|
VelociBacon posted:recommend I think it's that word that I'm getting stuck on because every modern car I've seen had 95RON in the owner's manual, with disclaimers saying you won't achieve advertised mpg figures with 91RON. You're right though.
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2015 23:52
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 11:48 |
|
|
Slavvy posted:I think it's that word that I'm getting stuck on because every modern car I've seen had 95RON in the owner's manual, with disclaimers saying you won't achieve advertised mpg figures with 91RON. You're right though. I don't think it's a matter of being right or wrong just that we misunderstood each other. Do you live somewhere that uses RON primarily? My last car was a 98 STi imported from glorious nippon and it wanted 100RON, I ended up detuning it to 91AKI for awhile and then 94AKI when I wasn't happy with the tune on 91.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2015 23:55
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:$5000 includes labor, I hope, and probably also a healthy "gently caress you for making me work on a Saturn" tax. IOwnCalculus posted:If you magically managed to have a chain that got just sloppy enough that it jumped a few teeth, that could explain the low compression across the board. But unless you're willing to dive deep into that engine to second-guess the mechanic, I would take 30-60 PSI compression readings as a very big sign that it's time to park that car. $5k and some haggling should be able to get you a decent example of a 2003-2007 Accord, which would be better in just about every way. Retroblique fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jun 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 00:32
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah, people get seriously miffed at the idea of spending ~30 cents more per gallon for a higher compression engine. I'm not disagreeing, but seriously jealous that it's only a 30 cent premium where you are. Here on the east coast low vs hi octane is typically 50 cents.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 01:24
|
|
|
VelociBacon posted:I don't think it's a matter of being right or wrong just that we misunderstood each other. Do you live somewhere that uses RON primarily? My last car was a 98 STi imported from glorious nippon and it wanted 100RON, I ended up detuning it to 91AKI for awhile and then 94AKI when I wasn't happy with the tune on 91. Yeah I live in the land of RON and jap imports. I've found that most cars that can technically accept 91RON tend to ping quite heavily, especially if they're an automatic with ludicrously long gearing, and people somehow find this preferable to spending an extra 8c a litre. I'm pretty sure the economy improvement swallows up the extra cost in most cases anyway. Sonance posted:I'm assuming low compression across the board is also a symptom of a broken timing chain and not just a symptom of a hosed engine? Low compression is like a really...un-obvious? way of checking for a busted timing chain when you can just look to see if the cams turn when the engine turns. Even that's probably overkill; you can usually spot it a mile away by the sound of the engine while cranking.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 01:24
|
|
|
Here's a stupid question: what's a good way to remove thoroughly melted trash bags from a pickup bed? At least I think that's what's there. poo poo's been there since some time before I bought it and the needle scaler I tried today didn't do much. It was pretty brittle in the winter but not in the summer heat today, hopefully I don't have to wait until winter to not drive myself nuts removing the poo poo. Also I'm repainting when I'm done so paint damage is not a concern here.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 04:43
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Here's a stupid question: what's a good way to remove thoroughly melted trash bags from a pickup bed? At least I think that's what's there. poo poo's been there since some time before I bought it and the needle scaler I tried today didn't do much. It was pretty brittle in the winter but not in the summer heat today, hopefully I don't have to wait until winter to not drive myself nuts removing the poo poo. Since preserving the paint is not a concern, I'd try acetone. Gasoline might do the trick, as well. I've heard that Castrol Superclean is powerful stuff, but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet. Please protect your skin when playing with solvents and use ventilation. /PSA
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 05:08
|
|
|
Slavvy posted:Haha what? This is hilariously untrue. Most modern engines are designed to run 95RON+ (adjust rating accordingly for baffling american ratings). They can run lower octanes thanks to the magic of knock sensors (indeed, you could run practically anything and it wouldn't hurt the engine) but with power and economy penalties; I've lost track of the number of people showing up at my work complaining about pinging because the nice salesman told them their 11:1 CR dual VVTI car will be fine on 91. You lost track that the question was about cars at altitude. Denver is at about 1600 meters above sea level, less dense air won't compress as far and a higher octane is not required to avoid detonation from compression. At sea level you get one kg per square cm, in Denver it drops to 0.85. Your 11:1 motor is down to 9.5:1, and the lower premium you find here is fine. It's all normalized that low mid and high grade across America is the same despite having a different number.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 05:09
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Here's a stupid question: what's a good way to remove thoroughly melted trash bags from a pickup bed? At least I think that's what's there. poo poo's been there since some time before I bought it and the needle scaler I tried today didn't do much. It was pretty brittle in the winter but not in the summer heat today, hopefully I don't have to wait until winter to not drive myself nuts removing the poo poo. Have you applied a heat gun? Might soften it up and hey good excuse to get a heat gun.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 05:10
