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deratomicdog posted:Can someone give me a list of stuff to do to a car that has been parked for 8 years? Its a 92 nissan sentra, been parked for 8 years. It needs a new battery, oil change, coolant, tires, brakes bled. Is there some additive I can add to the gas tank or am I going to need to drain the gas out somehow? It has been parked in a garage it's entire life just hasn't been started in 8 years. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1BiFpSkMbNQ Drain the gas and use it in your leaf blower While you are doing this, change the fuel filters.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 14:47 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 21:57 |
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Should deratomic God do anything proactive about the heater core?
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 15:28 |
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I'd change the plugs as well
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 15:44 |
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deratomicdog posted:Can someone give me a list of stuff to do to a car that has been parked for 8 years? Its a 92 nissan sentra, been parked for 8 years. It needs a new battery, oil change, coolant, tires, brakes bled. Is there some additive I can add to the gas tank or am I going to need to drain the gas out somehow? It has been parked in a garage it's entire life just hasn't been started in 8 years. For the gasoline, if there's not much in the tank I'm a fan of the Dilution Solution, just fill it up with fresh gas. Otherwise siphon it out and let it evaporate, I hate using poo poo gas in small engines because you can't dilute it with good stuff.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 18:30 |
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PainterofCrap posted:Hold up! Before you start beating on the hood panel, let's be sure it's actually bent, and not out of alignment. I got the cable latch replaced, feels like quite a victory since it's been like that for about 3 years and it also let me replace the busted grill I also spent a puzzled minute wondering how I was going to route the cable so that it was juuust the right length so that the mechanism would latch and unlatch from the 2 inches of movement on the switch - but then of course I saw that it's designed to be fasted to the mechanism, thank you, engineers from 30 years ago. The hood does latch and unlatch in it's current condition, so that's something. As for the hood itself:
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 18:32 |
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deratomicdog posted:Can someone give me a list of stuff to do to a car that has been parked for 8 years? Its a 92 nissan sentra, been parked for 8 years. It needs a new battery, oil change, coolant, tires, brakes bled. Is there some additive I can add to the gas tank or am I going to need to drain the gas out somehow? It has been parked in a garage it's entire life just hasn't been started in 8 years. Check all the hoses too in addition to what everyone else said.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 18:32 |
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After you fill it all up and start it, buy a can or two of seafoam and put some in your gas, oil, and transmission. It may smoke a lot and drive a little rough at first. Put 100 miles on it as quick as possible then change the oil, oil filter, trans fluid and trans filter. Id do a can in the gas (less than a qtr tank of gas makes this more effective) and split another can for engine and tranny. Thatll basically break down and burn off the gunk or crap that accumulated. Even if you dont use seafoam i would drive it for a couple hundred miles then change both oils and filters because you want to get any crap that breaks loose out. If you google how to seafoam your car you will of course get the method to suck it into the vac lines and create a massive smoke cloud. Its fine to do this, i don't think its necessary here though. Its kinda hilarious but if you do it in a neighborhood there is a good chance the fire department will show up and you have to clear the computer becuase it will interpret it as a problem. Water imo is exactly as effective for blowing out the cylinders so thats another option. I personally would do it because its pretty easy so why not, but again im really not joking about how massive of a smoke cloud you will make. You may blanket your entire block in thick smoke.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 18:55 |
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StormDrain posted:For the gasoline, if there's not much in the tank I'm a fan of the Dilution Solution, just fill it up with fresh gas. Otherwise siphon it out and let it evaporate, I hate using poo poo gas in small engines because you can't dilute it with good stuff.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 19:08 |
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DogonCrook posted:After you fill it all up and start it, buy a can or two of seafoam and put some in your gas, oil, and transmission. It may smoke a lot and drive a little rough at first. Put 100 miles on it as quick as possible then change the oil, oil filter, trans fluid and trans filter. Id do a can in the gas (less than a qtr tank of gas makes this more effective) and split another can for engine and tranny. Wait, seafoam in the trans fluid? You know on most automatics, you only get about 1/3 of the fluid out when you drain them, right?
