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Commissar Canuck posted:Thanks Slimnoid for the gloss/wash advice, I'll pick up a can of Krylon this weekend. As far as the Future stuff goes, I was reading around that they changed the formula and it's not as good as it once was for covering minis/models? And thanks Bulbasaur for the links to your guides (holy poo poo that vindicator looks fantastic!) I've only used it for two years but I've had zero problems with it as my gloss varnish, so YMMV.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 02:46 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 17:42 |
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Commissar Canuck posted:As far as the Future stuff goes, I was reading around that they changed the formula and it's not as good as it once was for covering minis/models? I've been using Pledge Floor Care (the rebranded Future stuff) to gloss-coat minis since late last year, and haven't had a single issue with it yet. Just in case, this is the stuff you want (at least, in the USA anyways, I know it may be called different things in other countries):
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 03:59 |
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Not mine; but awesome anyways. I know the base models are the 40k base set cultists; but does anyone know where the helmets are from? Can they be bought or are they conversions? More here
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 09:30 |
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The hell? Robo from Chrono Trigger cultists? That's so weird. And awesome.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 11:17 |
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ijyt posted:Element Games has some. Sweet. Thank you. Just ordered a ton of bases. That site is incredibly well priced for supplies!
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 14:23 |
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Does anyone have a good tutorial on painting Polynesian/Pacific Islander skin tones?
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 14:35 |
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Pierzak posted:3. dremel or modeling knife (depends if they're the little circles or full-sized bases), cut them off entirely, glue onto laser-cut transparent plexi hexes of appropriate size. You want to do it after varnishing and use appropriate glue that won't frost the base. I'm having difficulty shopping for an appropriate cutting tool and I have a clarification question My options for cutting are basically saw, dremel, knife, or snips. Will a jewelry saw cut without removing much material? And do you mean to cut the bases off after varnishing or just glue after varnishing?
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 14:36 |
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signalnoise posted:My options for cutting are basically saw, dremel, knife, or snips. Will a jewelry saw cut without removing much material? And do you mean to cut the bases off after varnishing or just glue after varnishing? And I meant glue after varnishing. Matte varnish will be hell on clear acrylic bases. Sulecrist posted:Does anyone have a good tutorial on painting Polynesian/Pacific Islander skin tones? http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1310-ethnic-skintones
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 14:41 |
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Good to know on the Future/Pledge Floor Care stuff! Two more quick questions about it, though. Do you thin it with anything beforehand (and if so, with what) and do you do anything special cleanup-wise to avoid any little bits left over hardening in the airbrush?
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 14:46 |
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Pierzak posted:You probably know this, but: I haven't seen this before, thank you. This will definitely come in handy.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 14:47 |
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Commissar Canuck posted:Good to know on the Future/Pledge Floor Care stuff! Two more quick questions about it, though. Do you thin it with anything beforehand (and if so, with what) and do you do anything special cleanup-wise to avoid any little bits left over hardening in the airbrush? I don't thin it for when I use it as a gloss. However, you can cut it 50/50 with water and it makes for a good thinner, which is handy when you're mixing your own paints. I've found no need to do anything special for cleaning up my airbrush after I use Future; it's so thin it's practically water anyway. Just clean up like you would anything else and you ought to be fine.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 15:00 |
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XPost from the Oath thread. Really enjoyed doing the freehand, I really need to do it more often.Zark the Damned posted:Oath Complete! Also, is Testor's Dullcote still considered a decent varnish for minis? Just found out recently that Antenocitis Workshop sells it and was thinking about trying some out - http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/testors-dullcote-spray.html
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 16:51 |
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Its cross-posting time! The Martians are coming! Only the brave but horribly outgunned soldiers of the American Army can stop them! the Journal is the struck through tripod and the badly painted tally marks - although that may be an exaggeration, what with US survivability rates against the Martians.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 18:02 |
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Slimnoid posted:I don't thin it for when I use it as a gloss. However, you can cut it 50/50 with water and it makes for a good thinner, which is handy when you're mixing your own paints. This right here, though I will add that you should use distilled water, if you're planning on storing your mixed paints afterwards. I usually decant paints out of jars with lids into dropper bottles (such as the P3 paints I own), and to that I'll add a bit of Future/distilled water mix to pre-thin 'em a bit. You can also use Future to make your own washes from paints/inks, as well. It's basically just clear acrylic medium, so it acts as a bit of a binding agent to help keep pigments together, when the paint or ink is thinned down. Basically Future really has a ton of uses for mini painters/model makers in general.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 18:34 |
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I have this: Would I be able to use this in the same way as an oil wash? (Gloss varnish, dab it on, clean with enamel thinner, dull coat, etc.) It is enamel based.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 18:55 |
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PyroDwarf posted:I have this: I don't see why not, but I'd rest it out on some junk piece first. You don't want to try it out on something only to end up being total garbage and then have to strip the whole thing.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 18:56 |
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This is rad
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 19:18 |
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MasterSlowPoke posted:That would be great, thanks! The sand is this stuff by Busch The rocks are plaster casts from Woodland Scenics molds that are then washed with Vallejo Panzer Aces Yellowish Rust(303), Light Rust(301) und Dark Rust(302) in that order.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 19:21 |
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El Estrago Bonito posted:That one huge mustache guy is so common in historical Brit ranges for the time period that I'm 99% sure he has to be in an Osprey uniform book somewhere since that's usually the source of one random guy showing up in multiple ranges and scales. Far as I know it's actually a traditional British Army NCO's style.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 20:00 |
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PyroDwarf posted:I have this: Sort of, what you have there is for doing pin washes, it's done very similarly and produces a very similar effect.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 21:27 |
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Sydney Bottocks posted:This right here, though I will add that you should use distilled water, if you're planning on storing your mixed paints afterwards. I usually decant paints out of jars with lids into dropper bottles (such as the P3 paints I own), and to that I'll add a bit of Future/distilled water mix to pre-thin 'em a bit. It can also be used to glue canopies and other transparent parts without any frosting or similar.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 21:48 |
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big_g posted:It can also be used to glue canopies and other transparent parts without any frosting or similar. Thank you so much. I had no idea and was going to superglue on my first Storm Talon canopy tonight.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 22:00 |
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PantsOptional posted:Thank you so much. I had no idea and was going to superglue on my first Storm Talon canopy tonight. I'm talking from the perspective of historical scale models, bare in mind. That will sit in a case for most of their life, it does stick well but you may want some of this http://www.totemhobbies.co.uk/product/zap-canopy-glue-2oz#.VMv9Hy6fWUk for heavy use wargaming figures. But absolutely don't use superglue! I would personally try the future first and if it gets loose get some canopy glue.