|
|
|
Sonance posted:2001 Saturn L200 2.2L 4-cylinder, 100K. Car completely failed to start after pumping gas, electrics and ignition fine, engine emits a high-pitched whine when trying to turn over. Two random passers-by and the towing truck guy both said, "That's a broken timing chain!" without hesitation. Royal Chevrolet engineer didn't mention timing chain at all as part of his diagnosis and simply said that he ran a compression test and all four cylinders were running 30 dry and 60 wet and need to be around 90-100. Cost he quoted for a replacement engine (no mention of mileage) is $5000 + tax. I'm thinking "gently caress that!" and that it's time to get a new car. Sorry, but the 2.2 is an interference engine. Though if the chain skips instead of breaking, and it's only by a tooth or two, you usually escape with no damage. The timing chain tensioner is a known issue on that engine; usually it's just slow to build pressure on a cold start (you've probably been hearing the timing chain rattle for a couple of seconds on a cold start for awhile), but if the engine runs low on oil, the timing chain tensioner stops working, and your timing chain skips a few teeth. And you wind up with what you have now. They've revised the timing chain tensioner multiple times as well, as the earlier revisions would let the chain skip if you looked at it funny. And a compression test wouldn't have revealed anything before the chain skipped. Since the compression is even on all 4, you could find someone who's willing to just replace the tensioner (it screws into the back of the engine block) and re-time the engine - it sounds like it's probably only off by 1 tooth. The chain isn't broken, but it's definitely skipped timing. You may get lucky and escape with damage to only your wallet. This is, of course, assuming the car is otherwise in excellent shape, and you don't mind dropping $500-1000 on it (nearly all of that will be labor). (reminds me.. I really need to put the revised tensioner into my car... same engine, just a bit newer, and I've been hearing the timing chain rattle on a cold start for a few months now) IOwnCalculus posted:$5000 includes labor, I hope, and probably also a healthy "gently caress you for making me work on a Saturn" tax. The L200 got the Ecotec 2.2 L61, same engine that's been used in millions of cars. That engine is known for timing chain tensioner issues, unfortunately (and GM has revised that tensioner many, many times), but the L series has a decently large engine bay (since they were available with a V6). But yeah, $5k on a 15 year old Saturn? No way. If he/she can find someone willing to re-time the engine and toss a new tensioner in (the tensioner literally just screws into the block with the same socket that fits the oil filter housing, then you whack it with a mallet to release the plunger) for cheap, then it's worth a shot. Aside from the timing chain tensioner, it's a solid engine that'll run forever. Unfortunately, it's likely attached to a 4T40-E unless it has a manual transmission, so the transmission will be the next thing to go. EightBit posted:Higher compression definitely isn't the norm for American market vehicles. Even Mazda nerfed their high compression engines because people here can't be hosed to buy high octane gas for vehicles that need it most of the time. The L61 mentioned above runs either 9.5:1 or 10:1 depending what it's installed in. And runs just fine on regular pump gas, no high octane requirement (or even a mention of anything above 86 in the owner's manual). Slavvy posted:Low compression is like a really...un-obvious? way of checking for a busted timing chain when you can just look to see if the cams turn when the engine turns. Even that's probably overkill; you can usually spot it a mile away by the sound of the engine while cranking. Agreed on how the starter sounds (I've had the misfortune of a timing belt breaking before), but this particular engine is known for jumping timing (especially the earlier models). I have the same engine in my car, and can't see the cams through the oil filler, so the valve cover would have to come off. The fact that it has even compression on all 4 cylinders says it likely jumped by 1 or 2 teeth (and definitely didn't break the chain), and may have even escaped without valve damage. I've seen a couple of these engines jump timing, and fire right up like nothing ever happened once you re-time them and replace the tensioner. Still doesn't fix the fact that it's a 15 year old Saturn L200 (you probably saw it as the Opel Vectra B, if you saw it at all over there). I'd have no problem buying it as a non-running car to fix, if I had the space (.. and money), but only because I know how dead simple that engine is, and if I couldn't get that engine running, there's a junkyard 5 minutes away that has piles of cars with the same engine. It'd essentially be an ignition cassette + throttle body swap + power steering pump swap (since it's driven by a camshaft  ) to get any L61 to run in it.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:14 on Jun 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 07:06
|
|
|
STR sometimes the mindblowingly specific poo poo you know kind of scares me.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 08:05
|
|
|
It kind of creeps me out too. I fully admit to being a  about cars I own/have owned. Now that I own a GM with a 2.2, I know entirely too much about the various configurations of the 2.2 and what it came in.I have nightmares about interior rattles and panel gaps because of that drat Saturn + Ecotec combo, but it's been the most solid car I've owned so far.  (if you don't count interior rattles and a sunroof that likes to get stuck occasionally)Ask me about DA Integras if you want to see some serious action, even though I only owned mine for less than 2 years. I still keep an eye out for them at junkyards, just so I can rip out all the poo poo that always breaks on them, fix it, and toss the parts on ebay.
