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Slavvy posted:That isn't how you judge if they're hosed. You need to have the car assembled with the outer tierod etc hooked up and a wheel on. Then you wiggle the wheel gently side to side and feel for play. If there's play there, you put your hand on the ball joint (or get a friend to watch) and see if the movement is in the ball joint or not. If it isn't, pull back the steering boot and see visually if there's play at the inner. It's impossible to tell if they have play when there's no load or leverage; pulling on it directly shows you nothing unless they're really, really hosed. Ok I will give that a shot thanks!
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May 17, 2015 13:26
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JacquelineDempsey posted:"Just curious" side note: I've never driven without power steering before, and holy poo poo did I have to haul on that wheel to do the hard right back into the driveway. Is that what driving an old, non-power car is like? I can't speak authoritatively on the other stuff, but as for this one: usually older vehicles that don't have power steering will have more mechanical advantage (i.e. you have to turn the steering wheel more turns to get the wheels to move the same amount), as well as a larger diameter steering wheel. My truck has no power steering, and, while not effortless, I can parallel park it without killing myself from exertion. Once moving, it's hardly even noticeable I think.
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May 17, 2015 13:29
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My original problem was audio stuttering. It only happens when my phone is plugged in. I suspect it's because the phone and car are trying to talk to each other and but not able to, so they're stuck. I tried a usb condom, which works for a few minutes before the car screen throws an error and the phone stops charging. So I either need a way to tell the car "stop trying to connect to this phone" or the phone "stop trying to connect to this car".
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May 17, 2015 14:14
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Is there some reason you aren't using a cig lighter to usb adapter and charging from that?
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May 17, 2015 15:00
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Buy a cheap cigarette lighter power adapter, and forget the factory USB port exists. Honda's Bluetooth and USB integration is pretty poor anyway.
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May 17, 2015 15:01
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Motronic posted:Is there some reason you aren't using a cig lighter to usb adapter and charging from that? No that's a good next step, kind of wanted to use what I had without buying buying something else. IOwnCalculus posted:Buy a cheap cigarette lighter power adapter, and forget the factory USB port exists. Honda's Bluetooth and USB integration is pretty poor anyway. I'm still kinda pissed that the Hondalink app is only for iOS because that would solve all my problems Elendil004 fucked around with this message at 16:16 on May 17, 2015 |
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May 17, 2015 15:38
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Regarding my tie rod questions on the last page, I replaced my outer tie rods since it was easy and I wanted to rule them out. Mounted everything up and tested for play by yanking on the wheels with a hand on the 3 and 9. No play whatsoever, seems butter smooth when I turn the wheels by hand. So I am going to leave the inners alone for now, which is nice because I am not sure I could replace them without destroying the boots. The boot clamp on the inside is buried inside the subframe to the point of absurdity. I guess when I do the job down the road I will buy a couple of extra boots  Thanks for the help, I read this thread religiously and almost everything I post about is the first time I am blundering my way through that thing...so I really appreciate the advice a ton. Now off to Pep Boys, to see if they can fit me in for a quick alignment!
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May 17, 2015 16:27
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Elendil004 posted:
Won't fix the ~2sec lag in the Bluetooth subsystem, though. It makes OK Google / Siri completely broken.
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May 17, 2015 16:50
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Elendil004 posted:I do, but I'm not sure what I'd be looking for. An "amp" setting. Cheaper meters don't always have them, I guess.
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May 17, 2015 17:34
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Just dropped a bolt for my belt tensioner into my engine bay, drat thing is nowhere to be found. The space between the side of the bay and the pulleys is hilariously tight, and no amount of flailing around with my telescopic magnet from above or below is coming up with anything. Not really a question, unless I am asking for moral support in my time of need. Rough weekend for
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May 17, 2015 18:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:Won't fix the ~2sec lag in the Bluetooth subsystem, though. It makes OK Google / Siri completely broken. I just want Google maps on the dash instead of my lap
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May 17, 2015 19:22
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PaintVagrant posted:Just dropped a bolt for my belt tensioner into my engine bay, drat thing is nowhere to be found. The space between the side of the bay and the pulleys is hilariously tight, and no amount of flailing around with my telescopic magnet from above or below is coming up with anything. Your AV is amazing btw.
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May 17, 2015 19:46
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Slavvy posted:Your AV is amazing btw. Hellbeard does excellent work :]
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May 17, 2015 20:31
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Holy poo poo, every time I've looked at it, it was after the splat. I didn't even realize it was animated. That is awesome.
