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MrChips posted:It sounds like your battery is basically dead. My brother's wife has the exact same car as you do; when the alternator failed a while ago he limped it over to my place (just barely) on the battery alone. After the repair, we checked the battery and found it to be low but still acceptable. We started the car and it ran exactly as you described; barely idling, but it would be fine if you held a bit of throttle to keep it above 1000 rpm. Going on the highway when the car is stalling seems kind of dangerous. I would probably just buy a battery charger before I do that. I was leaning towards my idle speed control being messed up from the ECU restarting when I unplugged the battery to install the stereo. I tried idling for 10 minutes to get it properly calibrated, but it doesn't seem to have helped. Might be time to take it to a shop to look at my wiring job. Karl Barks fucked around with this message at 18:15 on Jun 7, 2015 |
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Jun 7, 2015 18:11
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Is there anything particularly terrible about the 2007 Ford Five Hundred?
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Jun 7, 2015 20:31
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Detective Thompson posted:Is there anything particularly terrible about the 2007 Ford Five Hundred? As an appliance, it's a fine car. They hold up pretty well. Lots of leg and headroom, feels a little narrow (even though it's not). The 3.0 V/6 gets the job done and other than weak motor mounts is pretty reliable. Digging around online, it looks like folks experience issues with the A/C compressor, and with brake discs. Other than that, it's a good appliance. Steer clear of the AWD models which come CVT only.
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Jun 7, 2015 20:44
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Description says it's an AWD version. What's the issue with the CVT?
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Jun 7, 2015 21:45
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Detective Thompson posted:Description says it's an AWD version. What's the issue with the CVT? It's a CVT  If it has documentation that its fluids were changed every 60000 miles, you should be ok. They only used the CVTs for a couple of years, and only on AWD models. Parts may be problematic if something breaks. The consensus is that this version of the ZF CVT is reasonably reliable -- a lot of people panned them in this application for making the car feel more sluggish than it really was.
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Jun 7, 2015 22:02
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Detective Thompson posted:What's the issue with the CVT? Glacial acceleration, to the point that it's noticeable even if you don't usually drive fast. 0-60 times in the double-digits. Also cost a fortune to repair/replace when they inevitably fail (you're moving your car with belts and pullies.)
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Jun 7, 2015 22:18
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The 500 used a 2nd gen version of the ZF CVT that BMW used in the Mini. It uses a chain instead of a belt. Replacements and repairs are about 2x a normal automatic transmission. And as noted, expect a 0-60 of 10 seconds and a lot of mooing vs forward motion when passing on the highway.
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Jun 7, 2015 22:24
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Did they move away from the CVT a few years later? Because I distinctly recall that when the SHO was rereleased (AWD), it was able to post Camaro SS numbers at the track after just a loving tune. Edit: The more I think about it, the entire drivetrain was probably different by that time.
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Jun 7, 2015 23:13
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Godholio posted:Did they move away from the CVT a few years later? Because I distinctly recall that when the SHO was rereleased (AWD), it was able to post Camaro SS numbers at the track after just a loving tune. Yep - when Ford dumped the 500/Montego monikers, they also dumped the CVT and the Duratec 3.0 v6. The CVT was only a 2005-2007 AWD thing.
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Jun 7, 2015 23:23
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If that CVT goes, you're in for a bad time. A friend of mine has one and it's been in the shop for the CVT for 5 months. Granted, they should have never paid before the work was done, but yeah.
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Jun 7, 2015 23:23
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What's the best method for repainting an (aluminum block)engine? I'm in the middle of a project and have it pulled while I replace seals/gaskets, should I strip/paint while it's pieces or is it better to just wait til everything's bolted back together and then shoot the whole thing at once? I was planning on going with the VHT line of paint, undecided on the color right now though since I have plenty of other things to worry about buying and doing first. I know you need special primers to paint aluminum effectively, are there high-heat ones anybody would recommend over the others?
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Jun 8, 2015 04:55
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Factories painted engine assemblies, not piece-by-piece. Off the top of my head I don't know if I've seen any factory painted aluminum engines, though. They seem to be left unpainted.
