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ChocNitty posted:More important question I have though, is how do you vet buyers when you sell a used car on craigslist? There’s a lot of scammers. I don’t want to get scammed or have my car stolen. Is a cashiers check ok? Cashier's checks are pretty big scam vectors. If the buyer is local do a bank transfer at his bank's branch and confirm the deposit with your bank. Do not trust any method that takes days to clear or involves passing paper that isn't cash.
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Jun 18, 2020 02:08
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Yeah, normally I'd say that cash at a police station is another safe way but lately maybe not so much.
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Jun 18, 2020 02:17
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I've sold cars on CL. Cash exchange for signed title, off you go, my good man. Did the deals at my house, made sure there were a couple people wandering around. I also photographed the buyer & his/her driver's license as part of the transaction.
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Jun 18, 2020 03:32
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PainterofCrap posted:I've sold cars on CL. Cash exchange for signed title, off you go, my good man. Did the deals at my house, made sure there were a couple people wandering around. I also photographed the buyer & his/her driver's license as part of the transaction. Good ideas. In the past I only sold cheap cars so they paid cash. This car is probably too much to reasonably deal with hard currency.
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Jun 18, 2020 03:44
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You can do it at your bank. e: vv yeah their bank is better taqueso fucked around with this message at 08:26 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 04:09
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Do the deal at his bank, they can hand the check or money order or whatever to you directly that way. Signed title and bill of sale in exchange. The address thing might not matter assuming it's registered at your address. They can just look at the title you just signed over to them.
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Jun 18, 2020 08:06
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My old car cover is falling apart and I need a new one, preferably something that can last a while. I live in CA, so mostly looking for dust/rain protection - snow is not a worry. My car is a 2013 Dodge Challenger R/T with a V8 and a stick shift - a very important consideration  .
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Jun 18, 2020 17:45
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2007 Corolla. My front stabilizer bar is rusty as poo poo on its ends, and the black protective coating of factory paint just flaked off, revealing lots and lots of rust. Is there a paint/rust inhibitor that I can spray onto here that will hide and slow the rust growth? I'm not expecting it to look beautiful. I just don't want the sway bars seizing to my stabilizer links' bolts again. Because gently caress all that. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Jun 18, 2020 |
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Jun 18, 2020 18:26
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pokie posted:My old car cover is falling apart and I need a new one, preferably something that can last a while. I live in CA, so mostly looking for dust/rain protection - snow is not a worry. My car is a 2013 Dodge Challenger R/T with a V8 and a stick shift - a very important consideration I bought the carcovers.com "ultimate shield" version for one of my sleeping land rovers and have been very happy with it. It's been on about a year and has held up through a northeast winter, which is a lot more than you need to deal with.
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Jun 18, 2020 18:28
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ChocNitty posted:I’m hesitant to buy one of the new cars that has a giant as gently caress front grille. It feels like a fad. It might look really corny and outdated in 5 years from now. What do you guys think about it? I thought the same thing about 90's cars. They looked odd to me at the time. But looking back I really like a lot of them. Not that new trucks look bad, but comparing my dad's 98 Ram to a modern one, I actually really like the look of the old one now. Tastes change. Buy what you want now, not what you want in 5 years. Bernie Panders posted:Ok, how about this 4Runner? This is the only non rusted heap one I’ve seen below $2k in weeks. How the gently caress is this ad still up? That thing HAS to be gone by now. Right?
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Jun 18, 2020 19:35
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla. This made me check POR15 to see if they have aerosols (they don't). But holy hell the price for that stuff...yikes.
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Jun 18, 2020 19:42
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C-Bangin' it 
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Stupid suspension/performance questions: I have a 2010 370z Roadster I'm looking to improve the handling of. This car will likely never see a track (due to soft-top) but may do some autocross for fun sooner or later, and just want it to feel stable and planted when enjoying NC Mountain Roads like I do on my bike. I bought it two years ago and sussed out some of the issues. It couldn't "dig in" at launch because the diff bushings were worn out, I replaced those with whiteline bushings. The diff is open, I did not get the VLSD. It broke loose in turns, so I tossed the garbage nexen tires it had and replaced it with some pilot sport 4s's which are amazing. It digs in and pulls, but I have a lot of body roll and it seems to "bounce" around hard turns, almost like the suspension won't settle. It also can't seem to hold down consistent power accelerating out of a turn, it doesn't lose traction but it does seem lacking compared to my dad's mustang which puts down more power, but also more evenly (the Z bucks a little, then pulls). I've got no issues holding power in a straight line. To fix that body roll and lack of stability in turns, I'm wondering what would be most efficacious: Do I upgrade to coilovers, do I upgrade swaybars, something else? Both? Maybe just springs? To fix the lack of power coming out of a turn, do I need an LSD? I've priced them out and I'm not sure if that's worth the cost for a car I'll never take to the track, or if I should hunt down a VLSD pumpkin out of a sport or nismo (much cheaper) on ebay and be happy with that. I'm trying to do this "right" and not just spend $5000 on parts for a soft-top that's almost entirely a street car, but I feel like after 2 years of driving this I've figured out where I'm at and what I want from it.
