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theHUNGERian posted:Is there a life hack that allows me to turn on the air pump at a gas station without having to beg the attendant for it? Electric powered air pumps are about $20.
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Nov 10, 2019 05:54
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Don't trust the gauges on them, even if it's those Xact air digital ones. I had one go 4 psi low on it. In California they're free if you're a customer, the attendant can just push a button.
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Nov 10, 2019 05:56
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Charles posted:Don't trust the gauges on them, even if it's those Xact air digital ones. I had one go 4 psi low on it. Yeah, my electric pump's gauge reads vastly different values based on how you position the pump, so I don't trust it's reading at all. Well, they are supposed to be free, but often aren't. I am a paying customer, but I am tired of having to bug the attendant. But I guess that's what I will do. The Door Frame posted:Quarters usually do it for me Anybody who doesn't accept my credit card or paypal ain't getting my money.
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Nov 10, 2019 06:00
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If you're in CA the law states there's a 1 800 you can call if they deny you! http://www.leginfo.ca.gov/pub/99-00/bill/asm/ab_0501-0550/ab_531_bill_19990930_chaptered.html I haven't lived there in a long time though.
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Nov 10, 2019 06:06
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Charles posted:If you're in CA the law states there's a 1 800 you can call if they deny you! Yeah, but I don't want to go on a whole side quest.
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Nov 10, 2019 06:51
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theHUNGERian posted:Is there a life hack that allows me to turn on the air pump at a gas station without having to beg the attendant for it? I've found buying something and asking during that transaction to be the easiest way. Shopping around for tires, I have never heard of this brand, is it decent? https://www.pointstire.com/millars/Product-Details/P66768
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Nov 10, 2019 07:07
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theHUNGERian posted:Yeah, but I don't want to go on a whole side quest. Respec your character and put 100 into Persuade. Or Pistols.
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Nov 10, 2019 07:35
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Beach Bum posted:Road reflector [those reflective triangle things] I know they're supposed to work given it's a tubeless tyre, but I don't know how wild I am about a plug kit. I do have a full-sized spare - it's slightly larger diameter than stock (couldn't find one in the exact size at the wreckers) but it beats the one that I bought it with, which was the original from 1996  The air compressor is not a bad idea though - I've noticed one of my tyres has a very slow leak and annoyingly the one servo in my village has a busted air machine. There's another one on my way to work but it's still like a good 8-10ks up the road. Would probably make it a small one so that I can bring it along on my KLR... the thought of using the little frame-mount bicycle pump to inflate a motorbike tyre doesn't exactly fill me with enthusiasm. PS check the date codes on your spare tyres folks, the one I fitted to partner's friend's car was also the original (2001 vintage) factory donut. Colostomy Bag posted:Are you trying to do a survival kit with a storm of some kind? Just for breakdowns/roadside situations, not really storms. Uthor posted:In the winter, I keep a bag with a spare jacket, sweater, gloves, hat, etc, food, and water (though I should leave water in my car 365 days, now that I think about it). Jacket and hat is a good idea, I've got a big warm one I would never wear otherwise (it's 2 sizes too big) but it does get reasonably cold here in winter. I do have the equivalent of AAA but it can take an hour+ for them to get out to areas not central. Am going to keep an eye out for a cheap breaker bar (think I do have a spare socket in 17mm or whatever my lugs are), that's a good idea. Motronic posted:Important clarifying question: is is a Land Rover or similar? Nah, Toyota Starlet (small hatchback). I did used to carry a tent, sleeping bags, and camping mats in the back of my car/van when I lived in Japan, but that was mostly because closet space was at a premium in my little shoebox apartment (and we'd sometimes wind up doing impromptu sleepovers at each other's places after a night out).
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Nov 10, 2019 08:44
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wolrah posted:Facebook Marketplace seems to have taken a lot of the Craigslist market in my area, but another factor is that not as many people are selling their 10-15 year old cars right now if they still work.  at trying to navigate Facebook, ah well. 
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Nov 10, 2019 14:26
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two_beer_bishes posted:2011 Tundra 5.7L. Wife took the truck out to the park, she called me when they were getting ready to go that the truck wouldn't start, it just cranks. When she left our house it started and ran just fine, and for the 40 mile drive to the park. This ended up being the fuel pump control module. $300 part but really easy to get to.
