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What kind of tools do i need to get a hosed up front bumper off a 1995 chevy beretta? I had a collision and bashed up the whole front end, but the engine works fine so I'm making a project out of it.
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Aug 8, 2015 05:59
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Aug 8, 2015 13:24
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Slavvy posted:That looks like it's sat for a really long time without being started or run. It's from condensation inside the crankcase I'll bet. Thanks for the replies. Yeah, it did sit for nearly two years at one point. Could that cause problems with anything else in the lower end?
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Aug 8, 2015 18:31
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Black88GTA posted:You can typically get this kind of stuff from dealerships still. I had to get a part just like this for my '89 Prelude last year, except in my case it was the rubber plug that held down the brake light switch when the pedal was at rest. In fact, I bet it's the exact same part. Thats it! Thank you so very much!
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Aug 8, 2015 19:58
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So, anyone in the Salt Lake valley got a recommendation of where to get my car inspected? It's good to go but I gotta get it inspected before I register it and I'd prefer to take it to a reputable place.
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Aug 8, 2015 20:42
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Unless you're trying to skirt fender/tire/lift laws, it doesn't really matter. I've actually gone to Jiffy Lube a couple of times in a pinch.
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Aug 8, 2015 22:59
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Sipher posted:Thanks for the replies. Yeah, it did sit for nearly two years at one point. Could that cause problems with anything else in the lower end? Possibly, I'd just run it and listen for noises. The only way to be 'sure' is to split the cases and check literally everything that would've been above the oil line but meeeh.
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Aug 8, 2015 23:02
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My own question. 06 Saturn Ion 3 coupe, though this should apply to any year model Ion. I ran over a piece of a tire awhile back, and it whacked the side skirt and ripped off the paint. It's slowly losing more and more paint from the side skirt. It's too large of a section to use touch up paint (at this point it's about 3" around). Being silver metallic, I know it'll be a bitch to get matched, and being a quad coupe, there's very few in junkyards (and even fewer in silver). What's the best way to keep more of it from peeling off? Mr.Bob posted:Ok guys, I need your help. I have an '93 honda del sol, and the little bushing that is attached to the clutch pedal that pushes the button on the clutch engagement switch crumbled and now if i want to start the car I have to stick my arm way up there while laying on my back. My question is where can i get a replacement, I don't even know what that little guy is called so I don't even know where to start to look. I checked my local pars stores and they had the switch, but no info on the bushing. I have heard about people taping stuff to the place where the bushing goes but I don't see how, I can barely get a slim finger in there. any help would be much appreciated. It's just a rubber plug, you can probably find a suitable replacement in the Help! section at most parts stores (Pep Boys tends to have the largest out of the chains). Anything plastic or rubber, that will fit through the opening, with a flared end and a flat surface, will work, even some interior trim clips. Just make sure the flat end is facing the switch. I've also dropped a screw in the hole in a pinch, then promptly forgot about it for a few years. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:34 on Aug 9, 2015 |
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Aug 9, 2015 06:26
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Whats the rule for installing a shock with a threaded post on top? Tighten the nut till the bushing just start to compress and bulge a little?
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Aug 9, 2015 17:11
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Senior Funkenstien posted:Whats the rule for installing a shock with a threaded post on top? Tighten the nut till the bushing just start to compress and bulge a little? That's a decent rule of thumb, but the correct answer is to look up the torque spec for your vehicle and use that; even if you can't fit a torque wrench (which I'd be surprised on any vehicle using that style shock), it'll give you a ballpark figure for your calibrated elbow.
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Aug 9, 2015 23:22
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some texas redneck posted:My own question. 06 Saturn Ion 3 coupe, though this should apply to any year model Ion. I've seen a co-worker use clear nail polish before to seal up some paint damage and keep it from getting worse until she could have it resprayed. She said it worked really well and didn't seem to react with the paint in any way. A shot of clear plastidip might also do the trick?
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Aug 10, 2015 06:01
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I was thinking clear plastidip. But I was also thinking if I'm going to go that far, why not go ahead and pull the side skirts off, strip them, then plastidip them a slightly contrasting color, then hit it with clear? I mean, they're just held on with some plastic clips anyway...  Since it's silver metallic, getting it resprayed will never look right. And I don't want black side skirts either, that'll just make it look like I got in a wreck and never got around to repainting them.
