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I skip gears on the way down. Usually from 6th to 3rd. In my car, I can get pretty slow in 3rd when coming to a stop so usually I'll just make the one down shift and call it good before putting it in neutral for the last little bit of deceleration. This keeps me in gear for the majority of the time the car is moving, which I prefer to riding the clutch or having it in neutral for most of the deceleration. I'm certain my rev matching isn't perfect enough to avoid all extra wear, but I think I do a pretty good job most of the time. The Ferret King fucked around with this message at 07:32 on May 19, 2016 |
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May 19, 2016 07:30
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I know that Limited Slip Differentials act during braking to help maintain traction (basically, it's harder to lock up tires with an LSD between them under braking than it otherwise would be), but I'm curious if auto-locking differentials like the Lock-Rite or Detroit would do the same. It makes sense, as they are bidirectional, but ... do they?
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May 19, 2016 18:02
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Krakkles posted:I know that Limited Slip Differentials act during braking to help maintain traction (basically, it's harder to lock up tires with an LSD between them under braking than it otherwise would be), but I'm curious if auto-locking differentials like the Lock-Rite or Detroit would do the same. It makes sense, as they are bidirectional, but ... do they? Those generally only lock up when power is applied from the engine. For example, you are perfectly ok putting one in the front differential of a Jeep and they won't lock up until you put it in 4wd. Engine braking should induce lock-up as well. Auto-lockers are generally not good for road use, though, and can create dangerous handling characteristics in the rain in addition to harsh engagement.
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May 19, 2016 18:58
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Krakkles posted:I know that Limited Slip Differentials act during braking to help maintain traction (basically, it's harder to lock up tires with an LSD between them under braking than it otherwise would be), but I'm curious if auto-locking differentials like the Lock-Rite or Detroit would do the same. It makes sense, as they are bidirectional, but ... do they? Depends on design. Eaton on a chevy truck goes off rpm different between wheels when accelerating and slipping. Lockers are finicky on pavement since they lock so easy. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8k-LmnS3ED0
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May 19, 2016 23:12
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Why does anybody read Peter Egan, or give him a job? His entire career seems to boil down to bragging about how great it is to be 174 years old and incredibly rich with unlimited time and resources to work on and play with British sports cars all day every day forever.
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May 20, 2016 03:44
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May 20, 2016 03:59
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So for some reason I've been reading about rust on cars instead of doing my drat thesis. I noticed that pretty much every video about rust repair on YouTube has > 25% dislikes. From what I gather it's (when it's not clearly a hack job) because of not removing the panel that rusted, regardless of if it's cleaned or not. But at the same time I've seen guides on websites where they wire brush it / scrape it, chemically treat it, wire brush it / scrape it, chemically treat it, et.c. until all rust (including the rust in the pitting) is gone, then they treat it again to protect corrosion while they work on it. After that they epoxy it then paint. This was an area the size of maybe 4x4cm on a trunk. Wouldn't this work fine? Also, what's a good way to keep rust away from the underside of a car? Besides cleaning it during the winter, I've heard different stories. In one camp they are all for the undercoating and treating it, while in the other they say that all this does it make it look nice, while rust grows inside the coating and it's harder to spot. Then there is stuff like Dinitrol which seem to work.
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May 20, 2016 08:46
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Christobevii3 posted:Depends on design. Eaton on a chevy truck goes off rpm different between wheels when accelerating and slipping. Lockers are finicky on pavement since they lock so easy. Is it just me or does it seem fishy that they take the first 2 trucks real slow and then sort of barrel through with the old ford?