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Nov 10, 2019 15:30
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Mr. Nice! posted:I have looked at some. Saw one on ebay. The downside of that is still having to LoC to install the amp because I haven’t found one yet that was designed with an amp/sub in place. I need to dig more and see if there is. Some amps have both line level and speaker level inputs. Unless you already have an amp that doesn't have that.
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Nov 10, 2019 17:48
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STR posted:Some amps have both line level and speaker level inputs. Good point. I need to check that on my amp.
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Nov 10, 2019 17:53
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Can I program a new key fob for my 2010 Malibu or do I have to go to a pro?
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Nov 10, 2019 20:44
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I do not have a spare donut tire for my 2012 Elantra. I got a quote for $200 for a used one from Sullivan Tire (Boston). Dude said that these tires are in demand because certain years didn't come with them. Should I buy it for $200 or should I shop around?
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Nov 11, 2019 15:27
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Defenestration posted:I do not have a spare donut tire for my 2012 Elantra. I got a quote for $200 for a used one from Sullivan Tire (Boston). Dude said that these tires are in demand because certain years didn't come with them. It’s $85 on eBay, so probably not?
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Nov 11, 2019 16:07
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Heated Gaming Moment posted:Can I program a new key fob for my 2010 Malibu or do I have to go to a pro? First, have all keyfobs handy - all of them get erased when you go into programming mode. Close all the vehicle doors. Insert the ignition key Press and hold the door unlock switch. While holding the door lock switch in the unlock position, cycle the ignition ON, OFF, ON, OFF. Release the door unlock switch. The doors will lock and unlock to confirm the program mode. Press and hold the LOCK button and the UNLOCK button simultaneously on one transmitter. After a delay of approximately 15 seconds, the doors will lock and unlock to confirm the programming of that transmitter. (if this doesn't work, hold lock and unlock for 6 seconds, let go, then press unlock once) Repeat the previous step to program up to 4 transmitters. Turn the ignition switch to the RUN position in order to exit the keyless entry transmitter programming mode. Shut it off, remove the key, and test every keyfob. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 16:35 on Nov 11, 2019 |
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Nov 11, 2019 16:32
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I've been trying to bargain shop for a used Prius. The ones I'm looking at are around ten years old and, of course, up in miles, usually around 180,000 - 260,000. I read different things about how long these cars last. Some say they get driven well over the 200,000 mark without major issues. What is everyone's experience around here? Is it worth plopping down $3k-4k on a Prius with that much wear on it if it seems to be well maintained? Alternate choices are some Yarises I've been looking at with about 130k on them.
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Nov 11, 2019 23:08
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Drink-Mix Man posted:I've been trying to bargain shop for a used Prius. The ones I'm looking at are around ten years old and, of course, up in miles, usually around 180,000 - 260,000. I read different things about how long these cars last. Some say they get driven well over the 200,000 mark without major issues. What is everyone's experience around here? Is it worth plopping down $3k-4k on a Prius with that much wear on it if it seems to be well maintained? Maintenance is a big thing, but so is the battery. I've definitely seen Priuses go near and over 300K, but that was in a fleet. I don't think I'd opt for a cheap hybrid personally, as there are other options out there that will have more straightforward (and usually less expensive) needs. Yarises are OK, but I'd also take a look at Vibes, Matrixes, and Fits as well. I mean hybrids are great and all, but I'm really not convinced of their superiority.
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Nov 11, 2019 23:47
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nitsuga posted:Maintenance is a big thing, but so is the battery. I've definitely seen Priuses go near and over 300K, but that was in a fleet. I don't think I'd opt for a cheap hybrid personally, as there are other options out there that will have more straightforward (and usually less expensive) needs. Yarises are OK, but I'd also take a look at Vibes, Matrixes, and Fits as well. Cab fleets seem to be increasingly convinced of the ongoing operating costs of the Prius.
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Nov 11, 2019 23:50
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Hi, back again with my 2003 Honda Accord LX 2.4 L 4 cylinder sedan. Today's problem: My A/C stopped blowing cold air a few weeks ago, and now it doesn't blow air at all. When I run the self diagnostic I hear a groaning noise under the hood and the light blinks six times, and if I'm reading the error blinks correctly that means: A problem in the blower motor circuit. The blower motor being out wouldn't affect the temperature of my A/C right? It was blowing cold, then just blew hot air, a few weeks later, the blowing stopped altogether. I can't even use my defroster and it's cold outside. Do I replace the blower motor? Why is it groaning during a diagnostic?
