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FogHelmut posted:Liberty Mutual called me to tell me they accidentally issued the check to me instead of to the shop doing the repair on my bumper. The check is for $235, and they want me to pay that and my $500 deductible to the shop, which they will refund to me when they get the money from the other guy's GEICO. Your deductible is your self insured portion. You owe it until your company confirms the other company has accepted liability and/or receives payment, depending on how they operate. If you don't pay it the shop won't release your car. On the $245 they should be able to stop it and reissue it.
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Aug 13, 2015 17:29
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I have a 2008 350Z and the cruise control recently went out. It started out where some days the activation light on the dash would blink and the CC was unusable until I restarted the car. Other times it would turn on fine and work properly. Eventually it just stopped turning on period. The DTC is P1564 which my mechanic told me meant the cruise control switch is bad. He wants $350+ to fix it and I like my money where it is. A cursory Google search tells me a new switch is <$50, but I can't find instructions for actually replacing the switch. Is this something I can do myself or do I need to bite the bullet and let the shop work on it?
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Aug 13, 2015 18:36
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Instructions. They're for putting CC in a non-CC vehicle but the procedure for removing and dismantling the steering wheel is the same. Looks like a piece of cake.
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Aug 13, 2015 20:05
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Alright I could use a little insight from the crowd, please I have a custom 4-wheel disc brake setup on an older car but, after a short drive, all 4 of my calipers will begin dragging until mighty close to locking-up. After a couple hours the pressure build-up will fade and all 4 wheel assemblies will spin freely. Here is a MS paint of my current setup:  *3-ways are just a guess at being a junction without any springs/moving components I dont actually know this In the spirit of hotrodding, I used the original drum front/drum rear master cylinder and removed the residual valves. These are designed to maintain pressure for a drum-brake circuit so that the shoes do not drag, but for me they are useless, yet still my brakes would drag http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/residual-check-valve.html a guy on a website posted:Many master cylinder's designed for drum brakes incorporate a residual check valve to keep a slight amount of pressure on the system after the brake pedal has been released. These residual check valves are used on drum brake systems to keep around 5psi. up to 12psi. of pressure on the wheel cylinder's cup seals and resist any momentum of brake fluid returning to the master cylinder.  ) It's not been so simple, though. I've put on a rebuilt disc front/drum rear master cylinder with the single residual valve removed and it produces the same 4-wheel dragging as my drum front/drum rear MC with the res. valves gutted. I've removed the metering valve to discover its mostly sludge-based now   But after cleaning and gutting the valve of spring/caps nothing has changed. 4-wheel dragging & too much pressure in the system. Does any one know if there is supposed to be a plunger in the middle of these things and I didnt notice because it was so scummy? I'm really at a loss of where to explore next. The only unknown rubber line in the system is the transition from the metering valve hard-line to the 3-way junction going to the rear. Even if that hose was collapsing, would it lock up all 4 corners? I know the pressure is building through the entire system because my Drum/drum master cylinder had a pressure activated brake light switch at the bottom, and that would stay on during this condition. In my research I came across this link: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt101a.htm but the master cylinder design is a bit different than what I have. British rodders posted:Look at the image showing internal parts of the master cylinder, and notice numbers and pointers in red. #1 is location of some small holes in the piston that allow forward flow of fluid during the return stroke. This is where fluid enters the pressure chamber to "pump up" the brakes during multiple stroke operation. #2 is pointing at a spot at the inside corner of the Valve Body flange. You can drill a small hole here (maybe 1/32 inch diameter) to serve as the restricting return orifice. The hole needs to be located within the ID of the Valve Washer, and downstream from the edge of the Valve Cup. This hole can be quite small so it does not defeat the pump up function. What it will do is to allow bleed off of any residual pressure within a few seconds of final pedal release (similar to you opening a bleed nipple at the wheel). This will then assure that the 8 psi residual pressure does not persist for long after final release of the brakes. Does anyone have ANY idea? Because i am running out of them myself. stone soup fucked around with this message at 00:21 on Aug 14, 2015 |
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Aug 13, 2015 23:01
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You have a junction before the metering valve?  On my C10, both front and rear go master -> metering valve -> one line going to respective axle and then a tee to split it to both wheels.What vehicle is this on?