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Jun 8, 2015 04:59
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As a general rule with painting it is always better to paint things when they're apart. In the case of a motor you have to be careful with masking obviously with mating surfaces and threads. I think you just have to look for stuff that is specifically rated for high-temp. There are probably actual engine paints out there that you should look into. To be honest I really think you should look at powder coating, it's not that expensive and it's going to last way way longer. You'd be looking at some kind of acid/stripper bath or something to prep the parts for primer/paint.
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Jun 8, 2015 05:32
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VelociBacon posted:As a general rule with painting it is always better to paint things when they're apart. In the case of a motor you have to be careful with masking obviously with mating surfaces and threads. Which is exactly why they were assembled first. And yeah, there's specific engine paint products out there. There's usually one or two manufacturers who specialize in certain colors. Quanta makes a very good Chevy orange, for example.
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Jun 8, 2015 06:49
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Your local auto parts store doesn't have engine enamel?
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Jun 8, 2015 06:52
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[2000 mustang GT, manual, (maybe relevant mod: Bilstein shocks)] When I bought the car, I was pretty happy with how it drove. When I bought new rear tires, I foolishly listened to the dummy at Just Tires and paid for an alignment. This resulted in it driving terribly - it would follow road textures, it understeered terribly, etc. I got it REaligned by a friend, and the before/after readings are below. My question is this - it now needs a front right tie rod end, and I expect that this will require a realignment. Should I specify that I want them to set it back to factory settings, or specifically back to the below (after) settings? I know the below before settings aren't what I want, but I don't know enough to know if the below after settings are better than stock. Most of them seem to be in range with stock and I don't see any reason the one that isn't would provide any real benefit. code:(AFTER is what I like right now, BEFORE is what Just Tires did which I did not like.) Ordinarily, I would take it to the friend to be aligned, but I don't want to ask him to replace the TRE and I don't want to drive it unaligned after it is replaced 50+ miles to get to him. Edit: Oh, and worth pointing out: I don't want to burn up tires because of an extremely aggressive alignment, but I do prefer performance to tire longevity. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 09:06 on Jun 8, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 07:21
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EightBit posted:Your local auto parts store doesn't have engine enamel? Were you asking me, or him? Yeah, my local parts stores have enamel, but just in the boring flat black and Chevy orange matte colors. Great for toolboxes, not so great when you want to make your machine look pretty. I've never heard of powder coating an engine though, I would have assumed there could be big issues with the risk of some powder getting through the masking and setting inside an oil passage or something. This is all for a café racer, so I'm already getting the frame bead-blasted and recoated. Depending on the rates and colors/finishes I can get around here, I may look into a powder coat for the block and head too. I'm all about one-stop shopping when it comes to projects.
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Jun 8, 2015 17:00
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Kilersquirrel posted:Were you asking me, or him? Air cooled? If so, I imagine you'll want to leave the cooling fins unpainted. Feel free to correct me if I'm off-base about this.
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Jun 8, 2015 18:24
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Safety Dance posted:Air cooled? If so, I imagine you'll want to leave the cooling fins unpainted.
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Jun 8, 2015 18:54
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InitialDave posted:The emissiivty of the paint can be worth the minimal insulation a layer of it gives. I wouldn't worry greatly either way, myself. Cooling fins/radiators/intercoolers don't cool by radiation (which emissivity would affect), they cool by convection. Paint color has zero effect on the ability of air to absorb heat from metal, all any color of paint will do is insulate it. It's minor, but it is there. Something to consider depending how much hotter than stock the engine is, if at all. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z_mmmXTbLP0
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Jun 8, 2015 19:34
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Enourmo posted:Cooling fins/radiators/intercoolers don't cool by radiation (which emissivity would affect), they cool by convection. Paint color has zero effect on the ability of air to absorb heat from metal, all any color of paint will do is insulate it. It's minor, but it is there. Something to consider depending how much hotter than stock the engine is, if at all.
