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EightBit posted:Budget a long weekend removing the carpet and prepping for bedlining. How much should I expect to pay for something like this and what would I ask for at a shop? Is it really a spray-on berliner that's the only way to do it except for the custom fit mats?
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Jan 3, 2016 08:16
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TildeATH posted:How much should I expect to pay for something like this and what would I ask for at a shop? Is it really a spray-on berliner that's the only way to do it except for the custom fit mats? That's the cheapest one you can do yourself. Tons of prep work, so it will cost  to have a shop do it.
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Jan 3, 2016 08:16
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Familiar Foreigner posted:Update, I finally fixed what I thought was hard shifting on my 00 Camry 2.2l, turns out the motor mounts were so shot that the entire engine was lifting when it changed gears, go figure. On top of what others said, maybe a clogged catalytic converter? (unlikely) Or a coolant temp sensor? A good code reader (one that lets you read live data) should show how warm the ECU thinks the engine is. And your gauge on the dash likely uses a different sensor, so don't rule it out just because the gauge says it's at a normal temp. A sticking injector should trip a misfire or rich code.
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Jan 3, 2016 08:18
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EightBit posted:That's the cheapest one you can do yourself. Tons of prep work, so it will cost And if you ever have any kind of repair that requires getting to the wiring that is run underneath the carpet, you're boned.
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Jan 3, 2016 08:36
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I guess it might help to know why you don't want carpet so much. Whatever solution I imagine it'll cost a few thousand at a minimum.
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Jan 3, 2016 16:55
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Bovril Delight posted:I guess it might help to know why you don't want carpet so much. Whatever solution I imagine it'll cost a few thousand at a minimum. I just don't like carpet and I had an old sports car with an aluminum floor and assumed I could get that in a modern car, but the only vehicles that have any non-carpet interiors as a standard option are all off-roading types. I know there will be more road noise without carpet, but I just don't like it. I don't like it enough that I'm willing to spend the money necessary to have it replaced, but before I do that, I was hoping that it was something that other people had done so when I walked into a shop I didn't just say, "Here is my credit card, go and do whatever you want" but rather I could ask for X or Y or Z. I'm kind of shocked that there's no go-to no-carpet deal that I can do with a regular car other than custom-fitted mud inserts. I don't want inserts and mats, I want the carpet gone. But apparently nobody ever does this?
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Jan 3, 2016 17:20
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There is no common solution because nobody does this. Most people get by with a plastic or rubber mat for wet or muddy stuff. Comedy option get some diamond plate and go to town.
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Jan 3, 2016 17:24
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Christobevii3 posted:Is this a real life danger to the intake manifold scenario because of bad motors mounts? Raluek posted:TPS maybe? I'm not sure what the test procedure is for these, but it's probably resistive. some texas redneck posted:On top of what others said, maybe a clogged catalytic converter? (unlikely) Or a coolant temp sensor? A good code reader (one that lets you read live data) should show how warm the ECU thinks the engine is. And your gauge on the dash likely uses a different sensor, so don't rule it out just because the gauge says it's at a normal temp. Hmm, never checked the cat, would that cause poor idle until the engine has been run at high RPM? The coolant temp sensor is also new, because I suspected the same thing and they were $20. You're right the gauge and ecu use different sensors. I do find it odd no codes have appeared considering how rough it's been. If anything the spark plugs look like they've been running a touch lean. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 17:55 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 17:38
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I had a similar problem - the idle would bounce up and down and it would tend to stall out if I let it idle and didn't give it gas. The car would struggle for awhile to keep running - the lights would dim ect. It would run fine when I gave it gas but it would flake out whenever it was time to idle. The tachometer would do same thing as in that video there for a minute until the car stalled out. I thought it was the IAC but it was not. It was a vacuum leak between the MAF and the Intake. ultrabay2000 fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Jan 3, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 18:04
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TildeATH posted:I just don't like carpet and I had an old sports car with an aluminum floor and assumed I could get that in a modern car, but the only vehicles that have any non-carpet interiors as a standard option are all off-roading types. I know there will be more road noise without carpet, but I just don't like it. Sorry, but most people don't do this. The desire to have no carpet almost always lines up with using a vehicle off road or for job sites. Even in vehicles where it's easy, like Wranglers, most people just add mud inserts because they don't realize that taking the carpet out is possible or easy. If you want no carpet and don't want to spend a few thousand dollars, you will have to remove it yourself. This means removing the seats and any other interior pieces that the carpet goes under. If you want it to look nice after that, you'll have to do something like bedlining where the carpet used to be. You can get kits to do that yourself for a few hundred dollars; you might want to stick to the roll-on variety to reduce the amount of prep work you have to do. Prep work for bedlining is similar to prepping for paint: cleaning, rough sanding, cleaning again, masking off the surrounding area, and finally applying the stuff.