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Aug 10, 2015 06:20
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Edit: never mind.
Boxman fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Aug 10, 2015 |
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Aug 10, 2015 13:19
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Elmnt80 posted:A shot of clear plastidip might also do the trick? That's a thing? gently caress me.
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Aug 10, 2015 15:16
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Not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but I couldn't find a thread that looked more appropriate. What do you guys think about radar detectors? I've gathered that cheaping out is a bad move, and have decided on the Escort Passport 8500. Seems like a high quality unit and its $225 on Amazon so decently cheap too. I live in VT and see a good mix of highway, suburban/commercial back roads and very rural back roads, if that makes a difference. Anyway, just wondering if you guys think buying a radar detector is worth it?
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Aug 10, 2015 16:58
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martinlutherbling posted:Not sure if this is the right place to ask this, but I couldn't find a thread that looked more appropriate. What do you guys think about radar detectors? I've gathered that cheaping out is a bad move, and have decided on the Escort Passport 8500. Seems like a high quality unit and its $225 on Amazon so decently cheap too. It depends on how you drive. I have an Escort of some sort kicking around, and it probably helped me avoid a couple of tickets back when I used to drive fast. I don't use it any more, but I'd probably put it or a V1 in a fast car if I owned one.
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Aug 10, 2015 17:09
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Unless I'm going through residential neighborhoods, school zones or work zones, chances are I'm over the speed limit. It's my first fast car in 11 years of driving (Saab 92x) and it's fun to get on it, especially on twisty back roads.
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Aug 10, 2015 17:28
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martinlutherbling posted:Unless I'm going through residential neighborhoods, school zones or work zones, chances are I'm over the speed limit. It's my first fast car in 11 years of driving (Saab 92x) and it's fun to get on it, especially on twisty back roads. The real value of a radar detector is on the interstate. It goes off, you slow down to a reasonable speed and start scanning ahead, then you see the cop around the next bend or over the next hill. Rural highways usually aren't heavily-enough travelled to warrant speed traps except for the little towns where the speed limit drops from 55 to 25 over a half a mile. In the city, there are so many false positives that muting the thing becomes a chore.
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Aug 10, 2015 18:02
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That's a fair point. However, I've had a couple of close calls on back roads and rural highways in the last few years. Not a ton, but I figure it only takes a ticket or two to cover the cost of an RD. False alerts around town do sound annoying as gently caress, but the 8500 supposedly has decent filtering options and a conveniently located mute button on the power cable.
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Aug 10, 2015 19:29
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Yeah, I got used to hitting the mute button pretty heavily. It got to the point where I wouldn't bother taking the detector out of my center console unless I was going to get on the highway.
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Aug 10, 2015 19:46
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A guy hit my parked car. Am I okay to accept a reconditioned bumper cover? I won't know the difference as long as it fits and the paint sticks to it. What is Audatex two-stage refinish formula? Is that primer and paint? Or paint and clear coat? This shop is pretty reputable from people I've spoken to.
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Aug 10, 2015 20:14
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FogHelmut posted:A guy hit my parked car. Am I okay to accept a reconditioned bumper cover? I won't know the difference as long as it fits and the paint sticks to it. Recon is fine. It's an OEM bumper. Two stage paint is always color and clear. Primer isn't included in the stages unless you have some primer/paint combo. The formula is just what the system is telling them for the time to refinish the bumper in terms of labor hours.
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Aug 10, 2015 21:27
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First time used car buyer. Question on third party warranty companies. Any to stay away from? Any to look for?
