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mobby_6kl posted:So I went to check it out. There's no EGR code, in fact I'm not sure it's an issue at all. But on cold idle, it fluctuates between normal idle and 2-2.5k rpm, and then settled into reasonably normal range and I could drive it. Obviously in limp model, little power even for a 1.2l and won't rev over 3k RPM. The CEL codes are Always start with the lowest number code first, they're the most severe and can cause follow on codes. I would look for a broken sensor reference voltage wire to the TPS, fix it if you find one, if you don't, verify the ECU is putting out reference voltage (it probably is if it's running since it's normally used for other sensors too), then replace the TPS and clear the codes, see what happens. Oh... Check if the TPS has to be adjusted on those, if it's not adjusted because he just slapped one on it could cause some of those codes I think. At one point on one of my Jeeps I had a single broken TPS ground wire cause a P0123, plus a P0170 or P0171 (can't remember which) as well as an O2 sensor code. And it ran like utter poo poo. The reason was that the TPS signal being that far out of whack put it so far up the fueling table that no amount of LTFT or STFT fuckery could get it to stoich, leading to the other codes. Fixed that one issue and all of it went away.
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Dec 28, 2020 18:52
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kastein posted:Always start with the lowest number code first, they're the most severe and can cause follow on codes. I would look for a broken sensor reference voltage wire to the TPS, fix it if you find one, if you don't, verify the ECU is putting out reference voltage (it probably is if it's running since it's normally used for other sensors too), then replace the TPS and clear the codes, see what happens. Wouldn't your O2 sensor have been a lower number than the TPS?
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Dec 28, 2020 18:59
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The only O2 related codes I see in the list start at P0130. I don't recall which one it was, unfortunately, this was several years ago.
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Dec 28, 2020 19:09
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STR posted:Probably a safe bet, but the "pilot bearing noise" is possibly (probably) the main input shaft bearing inside the transaxle. * Source: I've blown up several Honda transaxles kastein posted:Always start with the lowest number code first, they're the most severe and can cause follow on codes. I would look for a broken sensor reference voltage wire to the TPS, fix it if you find one, if you don't, verify the ECU is putting out reference voltage (it probably is if it's running since it's normally used for other sensors too), then replace the TPS and clear the codes, see what happens.
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Dec 28, 2020 19:35
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STR posted:Yeah, and I live in copland. I've already been stopped twice over it. I've been stopped more times in this sleepy suburb in the ~2 yrs I've been here than in the past 20 loving years combined. Maybe you're overthinking it. Get screws the same size and thread as you have, with a security head. Obviously not "secure" but enough of a PITA that a thief walks to the next car. Probably just some rear end in a top hat with like, a flathead screwdriver. Now I'm overthinking it too, I'd put a plate cover on as well so you can't just rip the thing off.
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Dec 28, 2020 20:09
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What good is a stolen front license plate? Or is it just jackassery?
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Dec 28, 2020 20:18
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tactlessbastard posted:What good is a stolen front license plate? Or is it just jackassery? You can use it to do crimes with a stolen car
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Dec 28, 2020 20:57
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tactlessbastard posted:What good is a stolen front license plate? Or is it just jackassery? 
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Dec 28, 2020 22:15
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My backup car is a 1999 Nissan Altima. Recently the battery and brake dash indicator lights started coming on. My understanding is that this indicates a problem with the voltage coming off the alternator, but I just put a new alternator in this summer after the old one caught fire. The charge & brake lights don't start to come on until after the car warms up for a bit, and if I give it a little gas, the lights turn off. They seem to like fading in while I've got the foot off the accelerator, e.g. coasting as I approach a red light. The battery is staying charged, but it's brand new and I'm also not driving the car very much, a couple of times a month maybe. The belt isn't slipping, and I've cleaned up the wiring harness with some contact cleaner spray (I assume this is where it connects to the charge lamp). The other electrical connections are solid. I haven't put a meter to it because I don't know what to look for. Before I go any further on my own, I thought I'd query the goon mind to see what I should be measuring to rule out a faulty alternator, or if I should rule out some other system that might trigger these lights, or if - since this is a beater car - I can safely ignore these lights as long as everything seems to be working. This is the first real trouble the car's given me since I replaced the faulty idler pulley ~19 years ago, lol. The alternator I just bought cost probably 1/8th what the whole car is worth now.