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May 20, 2016 10:49
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MrOnBicycle posted:Also, what's a good way to keep rust away from the underside of a car? Besides cleaning it during the winter, I've heard different stories. In one camp they are all for the undercoating and treating it, while in the other they say that all this does it make it look nice, while rust grows inside the coating and it's harder to spot. Then there is stuff like Dinitrol which seem to work. Some vehicles are easier to undercoat than others. My 2014 Sierra has grease spots for the underside and stuff to get inside the structure too, I know they use to drill holes to get the grease inside so you if have a small vehicle it might be hard to get the grease everywhere it needs to be. I'm no expert though and this is just from my own personal experience
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May 20, 2016 11:07
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MrOnBicycle posted:
I used this spray stuff called Fluid Film on the underside my 2013 Prius C. - it's a very oily lanolin-based stuff that protects the metal from rusting. I sprayed it on the underside of the car - every chassis and suspension bolt head. Sprayed the tie-rod threads too to make them easier to adjust. So far it has worked VERY well. Even after two years - the coating is still there.
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May 20, 2016 12:19
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My 99 camrys engine went bad Saturday, (only 154k miles on it, regular service, this came as a shock) I'm probably scrapping it. For a quick replacement I'm looking at $2000 1998 Subaru Outback with 147k miles on it, I'm a little worried about the automatic transmission as it's a little chunky when switching from gear to gear in a test drive around the block. is their anything I can do to see how much life is left in it? It also has a rear differential problem which makes the wheel pop on tight turns, but seeing as I'm using this for delivering pizzas I'm not super concerned - I've read on the internet that it's a livable issue. anyways, do y'all think I could get a year out of this car without any major services? at $2000 I'm thinking this is the way to go. the same mechanic I go to is the one who serviced it and is selling, they told me it would for sure go another 30,000 miles. tacosupreme fucked around with this message at 15:00 on May 20, 2016 |
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May 20, 2016 14:37
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Of the two scrap yards in my town, One called it quits and is having a liquidation auction Sunday. My question is what should I look for. They are selling everything. https://www.greatnorthauction.com/action-auto-parts-auction-sunday-may-22nd.html My fleet is currently: Ford (2) 1970,71 F250 trucks. A 2003 6.0 super duty. Explorer Toyota's 03 highlander. 94 22re 4x4. 97 t100 99 Civic I've got a mostly complete home shop so not much interested in tools.
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May 20, 2016 17:49
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spankmeister posted:Is it just me or does it seem fishy that they take the first 2 trucks real slow and then sort of barrel through with the old ford? They don't want you to hear the posi lock bang noise
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May 21, 2016 00:14
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Christobevii3 posted:They don't want you to hear the posi lock bang noise So, I appreciate the input, but I don't know that I've got a clear answer. I currently daily drive a Cherokee with front and rear auto-lockers, so I'm aware of the onroad handling characteristics, which I think are being overstated a bit. I know that they're not supposed to do anything without power applied, but I don't think 10.5" of rubber alone stopped me from locking up. (And no, I don't think the brakes are underpowered - it's well-maintained four wheel disc, with several upgraded bits.) The situation that led to this question was a panic stop that had me coming out of the seat, standing on the brakes, and honestly expecting it to lock - but it didn't. Is 10.5" of rubber on ~4000lb vehicle more adequate than I think it is, or is it possible the lockers did more than I expected?
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May 21, 2016 04:20
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You have enough rubber. Lockers will cause you more problems parking in tight spaces.
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May 21, 2016 04:44
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Christobevii3 posted:You have enough rubber. Lockers will cause you more problems parking in tight spaces.
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May 21, 2016 05:07
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I've mostly had experience with richmond positrac from long ago since lockers aren't as common. So I may be dated on the info then. Sorry?