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May 17, 2015 20:57
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JacquelineDempsey posted:Fuuuuck. I'm unemployed, broke, and finally got a temp gig on Thursday --- that's not on a bus line, and 20 miles away. As they say, if it wasn't for bad luck I'd have no luck at all. I'm hoping Safety Dance is on the money, bc the fluid's not all over the place, very specific drip from under the front passenger seat side. Though I think that's where the pump is, so... fingers crossed. I know up until very recently, Kia offered factory service manuals for free online if you registered on a specific website. I'm sure if you get a little creative with Google, you can track one down. Slavvy might be able to help too, since he used to be a Kia/Hyundai tech. (sorry to toss you under the bus Slavvy) As long as the pump doesn't run dry, you're fine doing what you've described. It's not going to kill the pump immediately on the spot if it does run dry, but running it dry is basically like a few years worth of wear at once. I didn't mean to scare you away from troubleshooting; as long as it has fluid the pump will be fine. Just try not to let it run dry, and if it does run dry, shut the car off as soon as it's safe to do so (so if it starts making noise at highway speeds, look for an exit or shoulder that gets you away from traffic). And I hear you on the power steering; I've driven cars without power steering before, and I've also driven cars with failed power steering. The cars that didn't have power steering from the factory weren't bad to deal with (as mentioned, they usually require moving the wheel a lot more, and usually have a larger steering wheel), while driving a car that has failed power steering ranges from "annoying" to "put all of your weight on the wheel to change lanes". The worst is definitely the car I own now, when the power steering crapped out I could barely get it into a parking space in a parking lot. It was hilarious watching me try to park it in my driveway (very narrow alley, driveway barely wide enough for 2 cars, with a fence on one side and a family member's car on the other). So near the front passenger seat, and it's dripping, not spraying? I'm taking a stab in the dark just based on what I've seen with other makes (I've never owned a Hyundai/Kia, so I may be hilariously wrong), but I'm going to guess that it's either going to be the steering rack itself, or a return line. The rack is generally behind the engine and close to the firewall. The return line is sometimes made up of multiple pieces of steel and rubber lines, but it starts at the steering rack, then usually makes a detour to the front of the car to place a piece of itself in front of the radiator for cooling. I'm hoping it's a return line, or better yet, a section of return line that's easy to replace. If it starts spraying when you turn the wheel, it's probably a high pressure line. Best of luck to you, I've had to do the jobless/broken car/no public transit dance before. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:29 on May 18, 2015 |
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May 18, 2015 03:16
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More anecdotes, I've driven an old truck or two as well as my uncle's 66 Mustang with no power steering, not really even noticable aside from the really slow steering gear. I've had belts fail on both the Protege and my old Taurus, and let me tell you, those things were absolute bears to drive at low speed. I'm a decent sized guy and I still had to haul on the wheel pretty hard to park them. Actually, in addition to the gearing, modern cars tend to run a lot more caster angle and steering axis inclination, which basically means you're lifting the front of the car up every time you turn the wheel. It's only fractions of an inch and you don't really notice it at all with power steering (which generally is more powerful at low speeds in modern cars for this very reason), but it probably makes driving them without power all the more difficult compared to older cars with more vertical angles.
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May 18, 2015 04:53
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Newer cars also have much smaller steering wheels, so you have a lot less leverage than on an old 16" steering wheel.
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May 18, 2015 06:08
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some texas redneck posted:I know up until very recently, Kia offered factory service manuals for free online if you registered on a specific website. I'm sure if you get a little creative with Google, you can track one down. Slavvy might be able to help too, since he used to be a Kia/Hyundai tech. (sorry to toss you under the bus Slavvy) Everything I could say on the matter has pretty much already been covered by yourself and other people, aside from: those cars are a gigantic stack of poo poo built right at the very tail end of kia's 'lets just make gigantic stacks of poo poo instead of cars' era and you should do your best to get rid of it asap.
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May 18, 2015 07:20
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Enourmo posted:More anecdotes, I've driven an old truck or two as well as my uncle's 66 Mustang with no power steering, not really even noticable aside from the really slow steering gear. My first car was a little red 85 MR2 that was effortless at all speeds without power steering. I found myself preferring the overall feel of a car without power steering. I drove my dads old 94 Isuzu pup for a bit when I was between cars and it was a nightmare at low speeds though. Godholio posted:Newer cars also have much smaller steering wheels, so you have a lot less leverage than on an old 16" steering wheel. I had an accessory belt go out on an F450 ambulance (15k curb weight, thereabouts) and it was an absolute bear to get into a parking lot for towing.