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Aug 13, 2015 23:15
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IOwnCalculus posted:You have a junction before the metering valve? 1967 AMC Rambler.  Tbh I have no idea how original any of this is since the brake circuit is not shown drawn out in the service manual I own.
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Aug 13, 2015 23:28
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Hey Guys, I got new shocks for the back of my truck. I have a 94 ford ranger and the back shocks are eyelets on top and bottom with rubber bushing pressed in. I got metal sleeves in the package with the shocks and I'm not sure what they are for other than spacing out double shock setups. Any thoughts on what they are for?
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Aug 14, 2015 00:27
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Wally Joyner posted:1967 AMC Rambler. Yeah, that looks like jimbo just ran the lines wherever was convenient, having a proportioning valve mated into one of the front lines makes no sense at all.
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Aug 14, 2015 02:02
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I've got a 2007 Nissan Altima with about 130k miles on it. I bought it brand new and it started out getting about 35 mpg (according to the dash monitor) on the highway and around 27 mpg (again, according to the dash monitor) on surface streets. Lately I'm getting about 25 mpg highway and 20 mpg surface streets. What gives? I think I'm missing some routine maintenance thing here that would vastly help these numbers, unless the mpg just goes down with the age of the car (which does seem possible in my limited scope of knowledge about cars).
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Aug 14, 2015 05:17
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Been reading about hydrostatic transmissions for garden tractors... Find it fascinating. Is there any other good books or something that would go into a little more depth in regards to fluid based transmission/theory/etc? (Also learning about the voodoo inside automatics would be a bonus)
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Aug 14, 2015 05:23
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Neitherman posted:I've got a 2007 Nissan Altima with about 130k miles on it. I bought it brand new and it started out getting about 35 mpg (according to the dash monitor) on the highway and around 27 mpg (again, according to the dash monitor) on surface streets. Lately I'm getting about 25 mpg highway and 20 mpg surface streets. What gives? I think I'm missing some routine maintenance thing here that would vastly help these numbers, unless the mpg just goes down with the age of the car (which does seem possible in my limited scope of knowledge about cars). What is the condition of your tires, and have you inflated them to the car's spec (usually on a sticker in the driver's door frame)? What fuel are you running? Have you had any check engine lights? When was the last time someone inspected your brakes (such as to see if they're dragging)? How much weight do you have in the car? When was the last time you had an alignment? There are a lot of factors that could hurt mileage. Some of them have to do with the engine - it might need some maintenance, like plugs, wires, cap & rotor. You might have a failing transmission. But it's best to start with the low-hanging fruit. Oh, and try measuring the mileage yourself. Next time you fill the tank, reset the trip meter. Then the time after that, take note of how much fuel you put into the tank to fill it back up, and divide by the number of miles you drove, to get an actual measured MPG. Maybe your computer isn't working right.
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Aug 14, 2015 06:00
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Neitherman posted:I've got a 2007 Nissan Altima with about 130k miles on it. I bought it brand new and it started out getting about 35 mpg (according to the dash monitor) on the highway and around 27 mpg (again, according to the dash monitor) on surface streets. Lately I'm getting about 25 mpg highway and 20 mpg surface streets. What gives? I think I'm missing some routine maintenance thing here that would vastly help these numbers, unless the mpg just goes down with the age of the car (which does seem possible in my limited scope of knowledge about cars). Also gas was better in 07, my cars lost a bunch of mpgs with this switch to a poo poo ethanol blend. Either go pure gas or e85 but dont give me a poo poo e10 concoction.
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Aug 14, 2015 06:29
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Don't forget - O2 sensors are wear items too.
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Aug 14, 2015 12:14
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They really shouldn't be. There is an aging effect in O2 sensors but it's well understood, should be calibrated for, and eventually tops out.
