. Sometimes it works and sometimes not. Probably don't want to remove the whole dash to track it down though. Oh and the PO didn't include the radio faceplate, will i need an adapter for my regular headunit? Last VW I had was a T25 camper so this is plush inside
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# ? Nov 21, 2014 11:12 |
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So how about the MK7 Golf TDI going back to twist beam axle in the rear for the US market because the new MQB platform apparently puts the urea tank where the rear suspension goes? Seems like a pretty VW thing to do.
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 12:01 |
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Here again with the 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8L Turbo So I was driving down the highway and realized my windshield was dirty. so I sprayed it. When I got to my destination, "What the hell happened to my bumper?" One of those little squares flew off. Asked my father, Apparently they come up to spray my lights. 1. What is the best place to find a replacement? 2. How the hell do I turn that bullshit off?
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 17:03 |
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Ezekial posted:Here again with the 2004 Audi A4 Quattro 1.8L Turbo With a vag-com maybe? Otherwise the lights should only be sprayed when the lights are on.
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 18:23 |
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Throatwarbler posted:So how about the MK7 Golf TDI going back to twist beam axle in the rear for the US market because the new MQB platform apparently puts the urea tank where the rear suspension goes? Seems like a pretty VW thing to do. I'm surprised they went back to urea, maybe the DPF failures were too common? or the parts are too expensive?
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 18:25 |
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BraveUlysses posted:I'm surprised they went back to urea, maybe the DPF failures were too common? or the parts are too expensive? I just can't believe there isn't anywhere else they can put it to not have to design the loving suspension around it.
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 19:11 |
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fknlo posted:I just can't believe there isn't anywhere else they can put it to not have to design the loving suspension around it. One of the guys at work just got a diesel cruz, they removed the spare tire to put the urea tank. So it could be worse. I would also assume that the suspension is cheaper this way, along with bringing up mpg by using urea. The regen on my TDI tends to eat about 4-5mpg per tank.
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 19:20 |
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BraveUlysses posted:I'm surprised they went back to urea, maybe the DPF failures were too common? or the parts are too expensive? It probably has both
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# ? Nov 24, 2014 19:36 |
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I live in Madison, wi where they don't believe in salting roads because it might kill fish in the lake. I have a 2010 gti whose tires aren't keeping up with the snow. I drive 5000 miles/year and only plan on keeping this car until 2017. Are continental dws tires my best bet?
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# ? Nov 25, 2014 02:29 |
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Those are alright in light snow, I haven't taken them on out in a blizzard. I got some Dunlop Winter Sport 3D's (seems like the 4Ds are the replacements for those) and they are great in the winter, but you have to have juggle two sets of wheels.
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# ? Nov 25, 2014 02:46 |
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Residency Evil posted:I live in Madison, wi where they don't believe in salting roads because it might kill fish in the lake. I have a 2010 gti whose tires aren't keeping up with the snow. I drive 5000 miles/year and only plan on keeping this car until 2017. Are continental dws tires my best bet? I ran those for 2 years in the snow (still on them but only in nice weather). They're decent in the snow, but after 2 seasons on them I went back to a dedicated winter tire.
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# ? Nov 26, 2014 22:32 |
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The CEL on my 2009 Rabbit (160k) came on and I pulled codes for the knock sensor and MAP sensor. I looked around and replacing them seems a little out of my comfort zone. What would be a fair ballpark price for a shop to charge?
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 01:37 |
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Can anyone give me an overview on worst case scenario for a blown headgasket on a vr6? Is the headgasket+labor+possible head resurface the extent of it?
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 02:23 |
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Sound posted:Can anyone give me an overview on worst case scenario for a blown headgasket on a vr6? Is the headgasket+labor+possible head resurface the extent of it? The worst case scenario is you overheated it or the oil is so contaminated with coolant that the bearings are trashed along with everything else and it's not economically viable to even attempt to repair the motor and it just needs to be swapped. That's not at all likely, even without more information from you. But if you want the worst case, it's definitely "new motor".