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Jan 3, 2016 19:36
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Manufacturers often run wires under carpet too, so you'll have to slap wiremold on that. I imagine some manufacturers slap sound deadening under carpet too.
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Jan 3, 2016 19:40
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TildeATH posted:I just don't like carpet and I had an old sports car with an aluminum floor and assumed I could get that in a modern car, but the only vehicles that have any non-carpet interiors as a standard option are all off-roading types. I know there will be more road noise without carpet, but I just don't like it. No nobody does it. You're going to feel more vibration through the floor, hear a lot more noise, and lose a lot of temperature insulation. And it's going to look like poo poo, so I hope you plan to drive this car until the wheels fall off. There's a lot of stuff hidden under carpets, so you might also be dealing with wiring and poo poo, too. Edit: As someone who bedlined the interior of a Jeep, I'm confident that option will also look like hairy rear end in your sports car.
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Jan 3, 2016 19:40
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It might not be about looks. I got tired of cleaning the carpet in my jeep and just threw it away. Now I just pull the drain plugs and hose out the interior. From a purely functional point of view, a bare floor might be easier to deal with. Just, don't put your bare feet on the floor in the summer.
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Jan 3, 2016 19:47
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Have fun in your no carpet car as others have mentioned it's not really a viable option get some weather tec intetior mats and call it a day. Wires for stuff like airbag sensors are run under the carpet so you'll need to fix that so you don't kick em. sound deadening stuff goes under the carpet so enjoy a louder ride. The carpet is also insulation so enjoy a hotter or colder ride Generally it'll look like poo poo inside because car manufacturers give 0 shits about what it looks like under the carpet because it's not generally seen by people, also getting the adhesive etc off will be a bitch. So although you hate carpet fully removing it is a bad choice
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Jan 3, 2016 20:54
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Dissenting opinion: removing your carpet is also Automotive Insanity. Go nuts and tell us what you did.
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Jan 3, 2016 21:49
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I have a 2000 Camry developing what seems like a pain in the rear end electrical problem. I've been reading that Camrys from this time period have issues with the wiring harness that runs to the rear lights getting worn/broken around where it mounts to the driver's side trunk lid hinge. For quite a while, my car has had a dash warning light for the tail/reverse lights (tail lights all work though), but just yesterday something shorted out in a new and exciting way when I went to start up the car. So now sometimes I'll have power with the key in, and as I turn the key to the run & acc positions, but when turning it further to start, sometimes everything dies- no more lights or power to anything. Fiddling with that trunk wiring harness for a while has eventually restored power the few times this has happened this weekend, and I can start the car and everything runs just fine, until presumably whatever is shorting out shorts out again. It looks like there's no easy way to replace whatever wiring is causing the problem, the wiring harness seems to be all one piece in the trunk, and it disappears up behind the driver's side rear seats. It looks like someone took a stab at fixing a similar issue in the past, as I can see the insulation around the harness has been cut open and re-wrapped with electrical tape in a few places, and one of the wires looks like it was soldered back together in one spot near that trunk hinge. Is there a simple way to just replace the whole harness, or does the better solution really involve searching for whatever section of wiring is shorting out and trying to fix it? Either way looks like it'd be pretty obnoxious and labor intensive, but I've really never had to deal with an electrical issue like this before, so I'd like to have a better idea just how big a pain in the rear end this is going to be, and if I should expect it to cost a bunch or what. Reztes fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Jan 4, 2016 |
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Jan 3, 2016 23:48
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Hi UK AI Goons. I have recently got orders to the UK and will be moving from Alaska. Have a 2005 subaru legacy gt with Cobb set up. Its in good shape and runs well. What do I need to do to get my car UK compliant? How much of a pain is it? Have any of you guys imported a car before?
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Jan 4, 2016 01:49
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Back in the day if you were active duty stationed in the UK you didn't have to do anything. When I was a kid we ordered a car through AAFES and it was US-spec, not Euro. Your sponsor should have the current info. Assuming he answers emails/knows he's sponsoring someone.
