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Domane has an endurance geo which might account for people calling it slow. But if you don’t race that’s probably not something to care about. Also,Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Sluggish in what way? My buddy just did a 27mph average speed race on his Domane with 32 or 38mm wheels
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Jul 9, 2021 22:44
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Krogort posted:South of France roads, so generally good surfaces and goes from moderately hilly (difficult to climb less than 400m over 50km) to actual mountains. My big idiot opinion: Get a fit, first, because whether an endurance geometry is right for you or not isn't a given. If you're only ever riding on pavement, even super lovely pavement, and you're not racing, I think 30 or 32mm tires are the fuckin' jam. At 35mm I start to notice them being slower, but before that there's this sweet spot where they feel fast as hell but also not jarring. You can even ride compacted gravel on slick 32s without any issue. If you're buying one bike, given how fast and aero even endurance bikes are nowadays, I think it makes sense to get one with clearance for 32 or 35s (hell, if it's one bike, maybe you want fenders in the winter?), just so you have the option. If the Domane fits you, it's a good bike that you can certainly go quick on. But it all comes down to whether it'll fit you right imo.
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Jul 10, 2021 00:10
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In the stores they said that I could fit either on a endurance or a race bike. Odly enough they put me on 54 BMC Teammachine, 54 BMC Roadmachine or 56 Trek Domane (Emonda 56 out of stock) depending on the shop. The guy from the BMC shop was a skiny racer and the folks at the trek concept store did not seem very knowledgeable about road bikes, they wouldn’t even let me try the Emonda 54. But they do give you discounts without even asking. Tried a Giant TCR and they put me on a ML, but it wasn’t available at the spec level I wanted, might be next month. Only shop left to check is a Specialized only store.
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Jul 10, 2021 08:15
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I recently picked up a commuter bike and the crankset is way too big for me. I'm looking to replace it with a 165 but I have no idea what fits this BB. The crankset it came with is the FSA Omega MegaExo 44t and the BB is a FSA MegaExo. Does anyone know of a single speed crankarm in 165 that would fit this? Or if I could use other brands besides FSA in this BB?
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Jul 10, 2021 16:33
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Partial Octopus posted:I recently picked up a commuter bike and the crankset is way too big for me. I'm looking to replace it with a 165 but I have no idea what fits this BB. The crankset it came with is the FSA Omega MegaExo 44t and the BB is a FSA MegaExo. Does anyone know of a single speed crankarm in 165 that would fit this? Or if I could use other brands besides FSA in this BB? Unfortunately, that Omega crankset uses the 19mm MegaExo spindle and not 24, so your best bet is FSA. A decent 24mm BB is 20-30, if it's worth opening up the options.
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Jul 10, 2021 16:48
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I didn't really know this was possible, but apparently I wore out my smallest cog over the course of 700 miles since I primarily ride in the small cog. Took it in to the bike shop because the chain would jump in the small cog and it was driving me nuts. They diagnosed the worn teeth on the one cog and were kind of like - you're not supposed to ride like that, you're supposed to have a cadence in a lower gear. Who knew.
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Jul 10, 2021 21:12
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frogbs posted:Anyone have any recommendations for shoes that are good for riding flats that aren't chunky/heavy/hot MTB style shoes? I'm not opposed to buying some spd compatible casual road shoes but just not installing clipless pedals for a while. I've been eyeing these since they're cheap, but they look like they might not breathe very well: https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=101601. I wanted to like them but they didn't really fit my wide-ish foot and got hot pretty quickly just standing testing them out. After a lot of trial and error I ended up with Shimano XC3 (in Wide) that do a decent job venting heat. Faced with a similar issue a fellow hot-running rider picked up SPD sandals. I'm not hardcore enough for those yet.
