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EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Rent a nice looking Mercedes cargo van or something for an hour fill with your tools say you're starting a mobile repair business and send em those pix.

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CommanderApaul
Aug 30, 2003

It's amazing their hands can support such awesome.
How much work is installing a new crankset? I have a 10yo Trek Madone with an Ultegra 6700, and I want to get shorter crankarms and possibly a power meter crank. Youtube videos make it look pretty easy, but you know how that goes.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

CommanderApaul posted:

How much work is installing a new crankset? I have a 10yo Trek Madone with an Ultegra 6700, and I want to get shorter crankarms and possibly a power meter crank. Youtube videos make it look pretty easy, but you know how that goes.

If you stick to Shimano, the hardest part will be swapping your chainrings over. That's assuming your bottom bracket is in good shape. Swapping that takes more specialized tools.

kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Mar 22, 2022

SoylentCola
Mar 21, 2001

Ultra Carp
I want to go tubeless on my road bike due to one too many pinch punctures. I currently have Mavic Aksium 19 Alloy wheels and will be getting some Goodyear Connector Ultimate (700x35) tires to replace the Continental Gatorskins (700x25) so I can hit some gravel. Everything should be tubeless compliant and work but my question is, how do I work out what tubeless valves I need?

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

SoylentCola posted:

I want to go tubeless on my road bike due to one too many pinch punctures. I currently have Mavic Aksium 19 Alloy wheels and will be getting some Goodyear Connector Ultimate (700x35) tires to replace the Continental Gatorskins (700x25) so I can hit some gravel. Everything should be tubeless compliant and work but my question is, how do I work out what tubeless valves I need?

Tubeless valves are pretty much interchangeable unless you're running cushcore or similar inserts.
So you need the ones in whatever sweet anodized color looks best.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

bicievino posted:

Tubeless valves are pretty much interchangeable unless you're running cushcore or similar inserts.
So you need the ones in whatever sweet anodized color looks best.

Agreed, only thing to even consider is if you’re switching to deep rims you need a longer valve to make it out.

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.
My chains* are getting close to the 0.5 wear level with the park tool.

Last time I degreased new chains you could get mineral spirits in California. No more.

What the best way (besides flammable liquids) to remove the grease so I can then use the Silica stuff on them. I’ve heard simple green somehow creates cracks.

*Yeah, 3 chains. It’s a recumbent.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit
ultrasonic cleaner, hot water, dish soap

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

VideoGameVet posted:

My chains* are getting close to the 0.5 wear level with the park tool.

Last time I degreased new chains you could get mineral spirits in California. No more.

What the best way (besides flammable liquids) to remove the grease so I can then use the Silica stuff on them. I’ve heard simple green somehow creates cracks.

*Yeah, 3 chains. It’s a recumbent.

Can you get kerosene?

funkymonks
Aug 31, 2004

Pillbug
If you don’t want to go the ultrasonic route (you should, it’s great) Pedros Pig Juice is a good gentle degreaser for chains.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

VideoGameVet posted:

My chains* are getting close to the 0.5 wear level with the park tool.

Last time I degreased new chains you could get mineral spirits in California. No more.

What the best way (besides flammable liquids) to remove the grease so I can then use the Silica stuff on them. I’ve heard simple green somehow creates cracks.

*Yeah, 3 chains. It’s a recumbent.

Zep Citrus and an old water bottle. Dilute it 8:1 water:degreaser. Shake chain in bottle. Replace cloudy solution with fresh solution. Repeat until it stays clearish.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

How bad is it really to mix tubeless sealants? I bought a new bike that came pre-filled with stans and I have a couple of other bikes on orange seal. I don't want to have to buy stans but I also don't want to unmount and thoroughly clean these tires when they dry out (or throw them away). :effort:


funkymonks posted:

Pedros Pig Juice

Delightful product name. I'm glad to have that in my search history

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Clark Nova posted:

How bad is it really to mix tubeless sealants? I bought a new bike that came pre-filled with stans and I have a couple of other bikes on orange seal. I don't want to have to buy stans but I also don't want to unmount and thoroughly clean these tires when they dry out (or throw them away). :effort:
I have mixed stans and orange without problems. I imagine anything latex based should be more or less compatible.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Slightly off topic but very cool how latex solvent mixes can fix tire leaks:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DO-l1zaSJvk

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
Ok, so bike shop ordered me a new wheel for my old steel road bike because the axle threading for the initial wheel was stripped and they said it would be cheaper to get a new one due to the axle size being smaller and no longer standard. This is my grocery store bike so I'm not looking for anything fancy.