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Nov 12, 2019 00:39
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Motronic posted:Cab fleets seem to be increasingly convinced of the ongoing operating costs of the Prius. That’s true. There are a bunch in that price range near me, so there might be a few more options than some other models too. nitsuga fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Nov 12, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 04:05
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Quick sanity check, so my '97 Volvo 960 has been losing coolant slowly, there appears to be an oil stain on my driveway (not 100% sure if oil or coolant, but it is brown and my coolant is green) and my oil level has been fluctuating up and down as much as a 1/2 quart either direction measured in the same spot. There are also small black flakes in my coolant reservoir but no milkshake in either. Anyone know a possible cause? I have suspicions my coolant is going into my oil and my oil is leaving the engine via a loose dipstick tube, so a head gasket but I don't want to jump to that if it might be something simpler. We recently fixed a leaky cooling system (new radiator, hoses, overflow tank, a few plastic bits) which has increased the system pressure at least 3 PSI.
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Nov 12, 2019 04:39
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Defenestration posted:I do not have a spare donut tire for my 2012 Elantra. I got a quote for $200 for a used one from Sullivan Tire (Boston). Dude said that these tires are in demand because certain years didn't come with them. $200 for a donut? gently caress no. Are you sure he wasn't offering you a full size spare? Because that's literally "entire non-donut wheel and tire combo" money, just browsing 2012 elantra options on tirerack. big crush on Chad OMG posted:It’s $85 on eBay, so probably not? They're a hundred on rockauto, too, if you don't wanna deal with ebay. Personally - if you don't have an existing spare, and were actually seriously considering dropping $200 on a donut, I suggest giving the $200 to your local tire place for an entire wheel and tire. This gives you an actual spare tire you can just swap in and use. It's best to do this when you're getting tires anyway, so you can work it into the rotation and they wear evenly, but having slightly more or less wear on one tire will still be less of an issue than riding on a donut. Not having the "How long will this tiny piece of poo poo tire last" anxiety is worth an extra hundred bucks up front, so it's what I always do. Javid fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Nov 12, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 05:04
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Untrustable posted:Hi, back again with my 2003 Honda Accord LX 2.4 L 4 cylinder sedan. Today's problem: My A/C stopped blowing cold air a few weeks ago, and now it doesn't blow air at all. When I run the self diagnostic I hear a groaning noise under the hood and the light blinks six times, and if I'm reading the error blinks correctly that means: A problem in the blower motor circuit. The blower motor being out wouldn't affect the temperature of my A/C right? It was blowing cold, then just blew hot air, a few weeks later, the blowing stopped altogether. I can't even use my defroster and it's cold outside. Do I replace the blower motor? Why is it groaning during a diagnostic? Normally, yes, blower motor shouldn't impact temperature. But - on my '13 CR-V, when the blower motor shat itself and the HVAC computer couldn't confirm it was actually blowing, it wouldn't turn the compressor on. I would verify voltage at the blower motor and plan on replacing it. Use a Honda part, the aftermarket ones are poo poo.
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Nov 12, 2019 05:10
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STR posted:Check your CV joints. Inner ones to be exact. I'm betting one has a split boot and let the magic grease out. Took my car to the shop. It was exactly this (driver's side, apparently. 320 total. Pretty fair, I think.
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Nov 12, 2019 06:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:Normally, yes, blower motor shouldn't impact temperature. But - on my '13 CR-V, when the blower motor shat itself and the HVAC computer couldn't confirm it was actually blowing, it wouldn't turn the compressor on. Thank you! I'll do that and go from there.
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Nov 12, 2019 07:23
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Javid posted:$200 for a donut? gently caress no. Are you sure he wasn't offering you a full size spare? Because that's literally "entire non-donut wheel and tire combo" money, just browsing 2012 elantra options on tirerack. Yeah but will a full size spare fit in the car? The spare appears to be made for that space and I don’t think you’ll fit anything bigger in there. I’d rather have a lovely donut in the car than a full size spare at home.