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Jan 4, 2016 04:06
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Reztes posted:I have a 2000 Camry developing what seems like a pain in the rear end electrical problem. I've been reading that Camrys from this time period have issues with the wiring harness that runs to the rear lights getting worn/broken around where it mounts to the driver's side trunk lid hinge. For quite a while, my car has had a dash warning light for the tail/reverse lights (tail lights all work though), but just yesterday something shorted out in a new and exciting way when I went to start up the car. So now sometimes I'll have power with the key in, and as I turn the key to the run & acc positions, but when turning it further to start, sometimes everything dies- no more lights or power to anything. Fiddling with that trunk wiring harness for a while has eventually restored power the few times this has happened this weekend, and I can start the car and everything runs just fine, until presumably whatever is shorting out shorts out again. I guarantee that the rear lighting harness isn't what's causing it to die. That harness only powers the rear lights, and has nothing to do with the rest of the car. Check your battery cables. I'm betting there's either a lot of corrosion on the terminals at the battery, or one of them is just barely making contact. The fact that fiddling with the harness gets it going is a coincidence, I'd put money on you slamming the trunk shut or bouncing the car around enough to cause whatever's loose at the battery to make contact again.
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Jan 4, 2016 05:39
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some texas redneck posted:I guarantee that the rear lighting harness isn't what's causing it to die. That harness only powers the rear lights, and has nothing to do with the rest of the car. Could also just be the ignition switch. But, like STR said, worst case a trunk harness short would just blow your lighting fuse. So it's probably not that. Check the easy stuff first.
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Jan 4, 2016 06:11
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Ok, I'll try cleaning up the battery terminals tomorrow. The rear harness bit didn't make any sense to me either, that was just the place where I'd seen electrical issues to date, but hey it started afterwards 
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Jan 4, 2016 06:19
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Melthir posted:Hi UK AI Goons. I have recently got orders to the UK and will be moving from Alaska. Have a 2005 subaru legacy gt with Cobb set up. Its in good shape and runs well. What do I need to do to get my car UK compliant? How much of a pain is it? Have any of you guys imported a car before? https://www.gov.uk/importing-vehicles-into-the-uk/overview http://classics.honestjohn.co.uk/insurance/articles/how-to-import-a-classic-car/ quote:If you’re importing a car from outside the European Union (EU), you will need to pay a duty of 10 per cent on the car’s value, plus shipping costs. If the car you’re looking to buy cost you £5000 and shipping a further £1000 on top of that, then you’ll be liable for 10 per cent duty on £6000. On top that, you will pay 17.5 per cent VAT and a customs handling fee of £50, so the total costs for your import will be £6600 +VAT, plus the customs fee – £7805. Given that your car is worth maybe £7k here and will be worth quite a chunk less if you sell it here as the wheel is on the wrong side, this doesn't seem like a great financial option http://www.exchangeandmart.co.uk/used-cars-for-sale/subaru/legacy Plus, driving on the correct side of the road isn't great if you are sitting on the wrong side of the car: our twisty roads and almost all our junctions are going to be become difficult.
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Jan 4, 2016 09:57
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Oddly enough MilitaryOneSource is a decent source of info most of the time. It doesn't answer this specific question, but there's a lot of good info (Lakenheath specific, but most of it is still relevant if you're going elsewhere).
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Jan 4, 2016 16:54
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Question about a 1999 GMC Suburban C1500 5.7 - had an issue where the aftermarket rim decided it no longer wanted to stay attached to the vehicle, and it came off while driving down the road doing 30/35 mph. Towed home, battery died since I was away for a week or so - went to start it after charging the battery and it will run for a few seconds before dying. Is there a fuel pump shutoff I need to reset, or is it another issue? When I switch the ignition to on, I can hear the pump whirring, but it won't run for more than a second or two.
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Jan 4, 2016 23:28
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Just for the record, is the tank empty?
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Jan 5, 2016 03:38
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kid sinister posted:Just for the record, is the tank empty? Nope - but when I came home tonight to try again, it cranked and stayed running. I used a different key, so I'm guessing the security system didn't like the 1st key.
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Jan 5, 2016 04:14
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I know this is a stupid question but I don't know anything about welding. Why are welds often done in small spots as opposed to welding the entire surface area between two parts? Is there a reason? Visually, it looks like the welds would be a weak point example: 
ROFLburger fucked around with this message at 05:24 on Jan 5, 2016 |
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Jan 5, 2016 05:21
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Welding takes time. Time = money. Spot welds are cheaper. If you don't need more strength, then there's no point in welding along the entire edge.