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Aug 11, 2015 01:38
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Hey guys. Got an issue that has been keeping me from driving my car. I finally got my pay check so now I can order all the parts I need for this fix. I'm almost 95% sure I know what the problem is but I wanted to make sure before I dropped this $. 04 Buick Lesabre, 3800 series II. 110,000 miles on it. Car has been kept in great shape and has no issues except... The only symptoms I've noticed are: 1. Randomly (1 out of 10 starts), the car can't start, usually after the engine is hot. Every time the engine is cold is start rights up. 2. Switching from Park to Reverse or vise versa, the rpms drop noticeably lower with sound. It even died once in the middle of switching from P to R. 3. Dexcool level very slowly dropping over time after I run the car, but 0 coolant puddles or leaks under the car. 4. And the most obvious sign I think is a very small pool of dexcool sitting up next to the intake manifold that has recently happened in cohesion with the rest of the symptoms. http://imgur.com/0HQwL6v close up of leak http://imgur.com/XlD4ivC not close up http://imgur.com/3ePF3tC not close up All research has pointed me in the direction of the infamous 3800 series engine intake manifold coolant gasket leak. I provided some pictures of the dexcool leak. All the parts added up on amazon to replace is actually quite cheap and the job is fairly easy. But before I do this, I was wondering if I should just take it into a shop to have them diagnose that the problem is what I believe it to be. Or are the signs and symptoms pretty obvious that the issue is the intake manifold gasket leak. Thanks in advance ladies and gents.
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Aug 11, 2015 04:51
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Koppite posted:First time used car buyer. Stay away from: all Look for: a rainy day fund
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Aug 11, 2015 05:13
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My 2002 NB Miata usually makes a mild but noticeable whining/squeaking noise from the clutch/transmission area when the clutch is engaged in neutral. It's less noticeable on a hot car and goes away completely when I disengage the clutch or shift into a gear (though maybe it's just too quite to hear at that point). However, rarely it makes a pretty scary rattle, like if something is being shaken apart. Again, this is with the clutch engaged in neutral - yesterday I pulled into a parking spot, took it out of gear and - rat-tatttat. Depressing the clutch pedal a couple of times got rid of the noise and today everything seemed as usual. I'd say it could be the pilot bearing or input shaft, but a) would it really rattle like that? and b) any way to diagnose this further? I also do have some classic clutch chatter/judder symptoms. PS. Should I also get the rear main seal done? There are no leaks there. What's the part number for a 5-speed NBFL? There are a couple of parts that seem to be very different: http://ilmotorsport.de/shop/article_detail.php5?aid=4240&oid=&depth=0&page=1&count=28&PHPSESSID=517918093f28406dcd8e3b5a8177179c http://ilmotorsport.de/shop/article_detail.php5?aid=1082&oid=&depth=0&page=1&count=28&PHPSESSID=517918093f28406dcd8e3b5a8177179c
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Aug 11, 2015 08:29
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25 lighters posted:Hey guys. Got an issue that has been keeping me from driving my car. I finally got my pay check so now I can order all the parts I need for this fix. I'm almost 95% sure I know what the problem is but I wanted to make sure before I dropped this $. It's an obvious intake manifold leak worth fixing yourself. If it doesn't cure all your symptoms post back here.
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Aug 11, 2015 12:54
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Safety Dance posted:Stay away from: all This. Usually the cost of a warranty is about the amount needed for a good rainy day fund minus anything super expensive (engine or transmission exploding) and then your pretty much 2/3s the way there in terms of cost (figuring 3 grand for a rebuild)
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Aug 11, 2015 17:05
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My Heep (2002 Jeep Wrangler four point oh) started making a dull thud from the front left when I turn the steering wheel. It made that sound whether I was stopped or moving slowly. I only really noticed it in the grocery store parking lot last night. What should I inspect?
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Aug 11, 2015 17:13
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Safety Dance posted:My Heep (2002 Jeep Wrangler four point oh) started making a dull thud from the front left when I turn the steering wheel. It made that sound whether I was stopped or moving slowly. I only really noticed it in the grocery store parking lot last night. What should I inspect? I'd get under it with someone cranking the wheel and just start looking at / listening to drat near everything down there.