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:24 on Jun 26, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 08:21
|
|
|
What counts as "high compression"? I thought you weren't getting into that range until you were up past 12:1.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 16:06
|
|
|
Where my Honda or Acura people at. What sparkplugs are best for a 3.2 tl. Denso or Bosch?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 17:04
|
|
|
Vehicle: 1995 Honda Civic EX 5MT Issue: Cranks but does not start Diagnostic: No fuel pressure. ECU / ECM not outputting 5V to MAP reference. As I understand it, car will not prime fuel pump without 5V on this (and possibly other) sensor reference. I've tried 3 different ECU, and all have just .0136V on the ECU output (D19). I've cleaned the main ECU ground, next step will be cleaning all other remaining grounds. Battery has charge and good voltage. Anything other than a bad ground or bad power input that could be causing 3 different ECUs to output the exact same (low) voltage? I don't have the right leads for my multimeter to backprobe ECU ports, making it difficult to further diagnose.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 18:54
|
|
|
Arriviste posted:Since preserving the paint is not a concern, I'd try acetone. Gasoline might do the trick, as well. I've heard that Castrol Superclean is powerful stuff, but haven't had the opportunity to try it yet. StormDrain posted:Have you applied a heat gun? Might soften it up and hey good excuse to get a heat gun.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 18:56
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Thanks! Accelerate the cooling with Dry Ice. It's commonly used to remove sound deadening.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 18:59
|
|
|
What are these two holes to the left of the wheel on this Fiat Abarth?
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 20:04
|
|
|
tritoch posted:Vehicle: 1995 Honda Civic EX 5MT Have you checked the relay bank that's right under the steering wheel? It might be called the main or master fuel relay switch etc., but is a common failure point on Hondas. Pull it out and use a soldering iron to temporarily melt all of the solder points on the little PCB.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 20:12
|
|
|
Ehud posted:What are these two holes to the left of the wheel on this Fiat Abarth? Looks like mounting holes for a fender flare or something like that. I think the abarth has more 'body kit' to it than the regular.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 20:23
|
|
|
EightBit posted:Have you checked the relay bank that's right under the steering wheel? It might be called the main or master fuel relay switch etc., but is a common failure point on Hondas. Pull it out and use a soldering iron to temporarily melt all of the solder points on the little PCB. I tried a new and a used relay in this spot. Fuel pump is getting voltage, which I think means the Main Relay is working.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 20:53
|
|
|
Astonishing Wang posted:Looks like mounting holes for a fender flare or something like that. I think the abarth has more 'body kit' to it than the regular. That's what I was thinking. It's just odd because I haven't seen it on any others I've looked at. I'm working with a service that buys cars long distance and I wasn't sure what the deal was with those holes. I hadn't seen them on any other car.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 21:02
|
|
|
Sort of AI/EN here, and apologies for the length. My wife (5 mos. pregnant) was in a bad accident a week ago. An 87 year old woman clipped another car (think pit maneuver) and sent it spinning into oncoming traffic. My wife hit it square on the side. My wife is OK, baby is OK so far, however the driver in the middle was airlifted from the scene unconscious and having breathing difficulty. It looks like the other driver is going to make it, albeit with 7 broken vertebrae, broken clavicle, and other injuries (was driving with no restraints according to the accident report). With that said, I just got a call from the insurance company that they are going to total our truck. I have a year and a half left on the payments. This is where my question comes in. What should I do? The truck in question is a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 2500hd. Its a crew cab, long bed, 4wd, lbz duramax, 6 speed allison, top of the line LT3 trim with leather, 158k miles. Bone stock other than a spray in bed liner and leer