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May 21, 2016 05:31
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MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of driving tests, is this representative for a typical drivers license test in the US? This test is, with all certainty, about twice as long as the one I took. There is no way in hell my road test was more than ten minutes, including doing a five-point turn instead of three-point because I was taking it in a Suburban. Pryor on Fire posted:The argument I heard against engine braking modern cars several times is simply that brakes nowadays are reliable and cheap to replace, and the potential to do more costly wear to your transmission is there, especially if you don't rev match on the down shift. Slavvy posted:OK I'll rephrase: going down through the gears every time you slow down wears your clutch out faster than just using the brakes all the way and shifting down when the engine starts to hit idle. Yes, downshifting through every gear every time you stop is going to place some incremental amount of extra wear on the transmission and clutch - but unless you're being a total hack about it, I'd be shocked if it made 5,000 miles difference in the life of either. Additionally, the original question included this bit: Pryor on Fire posted:I have been told that engine braking is a big no no on modern cars, as well as mandatory for safety if you do a lot of mountain driving. Which is it? On level ground, there's not much purpose to engine braking in any way beyond "let off the gas, shift to a lower gear or neutral just before the engine starts to bog". Done properly it won't hurt anything but it doesn't really help. On the other hand, mountain driving puts a lot more strain on your brakes, especially if by mountain you mean something like this:  That's the type of downhill where you can either downshift to the appropriate gear once, maybe twice, and leave it there and just modulate the throttle to maintain speed. Or you can leave it in high gear and literally be on the brakes at some varying amount for about 20 miles continuously. Modern brakes might not actually overheat in that situation but you are definitely putting a lot of wear on them. Krakkles posted:The situation that led to this question was a panic stop that had me coming out of the seat, standing on the brakes, and honestly expecting it to lock - but it didn't. Is 10.5" of rubber on ~4000lb vehicle more adequate than I think it is, or is it possible the lockers did more than I expected? I don't think lockers would make that much difference in a panic stop. You're still going to unload the rear axle, and unless you were turning hard at the same time, you're probably not just going to lock one rear or the other. I'm going to lean towards that even with the upgrades, your brakes might be a bit underperforming for the weight / size of tires you have on it compared to stock. Either that or you weren't on them as hard as you thought you were.
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May 21, 2016 06:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:This test is, with all certainty, about twice as long as the one I took. There is no way in hell my road test was more than ten minutes, including doing a five-point turn instead of three-point because I was taking it in a Suburban. I... didn't even have to take a driving test. Back then at least (mid 90s), if you took drivers ed, you only had to do the written test at the DMV.  One thing I've always wondered about engine braking vs downhill - at what point do the RPMs get too high? The gearing in the car I have now is tall enough that I have to drop into 3rd (even 2nd if it's a steep enough hill) to get any real engine braking on hills, and I've always gotten nervous if the engine is spending significant time at higher RPMs (4000+). I have no problem winding it out, I just worry about oil starvation etc if it's sitting at, say, 5k, for more than 15 seconds or so. There's a few hills in my home town where I didn't dare go down them in any gear higher than 1st - if I used 2nd I'd be doing 45+ by the time I was halfway down (5 speed manual). fake edit: found one of them on google streetview. It's not San Francisco, but steep enough to where the garage starts slightly below street level, and by the time you get to the other end of the (2 story) house, the road is higher than the roof. 
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:21 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 07:19
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Unless you've got some wierdo dry sump setup with an electric pump, the oil pump is driven by crankshaft rotation, whether that rotation is driven by gasoline or by the car's momentum via the transmission doesn't matter. It's making the same oil pressure at 5k regardless. E: If anything it's less strain on the bearings, since there's no force on the expansion stroke trying to drive the journals through the oil film.
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May 21, 2016 07:40
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Even on a dry sump the pump should still be mechanically linked to the crank in some way. If your car would have oiling problems under prolonged high-RPM high vacuum, it would have the same or worse oiling problems under WOT.
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May 21, 2016 07:54
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Plain jane GM 2.2L Ecotec. Nothing special at all about it except it uses about 1 quart of oil between loooong oil changes (8-11k, whenever the change oil message comes up - holds 5 qts total). Engines with 150k on them are supposed to use some oil, but this thing is doing better than a lot of brand new cars when it comes to oil use. I'm guessing the original owner was very religious about oil changes.
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May 21, 2016 08:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I know a service writer at a Jeep dealership in Tasmania and he says for the majority of their customers, they're replacing front pads every 10,000km, and rotors every 20k.