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 02:49 |
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Motronic posted:The worst case scenario is you overheated it or the oil is so contaminated with coolant that the bearings are trashed along with everything else and it's not economically viable to even attempt to repair the motor and it just needs to be swapped. I would assume worst case = rebuild the motor to take more boost.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 02:55 |
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veedubfreak posted:I would assume worst case = rebuild the motor to take more boost. "Rebuild" for any purpose is often not a financially reasonable option on terribly overheated or water-lubricated motors when there are many in the salvage yard to choose from. That's the point I was getting at.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 03:02 |
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Motronic posted:The worst case scenario is you overheated it or the oil is so contaminated with coolant that the bearings are trashed along with everything else and it's not economically viable to even attempt to repair the motor and it just needs to be swapped. Headgasket blew on the highway, engine still runs. Coolant system was pressurized and blew a coolant hose. It's a car I am considering buying, and now it is at a $9k discount. What can I ask to determine the likelihood of further damage?
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 04:54 |
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I'm likely asking for some advice in an area which probably nobody has any expertise, but here goes anyway. I have a 2000 C5 Audi A6 (2.7T qm if that matters) that is leaking a non-trivial amount of water to the inside. I live in Washington, so water intrusion is a constant problem. The main problem is, I look online and everybody tells me to check for water dribbling down into the front passenger foot well, which originates from either the drainage tray under the battery in the cowl or from clogged sunroof drains. I had this problem, cleaned out my sunroof drains and checked under the battery: that problem went away, but another remains. Now, my leak is into the rear passenger footwell, coming directly out of the vent which directs air to the rear passenger's feet. This leak has been "impressive", as I currently have literally standing water above the carpet. I sop it up every time I drive, but there has to be a reason and a solution to this flood. I am not loosing any coolant, which was my first thought, and the Bentley manual does not provide much insight into why the leak would be coming through the rear passenger foot vent, only suggestions to clean out the sunroof drains which I already have. The only other symptom I have is that both the driver's and passenger's front seatbelts are slightly damp after a heavy rain. I'm thinking since the seatbelts are held in the B pillar, directly below which on the inside are the foot vents, maybe they are connected?? On a nice day, I've sat inside which a roommate douses the car with a hose, and nothing seems to happen, so I'm at a complete loss.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 07:02 |
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Sound posted:Headgasket blew on the highway, engine still runs. Coolant system was pressurized and blew a coolant hose. You need a partial teardown to know if there is more damage. Coolant exhaust gas tests and leak down tests can only tell you what's getting where, not WHY. While a head gasket is a likely cause it can be a cracked head, cracked block, or the head could have gotten hot enough that it will turn into a pretzel when it's removed rendering it useless. What was this thing priced at to begin with and exactly what is it? It may be financially reasonable to repair with a motor swap at the right price, it may not be. But you should assume it's a motor swap and be pleasantly surprised if it's less than that.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 17:10 |
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Motronic posted:You need a partial teardown to know if there is more damage. It's a b5 s4 avant with a built vr6 swap, turbo pushing 30 psi, lots of other custom work. Original price was around $25k. The owner was driving it to me, said it blew the hg at part throttle and he shut it down immediately. I am out of town until Saturday so I have some time to consider it. Typically I would walk away, but part of the deal was a trade for my current car, which would be a major PITA to sell, especially for what it is worth in this particular trade.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 18:43 |
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Yeah. Run away. It's a basket case of PO fuckery that he's trying to unload on you.
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# ? Nov 27, 2014 18:50 |
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My one rear window seems to have switched polarity in the window switches. Up is now down and down is now up. Happens with the key in the door lock trick too. All the rest of the windows will go down and that one will go up and the other way round too. 2007 gti Anybody else ever seen anything like that?
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# ? Dec 2, 2014 20:36 |
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Thumposaurus posted:My one rear window seems to have switched polarity in the window switches. Does it work all the time or only intermittantly? My map lights were doing something similar; a small screw had come loose and was shorting it out.
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 16:15 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 13:12 |
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Thumposaurus posted:
Does the window do anything funky like go halfway up then down again? I know the scissor style window regulators that older VWs had could get bound up and skip some teeth on the window motor to regulator gearset which would cause strange things like that, but I thought they all had slider and cable style regulators now I had a thing where one of the windows would only go halfway down and auto up/down wouldn't work at all, something about the window forgetting how far up and down it can go. Making the computer or whatever re-learn how to do windows worked for me. Try this: All windows up Disconnect the battery for a few minutes Connect battery, get in car, ignition on With each window individually, roll all the way down, wait a second, roll all the way up. Repeat with each window (and sunroof if you have it)
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# ? Dec 3, 2014 22:22 |