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 19:10 |
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Yeah its going to thin the oil and break stuff down and then heat up breaking down more and burn off or evaporate the first time it heats so it only actually works for a couple mins. By the time you need the thicker oil itll all be gone. The old school way is to just pour gas in there but people generally balk at the idea so i recommend seafoam now lol. There are instructions for it on the seafoam site and on the can i believe. Pro tip if ypu can heat a part to 200-250 in an oven and then soak it in seafoam all the gunk will just fall off. It works incredibly well when its hot. E: oh yeah and to be clear you need to get all the crap it blows free out. If it wont fully drain it needs a thorough flush ro get the deposits out. Itll need this whether you seafoam or not imo. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Aug 6, 2017 |
# ? Aug 6, 2017 19:19 |
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Apparently they make a trans specific fluid now. Imo its the same thing and they are branding it because there is a hesitation with consumers ie "how could it work on engine and trans?" Type disbelief. Im not convinced any of this is better than just water and gas. Seafoam as a cleaner is pricey but really drat good. Their deep creep is a great product too for cleaning as well especially intake tracts. Its all kinda pricey to use constantly though. But if you have something you cant get into to clean and it can handle heat, put it in the oven, soak it in deep creep overnight, its surprisingly effective on poo poo i would normally give up on. E:i looked it up the trans specific fluid is the exact same ingredients in adifferent concentrations. The trans fluid stuff is designed to hang around longer giving the transmission more time to warm up before it cooks off. I actually would use the trans specific fluid. As i said before this stuff works noticeably better while heated, so it makes sense. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 20:13 on Aug 6, 2017 |
# ? Aug 6, 2017 19:29 |
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Has anyone put a grant steering wheel on a car that had one as a stock option? Do i actually need the adapter? Its an old mopar if it matters.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 20:35 |
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How the hell do I pull a fuse out of the fuse box? Tweezers don't gripe enough and pliers end up crushing the plastic
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 21:20 |
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lol internet. posted:How the hell do I pull a fuse out of the fuse box? Tweezers don't gripe enough and pliers end up crushing the plastic There should be a little tool included somewhere, either nestled among the fuses or in the cover. It should look like these.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 21:30 |
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I've rarely had good luck with those. Pliers and a few spare fuses seems to work best for me.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 21:34 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I've rarely had good luck with those. Pliers and a few spare fuses seems to work best for me. Yup. And wider-jawed pliers help, too. Think lineman's pliers or slip-joints. Needlenoses will probably just chew your poo poo up.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 22:47 |
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I use a pair of old forceps for difficult fuses.
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# ? Aug 6, 2017 22:58 |
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Help me out here, hivemind (I can't get a free moment to think about it in earnest): On a sliding brake caliper, can you diagnose a stuck pin vs a non-retracting caliper piston based on which pad is worn to poo poo? I.e. does a stuck pin wear the inside prematurely while a piston wears the outside (or both) prematurely? Or the opposite? Is there a telltale? Seems typing this out has given me the time to think this out- "no" is the answer that I'm arriving at. But am I missing something?
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 01:45 |
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glyph posted:Help me out here, hivemind (I can't get a free moment to think about it in earnest): Most sliding calipers have the pistons in just one side, and slide along the slide pins to keep the disc centered between the pads, right? To me, that would mean that a sticking slide would cause one side (opposite the piston, so probably the outside pad) to wear faster, whereas a non-retracting piston would cause both pads to be in contact, and thus wear both of them. Right? Or of it's a two-piston caliper (with both pistons on the same side) having one of them stick would cause the pads to both wear slanted, I think. I'm just going off of a mental idea of how things work, since I don't have any disc brakes, so someone who has more firsthand knowledge might have a clearer picture.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 01:51 |
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A stuck pin will make the inside pad wear out faster. Since the caliper can't slide, there's no mechanism to apply force to the outside pad, so it stops wearing. Non-retracting piston would manifest as a pull toward the side in question, especially right after releasing the brakes. If the slide is lubed, they'll still wear evenly, though. A sticking piston you'll usually also be able to see in the form of heat spots or discoloration on the rotor. Whole lotta extra heat getting dumped into it.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 05:55 |
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Enourmo posted:A stuck pin will make the inside pad wear out faster. Since the caliper can't slide, there's no mechanism to apply force to the outside pad, so it stops wearing. That makes sense, I was thinking of it sticking in a position where it would drag the outside pad until it wears down. Which is dumb, because it would quickly self-clearance and then stop wearing any further. Seems like a stuck piston would act like a dragging shoe, where you'd be able to tell by touching the wheel and seeing if you have skin left on your finger afterwards.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 08:04 |
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Jack B Nimble posted:I got the cable latch replaced, feels like quite a victory since it's been like that for about 3 years and it also let me replace the busted grill I also spent a puzzled minute wondering how I was going to route the cable so that it was juuust the right length so that the mechanism would latch and unlatch from the 2 inches of movement on the switch - but then of course I saw that it's designed to be fasted to the mechanism, thank you, engineers from 30 years ago. Uh, hood's good & pranged, whale away on that all day, you might get lucky. Then hit a salvage yard for a new hood when you can.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 14:13 |