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May 21, 2016 11:03
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Hahah 6% grade I wish, my daily mountain driving is way steeper than that.
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May 21, 2016 16:01
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MrOnBicycle posted:Speaking of driving tests, is this representative for a typical drivers license test in the US? I will admit to not watching the full 17 minutes of that video, but my driving test (Minnesota) was fairly comprehensive. Several different parking situations, including parallel, 90° back, regular pull in; regular driving including lane changes on actual streets, and demonstrating familiarity with the car and its controls. It wasn't like a Finnish test or anything but it went through the basic maneuvers and showed the instructor that I wasn't an anxious mess on the road.
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May 21, 2016 16:31
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Is it worth me buying and fitting my own head unit in a 1999 Honda CRV? Just want some non- cassette music, but have never done any electrical or car work before. Should I cave and take it to a pro? 
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May 21, 2016 16:45
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Krakkles posted:It did scare me the first couple times. Now I just think it's cool. If you're expecting your lockers to help with braking by keeping one side from skidding, they probably don't. Each design varies in how it behaves, but you need a certain minimum torque input and usually some wheel speed difference to engage them. So, unless you're downshifting hard while braking, you shouldn't expect locker engagement. If you're asking if your brakes are undersized for your vehicle because you couldn't brake hard enough to lock your tires up, then they probably are. Auto lockers aren't going to do poo poo to help here, they only force your wheels to turn at the same rate. Any time someone asks about auto lockers, we always mention poor road manners because they can quickly go from oversteer to understeer and vice-versa, depending on your loading, throttle position, rain, steering, etc., which can require some skill to counter.
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May 21, 2016 17:17
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bigfatdynamo posted:Is it worth me buying and fitting my own head unit in a 1999 Honda CRV? Just want some non- cassette music, but have never done any electrical or car work before. Should I cave and take it to a pro? It's pretty easy to install it yourself. All you need in addition to the head unit is an adapter harness, a decent set of crimpers, and some crimps. The wire colors in the adapter harness should match the color of the wires in the harness that comes with the head unit you buy, so all you have to do is take out the old stereo, crimp the matching wires together, plug the completed harness into the car's wiring and the head unit, and slide the new head unit into the dash. You might need some additional parts if the existing stereo is double-DIN and the one you buy is single-DIN, but that's the gist of the process.
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May 21, 2016 17:37
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A stereo on an old car is the absolute perfect starter project. It's how I started and how I've gotten friends to start basic repairs. New cars complicate things, but that's 2010+.
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May 21, 2016 19:23
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Hot Karl Marx posted:Some vehicles are easier to undercoat than others. My 2014 Sierra has grease spots for the underside and stuff to get inside the structure too, I know they use to drill holes to get the grease inside so you if have a small vehicle it might be hard to get the grease everywhere it needs to be. I'm no expert though and this is just from my own personal experience 0toShifty posted:I used this spray stuff called Fluid Film on the underside my 2013 Prius C. - it's a very oily lanolin-based stuff that protects the metal from rusting. I sprayed it on the underside of the car - every chassis and suspension bolt head. Sprayed the tie-rod threads too to make them easier to adjust. So far it has worked VERY well. Even after two years - the coating is still there. Thanks for the info guys. I'll check out Fluid Film. I finally found an Alfa 156, that the owner put through a Dinitrol rust protection thing when he bought it 5 years ago. I don't know if that a local thing or exists in the US / rest of Europe, but basically they keep the car for a couple of days, inspect it, spray anti corrosion poo poo inside all the cavities and protect the underside. The owner hasn't noticed any rust so far. If I buy it, I'd like to keep it as free of rust as possible. But I'm not spending 1/5-1/3 of the cars value on rust protection if I can help it, which is why I'm researching rust protection. Doesn't help that I live in a country that sees snowy winters, and salted roads. Now I just gotta go see the car and fail miserably at haggling and pay too much.