camper shell (which was in the barn at the time of the accident). I cant find another truck like it, and a new one is about $62k (gently caress that). The insurance company offered me $21.5k, including tax. I gave $26k for it 3 years and 65k miles ago. I don't feel thats a bad offer, but I cant replace the truck for that much. We tow with it about once a week, we have a livestock bumper pull trailer and a 10,400lb equipment trailer. We really do need another truck, but with the baby on the way, we don't want another 5yr payment book. Buyback price was $3600, and the body shop was going to give me their estimate to repair on Monday. The damage doesn't look bad, frame is straight, radiator support is bent, both front fenders are pushed back, bumper, grill, headlights, fog lights are shot. Airbags went off, but all the glass is good. However the real money is in the cooling stack. Intercooler, radiator, AC condenser, transmission cooler are all hosed. Steering components are OK. If I take their first offer, we will have about $13k left to buy another truck. If I buy it back, about $9k. What should I do? I am really torn about this. Whatever vehicle it winds up being, it needs to be reliable and safe. We frequently tow 150+ miles and my wife uses it as a daily driver. I don't want my wife/kid riding around in something half-rear end put back together. I would drive it myself but my commute is 160 miles round trip and I normally drive our Prius. Going from 50mpg -> 16mpg would suck. Can I ask for more money from the insurance company? When do I have to give the rental back? This is killing me. In southwest Indiana if that matters.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 21:04
|
|
|
Ask them where they got their number.. tell them that to buy something similar it would cost you $ x. Have ads of not crazy people to send them to say what an 06 with close to your options is selling private party and or dealer. Generally ins cos will give you less than kbb for your vehicle and you can get them to go up if you do the above... but you're not getting 62k.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 21:16
|
|
|
tater_salad posted:Ask them where they got their number.. tell them that to buy something similar it would cost you $ x. Have ads of not crazy people to send them to say what an 06 with close to your options is selling private party and or dealer. Ohh yeah, no doubt. The adjuster claimed the kbb on the truck is $14k in very good condition. No loving way is that for a diesel. I don't expect 62k by any means, but what I would be left with after the loan is paid off is not enough for a reasonable replacement.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 22:09
|
|
|
How hard would it be to replace the power steering pressure hose on a 99 Acura CL 3.0? There is a pinhole leak in the rubber right after the pump. The line disappears somewhere behind the engine, so I'm not sure how involved getting it out will be. I tried to look under the car after jacking it up but I don't have jack stands yet so I didn't want to crawl under.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2015 23:33
|
|
|
rdb posted:Sort of AI/EN here, and apologies for the length. Pull comps. Look in your area, probably within 75 to 100 miles. Ideally the same packages with similar mileage. If the offer isn't in line you can use the comps to negotiate. Typically the rental ends within 1 to 3 days post offer. This is the common problem if you don't have replacement transportation. Regarding the total, be careful. SRS stuff can get really expensive really fast. If the estimate excess the threshold in your state you also need to research if it will carry a salvage title and the steps in that to make it roadworthy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 00:51
|
|
|
tritoch posted:Accelerate the cooling with Dry Ice. It's commonly used to remove sound deadening.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 02:10
|
|
|
Some grocery stores have it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 02:20
|
|
|
My wife lost the remote to her car and we're down to one key. It's just a standard chip key and the one she lost was a flip key/remote thing. What's the best way to go about replacing it?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 03:01
|
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:My wife lost the remote to her car and we're down to one key. It's just a standard chip key and the one she lost was a flip key/remote thing. What's the best way to go about replacing it? Is it red or blue?