I get the new wheel back home and go to put it on and the front dropouts are too small for the new axle. One is about 10mm and the other is 9mm wide, both of which are too small. The different sizes make me guess that they're both a bit bent and I found a video on how to bend them since it's steel and flexible. How good of an idea is it for me to attempt this on my own or should I take it to the bike shop? Rear dropouts have plenty of space for the thicker axle.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Mauser posted:

Ok, so bike shop ordered me a new wheel for my old steel road bike because the axle threading for the initial wheel was stripped and they said it would be cheaper to get a new one due to the axle size being smaller and no longer standard. This is my grocery store bike so I'm not looking for anything fancy.

I get the new wheel back home and go to put it on and the front dropouts are too small for the new axle. One is about 10mm and the other is 9mm wide, both of which are too small. The different sizes make me guess that they're both a bit bent and I found a video on how to bend them since it's steel and flexible. How good of an idea is it for me to attempt this on my own or should I take it to the bike shop? Rear dropouts have plenty of space for the thicker axle.

Go slowly and you'll probably be fine. As you say, steel is flexible.

Slowly and gently though!

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.

Slavvy posted:

Can you get kerosene?

I’m going to soak the chains in this in a jar in a garage.

I’m looking for a non-flammable solution. Citrus?

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.

TobinHatesYou posted:

Zep Citrus and an old water bottle. Dilute it 8:1 water:degreaser. Shake chain in bottle. Replace cloudy solution with fresh solution. Repeat until it stays clearish.

Thank you!

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!

SimonSays posted:

Go slowly and you'll probably be fine. As you say, steel is flexible.

Slowly and gently though!

just took the largest wrench I had in the basement and leveraged them both out from the inside a little at a time until they were just over 10mm at the top and the axle slides right in now. Took longer to figure out what tool I wanted to use than to actually do it and required significantly less force than I was expecting.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Mauser posted:

just took the largest wrench I had in the basement and leveraged them both out from the inside a little at a time until they were just over 10mm at the top and the axle slides right in now. Took longer to figure out what tool I wanted to use than to actually do it and required significantly less force than I was expecting.

This is how the pros do it, yes.

zerofunk
Apr 24, 2004
Probably just screwed up. I was stripping down the bike to put on a new group set. Everything was fine and I got to the bottom bracket which I haven’t ever messed with before, but I do have a tool for. Since it was in front of me, I removed the drive side first. No problem. Then the non-drive side was a lot more stubborn to start and once it did start moving there was a lot more resistance than the other side. I even thought it seemed like it could be cross threaded.

Once it was too late, I took a look at the park tool site and it says to remove the non-drive side first. Doesn’t say why, but looking elsewhere it seems like you need to install them in a certain order to prevent cross threading. Is that true for removal as well? This is just Shimano threaded cups.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

zerofunk posted:

This is just Shimano threaded cups.

Like, Hollowtech external cups? The two sides are bridged by a detachable plastic grit cover. It’s not something that can affect how the cup is threaded or how it comes out.

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

If it is a cartridge bottom bracket I can suggest trying one thing:
Remove any screw from underneath the bb that holds the cable guide on.

zerofunk
Apr 24, 2004

kimbo305 posted:

Like, Hollowtech external cups? The two sides are bridged by a detachable plastic grit cover. It’s not something that can affect how the cup is threaded or how it comes out.

Yep. Ultimately it seems like something is wrong because the non drive side cup did not unthread smoothly and has what looks like little metal filings all over the threads. I was just wondering if I did it by doing the sides in the wrong order. Or whoever installed it years ago screwed it up.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

You can't cross thread something by unscrewing it.
My money is in Copperhound's guess.

Or if it was just the plastic sleeve inside, whoever installed it messed up.
Have a shop chase the threads before reinstalling

zerofunk
Apr 24, 2004

bicievino posted:

You can't cross thread something by unscrewing it.
My money is in Copperhound's guess.

Or if it was just the plastic sleeve inside, whoever installed it messed up.
Have a shop chase the threads before reinstalling

That thought came to me this morning after sleeping on it. So it sounds like it was a prior installation issue.