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My wife and I are moving across country from NY where we don't have cars to La where we will need cars in about a month. I will 85% more than likely going there, but she is quitting her job here and will have to find one out there. I am done working/working on getting something out there(I'm a chef so I have to be out there to do tastings/interview so I'm working on setting up interviews ) Our credit scores: pretty lovely around 630(student loans) We are gonna get one around here and drive over. She is getting hers first while she is still working. Most of our cash is tied up in the move. What is the most painless way of getting a car assuming whatever we get we will pay off as soon as possible? Go to a bank? Online loans? Do you have any good recommendations? Getting financing at a dealership? We both want something inexpensive and reliable that can get us from a to b out there. We just have no idea where to start.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 16:12 |
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cods posted:My wife and I are moving across country from NY where we don't have cars to La where we will need cars in about a month. You need to think a bit more on this. I think the most important piece of missing info is budget. Once you have that, I think you can start thinking about year/make/model. Do you want a subcompact, compact, midsize sedan, crossover? I would suggest looking at reliable extremely mass market cars, like the Accord, Camry, and Civic. Once you have a budget look at the years that align with that budget. Start with https://www.cars.com and focus on dealerships that have a make attached to the name, like Bob Loblaw Nissan. Only look at cars with a "Free Carfax" link (not "Get Carfax") take a look and verify there's no accident history or funny business. As far as financing, check with your bank to see what they offer. I think the dealership is a good starting point, have them run a loan request for a few banks and they'll come back with interest rates they can get you. Compare those to typical rates you can find on Google to verify you're not getting screwed. Check out the AI/BFC Car Buying Megathread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538 Michael Scott fucked around with this message at 17:13 on Aug 7, 2017 |
# ? Aug 7, 2017 16:28 |
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Fixed it in 30 seconds by standing on the hood and stomping. Foot is best because it's a larger and softer surface than a hammer, maybe I can bondo the two dents later but the hood is flat and won't let in water, so this is a win.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 17:19 |
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I'm going to look at a 1988 Toyota van, similar to the ones talked about here - https://autofrei.wordpress.com/2011/04/12/fascination-of-the-boring-1983-1989-toyota-van/ Without knowing any details, are there any known issues with these vans I should look for?
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 20:42 |
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cods posted:We are gonna get one around here and drive over. I'd suggest not doing that, because an east coast car is going to be a rusty piece of crap compared to a California car of the same year. Unless you're buying brand new, for some reason. But, like Michael Scott implied, how easy this is all going to be will depend on what you're looking for and what your budget is.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 22:06 |
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And if you're buying brand new, you will be unable to register your non-CA-smog-compliant car in CA if you have already become a CA resident, so be careful. A car you bring to CA from another state to register, has to either comply with CARB or have over 7500 miles on it. See: https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?1dmy&urile=wcm:path:/dmv_content_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29 You can get around this limitation by first registering the car in your non-CA home state, and then bringing proof of that registration to CA: quote:If you are moving to California from another state, you may register a new 49-state vehicle if it was first registered by you in your home state, or for military personnel, in the last state of your military service. When applying for vehicle registration in California, you must provide evidence that the vehicle was registered. That said yeah any car that has seen a couple winters in the northeast will be in worse condition than the same car with the same miles from CA.
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# ? Aug 7, 2017 22:19 |
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Aside from a big socket for the axel nut, a tie rod separator, and a few cotter pins for reinstallation, will I need any special tools or finesse if I'm removing the front hubs from a '96 Starlet? (Repair manual is unavailable, but according to sources it shares most of its suspension components with Tercels/Paseos of the same vintage.) While I'm in there I've got an outer CV boot to replace on one side. I've got a socket set, breaker bar, jack stands, and a torque wrench at home already. To my surprise, the Automotive program at work can't actually work on cars anymore (, guess a kid hurt themselves or something), but I reckon if I can bring them the hubs, they can press the old wheel bearings out and fit it with new ones. Worst case, I can borrow the tools I need and at least save myself some labour charges at a shop. I have the bearings and CV boot already, and can leave the car up on jack stands for a few days if I need to. Also, does anyone have suggestions for a car other than Corollas I could look for to scavenge wheels (in Australia)? It's a 4x100 stud pattern, looking for 37-39 offset. The wheels on it now are 13", according to Starlet forums it can go up to 15's without needing to modify any body panels*. Corollas seem to be my best bet as they're pretty common, but looking to expand my search net. *But, how does one recalibrate a speedo? edit: is a Dremel a good tool to buy for grinding off the occasional bolt and such? Considering getting one for other projects, and I know they're good for polishing metal with the right attachments, wondering about other usefulness. Any models to avoid? Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 02:35 on Aug 8, 2017 |
# ? Aug 8, 2017 02:18 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Aside from a big socket for the axel nut, a tie rod separator, and a few cotter pins for reinstallation, will I need any special tools or finesse if I'm removing the front hubs from a '96 Starlet? (Repair manual is unavailable, but according to sources it shares most of its suspension components with Tercels/Paseos of the same vintage.) While I'm in there I've got an outer CV boot to replace on one side. I've got a socket set, breaker bar, jack stands, and a torque wrench at home already. Bend the needle lol. An autometer gps gauge is probably the cheapest easist way. You may be able to wire a gps receiver to or swap the guts of the original gauge with the autometer but it really depends on how they made the gauge cluster on that car. DogonCrook fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Aug 8, 2017 |
# ? Aug 8, 2017 02:44 |
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DogonCrook posted:Bend the needle lol. I assume those still have a mechanical speedo, so there should be different gears you can get for the trans end of the cable to bring it back within reason. That's assuming that you can't find a tire size that will be the same overall diameter as your old set.