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Jun 8, 2015 20:04
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I've got a 2010 Kia Forte. I drive for a living, and therefore listen to a lot of music from my phone on it. 2010 was the last Kia year to NOT include the capability to do music over bluetooth, and on top of that the USB port in it doesn't actually read every single phones, and surprise surprise, iPhone 6 doesn't work at all with it, charging or otherwise. Basically I'm getting sick of having to have two cords running to my phone, one into the aux and one into a power adapter. It's just a minor annoyance, but I'm getting to my breaking point with it. So my question is: Does anyone have a good recommendation for a replacement stereo that is: 1. Not insanely expensive and 2. Can connect to my phone directly via either bluetooth or USB, preferably bluetooth? If it's something sold on Amazon that I can just take in to a dealer/mechanic to have installed that would be fantastic as well. I'm also hoping this will break my curse of every time I buy a new stereo for a car the car then irreparably breaks less than a month later. Thanks!
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Jun 8, 2015 20:53
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What's "insanely expensive"? You can get really basic bluetooth-capable receivers for like $70 even from crutchfield, let alone Amazon or whatever. Mostly price just buys more features/channels/wattage from the built-in amplifier. Crutchfield is pricey, but their support is fantastic and includes everything you need for installation (harness adapter, DIN rack, etc.). Or you can just shop on there, then buy from somewhere cheaper once you figure out what you want. Most mechanics don't do stereo installs and I doubt a dealer would put in an aftermarket one, you'd probably go to a stereo shop or the like, but honestly they're pretty easy to do yourself.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:15
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This may be overly simplistic, but would a 2011+ model head unit (that you imply would have bluetooth) fit?
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Jun 8, 2015 21:22
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TheJoker138 posted:I've got a 2010 Kia Forte. I drive for a living, and therefore listen to a lot of music from my phone on it. 2010 was the last Kia year to NOT include the capability to do music over bluetooth, and on top of that the USB port in it doesn't actually read every single phones, and surprise surprise, iPhone 6 doesn't work at all with it, charging or otherwise. Basically I'm getting sick of having to have two cords running to my phone, one into the aux and one into a power adapter. It's just a minor annoyance, but I'm getting to my breaking point with it. I don't know what you consider insanely expensive, but one of the most popular units on Crutchfield/Amazon is this double din guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MRYHOQU It does BT/Aux/USB and comes with an external mic for hands free calling. I ordered mine and it'll come in tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:44
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I've got a 2011 Honda CR-Z (still under warranty) with two issues - 1. On roughly 1 out of every 15 shifts from neutral to 1st gear, the shifter won't go into gear. My friendly dealership service center is able to replicate the problem, but isn't able to figure out what is causing the issue. 2. In the last month or so, the car's started to make (intermittently) what sounds like a metal rubbing on metal sound when I accelerate from zero. This goes away after a few seconds.
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Jun 8, 2015 21:49
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I'm probably going to call my mechanic for a professional opinion, but could having the brakes on when stationary in a collision cause a clicking in the brakes? Single click, most audible with the window open. Mostly, but not exclusively the first time I brake after I put it in a forward gear.
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Jun 8, 2015 22:06
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Pfox posted:I've got a 2011 Honda CR-Z (still under warranty) with two issues - #2 - long shot, but would you call this a high pitched squeal? If so, it sounds like a misadjusted or stretched accessory belt.
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Jun 8, 2015 22:12
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22 Eargesplitten posted:
Do you only hear the click when starting from a complete stop? You could have a damaged CV joint that's clicking when torque gets applied. Geoj fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 9, 2015 |
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Jun 8, 2015 22:15
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Krakkles posted:#1 is either clutch adjustment or synchros. I'd say the second is more likely. When it happens, does releasing the clutch pedal and redepressing it allow you to select first? 1) It does not; it also occurs whether the pedal is fully depressed or not. There are two solutions - repeatedly forcing the clutch into first until it finally takes, or putting it back in neutral, reving the engine, and then re-engaging the clutch. 2) Not high-pitched, nor really a squeal. More like a low-pitched metal file with no teeth.
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Jun 8, 2015 22:23
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Safety Dance posted:Air cooled? If so, I imagine you'll want to leave the cooling fins unpainted. No, no, liquid-cooled. No way am I going to ride something air-cooled around in Texas. The weather's a bipolar bitch here so it's generally either hot enough to where a traffic jam could make you cook the heads(and your balls), or cold enough to actually impact your combustion. I might wind up leaving the fin edges unpainted/coated and just polish the poo poo out of them though, I always liked that look. But that's just a style question, it has no real effect on cooling rates either.