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Dec 28, 2020 23:21
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Was the alternator from Autozone or some other chain? They can be very hit and miss.
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Dec 29, 2020 00:52
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Was the alternator from Autozone or some other chain? They can be very hit and miss. Yeah, this right here. So many are bad out of the box or shortly thereafter. The parts they use to rebuild them are absolutely poo poo.
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Dec 29, 2020 00:54
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Colostomy Bag posted:Was the alternator from Autozone or some other chain? They can be very hit and miss. Motronic posted:Yeah, this right here. So many are bad out of the box or shortly thereafter. The parts they use to rebuild them are absolutely poo poo. Yep.  Tips on how to verify it's poo poo would be appreciated before I go throw another alternator at the problem.
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Dec 29, 2020 02:57
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tactlessbastard posted:What good is a stolen front license plate? Or is it just jackassery? We stopped putting registration stickers on our plates sometime in the 1990s. They've been on the windshield since then (except on commercial stuff like 18 wheelers, also motorcycles and trailers still get a plate sticker); front and rear plates are identical for regular cars/pickups here. Front plate missing is less likely to be noticed. Someone on Nextdoor reminded me that it may be a PITA if someone runs a bunch of tolls with it if I don't have a police report. Thankfully APD lets you submit a report online; they'll email an official report sometime in the next few days. Supposedly. dobbymoodge posted:Yep. Check voltage at the battery terminals with it running. You want to see 13.8-14.5. I'm betting once the lights come on you're going to see <13. Also had a 99 Altima. They do that weird thing where both the brake and alternator lights come on when the alternator shits, I guess to get your attention faster? Drive it long enough to get the voltage too low and it'll pop the check engine light too. e: at least the alternator is pretty easy to get to on them. Right up on top. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 14:41 on Dec 29, 2020 |
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Dec 29, 2020 13:00
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Hey all, here’s a stupid q about a minor coolant leak (I think), wouldn’t muck up the thread with it but I’m in the middle of driving a friend’s 2004 Lexus rx330 (with 200k+ miles but reasonably well maintained) pretty hard: about 3k miles in 5 days. Antifreeze seems to be leaking, not too much but consistently, a bit after turning off the engine and I have an occasionally pretty bad burning rubber smell that I think is prolly coolant. No problems with engine temperature, there’s a picture of the line/connection I think is leaking below. Normally I would kinda sleep on this, but i wanted to ask if it’s something I should get dealt with professionally given the long drive. 
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Dec 29, 2020 19:47
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Engine temp/pressure spikes in the 10-15 minutes after the engine is shut off, so yeah, that's when you're likely to find leaks that are just starting. Really have to remove the tupperware on top to get a better look at the hose clamp. It may not be positioned correctly, or the clamp has begun its journey through the hose due to age/wear. Replacing the upper hose is not hideously difficult, although burping the cooling system afterwards can be fun.
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Dec 29, 2020 20:55
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That appears to be an original 16 year old radiator hose. Not a surprise it's time to be replaced.
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Dec 29, 2020 21:01
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Here's hoping it's that and not the neck off the rad.