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 08:41 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Also, does anyone have suggestions for a car other than Corollas I could look for to scavenge wheels (in Australia)? It's a 4x100 stud pattern, looking for 37-39 offset. The wheels on it now are 13", according to Starlet forums it can go up to 15's without needing to modify any body panels*. Corollas seem to be my best bet as they're pretty common, but looking to expand my search net. 1992-2000 Honda Civics/1990-2001 Integras - the higher trims came with a 14" on Civics (at least in the US) and 15" on later Integras. The offset on stock wheels might be a little more than what you're looking for (I think it's around +45), unless you find someone selling a set of aftermarket wheels. 1986-1989 Honda Accords used the same bolt/bore/offset as the others I mentioned, but most of them shipped with 13's (alloys were 14"). 88-91 Civics also ran the same, but they were almost universally 13's (in the US anyway) unless someone slapped aftermarket wheels on. Center bore may be different - those all ran 56.1mm, I think.
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 10:03 |
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Ethics_Gradient posted:Aside from a big socket for the axel nut, a tie rod separator, and a few cotter pins for reinstallation, will I need any special tools or finesse if I'm removing the front hubs from a '96 Starlet? (Repair manual is unavailable, but according to sources it shares most of its suspension components with Tercels/Paseos of the same vintage.) While I'm in there I've got an outer CV boot to replace on one side. I've got a socket set, breaker bar, jack stands, and a torque wrench at home already. Mazda 323/familia of similar vintage?
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 15:40 |
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Raluek posted:I assume those still have a mechanical speedo, so there should be different gears you can get for the trans end of the cable to bring it back within reason. That's assuming that you can't find a tire size that will be the same overall diameter as your old set. Yeah that would work too. They have cable driven gps units now though, and on older cars its super easy to make the switch but a 96 may not be. The gps units with gauge are down to like 70$ so if its not a pain to install you get an autocalibrated gauge that wont float.
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 19:30 |
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So I've been trying to figure out if this 2011 Civic coupe's issues are an easy fix or it's basically ready to die horribly, anyone ever had experience with these symptoms? 1) It sounds absolutely horrible in reverse while idling and a little bit less so while actually reversing but still pretty bad. Very loud vibrations and rumbling. Subdues noticeably when you put it into drive, but the vibration is present any time you're not on the gas. 2) It has a weird stutter when it decelerates after you let off the gas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4oSHK7diAZs It has a gently caress ton of miles (313k) so yeah maybe the transmission is just dying? edit: no codes or CEL to speak of. i checked with an obd ii reader
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 21:45 |
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I feel like I'm missing something because I don't see/hear anything unusual in that video.
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 22:06 |
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IOwnCalculus posted:I feel like I'm missing something because I don't see/hear anything unusual in that video. It hangs at 2500rpm (0:04).
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 22:13 |
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Razzled posted:So I've been trying to figure out if this 2011 Civic coupe's issues are an easy fix or it's basically ready to die horribly, anyone ever had experience with these symptoms? Number one sounds like motor mounts. In the vid, you are braking heavily right? The revs drop very quickly...
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 22:22 |
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PaintVagrant posted:Number one sounds like motor mounts. In the vid, you are braking heavily right? The revs drop very quickly... 0% brakes, just went from accelerating to foot completely off the gas. And yeah after googling a bit, 1) does sound like the passenger side motor mount
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 22:23 |
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# ? Apr 28, 2024 21:57 |
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Razzled posted:0% brakes, just went from accelerating to foot completely off the gas. And yeah after googling a bit, 1) does sound like the passenger side motor mount Thats pretty unusual behavior for an automatic transmission. The revs usually float/hang much more than that, it acted almost like it was shifted into neutral.
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# ? Aug 8, 2017 22:37 |