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Jun 9, 2015 00:33
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Geoj posted:Do you only hear the click when starting from a complete stop? You could have a damaged CV joint that's clicking when torque gets applied. No, but I do get a click when I come off the clutch weird sometimes, not sure if that's similar. It would be cool if both were related, because then I could get rid of the two weird noises my car makes (except for grinding into reverse) on Geico's dime.
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Jun 9, 2015 03:51
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Shere posted:I don't know what you consider insanely expensive, but one of the most popular units on Crutchfield/Amazon is this double din guy: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MRYHOQU Something like this is pretty much exactly what I was looking for. Also I didn't even know crutchfield was a place, and I'm now seriously considering getting a $500 CarPlay stereo, which it never even dawned on me before that I could do. So both thanks, sincerely, and thanks in a horrible, sarcastic way.
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Jun 9, 2015 05:59
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Question: I have an 06 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The left headlight keeps having problems because there is a rubber boot that goes between it and the connector. I think the boot needs replacing as the female connector on the headlight side is jacked and thus it keeps slipping off. However, I don't know what it's called, so I'm having a hard time locating anything online. Any ideas on the name of this?
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Jun 9, 2015 15:41
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Greggorian posted:Question: I have an 06 Suzuki Grand Vitara. The left headlight keeps having problems because there is a rubber boot that goes between it and the connector. I think the boot needs replacing as the female connector on the headlight side is jacked and thus it keeps slipping off. However, I don't know what it's called, so I'm having a hard time locating anything online. Any ideas on the name of this? Is it ziptieable? It sounds ziptieable!
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Jun 9, 2015 16:58
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Toshimo posted:Hey, autogoons. I had a pretty gnarly oil leak and took it to a shop recommended by a dude I work with. Long story short, I just got the car back after a week of failed promises as to when it was actually going to be done, and I'm wondering how much I got ripped for in the end? So, I appreciate the input the first time about this, but now I'm in Round 2 and it's not going well. Saturday, the check engine light came on and the car started stuttering like it wanted to stall. I checked the oil, and it was a little low, but not dangerously so. I got it home without issue, and pulled the code (P1400) on Sunday. I couldn't come up with anything conclusive, so I took it back to the shop first thing Monday. Called them back at lunch time and they said it was the Cam Sensor and that it was gonna be $225 (which seems drat high for a $50 part and a 5 minute job), but I 100% need this car to go out of town for the next 2 weeks, so I let them do it. They kept pushing the timeframe back until I got a call around 10am today: They put it up on a lift and there's still an oil leak. They've said they are going to pull it back apart and find the leak. Am I getting taken for a ride here?
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Jun 9, 2015 17:29
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Astonishing Wang posted:Is it ziptieable? It sounds ziptieable! I don't think it is, as it's just a round plastic/rubber things that slides in behind the bulb, as far as I can tell, there isn't anything I can zip tie it to. Could be wrong, but I'd have to go back in again to check.
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Jun 9, 2015 18:14
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Greggorian posted:I don't think it is, as it's just a round plastic/rubber things that slides in behind the bulb, as far as I can tell, there isn't anything I can zip tie it to. Could be wrong, but I'd have to go back in again to check. I know what you are talking about. Try disconnecting the plug, removing the boot entirely and plugging it in again. Then drive around and see if it slips off. If it doesn't, and the boot looks mostly intact, it just isn't sitting properly. They have a retarded design wherein the plug is square but the hole in the boot is circular and it can be quite difficult to force the plug onto the bulb pins; usually the boot needs to be pushed on snug against the base of the bulb first.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:52
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My mom's car is a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S. The car has 17,300 miles on it. It's been stored in the garage since 2003 and hasn't been driven. I changed the coolant in 2011 to make sure it wasn't going to be eating the gaskets. Should I change the oil on the car? It was last changed in 2003 at 16,000 miles. The oil on the dip stick is totally clear.
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Jun 9, 2015 19:55
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0toShifty posted:My mom's car is a 2000 Toyota Celica GT-S. Yes Detergents break down over time. Like, 12 years ago they broke down.
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Jun 9, 2015 20:11
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