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Dec 29, 2020 22:12
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STR posted:Check voltage at the battery terminals with it running. You want to see 13.8-14.5. I'm betting once the lights come on you're going to see <13. Alrighty, this was good info but the mystery has deepened. I put the voltmeter on the battery and wedged the probes so I could put the meter in the car with me. From cold start, I was getting a steady 14.25 VDC, but once the car warmed up and the idle RPM dropped, the alternator output started to drop very slowly. Over about 10 minutes it dropped from 14.25 to 14.18. Revving the engine would lift it by 0.01 to 0.03 VDC, but at idle it would settle back to the lower voltage. At this point I'd been running the car in park for around 15 minutes. Then I turned the high beams on for a few seconds. The alternator output dropped sharply, and it looked like I might just be reading the battery, ~11.2 to ~11.8 VDC, sometimes dipping to 10.8 or so if I was loving around with the headlights or whatever. At this point, the battery and brake dash lights came on. Revving the engine lifted the voltage into the 12.0 to 12.3 VDC range - so the alternator had to be doing something? - enough that the indicators turned off, but at idle it would settle back to ~11.2 (n.b.: The battery measured around 12-13 VDC when I had it isolated both before I started this test and afterwards, so it seems to still be charged) I turned the car off and then on again, and the alternator kicked back on at around 14.18 VDC. Faffing with the high beams caused it to drop off immediately. AFAICT the belt is tensioned sufficiently - it doesn't look or sound like it's slipping, although I did catch the odd squeak while revving the engine early on, but not at idle, and not after the car was warmed up. By eye, the pulley on the alternator was turning just as fast when it was putting out 14+VDC as when it was putting out nothing. I'm guessing the alternator is garbage, but this failure mode is wacky. Is there some kind of thermal cutoff in the alternator that's calibrated too low (or getting too hot) and tripping? Maybe the belt is slipping enough to cause this, but I'm not reading it correctly? I don't have the tools handy right now, but I can try tightening the tension a bit next time I can use my brother's garage. I found the receipt at least - it's an O'Reilly rebuild. Hopefully I can get my cash back. Where should I be looking for an alternator that doesn't suck? Should I avoid rebuilt units altogether? STR posted:e: at least the alternator is pretty easy to get to on them. Right up on top. That's why I love the mainstream Nissans, usually they're laid out so you can get to the parts most likely to need replacing without too much hassle. When I can, I prefer to wrench on my car vs. take it in, and this old beater has been great for that.
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Dec 29, 2020 23:05
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PainterofCrap posted:Engine temp/pressure spikes in the 10-15 minutes after the engine is shut off, so yeah, that's when you're likely to find leaks that are just starting. Motronic posted:That appears to be an original 16 year old radiator hose. Not a surprise it's time to be replaced. Thanks all, yeah I’ll take a closer look at the clamp under the cover in case it’s just obviously off but otherwise guess I’ll stop a while and have someone take a look because it would be a pain if that failed entirely on the highway somewhere, tho not sure how likely that is.
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Dec 30, 2020 03:58
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dobbymoodge posted:
I also had an oreillys alternator (I don't know if it was new or reman) poo poo out in this exact way. It would work on start and then last until it didn't; eventually, restarting the vehicle no longer fixed it. It took me way too long to figure out my charging problem was the alternator, in part because it tested "good" on O'Reilly's machine; I took it into a generator shop in desperation after a couple weeks of chasing my tail in the wiring and they were able to detect that it was intermittently functional which got O'Reilly's to warranty it and end the nightmare Never did find out firm details of the internal malfunction, but the alt shop's appraisal was "probably a brush" which would've been cheaper than a new alt to fix if I couldn't warranty it
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Dec 30, 2020 12:57
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It was a reman if it came from the Oh-Oh store.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:15
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I bought 12 LiFePo batteries to use for an accessory battery setup. What should I be looking at using to keep twelve 12lbs batteries in place so they don't become projectiles in a crash? I was thinking of using something non-conductive to strap them down indivually, something like nylon seatbelt strap. Do I need a sturdy enclosure around them or is that overkill?
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Dec 30, 2020 20:59
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i am not a car person but money's a bit tight and i'm not going to take my car to a mechanic because i can fix it myself. probably. i have a mazda3 and it seems to be rough idling, i have no problems driving it but when i'm idle it's a little sputtery. according to google this may be the mass airflow sensor. i can probably clean that myself, i've seen some videos and stuff. if it's NOT that, though, I have no idea what it could be. any other things i should be looking out for or check while i'm fixing this?
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Dec 30, 2020 21:17
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Thumbtacks posted:i am not a car person but money's a bit tight and i'm not going to take my car to a mechanic because i can fix it myself. probably. Are there any other symptoms? Does it burn oil, is it running at a good temperature or hot or cold, is it leaking anything, does it start well, have you recently made any changes, what's the mileage etc. Rough idling could be a lot of things. Fuel, air, ignition are all variables which means a ton of possibilities. I think you need a second symptom to do any good diagnostics. Or some diagnostic tools to start ruling things out.
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Dec 30, 2020 21:24
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StormDrain posted:Are there any other symptoms? Does it burn oil, is it running at a good temperature or hot or cold, is it leaking anything, does it start well, have you recently made any changes, what's the mileage etc. It doesn't seem to have too many other issues, as far as I can tell. No weird smells, mileage is fine and gas use seems fine. No problems starting, no leaks. I haven't made any changes because I wouldn't know what changes to make. I THINK I might have one of those diagnostic tool things that you can plug into the car, my mom got me one last year but I've never used it. Maybe now is the time, I'll see if I can find it.