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May 18, 2015 19:33
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Goddamn I love electrical issues! Okay goons, let's see what y'all can do: The car: 1993 Dodge Dynasty. Base model. When I first purchased this car, everything was working fine. Fast forward about two weeks, and the heater now works intermittently (and randomly - it ignores the dash controls completely), the dash lights/parking lamps/tail lights have all gone out and, although they're all on the same fuse, the fuse is not blown. Just last night, I'm driving, and the battery starts slowly draining. Very, very slowly - I drove about 150 miles with the headlights on without issue until the last 5 miles or so. I get the car home and the battery dies completely. However, the real kicker is that the car actually started after I let it sit for about 15 minutes. After starting it once, it doesn't have enough charge to start again, but wait 15 minutes and it'll fire right up. Wtf? I had my battery tested and I was told it was good. Oddly enough, I have a "Module Power" fuse (position 13) that's drawing a constant, small amount of power. How much, I'm not sure, but I removed the fuse, started the car, and the power drain is still happening... but only when the car is running. Doesn't seem to be draining while sitting off. Between every last one of my 5 cars needing new alternators within a week of me purchasing them, I'm about to just  and ride a loving bus. At least a bad alternator has predictable symptoms. I don't even know what to make of this poo poo.Any suggestions goons? 
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May 18, 2015 19:39
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root beer posted:Goddamn I love electrical issues! Okay goons, let's see what y'all can do: The lights bit I'd suspect the headlight switch. All those things run through there. I don't really know anything about the Dynasty, but I'd see if I could get my hands on a used part to swap it with to see. If it's not that, perhaps the wiring that feeds the switch? But switches are a more common failure. On the power drain, you'll have to trace the wiring for that one fuse and see what it is. Maybe a lovely aftermarket immobilizer/alarm/remote start/radio/etc? If you've got any of those things, they tend to be installed terribly by previous owners. Good place to start for parasitic drains.
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May 18, 2015 19:58
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I need some new headlights. Halogens, not HIDs. Slidebite suggested osram Nightbreakers. Any other suggestions for particularly, far-shining bulbs? I'm a small car, so I'm not too worried about blinding people. But at least I'm not one of those people that puts HIDs on their lifted truck and then forgets to turn,off their high beams. We get a lot of those.
22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 01:58 on May 19, 2015 |
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May 18, 2015 20:42
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22 Eargesplitten posted:I need some new headlights. Halogens, not HIDs. Slidebite suggested Parang Nightbreakers. Any other suggestions for particularly, far-shining bulbs? I'm a small car, so I'm not too worried about blinding people. But at least I'm not one of those people that puts HIDs on their lifted truck and then forgets to turn,off their high beams. We get a lot of those. Sylvania for me.
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May 18, 2015 23:57
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VelociBacon posted:Sylvania for me. I'm holding off on their stuff for a while, they just got rocked by a class action lawsuit over their false claims for headlights. Turns out that tinting your bulbs blue makes the light shine whiter, which makes you think it's brighter. But in reality, you have tinted bulbs so of course they're dimmer.
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May 19, 2015 03:55
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PaintVagrant posted:Ok I will give that a shot thanks! Update on this: after not feeling any play in the tie rods, I took the car in to get aligned, and they were able to align it with no issues. They said the inner tie rods are fine. Bums me out, because the original shop was totally BSing me, or misdiagnosed it pretty badly. Either way, probably not going back. Next project, loving AC issues. Sigh.
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May 19, 2015 03:58
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You said you did the outers while you had the wheels off, right? Maybe one of them was loose and they just diagnosed the wrong end.
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May 19, 2015 04:17
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some texas redneck posted:awesome effort post Thanks so much! So when I went out yesterday to try to better assess the leak, the reservoir was totally empty.  It's been low in the past, well below min, but never just empty. Filled it back up, turned her on, and did my best to get underneath. She's now gone from drip-drip-drip to straight up pissing from two spots, that seem a little more central than passenger side. Ran her for all of 15-20 seconds before shutting her off in a panic over all the fluid draining onto my driveway, and when I looked back under the hood, the reservoir was empty again. This does not bode well. I'd need to get her up on ramps to get a better look, I really can't see poo poo (especially when the ground's soaking wet from 2 days of thunderstorms, I was getting eaten alive by mosquitos, and quickly became terrified I was gonna run the pump dry and have it explode or something). I have a great mechanic just over a mile away, but at this point I don't think having her leave my cul-de-sac without a tow sounds like a good idea. And between this, the fact that her evap canister has been held up solely with one of my MacGuyver-style fixes (some aluminum pipe, bungee, and duct tape) after that support rusted out, and Slavvy's opinion on her overall worthiness... might be time to start shopping around. Anyways, thanks again for everyone's advice, as well as explaining power vs non-power steering; I feel less like I was a weak little kitten when it came to trying to crank that wheel with power failure!
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May 19, 2015 08:50
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Godholio posted:I'm holding off on their stuff for a while, they just got rocked by a class action lawsuit over their false claims for headlights. Turns out that tinting your bulbs blue makes the light shine whiter, which makes you think it's brighter. But in reality, you have tinted bulbs so of course they're dimmer. I was woefully disappointed in the lifespan of their silver Star ultra lamps, but I find their standard level stuff to be perfectly adequate.