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Jun 18, 2020 20:43
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GnarlyCharlie4u posted:How the gently caress is this ad still up? That thing HAS to be gone by now. Right? I went to go meet up with them and it was super sketchy - they had me meet them in the back of this junkyard/allegedly mechanic shop in the middle of a completely industrial part of town. I couldn't see the 4R as I drove around, and they didn't indicate I'd be meeting them at a business (far enough away from everything else where no one would hear you scream) so I bailed. The fact that it's still up makes me think I did the right thing.
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Jun 18, 2020 21:29
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Motronic posted:I bought the carcovers.com "ultimate shield" version for one of my sleeping land rovers and have been very happy with it. It's been on about a year and has held up through a northeast winter, which is a lot more than you need to deal with. Thank you kindly - my old one lasted me 3 years, but it really fell to poo poo suddenly and cost >$200 so I am unhappy. I have not really thought to look at products outside of Amazon, and their selection did not impress me.
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Jun 19, 2020 04:26
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla. https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-rust-encapsulator-black-aerosol-15-ounce.html I just started using this stuff but not in aerosol, but I like it. Not that I can say it'll last forever, I don't have the firsthand experience. Most of the rust stopping products are at least good, the reviews end up all over the place and it's hard to say if the product or prep was the issue.
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Jun 19, 2020 04:33
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Colostomy Bag posted:This made me check POR15 to see if they have aerosols (they don't). But holy hell the price for that stuff...yikes. Yeah it's a sticker shock for sure. Good news is a 4oz can will cover a solid axle. A quart will do all the heavy metal on a car, frame, suspension and axles. Pray you don't need enough for a flatbed.
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Jun 19, 2020 04:38
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melon cat posted:2007 Corolla. This shits pretty good and since I know you're in hoserville, you've probably got a Canadian tire close to you. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rust-cure-formula-3000-14-oz-0477985p.html Periodic re-application for best results.
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Jun 19, 2020 11:34
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Are there practical reasons for preferring a rubber valve stem or aluminum valve stem when buying TPMS sensors? (for a brand new TPMS setup, car doesn't have any support built in)
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Jun 19, 2020 16:27
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taqueso posted:Are there practical reasons for preferring a rubber valve stem or aluminum valve stem when buying TPMS sensors? Your rubber stem won't snap off if it gets kicked. However rubber degrades faster than Al, so you rebuild the sensor every tire change with new rubber which adds labor/mats cost. I prefer the rubber for short-term durability but I'm also a big dumb animal who is always finding creative ways to break things.
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Jun 19, 2020 16:56
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I'm in a hurry to get a Flyin Miata hitch receiver on my NC. The hitch sandwiches in between the bumper and the chassis. You take off the bumper, slide it over the studs on the chassis, slide the bumper back on top of that, and bolt it all down. The problem is that someone hit me a few months ago and it turned out to deform part of the bumper. I've straightened it out on the chassis side using the hitch as a template. I can't figure out how to get the bumper straight, or who to take it to for help. It obviously needs to be straightened out so the holes will still line up with the studs. Here's what it should look like:  Here's what it actually looks like:   I'm thinking of trying to even things out by threading bolts through with really large washers and tightening things down, but that's because I'm an idiot. What's a better fast/cheap/easy way to do this?
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Jun 20, 2020 06:56
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Hog the holes out so it lines up, source an undamaged bumper and swap later. Nothing's gonna get those perfect again, except cutting that whole bracket off and welding a new one.
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Jun 20, 2020 07:10
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blk posted:I'm in a hurry to get a Flyin Miata hitch receiver on my NC. The hitch sandwiches in between the bumper and the chassis. You take off the bumper, slide it over the studs on the chassis, slide the bumper back on top of that, and bolt it all down. Did you get this persons insurance info? That metal is already deformed from the hit, I absolutely would not trust a hitch mounted after bending it back, thus bending it twice.
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Jun 20, 2020 11:57
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blk posted:I'm in a hurry to get a Flyin Miata hitch receiver on my NC. The hitch sandwiches in between the bumper and the chassis. You take off the bumper, slide it over the studs on the chassis, slide the bumper back on top of that, and bolt it all down. Since this is a quickie job as you mentioned: I think you are on the right track. Two grade-8 nuts, bolts & a stack of washers that just fit in there, crank it back out to level. You may not get the gap between the two brackets to line up, but a couple whacks with a maul should adjust that well enough.
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Jun 20, 2020 13:47
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Is it ok to mix and match different brands when it comes to rotors and pads? Are drilled/ slotted rotors worth it or a scam?
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Jun 20, 2020 19:32
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:Did you get this persons insurance info? That metal is already deformed from the hit, I absolutely would not trust a hitch mounted after bending it back, thus bending it twice. No witnesses and it was my word versus his; my insurance rolled over even though I lawyered up and fought it for a while. I have a $1000 collision deductible. I’m definitely skeptical about trusting it as well, but the bumper reinforcement itself wouldn’t be holding any load. The hitch is under 20 lbs. I’d be using it to carry a bike rack that is also under 20lbs, and bikes ranging from 14 to 39 lbs. Maybe it’s worth filing a claim, I’ve just had so many things happen to this car beyond my control that it’s become a frustrating money pit. A new bumper reinforcement is $200 on eBay. My landlord has a wood shop and I’m wondering if I can drill a template into a sturdy piece of wood and bolt the receiver to that to pull it straight. I might pursue that if the washers don’t work out.