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Jul 10, 2021 21:21
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Krogort posted:In the stores they said that I could fit either on a endurance or a race bike. Do you personally describe yourself as a skinny racer? Skinny racer salespeople will sometimes forget not everyone is like them. A 56cm Domane has a shorter reach than a 54cm Teammachine, so it might make sense that both have been recommended without a thorough assessment of your flexibility, core strength, fitness, etc. You should get a decent bike fit from a reputable fitter with a PT background. Don’t just pick the first fitter you find at the closest local bike shop. For example, for someone 178cm/5’10” like me, I would lean toward recommending 56cm race bikes. If I had very long legs and a short torso, then a 54cm endurance bike would then become the best “race bike” for me. If I had average proportions, but below average core strength or hip flexibility, then I might opt for a 56cm endurance bike with a shorter stem. 177cm tall and 84cm inseam seems close enough to average to me. Neither a 54cm or 56cm are wrong and you could probably achieve the same fit on both. -17deg stem on a 56cm if needed…it’s what I do since I need a lot of reach. There are also “in between” bikes that are neither race or endurance geo. The Cervelo Caledonia and S3/R3 for example. TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 21:39
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Sab0921 posted:since I primarily ride in the small cog. When did you picture the other gears being used?
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Jul 10, 2021 22:04
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kimbo305 posted:When did you picture the other gears being used? Figured they were for climbing steep hills. I live in Houston and it's very flat here.
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Jul 10, 2021 22:15
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Sab0921 posted:I didn't really know this was possible, but apparently I wore out my smallest cog over the course of 700 miles since I primarily ride in the small cog. Smaller gears force the chain to articulate more and also force a more extreme chainline. This means added friction, which means you’re wasting power and also that friction is wearing both the cog and chain faster. And yes, basically never ride small-small over just shifting to a larger chainring and the middle of the cassette for a similar gear ratio. What kind of gearing are you running? TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 22:22 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 22:19
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TobinHatesYou posted:Smaller gears force the chain to articulate more and also force a more extreme chainline. This means added friction, which means you’re wasting power and also that friction is wearing both the cog and chain faster. I never ran small-small. I was nearly always in the big ring on the crank and smallest cog on the cassette. I was running the 11-34 on the cassette that the bike came with, I switched it to 11-28 today. For the crank, it's a 52/36 and I'm almost always in the big ring. Sab0921 fucked around with this message at 23:34 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 23:31
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What the gently caress slow rear end cadence/big rear end watts are you pushing to be spinning 52x11 as a matter of course e: holy poo poo 80rpm is 50kph, please think of your knees/turn pro immediately Vando fucked around with this message at 23:37 on Jul 10, 2021 |
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Jul 10, 2021 23:34
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Vando posted:What the gently caress slow rear end cadence/big rear end watts are you pushing to be spinning 52x11 as a matter of course I assure you it is the former not the latter. I am very slow. I dont have a cadence sensor, so I never know what cadence I'm riding, I just do what is comfortable. I just thought that's how you ride bikes? Sab0921 fucked around with this message at 00:08 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 00:06
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFhA56W8y1A look at this video, the lowest cadence he does is 70 RPM which is almost regarded as 'grinding' for just holding speed on a flat. I personally hover between 70 and 80 naturally while biking, which is generally regarded as a kinda low cadence; my aerobic fitness sucks but I do have strong legs, so it suits me better. However, going much lower than that and you'll be inefficient and you'll put tons of stress on your joints for no good reason. 80-90 rpm should be the sweet spot for most people. Samopsa fucked around with this message at 00:24 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 00:19
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Before I had a cadence sensor I figured it by counting 1-2-3-4 quickly over and over in my head for the pedalstrokes, that should get you in the 80-90 ballpark
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Jul 11, 2021 00:29
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Just about everything in nature seeks the path of least resistance. When it comes to pedaling a bicycle, you will notice that regardless of fitness level, your cadence will be higher at greater levels of exertion. At lower levels of exertion, it doesn’t really matter that much what you do. For me I can do whatever I want at 150W…50rpm or 100rpm, it’s so far below my threshold that it doesn’t matter. You’ll also be able to control your speed better / accelerate faster at higher average cadence. The only time I ever use my 11t cog is during sprints or descents where I’m hitting >38mph, and that’s with a roadiescum race bike. You’ve got gravelkings on box rims. I can’t imagine… TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 00:40 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 00:33
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TobinHatesYou posted:Just about everything in nature seeks the path of least resistance. When it comes to pedaling a bicycle, you will notice that regardless of fitness level, your cadence will be higher at greater levels of exertion.