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May 19, 2015 14:52
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Yeah, I should probably add that to my criteria. I have auto-off headlights, so I end up running mine during the day pretty often. And that's not counting that I turn them on whenever it gets overcast so people can see me more easily. So long-lasting is important to me, but I really don't give a drat about white light. I found a consumer reports article that says brighter lights don't actually cast their beams any farther. That seems wrong, since intensity is directly related to power at any given distance. But maybe it's just a trick of the eye, where you see whiter, shorter wavelength light as brighter? I don't know. All I know is I had these things for five and a half years, and the PO had them for who knows how long. Probably anything would be better than these. Speaking of light colors, why don't they use red headlights? Is it because tail lights are red, and that would be confusing? Red lights impact your night vision the least.
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May 19, 2015 15:56
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Buddy at work just told me he's buying a 2010 Audi Q5 off-lease. How hard should I be cringing?
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May 19, 2015 16:38
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
If you shine a flashlight so the top edge of the focused beam touches the ground 500 feet away, it doesn't matter how bright the bulb is, because it will still only go 500 feet before hitting the ground.
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May 19, 2015 16:42
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TKIY posted:Buddy at work just told me he's buying a 2010 Audi Q5 off-lease. Why cringe? Because it's not a Miata? If he's your buddy, just stroke his ego and tell him that everyone will be jealous of his German luxobarge. No one wants to hear anything else, they just want validation.
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May 19, 2015 17:02
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TKIY posted:Buddy at work just told me he's buying a 2010 Audi Q5 off-lease.
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May 19, 2015 17:06
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Geirskogul posted:If you shine a flashlight so the top edge of the focused beam touches the ground 500 feet away, it doesn't matter how bright the bulb is, because it will still only go 500 feet before hitting the ground. Is that the range most bulbs have? Because I'm nowhere near that. Or are you talking high beams? Are most beams aimed for the same range, just with different angles depending on the height?
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May 19, 2015 17:12
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2010 Hyundai Accent 3door GS. 40K miles, still in warranty. I got it from a dealer who shockingly didn't try to rip me off at the sale so I've been going to them for service since then, and they've never tried to push anything on me, just always had oil changes with no problems, and one in-warranty repair. They changed management I think because there's all new guys at the service desk -- though it's still the same mechanics. So the last time I went in I supposedly needed brake fluid and power steering fluid replaced because they were "dark and cloudy". My BS meter is going off so I said no. The Internet has varying opinions as to whether these things need changing so I am asking the good SA goons for help. Is this reasonable or should I find someone else?
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May 19, 2015 17:47
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InitialDave posted:I assume no warranty? Not a day's worth. Guy bought out his lease and is doing a private sale.
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May 19, 2015 17:54
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Civic Si 2007 My AC works fine, blows cold air for about 15 minutes of running. It then stops blowing cold air. If I turn it off for a while, it will turn back on and then run about 15 minutes again before the compressor turns off again. Haven't really had time to run all the various diagnostics that the AC megathread suggests. I was taking it into a tire shop for an alignment and I had them check it out. According to them, the relay is good, pressure switch is good, and refrigerant levels are good. They said the compressor has a "short" which is causing it to intermittently turn off, and needs to be replaced for the low low price of about 1000 bux. I still will check all the things they checked, because they aren't an AC shop and I don't trust their diagnosis fully. I will probably have another shop look at it as well. So, my list of stuff to check: refridgerant levels with rented gauges Are fans turning on and off properly when AC is being toggled swap relay again to make sure its not bad check pressure switch? Not sure how to do this but I am sure its in the AC thread or somewhere online Check clutch to see if its disengaging while not running A few questions: I read online about the clutch possibly being shimmed incorrectly, so the clutch is not engaging after it gets hot. A bunch of people in various honda forums have success with removing shims til the spacing is correct again. Is this a super hacky fix? I mean if its a choice between replacing a compressor or removing a shim... If I wanted to replace the entire compressor myself, could I take it to a shop who could remove all of the refrigerant, then I bring it home and do the compressor on my own time, and then bring it back for them to refill? I assume a lot of shops wouldnt play ball, but if I found one that would, am I missing something obvious that would not allow me to do this? Should I have posted this in the AC thread
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May 19, 2015 18:10
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TKIY posted:Not a day's worth. Guy bought out his lease and is doing a private sale. Hahahahahahahaha.
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May 19, 2015 20:01
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Slavvy posted:Hahahahahahahaha. Yeah that's what I thought.
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May 19, 2015 20:25
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TKIY posted:Not a day's worth. Guy bought out his lease and is doing a private sale. It'll have some higher maintenance requirements/bills but it isn't a 1.8t from the early 2000s.
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May 19, 2015 21:48
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