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May 21, 2016 19:44
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Hi everyone, I'd post this in the legal thread, but I can't seem to find it. Let me start by saying that this all would have been avoidable if I had just done my homework. I was young, dumb and trusting. Yesterday I went out car shopping and to see how much I'd get for my trade in, and I was informed that my car had structural damage and it's value was automatically halved. This was news to me. The dealer I bought the car from told me that the car had a clean title and had passed all the inspections. I was informed that since it was unannounced I might be able to get the original dealer to buy back the car for full price, or seek legal action if that falls through. Before I go through the effort of finding a lawyer, I thought that I should ask here. Things of possible importance: I'm located in Oregon, Multnomah county if it matters. I bought the car just under 4 years ago. When I purchased the car, I was told that it had a clean title and passed inspection. The title itself doesn't have any brands on it. Looking at the purchase agreement, it says that the car is sold as-is. Let me know if I you have any other questions. Thanks. *edit* I have two different reports saying that the auction house the dealer bought the car from announced that the car had structural damage. Siffl fucked around with this message at 23:02 on May 21, 2016 |
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May 21, 2016 22:51
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Take it somewhere else for a second opinion.
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May 21, 2016 22:52
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Godholio posted:Take it somewhere else for a second opinion. I have 2 different reports saying that the auction house the deal bought the car from announced that the car had structural damage.
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May 21, 2016 22:57
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Someone sat on my car: Obviously no-one can give me a quote from a picture on the internet, but from a glance what do you think I am looking at here? Is this fixable by popping it out or more like a new hood?
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May 21, 2016 23:03
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I'd check with a paintless dent repair guy first, it's not too big and the paint wasn't damaged from what's visible in the picture. Just Google "[your city] paintless dent repair." If they can fix it it will be much cheaper than a traditional bodyshop.
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May 21, 2016 23:11
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Geoj posted:I'd check with a paintless dent repair guy first, it's not too big and the paint wasn't damaged from what's visible in the picture. PDR right on the edge of the metal is going to be tough. I'd agree that would be the first route to check into, but don't be surprised if they all turn you away. The edge of a metal body panel is seriously tough to work on and recreate the line without breaking the paint from a PDR perspective. If you can't PDR it, probably 3 hours repair. $800ish all in I would wager. Siffl posted:Hi everyone, Structural damage doesn't have anything to do with your title. If the cars damage wasn't deemed enough to total it, then the repairs are done and the clean title is still in effect. This is really a case of buyer beware. If you had a document saying the car had no damage, then you might have a case, but I can't see how buying a presumably as is car has any recourse to pursue for damages. At the end of the day it's on the buyer to confirm the vehicle is in a satisfactory enough condition for them to purchase.
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May 22, 2016 01:18
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Wife and I are planning our trip to Italy, what awesome car stuff should I plan the trip around?
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May 22, 2016 01:48
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Siffl posted:Hi everyone, Adding to what Bovril said, sorry you had to learn this way. Unless you're buying off a reputable dealer (and sometimes even then...) it pays to pull a carfax/autocheck yourself. You'll at least get a sense of amount of damage since a lot is reported as minor/moderate/severe as well as location on the car so you can go digging for problems.
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May 22, 2016 02:43
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Always get a pre purchase inspection from a guy or gal you trust. The $50 can save you 1000s
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May 22, 2016 03:27
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ultrabay2000 posted:Someone sat on my car: Find this guy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym_P2kQAzSQ Seriously though, go find a good one and see what they say. Was it someone you know that sat on it, or the usual drunk idiots that decide vandalize peoples cars? Had some people go up on my dads DS3 to bend off the antenna for some dumb reason. That poor car got so much poo poo done to it when it was just parked waiting to be collected for end of lease. I think my dad had to repair it twice, an he was out of country as well so he couldn't really do much about it. The lease people refused to take it in earlier. Can even see the drat dent on google maps...
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May 22, 2016 11:43
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