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Jul 11, 2021 00:39
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Vando posted:I dont find this to be the case really: doing TT efforts or climbs I fall into a lower (70-80) cadence because that gives better results for longer steady state efforts, but for quick accelerations or all-out sprints I'll spin it up over 100. It’s been observed / studied by the likes of Dr. Ferrari and others for decades. Look at any TT specialist. Ganna TTs at 105rpm. I don’t want to say flat out that you’ve been doing it wrong, but you might in fact be leaving a lot of watts on the table during your TT efforts. https://www.53x12.com/high-rpm-further-observations TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 00:49 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 00:42
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I find my HR starts to eat poo poo (ok, rise maybe 5bpm over the equivalent lower rpm wattage) over 100rpm no matter what, though I guess that could be a "trained" thing because I'm used to high cadence being associated with above threshold power output?
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Jul 11, 2021 01:06
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TobinHatesYou posted:Just about everything in nature seeks the path of least resistance. When it comes to pedaling a bicycle, you will notice that regardless of fitness level, your cadence will be higher at greater levels of exertion. At lower levels of exertion, it doesn’t really matter that much what you do. For me I can do whatever I want at 150W…50rpm or 100rpm, it’s so far below my threshold that it doesn’t matter. The gravel kings are on my hybrid which has no problems - the bike I'm talking about with this issue is a Cervelo Caledonia - essentially a roadiescum bike as well. Sab0921 fucked around with this message at 01:10 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 01:08
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Vando posted:I find my HR starts to eat poo poo (ok, rise maybe 5bpm over the equivalent lower rpm wattage) over 100rpm no matter what, though I guess that could be a "trained" thing because I'm used to high cadence being associated with above threshold power output? Are your TT efforts that long that they aren’t above threshold? I’m used to TTs being in the 20-40min range. You also want your HR to eat poo poo. For something like a 10mi TT, my aim is to be right around LTHR after about 4min and then push it over in the final 3 minutes or so. Right at threshold, my cadence is probably still 95rpm or so. Like I said, it goes up in more or less linear fashion. 150W = 70rpm 180W = 75rpm 210W = 80rpm 240W = 85rpm 270W = 90rpm 300W = 95rpm 315W = 100rpm 330W = 105rpm TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 01:18 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 01:13
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On my 29" mtb s-beater I generally spin 50-120rpm. Its on flatpedals so I can't really blast much over 120rpm nor is it really needed. I can roll 60-100 all drat day. Low revs make it easier to clear obstacles, high revs help with sand. its solidly out of useable gear by low 30s mph and runs out of geometry by about mid 30s, again doesn't matter on a mtb.
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Jul 11, 2021 01:15
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TobinHatesYou posted:Are your TT efforts that long that they aren’t above threshold? I’m used to TTs being in the 20-40min range. Yeah they're 30mins or so, and by 'eat poo poo' I mean get pushed far enough that it spirals. Usually hold around 170 but if I go to 175 it creeps up and up so I try to avoid it til the last 5mins or so.
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Jul 11, 2021 01:38
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Vando posted:Yeah they're 30mins or so, and by 'eat poo poo' I mean get pushed far enough that it spirals. Usually hold around 170 but if I go to 175 it creeps up and up so I try to avoid it til the last 5mins or so. I don’t know what you mean by spiraling HR. Do you know your LTHR?
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Jul 11, 2021 01:47
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TobinHatesYou posted:I don’t know what you mean by spiraling HR. Do you know your LTHR? Yep: 170. By 'spiral' I mean once it gets to 175 it will keep going til its over 185 and I'm cracked. Usually takes about 5 minutes. e: you can see it here, 30 min effort, I go too hard on the turnaround and have to drop power to recover. Increasing cadence to 95-100 gives the same result but can't find any good examples as I haven't done it for a while. Will try to get an example next time out. 
Vando fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 01:50
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Optimal cadence for sprint power is 115-130rpm TTing is dumb anyway, who cares what's optimal.