It wasn’t the plastic sleeve. It is that type, but it was the threads on the actual cup on the left side that seem to be trashed. I’ll definitely have the shop nearby take a look. Thanks for the help, everyone!

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass
After my old Wahoo element filled with water I decided to replace it with a Roam. Which I bought new from Ebay I connected it to my phone and set it up. The shut it down and left it to charge, next morning I went to pair it to my powermeters and nothing happend, I put it back on charge and tried to start it back up and now it goes into a boot loop, I googled for a solution and people are saying the power button can stick, so I have spent 30 mins poking and prodding it and left it to discharge overnight. And its still stuck, I contacted the seller and he says he will send a label as the address registered on Ebay is his sisters. Does this sound legit?
Link to youtube video showing boot loop. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wLDUGFhEB0

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

mikemelbrooks posted:

I contacted the seller and he says he will send a label as the address registered on Ebay is his sisters. Does this sound legit?

Send a return shipping label in the mail? As opposed to through the ebay system for you to print out?

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

kimbo305 posted:

Send a return shipping label in the mail? As opposed to through the ebay system for you to print out?

Yes thats right, ebay have sent a label for me to print, but he wants to send me one for a different address.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



What’s going to stop him from saying you never shipped it and sorry no refund in that case? All you would be able to provide is a package was sent to a completely different person with a different tracking number to what eBay provided.

I’d only go through official eBay channels and too bad so sad, have your sister mail it from her house.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Yeah, if the seller doesn't accept the normal return, then ebay will definitely come down in your favor if you file a dispute. Will just take a couple weeks to get your money back that way.

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

kimbo305 posted:

Yeah, if the seller doesn't accept the normal return, then ebay will definitely come down in your favor if you file a dispute. Will just take a couple weeks to get your money back that way.

this

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Absolutely do not contact that guy outside of the default ebay resolution channels.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I got given a rusty 80's (I think) road bike and it's got a bunch of cool details I haven't seen before, because I know nothing, including these sweet little axle adjusters built into the frame:



I get what they do but what are they for?

Dog Case
Oct 7, 2003

Heeelp meee... prevent wildfires
Allows you to change the wheel base and head tube angle. Forwards=shorter wheelbase, steeper angle, faster handling, back=longer wheelbase, slacker angle, more laid back handling

VideoGameVet
May 14, 2005

It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion. It is by the juice of Java that pedaling acquires speed, the teeth acquire stains, stains become a warning. It is by caffeine alone I set my bike in motion.
They also make twisting a wheel in the dropouts less likely ... somewhat.

That's a nice friction derailleur.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Dog Case posted:

Allows you to change the wheel base and head tube angle. Forwards=shorter wheelbase, steeper angle, faster handling, back=longer wheelbase, slacker angle, more laid back handling

I suspected as much, thank you!

Looks like this one's a keeper then

wibble
May 20, 2001
Meep meep
I'm trying to replace all my inter and outer cables for the first time on my old carbon GT grade bike. The cable for my front derailer goes under and up to a hole on near the BB.
It seems the outercable is stuck as I cant pull it out of the hole. I thought it would just be held in by pressure but it seems to be fixed in somehow? Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/0LUP94J

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

wibble posted:

I'm trying to replace all my inter and outer cables for the first time on my old carbon GT grade bike. The cable for my front derailer goes under and up to a hole on near the BB.
It seems the outercable is stuck as I cant pull it out of the hole. I thought it would just be held in by pressure but it seems to be fixed in somehow? Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/0LUP94J

Sorry that photo is too out of focus to really see what's going on, for me. Maybe the BB itself is pinching the housing somehow? Not sure what you mean by inner + outer cables unless you mean the cable and the housing?

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kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

wibble posted:

I'm trying to replace all my inter and outer cables for the first time on my old carbon GT grade bike. The cable for my front derailer goes under and up to a hole on near the BB.
It seems the outercable is stuck as I cant pull it out of the hole. I thought it would just be held in by pressure but it seems to be fixed in somehow? Any ideas?

https://imgur.com/a/0LUP94J

Is the ferrule on the exit side possibly crimped onto the cable housing?


Does that part move or come out of the top if you pull up on it?

Alloy frame, but seems to be the same setup:
https://www.bikeforums.net/20356229-post11.html
No mention of it being hard to pull the cable out, though they do confirm the boot functions as a cable housing stop.

pg 32:
https://www.gtbicycles.com/media/uploads/blog/files/G15_2015_Techbook.pdf

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