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 03:27
|
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:My wife lost the remote to her car and we're down to one key. It's just a standard chip key and the one she lost was a flip key/remote thing. What's the best way to go about replacing it? Is it a red car or a blue car? efb.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 03:29
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:where the hell do you buy dry ice? Google "[your city name/name of nearest major city] dry ice." Common places to find it include welding/gas suppliers and ice companies.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 03:51
|
|
|
Bovril Delight posted:Pull comps. Look in your area, probably within 75 to 100 miles. Ideally the same packages with similar mileage. If the offer isn't in line you can use the comps to negotiate. What is involved in airbag replacement? More than just new airbags and crash sensors? Used parts don't seem expensive so I must be missing something. The truck would carry a salvage title. Would I still be able to get comp/collision on that? Deal breaker if no. Wife and I went to look at trucks tonight. Since its her daily driver, she wants 4 doors, 4x4, towing 10k+ and 6.5 or 8ft bed. The prices made me want to throw up. Used tundras were $34k+, used chevy 2500s were either $20k beat up contractor trucks or $40k diesels. Going to look at a 2012 f250 6.2 gasser tomorrow. Not really looking forward to a new payment book.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 04:14
|
|
|
It's a 2012 Kia Soul +.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 04:18
|
|
|
QuarkMartial posted:It's a 2012 Kia Soul +. You'll have to go to a dealer, or to an auto electrician/garage with a scan tool that can speak Kia/Hyundai's gibberish. I'm not aware of any aftermarket alternatives for Kia's flip keys, although Hyundai keys are 100% compatible and functionally identical (just the logos differ, if it's a black rectangle type one) and depending on your country you might be luckier than me in that respect. There is, unfortunately, no DIY way of programming the keys using their infuriating six-digit code system. It's the same procedure for both the pellet key and the flip type with buttons on, there is a price difference in the base cost of the key. It's unlikely for a tool that can program the immobiliser chip to not be able to program the lock-unlock, but it's possible because they're two completely different systems on the car (you can't even communicate with them both at once, it's electrically impossible!). Obviously you lose central locking if you opt for a plain pellet key.* *:disclaimer: Kias in your market may be wildly different to the ones I see daily, but I doubt it.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 04:30
|
|
|
rdb posted:The truck would carry a salvage title. Would I still be able to get comp/collision on that? Deal breaker if no. This depends on both your state and your insurance company. I've carried full coverage out of the wazoo on a salvage title Civic that I paid $200 for. Insurance company didn't give two shits when I said it was salvage, just wanted photos. (of course, I dropped down to liability, then got into an at-fault wreck...)
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2015 08:15
|
|
|
Sorry for the double post. Friend of mine had her main car totaled - she only had liability, other driver was uninsured and can't be located. Her backup car is her former main car - it got parked after she hit something in the road awhile back. 2001 Beetle (yes, I hear all of you groaning from here), 4 cyl N/A, automatic. The car immediately starts and runs as soon as you hook up the battery cables, the brake lights stay on, and the cluster is acting weird (she thinks it's either completely dead or nearly dead - it's been parked 2 years, so her memory is a little foggy). She's not sure if the starter stays engaged or not. The only way to shut it off is to disconnect the spark plug wires (or coils? I'm not sure if it's COP or not). It still drives fine and seems to shift fine, but whatever she hit hosed both the oil and transmission pan (both of which have been replaced), and I'm guessing the engine harness got munched up enough to seriously gently caress poo poo up. She knows the sunroof still worked, but doesn't remember if signals, headlights, etc were working properly. I'm guessing something in the harness got hosed and somehow hosed up the PCM (and maybe BCM) (especially since the engine starts without the key even in the ignition - I assume an 01 VW would have some kind of chip-in-key immobilizer, right?). Any suggestions? I'd like to at least get her pointed in the right direction, though I know this is WAY outside of something I can even consider tackling (at least not without VAG-COM). The car only has 70k, and she's a single mother with 2 special needs kids, so if someone has seen this kind of VW behavior before, that'd be good to know. For obvious reasons, no shop will even look at it without being paid for a few hours of labor up front.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2015 05:31
|
|
|
Other than eBay, is there a good place to look for very specific accessories? I'm trying to find, of all things, a set of factory floor mats for a 2001 Jeep Wrangler.
|
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2015 07:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? Apr 26, 2024 11:48 |
|
|
I hate to be that guy, but... http://lmgtfy.com/?q=factory+jeep+floormats Looks like you have several options in terms of resellers, though being a 2001 you may be up poo poo creek. edit: some of the aftermarkets are downright decent - I'm talking Weathertech, or custom made. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Jun 28, 2015 |
|
#
?
Jun 28, 2015 07:50
|
|