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Jun 20, 2020 19:33
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Krime posted:Is it ok to mix and match different brands when it comes to rotors and pads? I have Stoptech rotors and Hawk HPS pads on my WRX and it's fine. I think this should generally be fine although I think you'd likely want to stay in the same quality area between the two. Someone can give a better answer probably. As far as drilled/slotted, I'm a huge douche so the Stoptech rotors I have are drilled/slotted in the front and slotted in the rear. It's going to have a negative effect on longevity and apparently can sometimes lead to breaking/cracking, I guess, and there's really no meaningful value outside of a track situation (which I don't take my car on anyways) and even then it's probably questionable. I did it because I like how it looks, I don't think I'm getting any meaningfully better performance out of it.
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Jun 20, 2020 19:49
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Krime posted:Is it ok to mix and match different brands when it comes to rotors and pads? Yes. No, not worth it. Get the best pads you want to spend money on. I went with ceramic pads for a daily. Cheaper than OEM, but premium brand. Savaggeese has a good video on brakes.
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Jun 20, 2020 20:08
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Mine are both slotted and drilled. They just came with the car like that and 3 years later they still bite like hell. Looks p cool but probably wouldn't seek em out cuz Im a cheapie. 
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Jun 20, 2020 20:19
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Slotted rotors will keep a fresh pad face on at all times but will also significantly increase pad wear. Drilled rotors are a means of weight reduction and out gassing mitigation, the latter of which has become largely irrelevant with modern pad compounds. For a street car, not worth it. I run slotted rotors on my autocross brakes.
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Jun 20, 2020 20:33
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Are there any non-steel materials that could be used for rotors that would also be usable as a daily driver? I assume no or blinged out cars would have carbon or fluoro green ceramic rotors.
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Jun 20, 2020 20:42
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Iron.
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Jun 20, 2020 21:07
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steel pads and ceramic rotors?
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Jun 20, 2020 21:10
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2004 volvo xc90 2.5T I figured out what the other two circles are (evaporative emissions hose), but what is the top right circle (the one with messed up insulation)
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Jun 20, 2020 21:38
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blk posted:No witnesses and it was my word versus his; my insurance rolled over even though I lawyered up and fought it for a while. I have a $1000 collision deductible. If you are never going to use it to do more than hold a bike rack, then I would just make it bolt up and call it good.
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Jun 20, 2020 22:12
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We have a ~15 year old honda that gets driven pretty minimally. Went to start it this week, dead, so jumped it and drove for 30 minutes. Two days later, dead again. Got a new battery put in, the old one was 4 years old so it was probably time. BUT the tech says the alternator isn't right and is draining the battery (negative voltage on attached receipt picture), so the new battery will be dead soon if I don't get the alternator replaced, which they quoted at almost $600 P+L. The car is probably worth less than $3000 at this point so I'm debating if we should just finally sell it with the current alternator + before more things break. Any advice? Does the charging system test really show that it's a bad alternator, or could it be some something else in the electrical system?
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Jun 20, 2020 23:35
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Results of a battery test aren't going to tell us if your alternator is working. I'd suggest you go elsewhere, like any chain parts store, to ask them to test it for free and see what they have to say.
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Jun 21, 2020 02:04
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Does anyone know how to pair a Toyota keyless ignition fob to a car again? After my battery went dead from not starting it I got the battery charged up again and it has been consistently starting, but it forgot the key fob so I have to touch the fob to the ignition button and unlock with the hidden key every time. I know I fixed it before in the past when the fob battery died and it forgot the fob, but I can't remember what I did because that was a couple years ago and now all I'm finding either depends on putting the key in the ignition (there is no ignition) or tells you to go to the dealership, which I don't want to do because the nearest dealership is 35 miles away and they'd probably charge out the rear end just to do the 5 minute fix.
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Jun 21, 2020 02:17
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What year and model car? Toyota programming varies depending on that. Also, any good locksmith should be able to program it. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 21, 2020 |
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Jun 21, 2020 03:24
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2009 Camry Hybrid. E: Occurs to me that I haven't tried replacing the fob battery. I'd expect a key fob battery to last longer than two years, but maybe that's an unreasonable expectation with newer cars? 22 Eargesplitten fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jun 21, 2020 |
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Jun 21, 2020 05:12
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Yeah, definitely try replacing the fob battery. Some Google-fu says the fob battery will die a lot faster if you keep it near a cell phone.  Google also says you can't program it yourself; if it's still unresponsive after a new battery (CR 1632), a locksmith or dealer can program it back into the car. Dealer cost supposedly ranges from $50-75, in some magical fairy land where dealers don't try to take advantage of customers. The Googles also says ~2-3 years is about average for the Toyota smart key battery.
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Jun 21, 2020 08:40
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