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Dec 30, 2020 21:27
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Oh good. It's not going to just spit out an answer of course, so look at the raw data and see if there are any inconsistencies. I don't know what you'll have access to, stuff like temperature, throttle position, fuel pressure may all help. Also give it a good visual and audible inspection. Perhaps there's a crack in the intake behind the MAF that's letting in extra air, or a cracking spark plug wire. Also be prepared that you won't figure it out and buying a new MAF doesn't fix it.
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Dec 30, 2020 21:34
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taqueso posted:I bought 12 LiFePo batteries to use for an accessory battery setup. What should I be looking at using to keep twelve 12lbs batteries in place so they don't become projectiles in a crash? I was thinking of using something non-conductive to strap them down indivually, something like nylon seatbelt strap. Do I need a sturdy enclosure around them or is that overkill? Remember that a car can go through hundreds of Gs deceleration in an accident, which... Is a lot. I seem to recall most OEM battery brackets are made from stamped metal with rolled edges and insulation added where needed. That's the way I'd go if possible, since nylon strapping, while strong, will stretch and flex and may result in terminals getting ripped out or shorting against each other depending on which direction the battery pack is accelerated by the wreck. Remember to take side, angled frontal, low overlap frontal resulting in a spin, and full frontal into account. And always use more insulation and padding than you think will be necessary, for example heavy wall heatshrink might "feel" like a good answer but it'll cut like butter when there's suddenly a 150g impact and just one of your 12lb packs abruptly applies 1800lb of force on a few narrow sheet metal edges.
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Dec 30, 2020 22:52
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Can an engine survive a internal coolant leak without causing it issues? My 08 Ford Edge has apparently leaked coolant into the engine from the water pump, no blown head gasket. If I get it fixed, would I have to worry about like my engine rusting or other things going bad? Or would it be better to replace the motor? It's only been going on for about 1 day and it's already in a shop. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Dec 30, 2020 |
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Dec 30, 2020 23:04
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Where is it leaking to? If the coolant is leaking from one part of the water jacket to another, that's not inherently bad, but it means you've got damage in the engine block and it could get worse or let go entirely at any moment. If the coolant is leaking into any other part of the engine, like the oil pan or the cylinders, it's hosed. e: oh wait do you mean it's a one-time thing, like there's no damage to the engine but the water pump gasket blew out or something? In that case it should be fine as long as you flush it out real good
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Dec 30, 2020 23:18
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Javid posted:I also had an oreillys alternator (I don't know if it was new or reman) poo poo out in this exact way. It would work on start and then last until it didn't; eventually, restarting the vehicle no longer fixed it. It took me way too long to figure out my charging problem was the alternator, in part because it tested "good" on O'Reilly's machine; I took it into a generator shop in desperation after a couple weeks of chasing my tail in the wiring and they were able to detect that it was intermittently functional which got O'Reilly's to warranty it and end the nightmare This is great info. I'll get competent folks to verify the failure and post a trip report when I put a fresh alternator in and something unrelated fails immediately.
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Dec 31, 2020 00:25
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Follow-up to the land cruiser engine fire saga for those who care. MIL's car insurance initially claimed they would not pay out as there is an exemption for fires directly caused by mechanical failure, i.e. not related to a crash. After a little back and forth they offered just under $12k for the LC. I think she will likely take it as she was expecting to have to fight to get any money (though probably still a good bit less than it's worth). If their buy back price is low enough, I might offer to buy it back as a project. But I still haven't seen photos so I'm hesitant to do that not having any idea what I'm getting into. And I assume that would also leave the truck with a salvage/repair title.