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Jan 5, 2016 05:33
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Plus, it's not just the time it takes to apply the weld. Thin metal warps the more heat you put in it, so you have to do a small section, wait for it to cool, then do another section, and repeat. If you can get away with only doing a few small welds, you can speed that up dramatically.
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Jan 5, 2016 05:37
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I'm shipping my calipers off as a core and the company wants them drained of all fluid. What's a good way of doing that? Anything wrong with cracking open the bleeder valve and running compressed air through there? The calipers are off the car now.
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Jan 5, 2016 06:39
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Brake cleaner + compressed air work fine but protip: put a rag over it or brake fluid will go everywhere.
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Jan 5, 2016 06:47
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So, I have to wait for my boss to bring his code reader in this afternoon, but based on what I've been able to dredge up on google I think one or more of the coil packs is having problems in my 2010 Hyundai Accent. Is there anything special I should know before I try to replace those myself, or is it like the previous models before it where they're right there under the plastic panel? The most recent model I could find on youtube was the 2008.
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Jan 5, 2016 15:02
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Would that not be covered by hyundais crazy long warranty?
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Jan 5, 2016 18:24
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PaintVagrant posted:Would that not be covered by hyundais crazy long warranty? AFAIK it doesn't extend to me, as I'm not the original owner. I got it from my buddy who was moving overseas and didn't want to ship his car.
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Jan 5, 2016 18:59
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2006 Ford mustang Problem: Car dies over night sometimes. So a couple years ago, during the winter, my car started dying over night. I replaced the battery. It kept doing it. I noticed that when I left the car in my garage and had the windows down the battery would last much longer, up to a few days without driving. During the summer the problem would disappear slightly. Even if leaving windows up the car would start last a few days even without driving. I commute a lot to work, about 2 hours daily, and as long as the car is on there's absolutely no problems. Lights work, CD, etc... It was an inconvenience, but since I drive every day and have a garage to park in, for the most part it never really effected me so I had no motivation to get it checked/fixed. Flash forward to recent history, and the problems gotten worse. Sometimes it just dies even if I park it at 10 PM (after 30 + minutes of driving) and go out to start it at 9 AM. This is obviously a bigger inconvenience as it seems as if I have to drive it every 10-12 hours or I have to borrow my wife's car to jump it. Obviously there's some type of parasitic drain going on so I go to Autozone today to buy a voltmeter to go through each and every fuse. While there I just decide to have the alternator checked anyways since it's free. Came up with a bad diode. Now before I just go have the alternator fixed or replaced, I wanted to ask here if anyone thinks there could be another problem. So quick bullet-list: 1. Once started it runs fine. Even with lights on and phone charger plugged in and long distance driving. This is why I never thought it was the alternator to begin with. 2. Having windows down increases life span dramatically. There is a bit of automation here obviously as the windows go down a bit when opening the door, and then raise back up when the door is closed. However, even having them down completely does not cure the problem, just delays it. 3. Problem is almost unnoticeable during summer. Indeed I didn't have to jump it a single time over this past summer. 4. When I have to jump it, once the engine is started I can immediately turn it off and it will start no problems again. Could there both be a parasitic drain AND a bad diode? Could having to jump start the car bunches of times due to parasitic drain caused by bad fuse have damaged the diode? So if I replace or fix the alternator the problem will just come back? I don't have a third car, and with my long daily commute it's hard for me to just take my car to a shop and leave it there for an extended period of time.
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Jan 5, 2016 21:44
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Wheel chat: repair my banged up alloys ($100-$150 each) or keep em and buy refurbs of unknown provenance off eBay ($160-$170 each; rockauto is out of keystone sourced wheels)
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Jan 6, 2016 21:40
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I dont know what kind of car you drive, but you should buy some soft 8s for it.
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Jan 6, 2016 21:49
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Cage posted:I dont know what kind of car you drive, but you should buy some soft 8s for it. Man you can't just recommend soft 8s for everything. D windows look way better on some cars.
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Jan 6, 2016 22:22
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Thats true, plus sometimes you get that kickin red and blue stripe.
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Jan 6, 2016 22:23
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Enourmo posted:Man you can't just recommend soft 8s for everything. Just look at how wrong this guy is
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Jan 7, 2016 07:20
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