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Jul 11, 2021 06:11
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TobinHatesYou posted:It’s been observed / studied by the likes of Dr. Ferrari and others for decades. Look at any TT specialist. Ganna TTs at 105rpm. I don’t want to say flat out that you’ve been doing it wrong, but you might in fact be leaving a lot of watts on the table during your TT efforts. Tbf you have some exceptions to this like Tony Martin and Gannas is particularly high compared to many of his peers which I guess is his track background where higher cadences have been a thing for a while.
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Jul 11, 2021 07:55
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Vando posted:Yep: 170. By 'spiral' I mean once it gets to 175 it will keep going til its over 185 and I'm cracked. Usually takes about 5 minutes. Why is the visual marker for turnaround so huge in a 30min effort?..weird. Also my interpretation of this graph is you don't know your own abilities. Unless the return was against a headwind, your HR should have risen aggressively in the first 2-4min and then basically leveled off, ending with a final ~3min MAP dump. Here's a 35min out-and-back of mine. Note the sliver that is the u-turn. 
TobinHatesYou fucked around with this message at 08:01 on Jul 11, 2021 |
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Jul 11, 2021 07:57
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Loving Africa Chaps posted:Tbf you have some exceptions to this like Tony Martin and Gannas is particularly high compared to many of his peers which I guess is his track background where higher cadences have been a thing for a while. Tony Martin's TT cadence is around 85rpm, so if he's the most extreme edge case, then Vando's preferred cadence is still 5-15rpm lower. Also the first point still applies. When Tony isn't going full gas in a TT, his self-selected cadence is even lower.
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Jul 11, 2021 08:09
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Longest steady efforts: My best 20 mins (260W) I averaged 91rpm My best 50 minutes (241) I averaged 80 (up AdZ) I don’t think I have a longer steady effort than that, but it looks like my highest 1hour was also around 80rpm. I do seem to settle at around 85 even at higher efforts, maybe that means I’m leaving a lot on the table too? E: this is all on zwift which might make a difference
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Jul 11, 2021 09:27
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TobinHatesYou posted:Why is the visual marker for turnaround so huge in a 30min effort?..weird. It's a real tight triangle junction with a concrete block chicane, and my bike handling skills are like a 2015 Sky rider. Like I say I'll do some more specifically to test this next time I'm out on the flat, bear in mind I'm not a racer and I'm certainly not Filippo Ganna so the high end optimisations may not apply.
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Jul 11, 2021 09:47
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Cycled about 8km to a vaccination centre, got my second shot, went for a nice 50k ride from there and am now relaxing. A good day! Also bought a chain tool and a new chain and am excited to learn and get closer to knowing how to do most maintenance on my bike myself ... and already thinking about buying a different cassette because I've got a 11-36 and I do not need the smallest gears in the flat-rear end area I live in.
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Jul 11, 2021 14:10
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I went on my first group ride today, a “casual” 40 mile gravel ride and goddamn. I was with the back of the pack and still averaged almost 3mph faster than my previous fastest over a long ride. I’m loving beat but it was awesome and I’m gonna have some good rear end pizza and beer.
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Jul 11, 2021 19:36
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I last did this ride in 2016. Yesterday I managed to beat that time by 44 minutes even though the route had 1000 ft of extra climbing. Not bad for an old man.
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Jul 11, 2021 22:21
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Hmm 8/10 psi I think maybe I should pump my tires. Followed by me losing both the valve caps to a gravel driveway.
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Jul 11, 2021 22:45
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Duck and Cover posted:Hmm 8/10 psi I think maybe I should pump my tires. Followed by me losing both the valve caps to a gravel driveway. Thank goodness valve caps are useless and you can just let the gravel eat them
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Jul 11, 2021 22:59
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SimonSays posted:Thank goodness valve caps are useless and you can just let the gravel eat them That may be but I still didn't want to immediately lose them.
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Jul 11, 2021 23:33
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The only good valve caps are the ones with the integrated valve core tool so you don’t have to root around to find the little black core tool
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Jul 11, 2021 23:41
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Now seems like a good time to ask: what is up with those stupid skinny not-schrader valves that have the little thing you turn manually to unseat them? Cause they seem to be utterly worthless at holding the air on the inside and I don't know why you would put them on a mountain bike, I've modified one wheel to take a sane valve but still need to do the other.
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Jul 11, 2021 23:46
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