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Aug 14, 2015 13:46
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Leperflesh posted:Oh, and try measuring the mileage yourself. Next time you fill the tank, reset the trip meter. Then the time after that, take note of how much fuel you put into the tank to fill it back up, and divide by the number of miles you drove, to get an actual measured MPG. Maybe your computer isn't working right. Comparing actual mpg to the computer would be an apples to oranges comparison for me. The computer has always been off, though consistently off. If they don't have an actual baseline from when the car was new, there isn't anything to compare to.
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Aug 14, 2015 14:12
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New Odyssey is due for an oil change. Some quick googling hasn't revealed much, but I'm curious if any other honda owners with a j35 motor (aluminum v6 - it's a j35a7 in the odyssey, but same family shouldn't make a huge difference) have any preference/input from blackstone on oil to use? I'm probably just going to go with M1 of appropriate weight, as this isn't a turbo subaru, so it should be sufficient for our around town driving.
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Aug 14, 2015 15:51
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Hello AI! Greetings from CA! I have a 94 Chevy Suburban in various states of disrepair as it ages. Most recently my ignition cylinder became locked in the "ON" position. I got it home and pulled a fuse and the battery so that it would shut off, but I can't get the thing to budge no matter what I try, so I'm looking at swapping out the cylinder unless I'm missing something. Anyone have any tips, pointers, or walkthrus for doing this? I've found some on similar old GM trucks that I think would apply to mine as well but I don't want to start tearing into it if there is some more information I can get about it, or perhaps a link to someone who had done it on this kind of vehicle. Am I going to need special tools? I saw one link mention a 'steering wheel puller' which I have no idea what it is since I haven't done this before. Would I need anything else? I'm going to go chat up the people at NAPA/KOI when I get parts to see what they can tell me but I expect there might be more experience on this board than with the guy behind the counter there, depending on who I talk to. Thanks for any help/tips. Love, nsaP, Grandmaster Dong of CA
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Aug 14, 2015 15:55
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Looking at getting some summer tires (for the spring). Does anybody have experience with Sumitomo HTR Z III's? They're some of the cheapest on Tire Rack but have tons of positive reviews with almost no negative feedback. I know tires aren't something you want to cheap out on it but it seems like these are just a legit good value. Car is an 05 92x Aero if that makes a difference.
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Aug 14, 2015 16:23
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How much would I be looking at to get a part fabricated? I only ask in interest because I just paid $100 to replace a snapped alternator bracket in a 96 jeep grand Cherokee.
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Aug 14, 2015 16:45
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Slavvy posted:Yeah, that looks like jimbo just ran the lines wherever was convenient, having a proportioning valve mated into one of the front lines makes no sense at all. I was going to agree with you but, after finding pictures of other Rambler MC setups, I'm suspecting its original Edit: lol AMC   I'm going to examine the 2 master cylinders I have to make sure the plungers will allow a drain to each reservoir. I'm still stumped at this point, though. stone soup fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Aug 14, 2015 |
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Aug 14, 2015 16:48
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martinlutherbling posted:Looking at getting some summer tires (for the spring). Does anybody have experience with Sumitomo HTR Z III's? They're some of the cheapest on Tire Rack but have tons of positive reviews with almost no negative feedback. I know tires aren't something you want to cheap out on it but it seems like these are just a legit good value. Car is an 05 92x Aero if that makes a difference. I used to daily drive and autocross on Sumitomo HTR Z IIs, I think. They're great tires for the price. I managed to go through about a set a year due to road hazards, though. SlayVus posted:How much would I be looking at to get a part fabricated? I only ask in interest because I just paid $100 to replace a snapped alternator bracket in a 96 jeep grand Cherokee. By a professional machinist, paying shop rates? Probably a few hundred for that part, at least. Maybe *maybe* you could have found someone to weld up your existing alternator bracket, but getting it perfectly straight would still be a pain in the butt. If you have a buddy who works in a machine shop who has some free time, you could maybe get it done for $50 + a case of beer.