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# ? Jan 30, 2015 22:56 |
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I'm lead to believe that if you apply a coat of Future over clear plastic like the canopy or flying stand rods, it will give it a protective coat that'll prevent the usual 'frosting' that happens due to the super glue. Not sure where I read that from though. Haven't tried it myself.
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# ? Jan 31, 2015 00:28 |
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Slimnoid posted:I'm lead to believe that if you apply a coat of Future over clear plastic like the canopy or flying stand rods, it will give it a protective coat that'll prevent the usual 'frosting' that happens due to the super glue. It's a nice technique to dip all your transparent parts in future anyway. It gives a lovely gloss sheen to the clear parts and protects as well. Give them a spray and a good wipe down with windoleen and then dip then with tweezers and leave them to dry and cure for a couple of days preferably under some form of cover to protect against dust and you have sexy sexy glass.
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# ? Jan 31, 2015 00:41 |
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Slimnoid posted:I don't see why not, but I'd rest it out on some junk piece first. You don't want to try it out on something only to end up being total garbage and then have to strip the whole thing. El Estrago Bonito posted:Sort of, what you have there is for doing pin washes, it's done very similarly and produces a very similar effect. Thanks!
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# ? Jan 31, 2015 00:55 |
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I've been using Pledge Floor Care (the rebranded Future stuff) to gloss-coat minis since late last year, and haven't had a single issue with it yet. I think they changed the labeling, because I looked all over for a bottle the past few weeks and couldn't find any Pledge bottles with galoshes. So I ordered it from Amazon and got Pretty sure (hoping) it's the same stuff. Can this stuff repair clear plastic? I recall reading about using Future to repair scratches or cracks in canopies. I have a clear plastic display case with some scratches and scuffs that I'm hoping I can fix.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 02:19 |
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Cthulu Carl posted:I think they changed the labeling, because I looked all over for a bottle the past few weeks and couldn't find any Pledge bottles with galoshes. So I ordered it from Amazon and got The name on the bottle in the pic you posted looks identical to the name in the pic I posted, so I think you should be OK.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 08:13 |
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2nd attempt at freehand, getting there.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 10:10 |
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Pretty sure you're already there.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 12:04 |
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Is the skirt freehand?
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 13:10 |
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ijyt posted:Pretty sure you're already there. Yeah Jesus dude, wish I was" getting there".
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 14:01 |
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What's the goon-recommended plastic glue (looking for strong & fast joint)? It's for new Malifaux minis if it makes a difference.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 15:42 |
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Revell Contacta Professional has never failed me.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 15:47 |
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Pierzak posted:What's the goon-recommended plastic glue (looking for strong & fast joint)? It's for new Malifaux minis if it makes a difference. Good ol' Testors in the black ... "Bottle" with the fine metal needle tip. Model glue bonds the plastic together by melting so it's the strongest bond you can get with it. You have to be careful not to use too much. You can get liquid brush-on glue which sets faster and is good for thin edges due to capillary action as well. Having said that I don't know what kind of plastic those minis are made of so I can't say polystyrene cement is good for those particular models. If it's not styrene plastic you may have to go with a CA glue. If you do, I actually really like the Gorilla Glue Cyanoacrylate glue and you can get it in any DIY store. Testors: http://www.amazon.com/Testor-Corp-Liquid-Cement-Plastics/dp/B0006N6ODS Gorilla glue: http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-7805001-15g-Super-Glue/dp/B001IY82FM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422802579&sr=8-1&keywords=Gorilla+glue+ca The advantage hobby CA glue has is that they come in various viscosities and the GG one doesn't. Otherwise it's just as good and it has a nice anti-clog applicator. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:58 on Feb 1, 2015 |
# ? Feb 1, 2015 15:50 |
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I like SCIGRIP 16 in a squeeze bottle for my plastic melting needs.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 16:00 |
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Any recommendations on achieving the purpleish skin tone you see on stuff like this (tumbnailed, maybe NWS) Kings of War figure? I'm thinking maybe khaki with a purple wash and beige highlights? I tried starting with dark purple and working up to off-white, but my vampire guy just looks like a smurf.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 16:32 |
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Cthulu Carl posted:I think they changed the labeling, because I looked all over for a bottle the past few weeks and couldn't find any Pledge bottles with galoshes. So I ordered it from Amazon and got It's exactly the same stuff.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 16:36 |
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big_g posted:It's exactly the same stuff. I wish they'd stop changing the label that is at least the third one in as many years.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 16:39 |
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# ? Apr 27, 2024 17:42 |
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I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement with the brush applicator, I've found it to be less of a hassle than needle applicators due to blockages.
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# ? Feb 1, 2015 16:40 |