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Nov 12, 2019 12:51
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Salvage yard pick? Should be plenty of them (donut spares) around...
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Nov 12, 2019 14:14
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Ethics_Gradient posted:I know they're supposed to work given it's a tubeless tyre, but I don't know how wild I am about a plug kit. I do have a full-sized spare - it's slightly larger diameter than stock (couldn't find one in the exact size at the wreckers) but it beats the one that I bought it with, which was the original from 1996 Plugs work very well for their design application. I've plugged tires in gas station parking lots, never gone back to patch them internally like you're supposed to, and ridden them out for another ten to twenty thousand miles with no ill effects. If you catch a nail or a screw or something similar on the road and develop a small leak there's nothing better for it. Ethics_Gradient posted:The air compressor is not a bad idea though - I've noticed one of my tyres has a very slow leak and annoyingly the one servo in my village has a busted air machine. There's another one on my way to work but it's still like a good 8-10ks up the road. Would probably make it a small one so that I can bring it along on my KLR... the thought of using the little frame-mount bicycle pump to inflate a motorbike tyre doesn't exactly fill me with enthusiasm. I don't have one but apparently Viair is the way to go for compact compressors.
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Nov 12, 2019 19:13
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STR posted:First, have all keyfobs handy - all of them get erased when you go into programming mode. Can anyone confirm this should work? I’ve tried this already as the result of a google search and it hasn’t been successful.
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Nov 12, 2019 19:17
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Heated Gaming Moment posted:Can anyone confirm this should work? I’ve tried this already as the result of a google search and it hasn’t been successful. Programyourremote.com suggests that it's not possible to DIY on a '10 Malibu.
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Nov 12, 2019 20:20
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drat. So much for having factory remote start this winter.
Brrrmph fucked around with this message at 23:36 on Nov 12, 2019 |
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Nov 12, 2019 23:31
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That would only work if the car was originally equipped with remote start. Check your RPO sticker (lists all options the car has, usually in the trunk or glove box), you're looking for AP3. If it had it added after it left the factory, it'll have a sticker saying "AP8 replaced by AP3".
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Nov 13, 2019 00:36
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My ECU disconnected momentarily overnight even though my car started up no problems. (Clock was reset, some OBD lights were on but went away after a few seconds driving, that sort of thing). Any thoughts?
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Nov 13, 2019 16:44
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It was just taking a nap
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Nov 13, 2019 16:58
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2017 Mazda 6 automatic, pushbutton start. Does anyone have info or experience with adding a remote start to something like this? Looks like there is an OEM option and some aftermarket. I have a friend that wants me to do it, but I don't know about current remote starts... last one I did was about 15 years ago, with about a dozen wire splices needed and it was a pain in the rear end.
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Nov 13, 2019 20:58
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meatpimp posted:2017 Mazda 6 automatic, pushbutton start. tl;dr: Don't.
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Nov 13, 2019 21:01
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C-Bangin' it 
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totalnewbie posted:My ECU disconnected momentarily overnight even though my car started up no problems. (Clock was reset, some OBD lights were on but went away after a few seconds driving, that sort of thing). Any thoughts? The clock isn't tied to the ECU at all. Your battery was either disconnected momentarily without your knowledge (develop a xanax or ambien habit lately?), or the voltage dropped low enough to reset everything while cranking (i.e. your battery is about to leave you stranded).
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Nov 14, 2019 05:32
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STR posted:The clock isn't tied to the ECU at all. Your battery was either disconnected momentarily without your knowledge (develop a xanax or ambien habit lately?), or the voltage dropped low enough to reset everything while cranking (i.e. your battery is about to leave you stranded). I was thinking ECU mostly because the OBD flags got reset. My battery is literally like, 4 or 5 months old so I think it's still fine. Temperatures did drop briefly but it's been way, way lower before with no issues. So.. I guess maybe I'll have to check the battery connections but still, seems weird.
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Nov 14, 2019 06:47
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I've had batteries last anywhere from 5 minutes to 9 years after purchase. Don't trust it just because it's <6 months old. The one in my car is about the same age, and it struggled to start my car this morning (~28F) after sitting 2 days. Dash clock and trip odometer got reset, though OBD flags didn't.
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Nov 14, 2019 07:26
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