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Aug 11, 2015 17:38
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I have a 2011 Prius with 65k miles on it. During regularly-scheduled 5k mile maintenance, our dealership noted a small oil leak from the timing chain cover and recommended replacement and re-sealing of the cover, which they estimated at 14 hours of labor for a total cost of $1,850. I know nothing about cars, but this seems absurd to me - we've had the car for 8 months, it only cost $16k, and they're asking us to sink more than 10% of the purchase price into this repair a mere 5k miles after the manufacturer's warranty expired. My questions are these: 1) Is this something that actually needs to be fixed? If it's the kind of thing that's just going to get worse slowly and I have to fix eventually then I'll just do it now, it's not like it's going to get any cheaper. 2) Is 14 hours really a reasonable estimate of the time it will take to fix? 3) Is there typically any room to negotiate pricing here? I've owned cars for 17 years and this is by far the largest repair bill I've ever had, so I've never really balked at a price like this before. In short, this sucks, gently caress Toyota, and I should have gambled on the stupid extended warranty bullshit. Thanks for your help.
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Aug 11, 2015 18:01
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That sounds expensive, but it depends on how far they have to dig to get at the cover to replace it. Personally, I'm cheap and lazy, I'd just monitor the oil level and add as needed. A quart of oil is... 5 bucks? Edit: hahahah this repair is gently caress you territory for a mechanic. 14 hours sounds high but reasonable. http://carspecmn.com/2004-2009-toyota-prius-timing-cover-oil-leak-wpictures/ BrokenKnucklez fucked around with this message at 18:11 on Aug 11, 2015 |
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Aug 11, 2015 18:06
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Define "small". Does the car actually leave any oil? Does the oil level decrease between oil changes?
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Aug 11, 2015 18:24
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rdb posted:It's an obvious intake manifold leak worth fixing yourself. If it doesn't cure all your symptoms post back here. Thank you for the reply, i def will post back after the fix. 
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Aug 11, 2015 18:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Define "small". Does the car actually leave any oil? Does the oil level decrease between oil changes? I was not there, I am reporting second-hand from my wife. They did not specify whether it was dripping oil or just a smear of oil or what, but they said the oil levels were consistent with what they should be 5k miles after the prior oil change, and they did not add oil to it. I know this - the car is not leaving oil in our driveway. Now that I see where this thing is, I can go out to the car later and check myself and see if there's oil there and how much - I'll do that this afternoon. Another question - assuming I have them do this, are there any preventative things I should have them do at the same time? Like, if it takes 14 hours to take off and put on the cover, should I have them do something with the timing chain or whatever while it's already off?
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Aug 11, 2015 18:46
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Sub Par posted:I was not there, I am reporting second-hand from my wife. They did not specify whether it was dripping oil or just a smear of oil or what, but they said the oil levels were consistent with what they should be 5k miles after the prior oil change, and they did not add oil to it. Then I'd lean towards an opportunistic Toyota dealer trying to turn a bit of seepage into a four-figure repair bill. Every engine will eventually leak a tiny bit, enough to collect dust and make a mess of things, but if it's losing so little oil that it doesn't even warrant a topoff after 5000 miles, then there's probably nothing to worry about. Take some pictures of the areas in question and see if they even actually look wet versus just dirty.
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Aug 11, 2015 18:52
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Thanks guys. I'm just going to check the oil every couple weeks and take it in if I notice anything crazy going on. At the next service check-in we'll see if a different tech sees the same issue.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:14
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I'd go to a reputable Indy shop for a second opinion.
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Aug 11, 2015 19:20
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Sub Par posted:Thanks guys. I'm just going to check the oil every couple weeks and take it in if I notice anything crazy going on. At the next service check-in we'll see if a different tech sees the same issue. Don't let anyone fool you, the Toyota dealer makes thier money in the service department. They rely on owners not being educated about the maintenance of thier own vehicles, and the false pretence that only the Toyota dealer can make the proper fix with only Toyota certified parts, fluids and special tools. There probably is an oil leak(the dealer would be breaking the law by attempting to sell the service otherwise), but its miniscule and won't cause issues. Take it somewhere else for an honest opinion, or post pictures here.
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Aug 11, 2015 21:13
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Alright guys I got an interesting one. My brakes have worked great since I fixed the leaky wheel cylinder on the back passenger side. Today after getting back in after several hours I found a spongy brake and the ebrake pedal goes down a lot further than it did earlier in the day. I looked for leaks and checked the fluids. It was a sudden change not a gradual one. What ideas do you guys have on the cause? Edit: Its a rear wheel drive 94 ford ranger. Senior Funkenstien fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Aug 12, 2015 |
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Aug 12, 2015 01:19
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