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Aug 14, 2015 17:06
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nsaP posted:Hello AI! Greetings from CA! I had a cobalt ss do this, it was under warranty so I had it towed to the dealership. The claimed to have taken a pipe wrench to the key and got it unstuck... Sure enough, when I got it back, the key appeared to have been straightened. They did have to replace the cylinder and switch behind it.
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Aug 14, 2015 17:40
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Wally Joyner posted:I was going to agree with you but, after finding pictures of other Rambler MC setups, I'm suspecting its original Yeah but I don't see a proportioning valve in either of those? I stumbled across this as well, it looks like he just has the front line going to the tee and has a separate aftermarket proportioning valve in the rear line. Take this as a sign to redo your lines with copper and install a proper proportioning valve. I've got one of these, seems pretty nice though I still need to actually get some miles on it 
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Aug 14, 2015 18:25
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Sorry I forgot to mention I was mistaken: what I thought was proportioning valve is only a pressure differential switch. It is the scummy thing i pictured in the earlier post and it is located on the passenger firewall. It's been cleaned and gutted so it's only serving as a junction now. I did buy something similar to what you are running, but I was expecting to only use it on the rears if the brake balance was off. If i need to run new lines then Ill be doing something similar to the guy's setup in your link and have vacuum assist, but I want to discover why this is happening first lol. Edit: http://theamcpages.com/images/brakes/70switch-a-1.jpg http://theamcpages.com/images/brakes/70switch-b-1.jpg Looks like there is a plunger in the center that is supposed to be free sliding. My plunger seemed to be locked into place. Edit (x2): I have a better idea: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderreplace/howworks.html I think this would be why I am seeing the same condition for both master cylinders, considering I am using the same rod/backing washer on both units and have not looked for this measurement stone soup fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Aug 14, 2015 |
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Aug 14, 2015 18:45
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This is a question worthy of stupidity. I own a 2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer 2WD and need to get some new tires on it. Have done my shopping around online and getting quotes and am still at a loss. In person information conflicts with online information, go figure, and it has gotten to the point where the car is no longer safe to drive without new tires. My question is, what tire brand is best suited for wet conditions and driving on the highway? Living in the northwest they need to deal well with wet conditions. About 95% of driving is down on the highway, the rest is on the rare occasion we go camping. The smoother the ride the better, but not going to make or break a great deal. We have been looking at Costco, because price and convenience, and the two tires brands they have to offer are Bridgestone and Michelin. Also, I guess its kinda important, would like to stay below $700 for 4 tires.
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Aug 14, 2015 18:50
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Fixit posted:My question is, what tire brand is best suited for wet conditions and driving on the highway? The specific tire matters a lot. The brands make a wide variety of types of tires at various price points. Some are good, some suck. The brand alone isn't enough to decide which is "best".
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Aug 14, 2015 18:57
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Fixit posted:This is a question worthy of stupidity. I poked through what Costco recommends for your car, and I'd go for the Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus tires. They get good ratings on TireRack, and they come in under your budget. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...NPOWL&tab=Sizes http://tires2.costco.com/product.aspx?ItemNo=849332&SearchID=cf2a2012-d5ea-4e74-b6e0-5668cecdcebf
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Aug 14, 2015 19:13
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Safety Dance posted:I poked through what Costco recommends for your car, and I'd go for the Bridgestone Dueler H/L Alenza Plus tires. They get good ratings on TireRack, and they come in under your budget. https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tire...NPOWL&tab=Sizes AH! Tirerack, completely forgot about that website. Doing a quick search on there are these Firestone tires any good? Also thanks for the recommendation. For some reason I don't see those on my search on Costco but like the ratings and price. Is 8.8 points for wet traction pretty standard or really good?
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Aug 14, 2015 19:24
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Fixit posted:AH! Tirerack, completely forgot about that website. Doing a quick search on there are these Firestone tires any good? The tires currently on my truck get an 8.7, and if I really hammer the throttle through a turn in the wet I can make the back end drift. If you're not driving like a dong, it should be calm and no surprises.