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Dec 31, 2020 00:30
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My friend asked me a weird question. For the winter because we are in NY it is cold and for my bike I either take the battery out or use a tender. She lives in an apartment and has a motorcycle, she has her motorcycle in a garage, but is not allowed to use a battery tender in the garage. She asked me if there is a battery tender that exists that is itself a battery. My gut tells me no this is stupid, because in a cold temp what would tend the tender's battery? but I thought I would ask. I think she is confusing a battery jump unit with tending, I don't think jump packs do both. Also outside of her removing the battery from her bike and taking it back to her apartment every time she's done riding what can she do to keep the battery at a reasonable charge? I assume only running the engine MasterOSkillio fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 02:12
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Just disconnecting one lead from it is a good start. I do that on several of my trucks if I don't expect to drive them within a few days because their batteries are trash but I don't feel like buying new ones yet. A solar panel intended for battery tending may get around their rules, but only if sun can get to the bike obviously.
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Dec 31, 2020 02:21
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kastein posted:Just disconnecting one lead from it is a good start. I do that on several of my trucks if I don't expect to drive them within a few days because their batteries are trash but I don't feel like buying new ones yet. Thanks! That should def be an options I'll pass it on, and yeah I thought of the solar thing too, but there's no light in the garage to power it.
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Dec 31, 2020 02:27
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No there is no such thing as a self-tending battery. Cold weather does reduce battery performance (chemical reactions proceed more slowly at low temperatures) but it doesn't kill batteries instantly. I'd say if she's riding the bike more than once a week, just leave the battery in the bike. If she's only going down the block to the corner store, tell her to add 15 minutes at high RPM (do a couple exits on the highway) to keep the thing charged. It'll be fine. If she's riding once a week or less, just bring the battery inside and put it on a tender. It probably doesn't take that long to pull it out. Note that merely keeping the battery warm isn't enough if she isn't going to be topping it up (riding, charging) for months. The solar tender is also a good choice if her parking space supports it. A portable boost pack would work but I wouldn't use it as the only solution, because you're just letting your battery die in the cold and then hoping it comes back enough to get you where you're going. Best solution is to yell at the landlord until they let you plug in a tender. I'm sure that NYC has the same law that CA does where a landlord must let you install (at your own cost) an electric car charging station. Maybe she can roll it up into that somehow.
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Dec 31, 2020 02:31
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Thumbtacks posted:It doesn't seem to have too many other issues, as far as I can tell. No weird smells, mileage is fine and gas use seems fine. No problems starting, no leaks. I haven't made any changes because I wouldn't know what changes to make. Dirty MAFs are really common on these cars.
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Dec 31, 2020 02:54
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I got a new bike and the wheels have some very clear direction that I need to distance them from the exhaust. My hitch rack is too close as it stands. My plan is to use a class 2 riser (if I can find one) to get the rack up higher from the exhaust. Any other ideas?
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Dec 31, 2020 03:41
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Sagebrush posted:e: oh wait do you mean it's a one-time thing, like there's no damage to the engine but the water pump gasket blew out or something? In that case it should be fine as long as you flush it out real good I think some of those Fords can leak straight from the water pump to the crankcase. If it was caught right away, then I'd say nothing to worry about. Get the oil changed at the same time that they're doing the pump.
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Dec 31, 2020 03:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:I think some of those Fords can leak straight from the water pump to the crankcase. Yes, it's a ford that can leak straight into the crankcase. Problem started yesterday, took it to the shop today. They're saying that even with replacing the pump there could damage inside the engine like rust or pressure damage from steam, and other things. The biggest thing is that the water pump in my engine is right on the timing system and timing chain. Which they added an extra "upwards of" $400 more if there is anything else with with the timing. Most I drove it was like an hour max with it only once hitting red line on heat. My biggest problem and fear is that they said even fixing the issue, the engine could still be shot. How likely is that? Because they quoted me double my repair quote for a used engine swap. Quoted quadrupole on a new engine swap. Nothing over $9k max, but I bought this vehicle for 6800 used with only 80000 miles. SlayVus fucked around with this message at 05:51 on Dec 31, 2020 |
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Dec 31, 2020 05:47
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The water pump failure on the Ford V6 is a major known issue and is often a death sentence for the engine because it doesn’t get caught fast enough. I have no idea what your engine condition is, but driving it for an hour and hitting the red on the temp gauge is not a good thing. Most of the cost is the labor to change the drat pump, so if you plan on keeping the car, have them replace everything else they can while they’re in there. Timing chain, tensioner, guides, etc. the good thing though is generally post repair the engine is good for another 80 to 100k miles. Tons of info out there if you google Ford v6 water pump.
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Dec 31, 2020 09:23
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