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Aug 14, 2015 19:33
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Anything I should do to figure out what caused this break? I've already ordered a replacement part, but I don't want it to break in me because the one I bought was the only one I could find.  Also this part is cast, is it really that hard to get a strong weld on it? I asked a friend welder and he said it probably wouldn't hold. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Aug 14, 2015 |
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Aug 14, 2015 19:43
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SlayVus posted:Anything I should do to figure out what caused this break? I've already ordered a replacement part, but I don't want it to break in me because the one I bought was the only one I could find. I would expect it's cheap enough not to worry about welding it. The forces acting on that I believe are just the force from the belt tensioner, if that was over-tightened I could see some issues but I'm surprised it broke like that.
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Aug 14, 2015 20:12
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SlayVus posted:Anything I should do to figure out what caused this break? I've already ordered a replacement part, but I don't want it to break in me because the one I bought was the only one I could find. You can't really weld on that bracket, it will just burn through. They are cast from pretty lovely metal, so it probably had fatigue failure. Newer 4.0 alternator brackets have a different design that doesn't appear to have that sharp neck taking all the stress, so I'm guessing that someone figured out that this was a common and preventable failure.
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Aug 14, 2015 20:32
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Which 110v HF welder was the only not-poo poo one for auto body use again? I can't find the posts about them. I just need to do some replacement body panels on the bus, and I'll be learning at the same time. I'm also assuming an angle grinder is appropriate for old rusty panel cutting at odd angles, right?
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Aug 14, 2015 20:38
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Geirskogul posted:Which 110v HF welder was the only not-poo poo one for auto body use again? Sounds like a pretty tall order but if such a thing exists I might get one too.
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Aug 14, 2015 20:53
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Pham Nuwen posted:I just bought a 1986 Mazda B2000 that I know basically nothing about because the PO was some shady dude who met me in a parking lot. Still, the truck was cheap... Anyway, I've got a couple questions. Speaking of the 87, has anyone here attempted a carb to fuel injected conversion, on any vehicle really, before? I'm curious just how much of a pain in the rear end it is.
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Aug 14, 2015 20:56
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Pham Nuwen posted:Sounds like a pretty tall order but if such a thing exists I might get one too. I thought there was one. Like, one.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:04
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Parts Kit posted:I've got an 87 and that poo poo is fun to wrench on and drive. I still need to figure out what's going on with my carb... it's loving nuts, I think it's so huge due to some sort of emissions thing. Edit: tell me more about your truck btw, poo poo to look out for and such. I'm loving mine so far, can't wait to get in there this weekend for the oil change, timing belt & water pump change, radiator flush, etc. Amazon's got parts converging on my location from all across the country.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:05
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Geirskogul posted:I thought there was one. Like, one. Tools Thread?
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Aug 14, 2015 21:20
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Parts Kit posted:Speaking of the 87, has anyone here attempted a carb to fuel injected conversion, on any vehicle really, before? I'm curious just how much of a pain in the rear end it is. Yes, and it came with a new engine and transmission too!  Fixit posted:AH! Tirerack, completely forgot about that website. Doing a quick search on there are these Firestone tires any good? About the only way to truly go wrong on tires is to buy tires that are wildly inappropriate (i.e. summer tires in snow / freezing temperatures), or to buy Nankangs. Tirerack's review info is good, but consider that the vast majority of people only try out a new set of tires when they've worn their old ones to shreds, and any new tire will feel/perform better than the old one just by virtue of not having been heat cycled for tens of thousands of miles. I would put far more weight on their actual comparison tests that they run, than I would on the user reviews, but unfortunately they don't seem to have any tests in that category. All that said, the Destination overall is reviewed almost as highly as the (very solid) Michelin LTX M/S, and it's a heck of a lot cheaper. Out of that list from TireRack it's the one I'd buy hands down.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:21
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Parts Kit posted:I've got an 87 and that poo poo is fun to wrench on and drive. actually since we're having tirechat right now, what tires are you running on yours? Mine has 3 5-year-old Kumhos and one tire with studs in it. I'm thinking I should get a new set of the cheapest acceptable tires on there.
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Aug 14, 2015 21:24
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